Valvoline max-life 5W30 synthetic

[kernie]

The one negative i have had with my '03 300B blue is blue smoke on startup, a common problem here.

About a month ago {about 2,500 miles ago} i changed the oil and went with max life, it claims to rejuvenate seals ect.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/higher-mileage-motor-oil/3

To my surprise it really seems to work! I've only seen smoke a few times with much less smoke when it did puff.

To all those who endure this problem i would suggest you give it a try.:beer:

[RF Overlord]

Couple questions...how many miles on your car and what brand & weight oil were you using before the switch?

[kernie]

Couple questions...how many miles on your car and what brand & weight oil were you using before the switch?
About 83k miles {133k kilos} and the previous owner {i've only had the car 2 or 3 months} was using lucas 10W30 with lucas oil treatment. I was worried that the thinner oil would add to the problem and didn't really expect improved results, but it is for sure much better now.

Anyone think using a high mileage oil on a ongoing basis is harmfull?

:beer:

[RF Overlord]

I was worried that the thinner oil would add to the problem and didn't really expect improved results, but it is for sure much better now.It's only thinner at start-up, which is exactly where you want it to be thinner. At operating temp it's the same viscosity.


Anyone think using a high mileage oil on a ongoing basis is harmfull?Absolutely not. Knock yourself out. Valvoline MaxLife is highly regarded on BITOG.

You aren't still using the Lucas oil treatment crap are you?

[CBT]

It's only thinner at start-up, which is exactly where you want it to be thinner. At operating temp it's the same viscosity.

Absolutely not. Knock yourself out.

You aren't still using the Lucas oil treatment crap are you?

What is your take on oil treatments like Lucas or Marvels Mystery Oil? Good for flushing the system or just snake oil?

[RF Overlord]

99% of them are useless at best and harmful at worst.

The only oil treatments that actually perform as claimed without negative side effects (depending on the condition you are trying to correct) are AutoRx, MMO, and AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush.

For petrol additives, Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, and Red Line SI-1 are the only ones. Well, SeaFoam is good, too, if used properly.

[CBT]

99% of them are useless at best and harmful at worst.

The only oil treatments that actually perform as claimed without negative side effects (depending on the condition you are trying to correct) are AutoRx, MMO, and AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush.

For petrol additives, Chevron Techron, Gumout Regane, and Red Line SI-1 are the only ones. Well, SeaFoam is good, too, if used properly.

Interesting, thnx! I used to run AMSOIL products, got too expensive.

[MOTOWN]

ive used ams oil since my mm was new, 5w-30 doesnt smoke, or burn any oil great stuff ,but very exspensive i get mine at whole sale price.

[Rockettman]

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).

[MOTOWN]

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).

yes it does call for 5w-20, but i find that 5w-30 works better for me, my engine runs much smoother with the 5w-30, as opposed to the 5w-20, give it a try and see which one you like best!

i dont use anything other than ams oil 5w-30 its like liquid gold:banana2:

[fastblackmerc]

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).

Yes it does specify 5w20.

I've run 5w20, 5w30 and am currently running 0w30.

Some cars need to run what is specified. The MDS on my wife's 2007 Charger R/T won't operate correctly with anything but 5w20.

[kernie]

It's only thinner at start-up, which is exactly where you want it to be thinner. At operating temp it's the same viscosity.

Absolutely not. Knock yourself out. Valvoline MaxLife is highly regarded on BITOG.

You aren't still using the Lucas oil treatment crap are you?

No, that was the previous owner.

ive used ams oil since my mm was new, 5w-30 doesnt smoke, or burn any oil great stuff ,but very exspensive i get mine at whole sale price.

I've read all the start-up smoking threads here, it appears this issue has nothing to do with which oil you use or how hard you have ran the car. Some owners have had the issue since the car was nearly new, not sure why some have the issue and some don't. I use very little oil as well, just on the cold start, sometimes.

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).

I'm no expert on this but i believe 5W30 is a bit thicker at operating temps but similar at start-up, which is what matters. 10W is the no-no i think.

:beer:

[RacerX]

No on the 10W! 5 or even 0. Smoke can usually be associated with valve stem seals or guide wear/improper factory install. When parked, it litterally pools up on top of the intake valves and gets sucked in on start up. Not a pool per se, just enough, I have pics...

[RF Overlord]

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).No. The exact wording is:


SAE 5W-20 engine oil is recommended.
Only use oils “Certified For Gasoline Engines” by the American Petroleum Institute (API). Use Motorcraft or an equivalent oil meeting
Ford specification WSS-M2C153–H. SAE 5W-20 oil provides optimum fuel economy and durability performance meeting all requirements for your vehicle’s engine.There's no reason you can't run 5W-20 conventional, as long as you choose an appropriate change interval. It's a happy coincidence that Motorcraft 5W-20 is a synthetic blend.

There's also no reason you can't run 5W-30 as it's not expressly prohibited by the warranty. I would hesitate to use a 10W-xx unless I were in a very hot climate, like Florida, Texas, Arizona, etc.

[TFB]

Well I'll probably get slammed but I'm running Mobil-1 0W-40... Figured a little more cushion on the bearing when hot wasn't going to hurt anything... Apparently viscosity isn't much difference from the 5W-20 that was in it prior, oil pressure is still at 90psi cold and hot it idles only about 3psi more than the 5W-20... Yes it has a real oil pressure gauge...

[fastblackmerc]

Well I'll probably get slammed but I'm running Mobil-1 0W-40... Figured a little more cushion on the bearing when hot wasn't going to hurt anything... Apparently viscosity isn't much difference from the 5W-20 that was in it prior, oil pressure is still at 90psi cold and hot it idles only about 3psi more than the 5W-20... Yes it has a real oil pressure gauge...

I'm running Mobile 1 0w30. Oil pressures are the same as 5w20 or 5w30.

[RF Overlord]

TFB, in your case M1 0W-40 is not a bad choice, but I think you need to make sure people know you have a blower. 0W-40 in an N/A car would be "sub-optimal".

In either case, it's WAY better than using 10W-40... :eek: :nono:

[boatmangc]

I switched to the Amsoil Dominator 10W-30 with the aluminator,
Prior to that I have been running their 0W-20 in my vehicles for years. In south Florida for 30+ years. Never had an oil related failure.

[1stMerc]

Just remember these engines are built with a closer tolerance than the engines of old. Thus you don't need as thick a viscousity.

[fastblackmerc]

TFB, in your case M1 0W-40 is not a bad choice, but I think you need to make sure people know you have a blower. 0W-40 in an N/A car would be "sub-optimal".

In either case, it's WAY better than using 10W-40... :eek: :nono:

Why would 0w40 be "sub-optimal" in a N/A car?

[SC Cheesehead]

Well I'll probably get slammed but I'm running Mobil-1 0W-40... Figured a little more cushion on the bearing when hot wasn't going to hurt anything... Apparently viscosity isn't much difference from the 5W-20 that was in it prior, oil pressure is still at 90psi cold and hot it idles only about 3psi more than the 5W-20... Yes it has a real oil pressure gauge...

Old wive's tale.

If it were true, we should all be running gear lube in our engines for a REAL cushion... ;)

[Rockettman]

I read on the Amsiol site - I can't find it now of course - that most cars will be totally happy on 0W50 because synthetic oil has that much range of protection. This again comes from their information.
I was told many years ago, that the different grades listed on the bottles are a "marketing thing".
When Castrol came out a long time ago with their 0W55, people just wouldn't buy it because they really didn't know what that grade was. So they stayed away.
I really don't know...but it does make sense.
- wish I could find it on the Amsoil site -:banghead:

[TFB]

Old wive's tale.

If it were true, we should all be running gear lube in our engines for a REAL cushion... ;)

Well if that's the case why is Ford recommending 5W-30 for the new 3.5 Ecoboost engines??? Under extreme heat or pressure oils do shear to a lighter grade... With my engine placing roughly 75Hp on each bearing journal and the rod bearings receiving that in a small surface area, chances I'm going to run a 5W-20 are zero and none...

While it may not make a difference in these engines, the M1 0W-40 also has a bit higher ZDDP content than any of the std flavors Mobil markets...

BTW yeah 75Hp on each rod totals 600Hp and that's about correct for any of our supercharged engines, making in the area of 425Hp at the wheels... It requires roughly 80Hp to spin the blower at higher RPMs and another 20% or so is absorbed by the transmission and driveline...

[SC Cheesehead]

Well if that's the case why is Ford recommending 5W-30 for the new 3.5 Ecoboost engines??? Under extreme heat or pressure oils do shear to a lighter grade... With my engine placing roughly 75Hp on each bearing journal and the rod bearings receiving that in a small surface area, chances I'm going to run a 5W-20 are zero and none...

While it may not make a difference in these engines, the M1 0W-40 also has a bit higher ZDDP content than any of the std flavors Mobil markets...

BTW yeah 75Hp on each rod totals 600Hp and that's about correct for any of our supercharged engines, making in the area of 425Hp at the wheels... It requires roughly 80Hp to spin the blower at higher RPMs and another 20% or so is absorbed by the transmission and driveline...

Not sure I understand your point. Is it because Ford is recommending another viscosity oil for a different engine, that means you should go to a heavier weight oil in your car? :confused:

Lotsa guys running S/C'd cars here; not sure that any that have had engine failure resulted from lubrication issues.

"Synth Oils do not rely as much on special Viscosity Index Improver additives and will experience little permanent viscosity loss."

"The higher the spread between the bottom number and the top number the more VI improvers are relied on for maintaining the viscosity. Better to keep the numbers closer."


http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/oilshear.htm)

[NHTHAWK]

After the factory synthetic mix for the first 3 changes, and at about 9K miles I switched to the Valvoline 5w 20 and have never seen the blue puff again. Mine's an 04 with 44K now owned since new. It's change at the 4K mark religiously.



The one negative i have had with my '03 300B blue is blue smoke on startup, a common problem here.

About a month ago {about 2,500 miles ago} i changed the oil and went with max life, it claims to rejuvenate seals ect.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/higher-mileage-motor-oil/3

To my surprise it really seems to work! I've only seen smoke a few times with much less smoke when it did puff.

To all those who endure this problem i would suggest you give it a try.:beer:

[kernie]

After the factory synthetic mix for the first 3 changes, and at about 9K miles I switched to the Valvoline 5w 20 and have never seen the blue puff again. Mine's an 04 with 44K now owned since new. It's change at the 4K mark religiously.
So you did have some puffing when it was near new?

Valvoline 5w 20 regular synthetic or regular conventional?

Interesting.

:beer:

[boatmangc]

I've always felt that heavier viscosity oil requires more space. That's why we needed it in our old BB motors because the tolerances were not so tight.
I figure in a tight tolerance motor heavy oil has to make space. If it doesn't fit it doesn't lube.

[Rockettman]

I'm really sorry...but...


If it doesn't fit it doesn't lube.

THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!

[SC Cheesehead]

Saw that one coming a mile away... :lol:

[NHTHAWK]

Sorry, yes I use only Synthetic 5w 20.

I did have the oil puffing on start that caused me concern while using the Ford oil and after switching maybe once or twice again but I haven't seen it since. I just assumed the engine was now fully broken in.

Off subject a bit, but does anyone cringe like me when first starting after the car has sat a while, or even over night? Mine revs right up towards 2k and rattles for a second or two. I hate that...is there anyway to turn off that initial high rpm boost on start up? Rev after the oil is flowing not before....ouch...




So you did have some puffing when it was near new?

Valvoline 5w 20 regular synthetic or regular conventional?

Interesting.

:beer:

[Rockettman]

^^^ invest in a K&N Oil Filter. They offer an anti-drain back on their filters. The oil will stay in the engine, so when you start it's already there.

[fastblackmerc]

^^^ invest in a K&N Oil Filter. They offer an anti-drain back on their filters. The oil will stay in the engine, so when you start it's already there.

The Motorcraft filter for our motors has the same feature & it's cheaper.

[RF Overlord]

K&N oil filters, while excellent, are hugely over-priced and not worth the money unless you leave them on for an extended drain interval. Changing one every 3-5k is a giant waste. Also, their bypass valve is in the dome end, opposite of what Ford specifies for the modular motors. Motorcraft filters have the bypass valve in the threaded end.

[RF Overlord]

Why would 0w40 be "sub-optimal" in a N/A car?M1 0W-40 has a 100°C viscosity of 13.5 cSt, compared to 5W-30 at 11.1 and 5W-20 at 9.0. It's just a tad thick for a stock street-driven car and would unnecessarily reduce fuel economy with no up-side. Its high HTHS of 3.8 is beneficial for a power-added motor, but would be of less value to an N/A motor. I'm not saying it would perforce be a "bad" choice, it just wouldn't be the best one.

[1stMerc]

Sorry, yes I use only Synthetic 5w 20.

I did have the oil puffing on start that caused me concern while using the Ford oil and after switching maybe once or twice again but I haven't seen it since. I just assumed the engine was now fully broken in.

Off subject a bit, but does anyone cringe like me when first starting after the car has sat a while, or even over night? Mine revs right up towards 2k and rattles for a second or two. I hate that...is there anyway to turn off that initial high rpm boost on start up? Rev after the oil is flowing not before....ouch...

Talk to Dennis, i hated having mine do that high rev start up and cringed as well, especially in winter. Dennis got rid of it in my tune.

[Chevyguy]

Doesn't the owner's manual call for: 5W20 synthetic (or blend)? (Mine does for my '04 - not that the '03 should be any different).

The original Modular oil spec was for 5W-30 Later on about 2000 or 2001 Ford switched to 5W-20 to shave a few points of the CAFE ranking. Remember Fords only concern is that the Engine makes it past the Warranty period, so if the 5W-20 shaves a bit of life off the Engine past 100K or when running it with a blower etc this if of no concern to them.

I run 5W-30 in All my modulars 4 2v so far and now the 04 Marauder

[Rockettman]

K&N oil filters, while excellent, are hugely over-priced and not worth the money unless you leave them on for an extended drain interval. Changing one every 3-5k is a giant waste. Also, their bypass valve is in the dome end, opposite of what Ford specifies for the modular motors. Motorcraft filters have the bypass valve in the threaded end.

I didn't know this about the Motorcraft filters. (I only suggested the K&N because it's the only one I knew that had that feature).

No more Fram's for me now. :beer:

[Mike M]

Another great oil filter is the Mobil 1 oil filter. It uses a synthetic media and is built extremely strong.

I use Mobil 1 0w-30.

Oh yeah...I also own a Mobil 1 shop.

[JimmyXR7]

The one negative i have had with my '03 300B blue is blue smoke on startup, a common problem here.

About a month ago {about 2,500 miles ago} i changed the oil and went with max life, it claims to rejuvenate seals ect.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/consumer-products/motor-oil/higher-mileage-motor-oil/3

To my surprise it really seems to work! I've only seen smoke a few times with much less smoke when it did puff.

To all those who endure this problem i would suggest you give it a try.:beer:

Good stuff
So I use only 1 quart of the Max-life and the other quarts are regular valvoline. Works great.
The reasoning is - when it does not work any more I can increase the Max-Life quart quantity per oil change.
My marauder now has 70,500 miles.
Jim

[RF Overlord]

Another great oil filter is the Mobil 1 oil filter. It uses a synthetic media and is built extremely strong. FYI, the Mobil 1 and the K&N filters are identical internally. The only difference is the 1" nut on the K&N. Both filters are made by Champion Laboratories, who also makes the factory-installed filters for Ford and is a second-source for AC Delco.