Real Oil Pressure???

[Marauderjack]

I got my gauges from Jegs today and hooked up the Oil Pressure and Volt meters as I don't want to swap faces etc.!!:(

When I cranked the engine the OP went to 75 psi and back to about 50 idling but the oil was warm from earlier today. I drove it about 15 miles to warm it up and got the following readings:

600 RPM in gear= 12-15 psi
1000 RPM= 25 psi
1500 RPM= 40 psi
2000 RPM= 50 psi
2500 RPM= 65 psi
3000 RPM= 75 psi
4000 & up RPM= 85+ psi (bypass open??)

I was surprised at the wide variation but who knows how accurate the gauge really is?? Has to be better than the OEM "switch"!!! :D

I like the AM gauge faces and lights:) !!

Marauderjack:cool:

[carfixer]

Readings are very similar to mine. I would say you are doing just fine.

[67435animal]

Jack, you're fine. Just like mine with 5W20 Motorcraft oil.

Bob

[RF Overlord]

jack:

With 5W-20, those readings would be about right...I get a little higher numbers, but I'm using 5W-30...

Yes, this motor DOES have a very wide variation in pressure, but I believe the real AutoMeter gauge is probably as accurate as anything else, other than a laboratory instrument.

[gonzo50]

Originally posted by Marauderjack
I got my gauges from Jegs today and hooked up the Oil Pressure and Volt meters as I don't want to swap faces etc.!!:(
Marauderjack:cool:
Are these the same gages everyone is getting ?
Can the install be done by someone with little mechanical skills ?
Would like to see them, part #no. please. Thanks. :D

[RF Overlord]

gonzo:

Oil Pressure P/N: 4327
Voltmeter: 4391

The voltmeter is a no-brainer...the oil pressure takes a little more skill, but not much...

If you can cut wires, crimp terminals on, and solder, then you're 90% there...the oil pressure sender does require an open-end wrench (I forget the size) to R&R, but it's easy to access and the new unit screws right in...(just remember to teflon-tape the threads)

Any one of us who have done it would be glad to help you...

Here's (http://www.autometer.com/hp/2003_catalog/racing/59.html) a link to the appropriate page in AutoMeter's catalogue...

[Marauderjack]

I wonder how it would read with real motor oil??:confused:

What about 10W30 or even 20W50??

I know that Ford is trying to get the best gas mileage for government reasons but at our expense?? 5W20....Bah...Humbug!!:mad:

I always thought that "High Performance" engines requires the "Maximum Protection" of 20W50 "Racing Oil"....Go figure!!:( This 5W20 is like water at room temperature...What about at 225*???

Anybody other than the "Supercharger Boys" tried higher viscosity oil??:rolleyes:

Marauderjack:D

[carfixer]

Our motors are too tight to run heavy oil. Rod and main bearing clearances are only .001 to .002" compared to older technology engines which ran 3 to 5 times that. Thick engine oil will take to long to get to the top end and over time will accelerate wear. With the oil pressure readings we are getting, I think the 5-20 or 5-30 is exactly what we should be using, IMO, of course.

[TAF]

And...the door is WIDE open for RF...here you go RF....

[rumble]

OMG, not oil again!

[Marauderjack]

carfixer....

I figured as much since even after the oil warms up it still runs at 2000 RPM's about where the OEM until is stuck from the factory!!:)

When I goose it to about 4000 RPM's it runs up to between 75 & 100 psi even hot!!:D

I really wish there was a way to prevent the "dry start" when the oil filter is replaced?? :( It just bothers me to hear a brand new engine knocking like that even if it is only a second or two!!:confused:

My CV had over 200K miles and knocked like that every change and I never had a problem but I still don't like it!!:mad2:

Marauderjack...with real OP!!:D

[LincMercLover]

I still put oil in my filter when I change the oil. Granted, it's a little messy, but you just have to clean up afterwards...

As far as soldering and all that, I used my stock harness for the install and used these insta-splice things that are kinda hard to come buy cause everyone buys them up. They have two parts to them, one that splices into the wire (without really damaging it). After it's spliced, it creates an "outlet." This is where the other part comes in. The other part crimps onto your install wire and is like a plug to plug into the spice. Very clean and very simple to do. And, if you'd want to revert back to stock gauges, all you have to do is unplug the AM stuff, remove the splices, and maybe put a little tape around where the splice was if you wanted (puts like a paper thin cut into the wire on two sides). Plug in the old gauges to their stock connectors and you're back to the old POS's... but why would you do that? ;)

[RF Overlord]

Rick, the soldering I was referring to was for the crimp-on terminals that connect to the back of the new gauge and to the sender...I never trust the crimp by itself in any kind of high-vibration environment. I also use ring terminals, as opposed to spade lugs, as they won't drop off if the nut comes loose, possibly creating a short.