eaton swap. round 2

[ImpalaSlayer]

most know, Rex dropped his car off up here last Tuesday to get the impalaslayer treatment. anyone know what number were on? its gona have a +2 lower with a stock upper. he left me with a set of shorties too but im not sure ill have the time to get them on and fab mid pipes. we will see. shooting for close to 430 hp. anyway, onto the pics.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1822.jpg

before i ripped it apart, very clean
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1825.jpg

first night was tear down night, had it 90% tore down in 90 mins.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1837.jpg

ground down the knock sensor boss's and massaged the the heater tube for clearance the lower intake.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1839.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1840.jpg

pluged the hole on the bottom of the intake
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1841.jpg

IAT relocation. need a 9/16ths drill bit and a 3/8ths pipe tap. sensor is for a second gen lightning
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1842.jpg

[Zack]

NOICE You are the new Zack

[ImpalaSlayer]

swap this pulley for a ribbed unit
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1844.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1845.jpg

attach the lower pulley kit, red locktite, lock washers and torque the 3 bolts to 45 ftlbs. also pictured is the new accessory belt 99.5 inch long and Terrys brackets. use the smooth idler you removed from pass side bank on the alt relocation bracket
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1853.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1854.jpg

[n00bkiller944]

I like it! Keep the pics coming!

[ImpalaSlayer]

do not wire it like this!!! see page4




wire the bap as such, dont bother with that boost sensor ********

take the 2 red wires from the bap and soder them together with an extra piece of the same size wire about a foot long for now. as such
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1859.jpg

take the 2 long wires and coil almost all of it up. you wont use the with 2 little wires in it at all. you will need the one that looks like an rca wire as it goes to the controller, mount the controller where ever you please i like right above the suspension switch. ill get a pic tomorrow

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1857.jpg

then you take that extra wire you soldered on to the red ones and put it inline with the white wire on the inertia switch, of course you want to insulate the wires with either tape or heat shrink.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1862.jpg

the one remaining wire goes to ground, i used the mounting screw for the bap, its tucked behind suspension switch.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1863.jpg

[LANDY]

looking good Dave.

[ImpalaSlayer]

didnt quite finish this yet, started getting a headacheso i packed up for the night

Rex picked up the biggest heat exchanger frozen boost has to offer and it fits perfectly in there. has a drain and a fill too which makes it nice. i made these 2 little brackets outa some 1/8th flat stock. came out pretty good i think. it will have one more in the middle on the bottom to sturdy it up. i definitely have to get one for my car.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1865.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1864.jpg

ill post up the finished pics of this when i finish it.

[Zack]

Thats the same Heat exchanger I use on my Whipple 3.4 MM.

It works AMAZINGLY well.

[Marauderman]

At least your advertising the:

CAROLINA MARAUDERS

Who just happen to pull off the biggest fun ride of any MV---YAHOO!!

Thank you!

carry on--I am waiting to run this Blue!

[ImpalaSlayer]

NOICE You are the new Zack

im not cool like you


I like it! Keep the pics coming!

thanks, will do, along with dyno vid


looking good Dave.

thanks Landy

[ImpalaSlayer]

Thats the same Heat exchanger I use on my Whipple 3.4 MM.

It works AMAZINGLY well.

me knows this. my car gets insanely hot in the summer, def need to invest a few extra bucks for this unit


At least your advertising the:

CAROLINA MARAUDERS

Who just happen to pull off the biggest fun ride of any MV---YAHOO!!

Thank you!

carry on--I am waiting to run this Blue!

np lol

[musclemerc]

Very nice work Dave! Keep the pics comming.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Very nice work Dave! Keep the pics comming.

thanks, sending a pm to you now

[tjl006]

Can you elaborate on the BAP wiring? Isnt one red wire input and the other output? Looking good Dave. Really like the heat exchanger.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Can you elaborate on the BAP wiring? Isnt one red wire input and the other output? Looking good Dave. Really like the heat exchanger.

honestly i have no clue, this is how i was told to wire it when i did mine and its been working great for over a year. when its wired liek this it runs all the time and dosnt come on with boost. at least thats my understanding

[BODYMAN]

Great write up Dave! Can Zack or Rex give us that part# for the H.E. from Frozen Boost.

[ImpalaSlayer]

here ya go
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=34bbab25bd527dc6e96cec9 ac007e72c

[BODYMAN]

Thanks! :beer:

[sailsmen]

Impresive write up. I would def monitor coolant temps. I think you will have over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph.
The heat exchanger blocks the entire radiator.
The first generation Cobra's in the South had an over heat issue. Ford issued a TSB and the fix was several parts, the primary one being a different condensor that allowed more air to flow over the radiator.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Impresive write up. I would def monitor coolant temps. I think you will have over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph.
The heat exchanger blocks the entire radiator.
The first generation Cobra's in the South had an over heat issue. Ford issued a TSB and the fix was several parts, the primary one being a different condensor that allowed more air to flow over the radiator.

i really dont think it will be an issue,these coolers really dont get that hot, you can touch the coolant right after shut down in the IC loop.

[BODYMAN]

Good point If OH was a isssue with this then why does Zack use it? Just and Observation Maybe he will Chimein

[sailsmen]

It may not be an issue. Regardless it blocks a lot of air flow and it is air flow that removes the heat from the rad. The owner would be foolish not to monitor coolant temps after putting something that big in front of the rad.
The idiot guage moves at around 240*.

[LANDY]

honestly i have no clue, this is how i was told to wire it when i did mine and its been working great for over a year. when its wired liek this it runs all the time and dosnt come on with boost. at least thats my understanding
Dave i did mine slightly different and this is making me wonder.
i cut white wire, the one from fdpm to BAP then from BAP to pump on the other piece of white wire and connected the two wires from the hobbs switch together.:dunno:

[Seneca]

Looking good dave!!

[tjl006]

Dave i did mine slightly different and this is making me wonder.
i cut white wire, the one from fdpm to BAP then from BAP to pump on the other piece of white wire and connected the two wires from the hobbs switch together.:dunno:
When my car had the eaton on it this is how I had it set up( after I wired it wrong the first time)

[ImpalaSlayer]

Dave i did mine slightly different and this is making me wonder.
i cut white wire, the one from fdpm to BAP then from BAP to pump on the other piece of white wire and connected the two wires from the hobbs switch together.:dunno:

duno Landy, wiring isnt my strong point. all i know is it works and works great for these power levels.

[ctrlraven]

Nice work Dave, keep it up!

[Zack]

The car is not going to overheat.
If anyone with a clue knows what that plastic air damn under the car is for they would never suggest the car will overheat.
8 years later..........LOL

[BODYMAN]

The car is not going to overheat.
If anyone with a clue knows what that plastic air damn under the car is for they would never suggest the car will overheat.
8 years later..........LOL

YEP!! Sounds better coming from someone who is set up that way! take that dam of alot of diff cars and youll see OH problems and were talking not modded cars!!!!!!!!!

[BODYMAN]

here ya go
http://www.frozenboost.com/product_info.php?cPath=217&products_id=1002&osCsid=34bbab25bd527dc6e96cec9 ac007e72c

149.00 is a decent price to!

[SC Cheesehead]

Outstanding! Can't wait for the final product. http://images0.cpcache.com/image/18382890_100x100_pad.jpg



Impresive write up. I would def monitor coolant temps. I think you will have over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph.
The heat exchanger blocks the entire radiator.
The first generation Cobra's in the South had an over heat issue. Ford issued a TSB and the fix was several parts, the primary one being a different condensor that allowed more air to flow over the radiator.

Who drives under 30 mph? ;) -----> :D

[BODYMAN]

Outstanding! Can't wait for the final product. http://images0.cpcache.com/image/18382890_100x100_pad.jpg




Who drives under 30 mph? ;) -----> :D LOL 30 what is that!!!!!!!!

[SC Cheesehead]

149.00 is a decent price to!

Zack turned me on to these guys and I highly recommend them; excellent response time and very prompt follow up to questions.

[babbage]

Good job on the mounting brackets Dave - nice and clean looking.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Good job on the mounting brackets Dave - nice and clean looking.

thanks. hope to finish it up tonight

[SC Cheesehead]

thanks. hope to finish it up tonight


The whole blower installation?! :confused: -------> :eek:

[RF Overlord]

Does anyone think this FrozenBoost intercooler might be a worthwhile upgrade to a stock Trilogy kit? For $150 it seems like a no-brainer...

[SC Cheesehead]

Does anyone think this FrozenBoost intercooler might be a worthwhile upgrade to a stock Trilogy kit? For $150 it seems like a no-brainer...

I'm hardly an expert at this stage of the game, but IMO, anything you can do to lower IAT, the better; especially for the price.

The FrozenBoost unit comes highly recommended, and as Dave pointed out, it features a drain, which makes routine fluid changes easy and neat.

[Zack]

Does anyone think this FrozenBoost intercooler might be a worthwhile upgrade to a stock Trilogy kit? For $150 it seems like a no-brainer...

IIRC Lidio used them years ago, I think on his own car.
I know he had a huge one similar to the frozen boost unit.

[BODYMAN]

Does anyone think this FrozenBoost intercooler might be a worthwhile upgrade to a stock Trilogy kit? For $150 it seems like a no-brainer...

Yes positive upgrade! cooling,cooling,cooling.

I have used them in the past they are a very good source.

[Zack]

The whole blower installation?! :confused: -------> :eek:

Eaton swaps are not difficult.

[kariamack]

I just bought a afco heat exchanger , haven't installed it yet but its also a nice exchanger , nice and thick

[ImpalaSlayer]

I'd take area over thickness anyday

[Zack]

I'd take area over thickness anyday

Skipping the dirty jokes, I fully agree.

I never understood the concept of the thicker heat exchangers. It will keep passing the heat onto the back rows. With a huge piece like the one from FB, it cools once effectively.

[Zack]

Its a beautiful piece:
http://www.siliconeintakes.com/images/product/radiator_24x12x1_picture.jpg

[DOOM]

So who you gonna get to tune the car?

[SC Cheesehead]

So who you gonna get to tune the car?

Same guy that did Dave's.

[Sully008]

Nice work, ImpalaSlayer! I'll be adding the larger H/E to my 2011 mod list.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Performance evolution here in de. Great guy great tuner, won't go anywhere else

[sailsmen]

The car is not going to overheat.
If anyone with a clue knows what that plastic air damn under the car is for they would never suggest the car will overheat.
8 years later..........LOL

I know what the air dam is for and I stand by "Impresive write up. I would def monitor coolant temps. I think you will have over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph.
The heat exchanger blocks the entire radiator.
The first generation Cobra's in the South had an over heat issue. Ford issued a TSB and the fix was several parts, the primary one being a different condensor that allowed more air to flow over the radiator."


My 8-6-2010 post;
"http://reischeperformance.com/tstatinfo.html#anchor

"Most people think a larger radiator will improve the capacity of the cooling system but a big factor that is often overlooked is airflow. Increasing airflow will have a dramatic effect on the cooling ability of any radiator which is why most choose to do so when prepping a vehicle for race use. Some common ways to get more air through the radiator are:

•Increase the size of the lower air dam
•Box in the radiator to force air to flow through it and not around it
•Additional hood and fascia vents
•Additional or more powerful cooling fans
This is also why you never want to remove the lower air dam on a modern vehicle. Not to mention it will reduce the life of the radiator fan(s) and could even cause overheating."

[Zack]

sailsmen you dont know what you are talking about.
I say that in the nicest possible way.

[Zack]

The whole point of the air damn is to collect cool air and direct it upward. Obvious Logistics would tell you that the cool air bypasses the heat exchanger.
I dont get whats not making sense....you are the only one who has issues it seems.

If is 95* outside, I have a supercharger and intercooler with the air on, id expect coolant temps to be between 195-205

[sailsmen]

"over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph"

Under 30 mph the air dam does not generate sufficient flow over the radiator when its over 95*.
He may find out in August if he makes a trip South. Not all the first generation Cobras had over heating issues.

I have done data logging on a dyno and in traffic with various combinations affecting air flow.

If you lived in a very hot area you would understand.

[BODYMAN]

I will run this when I have the reason and can & will guarantee no OH issues due to this set up Come on Lidio,Zack & others have used for a while with no issues let it go. You say OH issues the most I would see is hotter outta of exchanger at most not Rad. and at that very little

[SC Cheesehead]

"over heating issues when its over 95* under 30mph"

Under 30 mph the air dam does not generate sufficient flow over the radiator when its over 95*.
He may find out in August if he makes a trip South. Not all the first generation Cobras had over heating issues.

I have done data logging on a dyno and in traffic with various combinations affecting air flow.

If you lived in a very hot area you would understand.

I'm from South Carolina, so lots of days 95+. The Type 100 HE is the one Zack recommended to me, and he didn't give any indication of overheating issues, nor has anyone else indicated they've had issues; but I will plan on scanning temps with my Aeroforce gauge when I get it installed.

[ctrlraven]

If it's that big of an issue install some extra fans.

[BODYMAN]

If it's that big of an issue install some extra fans.

That what I would say put a pusher fan on frt of set up.. But cant see it would be nesc..... Heat do like someone here is doing and its not Meth, But better.. I plan to use it also when I have a Eaton set up.

[burt ragio]

Dave nice write up. Keep the photos comming.

[ImpalaSlayer]

well thankfully i posted up these pics and Zack noticed i had the bap wiring completely wrong, i have no clue what i was thinking. good thing i never threw power to it, god know what woulda happened. this is how it should be done

the fused red wire should go to end of the half of the wire closest inertia switch . the other red wire should go to the other half of the white wire that used to go to the inertia switch. THEY SHOULD NOT BE WIRED TOGETHER!!!

the long wire that i had coiled up, the 2 ends on that need to be soldered together.


hard to see with the bap mounted but its pretty simple

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1866.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1867.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1868.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1869.jpg

this is where i mounted the controller in my car as well as rex's
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1870.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1871.jpg

[ImpalaSlayer]

you can go ahead and mount the IC to the blower at this point. copper rtv to seal it and use red locktite on the bolts, you do not want one of those to come out or it will probably be bye bye engine.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1873.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1874.jpg

after that you can mount the blower and bolt the fuel rails and injectors up
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1876.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1877.jpg

[ImpalaSlayer]

now begins the tedious part of the eaton swap, moving stuff from one side of the engine bay to the other.

i started with the easy part of the throttle body and plenum.

directly under where the plenum needs to sit is this little thing. i honestly have no clue what it does, it appears to be a little resistor or something im not sure but its gota GTFO!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1883.jpg

all you have to do is swap the valve cover bolt with the one behind it and un clip the plug from the top of it so you get more length (thats what she said). then just bolt it to the bolt again.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1885.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1886.jpg

then you can mock up the plenum and tweak the fuel line to clear the throttle linkage, you literally just bend it with your hand being careful not to kink it.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1884.jpg

[tjl006]

I knew there was somthing up with the BAP wiring. But I figured maby you and Zack found a better way to do it, stranger things have happened. Looking good man keep up the good work.

[ImpalaSlayer]

I knew there was somthing up with the BAP wiring. But I figured maby you and Zack found a better way to do it, stranger things have happened. Looking good man keep up the good work.

yeah not sure what i was thinking lol. oh well no harm no foul

[LANDY]

Don't forget to fix it in your car bud.:beer:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Don't forget to fix it in your car bud.:beer:

my car is correct, or else stuff would have been fried. i had them taped up and i thoguth they were all sodered together but they wernt

[Zack]

Don't forget to fix it in your car bud.:beer:

He didnt wire his car that way, he just had a brain fart on Rex's car.

[ImpalaSlayer]

He didnt wire his car that way, he just had a brain fart on Rex's car.

and i hate when i **** up but luckily you caught it, thanks again

[SmokdMercRauder]

now begins the tedious part of the eaton swap, moving stuff from one side of the engine bay to the other.

i started with the easy part of the throttle body and plenum.

directly under where the plenum needs to sit is this little thing. i honestly have no clue what it does, it appears to be a little resistor or something im not sure but its gota GTFO!

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1883.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1886.jpg


Looking good Dave....I've been neglecting MM.com. As its page 5 and the first time I've seen the thread..:shake: Yet another blue eatonized!! An btw. The resistor thing is a capacitor and and used to reduce radio noise..lol. Keep up the good work..I need to upgrade to that IC also....

[ImpalaSlayer]

Looking good Dave....I've been neglecting MM.com. As its page 5 and the first time I've seen the thread..:shake: Yet another blue eatonized!! An btw. The resistor thing is a capacitor and and used to reduce radio noise..lol. Keep up the good work..I need to upgrade to that IC also....
ahh gotcha. thanks Nuru

[SC Cheesehead]

He didnt wire his car that way, he just had a brain fart on Rex's car.


and i hate when i **** up but luckily you caught it, thanks again


A big thank you to Zack for the heads up catch.

BTW Dave, it ain't a ***k up if you catch it in time... ;)

[ctrlraven]

Looking good Dave....I've been neglecting MM.com. As its page 5 and the first time I've seen the thread..:shake: Yet another blue eatonized!! An btw. The resistor thing is a capacitor and and used to reduce radio noise..lol. Keep up the good work..I need to upgrade to that IC also....
Thanks for pointing that out! I've been getting some radio noise as of late, I'm going to check that part.

[Zack]

Thanks for pointing that out! I've been getting some radio noise as of late, I'm going to check that part.

Those never go bad....check the grounds, especially the ones you added.

[justbob]

and i hate when i **** up but luckily you caught it, thanks again
EVERYBODY ****'s things up Dave. Lookin good!

[ImpalaSlayer]

EVERYBODY ****'s things up Dave. Lookin good!

yes but im very anal about my work. its gotta be perfect or im not happy lol. thanks.

[SC Cheesehead]

yes but im very anal about my work. its gotta be perfect or im not happy lol. thanks.

^^^^^ hey, IMO, that's a GOOD thing! ^^^^^ :D

[ImpalaSlayer]

^^^^^ hey, IMO, that's a GOOD thing! ^^^^^ :D

its coming along Rex! bad news is the COT may not be finished in time BUT you WILL be going home on the 12th with a blown blue even if i gotta rob the parts from my car to do it.

[ImpalaSlayer]

here goes. the wiring is so damn tedious to cut open the factory bundles and pull out what you need then extend them and loom them up. it takes alot of time to say the least. that is of course if you want a factory looking finish. you could just string the wires out and hack it up but i wont do that. anyway heres the pics

cut open the bundle, with the tps and iac wires being careful not to cut any wires. label each wire then cut off the pig tails leaving enough wire to splice in an extension. extend the wires then loom them up.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1887.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1888.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1889.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1890.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1891.jpg

do the same thing with the maf wire but the outer 2 most wires now go to the IAT thats in the lower intake. just leave about 6 inches on the plug to tuck it he loom so it looks good but you wana extend the part that goes into the car not the plug.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1892.jpg

[ntd]

all most done looking good Dave

[ImpalaSlayer]

buy this batt tray
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1895.jpg

i think its for a sn stang but im not sure. you dont want a fox body tray, its too deep. this try is almost flat so it works perfect. you just have to cut the hump off the bottom and make it flatter lol. sorry no pic, just make it look like this ont he bottom and you will be good to go
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1893.jpg

i just use 2 bolts in the header panel and it makes it pretty solid once the weight of the battery is in it.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1897.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1898.jpg

you have to shave the battery as its a real tight fit at least with the 2 napa batterys ive used i had to shave the plastic that hols the strap in place.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1901.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1902.jpg

battery in place
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1905.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1904.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1906.jpg

[ImpalaSlayer]

all most done looking good Dave

getting there Nick! thanks! i hope to have it all done tomorrow except the fuel pump unless i get ambitious ill save that for sunday. then get it on the dyno monday

[BODYMAN]

Dave, Can you tell me how many inches from washer bottle to other end of battery is?
The reason I ask Iam going to relocate my Batt to the the trunk and want to get a aftermarket I/C resivor/ice box for that spot. It looks to be 6-7 in from the pic. Thanks!

[BODYMAN]

Dave, Can you tell me how many inches from washer bottle to other end of battery is?
The reason I ask Iam going to relocate my Batt to the the trunk and want to get a aftermarket I/C resivor/ice box for that spot. It looks to be 6-7 in from the pic. Thanks!

Dave can you get me the inches from washer resv to the end of battery! Thanks!

[ImpalaSlayer]

i can get it tomorrow, im done for the day

[ImpalaSlayer]

well ive been slacking with the pics but here are a few more

simple little bracket to hold the IC re
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1907.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1914.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1915.jpg

relocated power distribution box, all you have to do is make some spacers and drill 2 holes int he inner fender

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1911.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1912.jpg

water outlet for the SC
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1913.jpg

this is where i slacked, no more pics of the rest of the steps, heres the final setup minus the pcv, ill sort that out later
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1917.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1918.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1920.jpg

[DOOM]

Where's all the chrome??? :down:

[ImpalaSlayer]

Where's all the chrome??? :down:

chrome is so 2009

[DOOM]

chrome is so 2009

That's why everything I have is polished! :P

[ImpalaSlayer]

That's why everything I have is polished! :P

bout time you got your terms right, i hate when people call it chrome!

[babbage]

Looks great. Nice and neat. Will the owner care if you give it to him with some rear tread missing? :D Have to do "quality testing"

[Spectragod]

chrome is so 2009

Chrome won't get you home...... but it will get you laid. :D

[DOOM]

Chrome won't get you home...... but it will get you laid. :D

:agree: :D

[CBT]

Looks great, Dave. I'm sure Rex is going nutty in anticipation. :beer:

[burt ragio]

Dave the progress is looking good bet you can't wait to get her to the dyno.
Wanted to ask could the power distribution box be kept were it originally was & placed the IC reservor were you moved the power distribution box to ?

[SC Cheesehead]

Looks great. Nice and neat. Will the owner care if you give it to him with some rear tread missing? :D Have to do "quality testing"

Yeah, the owner's given him carte blanche...:D

[SC Cheesehead]

Looks great, Dave. I'm sure Rex is going nutty in anticipation. :beer:


What makes you think that, Casey? http://t2.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:Y-WKP5QIorHeYM:http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e110/overdrive45/shs_crazySmiley1.jpg (http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e110/overdrive45/shs_crazySmiley1.jpg)

[RacerX]

Hey Dave. Do you upgade the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box since the fuse at the KB BAP that's now inline is a higher rating? Got my bap installed today in prep btw, thanks for the pics.

[LANDY]

I didn't upgrade the fp fuse when I did my fuse system. No problems and plenty of fuel till this date.

[ImpalaSlayer]

Hey Dave. Do you upgade the fuel pump fuse in the fuse box since the fuse at the KB BAP that's now inline is a higher rating? Got my bap installed today in prep btw, thanks for the pics.

i didnt on either car but my tuner did say something about that. i duno never had any problems with them blowing :dunno:

[RacerX]

Well, the weakest point will be the 20amp in the engine compartment fuse box which is easy enough to replace. I have spares for everything in the glove box jic. Thanks again! Woohoo! IC pump arrived on my doorstep today too.;)

[burt ragio]

Should the fuse blow & stop fuel delivery could this cause a lean condition before the motor dies ? Would the check engine light come on & through a code ?

[justbob]

You'd just stall like any other car. WOT? You'd probably hear what sounds like logging chains rattling, followed by BOOM. No CEL, just boom.

[1 Bad Merc]

I went wide open when I first got the car back (after driving 250 miles from Detroit -car hot)and blew the fuse. Talked with Lidio and he indicated they normally replace the 20 amp with a 30 amp fuse but since I had the fuel pump/bap already done by someone else they did not check it.

Replaced the fuse with a 30 amp, took it easy for awhile to see what was going on and everything has been fine since.

My car did not throw any codes when it happened and just died suddenly and would not restart. I checked the fuse inline with the bap and then the fuse panel for the fuel pump as I could not hear the fuel pump turn on/run when I tried to restart the car.

I have had no problems since I replaced it and my car runs great.

[RacerX]

Ohhhhhh... lookey! I was right! :D Good to know it's verified!
YES! You could go run lean right after the pump shuts off @ wot causing cels to light up too. Boom, not necessarily. All air and no fuel won't go boom. I'm sure the engine braking scares ya though!

[burt ragio]

Looks like a 30 amp fuse is in order. My only concern would then be can the gauge wire handle the additional load & not fry before blowing the fuse.

[RacerX]

The wiring is fine. 30 amp will smoke before anything else.

[tbone]

Yes, I am resurrecting an oldie but goodie thread.

My supercharger, intercooler and lower intake is fully assembled from the factory. Is there a way to drill this for the IAT sensor and not get shavings in there, or should I just go ahead and disassemble it to be safe?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1842.jpg

[RacerX]

Disassemble the lower plenum from the supercharger. Not a prob. If you're gentle, you can reuse the coated, metal gasket in between them. I drilled, tapped, threaded, installed IAT sensor with the nut inside and some "Right Stuff" RTV.

[whitey]

Tbone: i cant say for sure, but when drilling, your bound to have some shavings go into the hole you drilled. Id rather be safe than sorry.

[1stMerc]

Plenty of grease on the drill bit will go along way to alleviate the shavings from going in, but you will still have some.

[lji372]

You could bolt to a wall and drill up so gravity is you friend and use grease on the drill bit. Just ask yourself one question.....

Are ya feelin lucky punk :lol:

Better to be safe than sorry bro:beer:

[SC Cheesehead]

Disassemble the lower plenum from the supercharger. Not a prob. If you're gentle, you can reuse the coated, metal gasket in between them. I drilled, tapped, threaded, installed IAT sensor with the nut inside and some "Right Stuff" RTV.

^^^^^ What he said.

BTW Tom , do you know whose car that is?

[tbone]

I knew the answer. I was grasping at straws.....
I liked knowing that the assembly was bolted together at the factory, but there's just no way around it.

Yes Rex, I know who's car that pic is from..........YOURS!!!! :beer:

[Gixerdevil]

Does Terry still make the brackets?
And did you use the Marauder alternator? Thanks I got the whole cobra swap with front cover an all pulleys. Thinking Terry brackets will save time.. Thanks

Gixerdevil
2003 BMM #2700 38K miles

[guspech750]

Does Terry still make the brackets?
And did you use the Marauder alternator? Thanks I got the whole cobra swap with front cover an all pulleys. Thinking Terry brackets will save time.. Thanks

Gixerdevil
2003 BMM #2700 38K miles

Terry still makes them. From what I heard. There is a wait for them now as he moved if I recall correctly.

You can use the Marauder alternator. You need to remove the pulley from it and replace it Ford part number f5az-10344-a

Ditch that Cobra front cover and pulley set up. You will have to notch the frame for the alternator using the Cobra cover. Buy the brackets, use the Marauder front cover and be done with it. So much easier.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Blackened300a]

Terry still makes them. From what I heard. There is a wait for them now as he moved if I recall correctly.

You can use the Marauder alternator. You need to remove the pulley from it and replace it Ford part number f5az-10344-a

Ditch that Cobra front cover and pulley set up. You will have to notch the frame for the alternator using the Cobra cover. Buy the brackets, use the Marauder front cover and be done with it. So much easier.


What he said.
I'm using a set of the brackets and it made things very simple. The alternator bracket may need to be grinded down a little near the water pump pulley. Otherwise they work great. I have a spare 6 rib non clutched alt pulley if needed.

[Gixerdevil]

Great I found a email on a mustang form for Terry. Sent him a message for brackets hopfully it was the right email address for him. Anyone have contact info for Terry??
Thanks

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Yes, I am resurrecting an oldie but goodie thread.

My supercharger, intercooler and lower intake is fully assembled from the factory. Is there a way to drill this for the IAT sensor and not get shavings in there, or should I just go ahead and disassemble it to be safe?

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y47/blaster250cr/blue%20car/IMG_1842.jpg

So what's the deal with this..are you not planning on using this stock cobra IAT sensor that is already on the back of the intake? If using the stock IAT, are you unable to run a boost gauge?

[guspech750]

So what's the deal with this..are you not planning on using this stock cobra IAT sensor that is already on the back of the intake? If using the stock IAT, are you unable to run a boost gauge?

There is a boost port off the back of the Eaton. You can run your boost gauge and FRPS off that port.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[03sport007]

So what's the deal with this..are you not planning on using this stock cobra IAT sensor that is already on the back of the intake? If using the stock IAT, are you unable to run a boost gauge?

I used the factory location...never understood why people drilled holes? If you do this you still need to block the factory hole so what's the advantage?

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

I used the factory location...never understood why people drilled holes? If you do this you still need to block the factory hole so what's the advantage?

Exactly, I have been reading non-stop about the swap for the past couple of days, and still can't figure out why you would want to drill into the eaton if you have one already. At first I figured it was a lightning vs. cobra thing, but seems to be just a pinout difference for a secondary IAT sensor on the cobras.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

There is a boost port off the back of the Eaton. You can run your boost gauge and FRPS off that port.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

Joe, are folks relocating the IAT to a spot adjacent to the existing port? Just trying to figure out the drilling portion.

[justbob]

Exactly, I have been reading non-stop about the swap for the past couple of days, and still can't figure out why you would want to drill into the eaton if you have one already. At first I figured it was a lightning vs. cobra thing, but seems to be just a pinout difference for a secondary IAT sensor on the cobras.

Short answer? Most can't comprehend wiring up a 4 wire sensor with only two wires..

That's the way we did Mike's car, works fine.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[loud2004marquis]

Two wires from the MAF and two wires from the EGR harness.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Short answer? Most can't comprehend wiring up a 4 wire sensor with only two wires..

That's the way we did Mike's car, works fine.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

Sweet thanks Bob. :beer:

[guspech750]

Short answer? Most can't comprehend wiring up a 4 wire sensor with only two wires..

That's the way we did Mike's car, works fine.



Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

True story.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[guspech750]

Joe, are folks relocating the IAT to a spot adjacent to the existing port? Just trying to figure out the drilling portion.

I don't think so. A few people including myself used the Cobra IAT2 hole as my boost gauge port. I too located my IAT in the lower intake manifold. I just did it to be different.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/21/re2y8ygy.jpg

brass fittings for my boost gauge.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[justbob]

Two wires from the MAF and two wires from the EGR harness.

Only two wires from the MAF works. IIRC pins 2&3. I remember some discrepancy between that or pins 3&4, either way I believe worked because two are VREF (IAT & MAP) and two are signal return. I know there is two different configured set ups running around without issue, neither one pulls off the EGR. Now, there is a third set up that I believe a Brian went with (Fordnut) < great guy I FINALLY got to meet BTW!

There is another issue with the four wire set up as well, Joe found two different write ups on that as well! That's why we just went the two wire set up and it reads IATs without fail. So there you go, plenty of different options, most/all work the same and you save a few bucks buying a drill bit & tap. Unless your like me and own 2 1/2 of everything. LOL

But if you want to drill have at it, stupid easy and plenty of meat to tap.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

So I don't have to tear down my supercharger assembly and drill a hole.....WIN!

[justbob]

So I don't have to tear down my supercharger assembly and drill a hole.....WIN!

No, you still need to. But only you. :)


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[tbone]

No, you still need to. But only you. :)


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I'm so confused.:confused:

I'll figure it out once I get to that point.

[lji372]

I'm so confused.:confused:

I'll figure it out once I get to that point.

I think he's pulling your chain......maybe not:)

[guspech750]

I think he's pulling your chain......maybe not:)

Ding ding ding ding.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Sweet, thanks guys :beer:

[tbone]

I think he's pulling your chain......maybe not:)

I knew he was. But now I don't know where I AM supposed to mount the thing.

[guspech750]

I knew he was. But now I don't know where I AM supposed to mount the thing.

When you say thing. Do you mean your Lightning IAT sensor?

If so, return it and buy a Cobra IAT2 sensor and pigtail.




Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[8UWITH6]

Does it really matter which one you use? Cobra vs Lightning? Does one read better/different than the other?

[tbone]

When you say thing. Do you mean your Lightning IAT sensor?

If so, return it and buy a Cobra IAT2 sensor and pigtail.




Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

I bought the Cobra sensor and pigtail. I just don't understand if I have to drill or not and how to wire it.
When I'm ready to start the job next spring, I'm going to come to your house, pick your brain about the job, stare at your engine, take some pics, drink too many beers and pass out in your bed.....

[RacerX]

You need to drill/tap the back of the lower plenum, just where the IAT sensor is in the pic, Cut the two outer wires before the MAF connector harness. Those two wires will need to be lengthened and run to the sensor you'll install in the plenum. That way the PCM is readind actual intake temps instead of temps at the MAF. Our MAFs have a built in temperature sensor that is no longer needed when you wire this new one in. The PCM will pull timing if your intake temps get too high now. Which, saved my arse when my intercooler pump relay died at the track last year!

[tbone]

You need to drill/tap the back of the lower plenum, just where the IAT sensor is in the pic, Cut the two outer wires before the MAF connector harness. Those two wires will need to be lengthened and run to the sensor you'll install in the plenum. That way the PCM is readind actual intake temps instead of temps at the MAF. Our MAFs have a built in temperature sensor that is no longer needed when you wire this new one in. The PCM will pull timing if your intake temps get too high now. Which, saved my arse when my intercooler pump relay died at the track last year!


Wow! A straight answer! Thanks RacerX!

[8UWITH6]

I understand the reasoning and wiring but does it make a difference on which route I choose? Is one better than another? Thanks

[RacerX]

If your plan is to use the Lighning IAT2 sensor, you're good to go. You don't need the 03/04 Cobra IAT2 sensor as it has the MAP sensor in it also and we usually use that hole in the supercharger base to install a fitting for reading boost and vacuum to a gauge.

Sensor: http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=86
Threaded sensor part numbers: DY-754 or F6SZ-12A697-A

Connector harness (you can get cheaper at Rockauto): http://www.blueovalchips.com/index.php?l=product_detail&p=22

[guspech750]

I bought the Cobra sensor and pigtail. I just don't understand if I have to drill or not and how to wire it.
When I'm ready to start the job next spring, I'm going to come to your house, pick your brain about the job, stare at your engine, take some pics, drink too many beers and pass out in your bed.....

Hey Tom.
Cobra IAT2 sensor = no need to drill.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/eba3ebyr.jpg

Lightning IAT sensor = drill & tap in the lower manifold.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/uhehyga2.jpg


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[justbob]

Hey Tom.
Cobra IAT2 sensor = no need to drill.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/eba3ebyr.jpg

Lightning IAT sensor = drill & tap in the lower manifold.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/uhehyga2.jpg


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

Don't get it. Can you simplify it?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[justbob]

I understand the reasoning and wiring but does it make a difference on which route I choose? Is one better than another? Thanks

Same.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[RacerX]

If you stay with the Cobra MAP/Temp sensor, this is the pinout:

http://webpages.charter.net/jmrollen/Linc/cobra%20iat2.gif

Same....

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/579/IAT2.gif

[guspech750]

Don't get it. Can you simplify it?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I'll try. Let see.

Boys have an outy

Girls have an inny.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[8UWITH6]

Okay, thanks for the clarification on if there was a difference or not. I will use the Lightning IAT and pigtail I already have. Now the Cobra IAT2 hole just tap it, screw in some brass and run it to my boost gauge.......... thanks fellas.

[tbone]

Hey Tom.
Cobra IAT2 sensor = no need to drill.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/eba3ebyr.jpg

Lightning IAT sensor = drill & tap in the lower manifold.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/26/uhehyga2.jpg


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

Ok, so I bought the Lightning IAT sensor. I think I'll get the Cobra one so I don't have to disassemble my supercharger from the lower.

Can I still pass out in your bed?

[tbone]

Don't get it. Can you simplify it?


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

It's easy if you've done it before. Please go slowly. I'm just a virgin. :eek:

[justbob]

It's easy if you've done it before. Please go slowly. I'm just a virgin. :eek:

We all were, just my turn to have fun.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

This last page answers all of my questions. Except if the passing out in his bed will be allowed. :rolleyes:

[tbone]

We all were, just my turn to have fun.


Self proclaimed Builder Of Badassery.

Buy it, Break it, Build it BETTER.
"Since 2004"

I know Bobbie...:bandit:

[tbone]

This last page answers all of my questions. Except if the passing out in his bed will be allowed. :rolleyes:

He's not accepting the bait. What happened to the Guspech we all know and love? :confused:

[tbone]

Anyone have a cheap source for a Cobra IAT2 sensor?

Or a used one for sale?

Is the pigtail the same as the one for the lightning sensor?

[RacerX]

Anyone have a cheap source for a Cobra IAT2 sensor?

Or a used one for sale?

Is the pigtail the same as the one for the lightning sensor?

Pigtail is the same. Motorcraft Part # WPT420 https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=508237&cc=1410578
RockAuto has the sensor. Motorcraft Part #'s F6SZ-12A697-A or DY754 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2313850
Another harness catalog: http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/Socket_Assemblies_Harness_Conn ectors_s/265.htm?searching=Y&sort=7&cat=265&show=45&page=2

[tbone]

The listing you put up is for the lightning sensor. I need the Cobra one. Thanks though.


Cobra
http://www.dragtimes.com/images-classifieds-large/-2003-03-04-supercharged-Mustang-Cobra-IAT2-IAT-se-for-sale_310715699361.jpg (http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/-2003-03-04-supercharged-Mustang-Cobra-IAT2-IAT-sensor-Eaton-4-6dohc-_310715699361.html)

Lightning
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A% 2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2 FMotorcraft%2FDY754.jpg&imagekey=2313850-0&width=450

The pigtail looks like it is probably different.

[ChiTownMaraud3r]

Are people like this off their meds??

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-2004-Mustang-Cobra-Eaton-Supercharger-/271365956868?pt=Motors_Car_Tru ck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3AMustang&hash=item3f2eabe504&vxp=mtr

[RacerX]

The listing you put up is for the lightning sensor. I need the Cobra one. Thanks though.


Cobra
http://www.dragtimes.com/images-classifieds-large/-2003-03-04-supercharged-Mustang-Cobra-IAT2-IAT-se-for-sale_310715699361.jpg (http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/-2003-03-04-supercharged-Mustang-Cobra-IAT2-IAT-sensor-Eaton-4-6dohc-_310715699361.html)

Lightning
http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A% 2F%2Fwww.rockauto.com%2Finfo%2 FMotorcraft%2FDY754.jpg&imagekey=2313850-0&width=450

The pigtail looks like it is probably different.

Ahhhhh... If you need the Cobra sensor, which has 4 wires since it read barometric pressure as well as temp, I have one sitting around somewhere. Why do you want to do it this way? The MM EGR valve has the BAR sensor in it already. Or are you taking the wires out of that harness to wire it up to the Cobra IAT2 BAR/Temp harness?

[tbone]

I haven't crossed the how to's of the wiring yet. The only reason I want the Cobra sensor is so that I don't have to drill and tap my setup. I don't mind drilling/tapping, that's easy. It's just that I bought my s/c, intercooler and lower brand new off a crate motor and I don't want to take it apart to drill. Factory assembly makes me happy.....

I'll trade you for the lightning sensor and pigtail I have..... :beer:

[RacerX]

You've got mail! Btw, anyone else that would like to use the stock 03/04 Cobra Sensor: MAP/IAT2 pigtail part # - WPT508 - 3U2Z-14S411-SPA
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=2604694

[tbone]

I just responded to your PM and then saw this about the pigtail. WIN!!!

Ordered up.

Anyone that needs a lightning sensor and pigtail, PM me.

[sparky1562]

Okay guys, I have a question! Are you bolting the METCO MMC0001 kit to the stock Marauder damper or a cobra damper? I just got off the phone with Rick at Metco, and he was telling me the hub is specifically designed for the lighting/cobra damper and I am confused. I didn't specifically see it mentioned or not in the parts thread Sticky.

Maybe I just missed it...
Herb

[guspech750]

Okay guys, I have a question! Are you bolting the METCO MMC0001 kit to the stock Marauder damper or a cobra damper? I just got off the phone with Rick at Metco, and he was telling me the hub is specifically designed for the lighting/cobra damper and I am confused. I didn't specifically see it mentioned or not in the parts thread Sticky.

Maybe I just missed it...
Herb

Mine is bolted to the stock MM dampener. There should be a listing on their web page for a Marauder kit.


Sent from The White House on taxpayers dimes.

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[sparky1562]

Yes, but Rick at Metco told me it was based on a lightning/cobra damper not the Marauder. I told him everyone was bolting them up to the Marauder damper and he was unaware of that. Good to know it works!