Engine swap steps

[Motorhead350]

I might have to do this but, not for a while. I took the engine out of my 65 Chevy when I had it... all by myself, believe it or not. So, I have an idea. I was told it could be done in two hours, but that's if you know what you are doing.

I was thinking it would be best to pull the engine with tranny attached, like I did with the old school Chevy.

So, how is it done guys?

Anyone have pics of a past project?

Thanks.

BTW not doing it today, maybe not at all, just doing research.

[Joe Walsh]

Buy the Helms shop manuals and quit posting threads like this!

[Motorhead350]

Buy the Helms shop manuals and quit posting threads like this!

I think some people have better pics on here, but at the same time your post was helpful. :)

[Zack]

Dom, you are not qualified. End of story.

Stick to Music like I told you

[Big Black Beast]

LOL, I could even do an engine swap in a '65 Chevy.
The Marauder has lots more stuff to disconnect (and put back wrong).
If you attempt this, take lots of pictures first.

[Joe Walsh]

LOL, I could even do an engine swap in a '65 Chevy.
The Marauder has lots more stuff to disconnect (and put back wrong).
If you attempt this, take lots of pictures first.

A big +1!

And buy string tags to label everything with a detailed description of what it is and where it goes.

If you don't...weeks or months later you will be like this:...:dunno:
when you try to remember what goes where.

[fastblackmerc]

Steps:

Drain all fluids
Disconnect everything
Pull engine out
Put new engine in
Reconnect everything
Refill all fluids

[Motorhead350]

Steps:

Drain all fluids
Disconnect everything
Pull engine out
Put new engine in
Reconnect everything
Refill all fluids


Thank you for the chapters.

How about the info?

[J-MAN]

Zack gave you good advice! Stick to playing air guitar in your parents basement.

[Blackmobile]

If there is noting wrong with the Tranny, I'd suggest to just pull the engine by itself. It's modular, all you have to do is disconnect the harnesses and electrical connections, disconnect all accessory parts (example: AC compressor, power steering pump). It all can be done without pulling the front hood off, just disconnect the support shocks. For Starters......

[Motorhead350]

Stick to playing air guitar in your parents basement.

How could I do that if they don't have one?

[J-MAN]

Did they fill in the basement when you were sent away to camp?

[yjmud]

first go to carquest and buy a v8 sized can of skill then attemp

[EMAS]

Besides purchasing the FSM from Helm there are online subscription options. Mitchell 1 and Alldata have a DIY version that is reasonable priced. However since it is basically the same as used by professionals they assume a certain amount of knowledge.

Normally a Haynes or Chilton's model specific paper manual is the best for a DIY. I haven't checked but I doubt they get to far into the MM specific engine R&R.

There are also free repair guides available at Autozone.com. They do list some of the Marauder specific info like 4v wiring diagram but the engine R&R is more generic.

The transmission should stay in the car, you're only adding a lot of time and mess if you're pulling the engine to do the head(s).

Speaking of which that is where the real fun begins, R&R the engine is the easy part. The bulk of the wiring disconnects with a few plugs and can only go back together one way. Getting the cams, followers, chains and tensioners back together right and everything correctly torqued is the tricky and critical part. For that you must have the 4v 4.6l specific info from either the FSM or Mitchell/Alldata, you can't wing that from the 2v info like you can on the engine R&R.

Personally I'd recommend purchasing the subscription to Mitchell or Alldata and reviewing the process and then make the decision if you can do it and whether to R&R or do it in the car. Alldata has, and Mitchell should too, labor times that you can use to judge the relative time and difficulty. I'd R&R the head with the engine in the vehicle. A little tip is to remove the brake booster. Unbolt the MC from it and wire/zip tie it out of the way with the lines still connected and then remove the booster. That should give you much better access. Removing the hood also improves access.

[Egon Spengler]

Aaaaaaaand boom goes the dynamite...

[massacre]

If you're going to remove the engine/trans in one shot, removing the header panel made it wicked easy:
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4116/frontfull.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/frontfull.jpg/)

[Egon Spengler]

If you're going to remove the engine/trans in one shot, removing the header panel made it wicked easy:
http://img121.imageshack.us/img121/4116/frontfull.jpg (http://img121.imageshack.us/i/frontfull.jpg/)
Don't bother trying to help. He doesn't listen and this is WAY out of his scope.

[RF Overlord]

Normally a Haynes or Chilton's model specific paper manual is the best for a DIY.I respectfully disagree, at least in reference to Haynes.

I've used Haynes manuals for repair on my old T-bird SuperCoupe, my sister's Taurus, and my niece's old LeBaron and I was not happy. Haynes seems to leave steps out, put unnecessary steps in, or be just plain wrong way too many times. Plus the pictures appear to be Xerox copies of bad faxes or something...they're all but useless.

When I worked for a local gas station WAY too many years ago, Chilton's was the hot ticket, but I haven't seen one in years to know if they still are.

[Joe Walsh]

I respectfully disagree, at least in reference to Haynes.

I've used Haynes manuals for repair on my old T-bird SuperCoupe, my sister's Taurus, and my niece's old LeBaron and I was not happy. Haynes seems to leave steps out, put unnecessary steps in, or be just plain wrong way too many times. Plus the pictures appear to be Xerox copies of bad faxes or something...they're all but useless.

+1

I made the mistake of buying Haynes manuals when I was younger and wanted to take the 'cheap route'.
They had plenty of errors, missing info and crappy pictures.
I think of them as the Cliff Notes of auto repair manuals.
If you are going to keep a vehicle for some tima and do your own repairs....cough up the $$$ and buy the complete Helms shop manuals.

[martyo]

Dom:

Take the K member down and take the motor out from the bottom.

It will go a lot smoother that way.

Alternatively, save your pennies, trailer the car to my shop or Zack's house and let some one else do what you should not be doing.

I will promise to stay out of the recording studio if you promise to stay out of the garage/shop.

In any event, god luck.

[Zack]

Maybe Ill sell him my motor so I can finally do that LS7 swap ive been pondering.

[Joe Walsh]

Maybe Ill sell him my motor so I can finally do that LS7 swap ive been pondering.

:eek:


Call this guy first and buy one of these!
http://www.jonkaaseracingengines.com/component/content/article/217-jon-kaase-custom-built-boss-nine-and-p-51-engines.html

(It's what I really want to put under the hood of my Marauder....The black valve covered EFI BOSS 557 looks so right!)

[yjmud]

I like both ideas

[FordNut]

Lift the body off the frame, then it's easy to get access to the engine.

[Joe Walsh]

Lift the body off the frame, then it's easy to get access to the engine.

LOL...Lift the body off the frame?...Dom doesn't even own a harmonic balancer puller.

[martyo]

Dom doesn't even own a harmonic balancer puller.

You can use that to pull the body off the frame?

:confused:

[Egon Spengler]

Dom, this will solve all your problems...
http://cnreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2008/07/for_sale_sign.jpg

[Joe Walsh]

You can use that to pull the body off the frame?

:confused:

Yep!
But you have to own the 'body-on-frame' size to span the width of the Marauder, then you have to tap big bolt holes in the roof.....:P

[yjmud]

as much fun it is picking on dom i think i am done

[Joe Walsh]

as much fun it is picking on dom i think i am done

10-4

I'll just wait to see what disaster happens when he attempts the engine removal.

[massacre]

Take the K member down and take the motor out from the bottom.

^^^ LOL I keep forgetting you guys have K-members....:burnout:

[Mike]

Dom.....good luck with the project whether you do the work or someone else is helping you :D Just get that beast back on the road :burnout:

[Motorhead350]

Dom:
I will promise to stay out of the recording studio if you promise to stay out of the garage/shop.

In any event, god luck.

Martyo, thanks for the kind words. I don't have a problem with people in the studio as long as they keep their hands to themselves and keep their mouths shut (so production isn't delayed) and I would love to go down to your shop. The problem is distance though. Thanks for the offer, maybe I will stop down there.


Maybe Ill sell him my motor so I can finally do that LS7 swap ive been pondering.

What do you have?

As for most of you I don't understand these responses. Soon as I have a major problem I'm being insulted and told to ditch the car. Some ever say I don't even change my own oil. I do as much as I can and never more than I know. That was the whole point of asking on here as to what to do and how to do it.

It's a real shame to get responses like that, it really is. The car didn't blow up from lack of proper treatment. It just happened. Many of you have had this happen too, some without forced induction at all. Do you give these people a hard time? Nope. Not at all. Do I get it? Yup! I have no idea why. None of you are around my area to see what do and don't do. So you think this was because I drove the parts off of it and never did any work? Think again dip-s**ts.

Also this was about 50K miles of being blown with hard miles. How many of you have had blowers on your Marauder for 50K miles? There are a few, but not many. So wear is extra hard on my car on top of my heavy foot.

You all need to think things through and have a little respect when someone asks for help. :shake:

[Zack]

Dominick, the car went south because you failed to maintain a good running condition.

This is not an insult. Accept the truth.

[Motorhead350]

ehhhhhh yes and no.

I do blame myself though.

[RacerX]

Ouch, worse than pickle dent!

[J-MAN]

Good luck on your project! Make sure to take plenty of pics, who knows maybe it will turn into a sticky so that all can learn from your experience.

[Big Black Beast]

A big +1!

And buy string tags to label everything with a detailed description of what it is and where it goes.

If you don't...weeks or months later you will be like this:...:dunno:
when you try to remember what goes where.

I also take sandwich bags and put groups of bolts in them and label them and/ or tape the bag to the part.
IE, alternator, power steering bracket, water pump, etc.

[Motorhead350]

Ouch, worse than pickle dent!

:lol:


Good luck on your project! Make sure to take plenty of pics, who knows maybe it will turn into a sticky so that all can learn from your experience.

Be careful what you wish for. :burnout: