Who has installed SW headers by themselves?

[babbage]

I'm at some point I'm going to get Stainless Works LT's (rev 2) which apparently have no issue with the dip stick etc.

How long did it take you and what is the generic process for doing the job? Any special tools etc

Thanks!

[SC Cheesehead]

I'm at some point I'm going to get Stainless Works LT's (rev 2) which apparently have no issue with the dip stick etc.

How long did it take you and what is the generic process for doing the job? Any special tools etc

Thanks!

PM 03mmmonroe, I think he did his own SW header install.

[boatmangc]

I want to know too
10% off till 12/31

[blazen71]

Search for the group buy thread. Lots of info there

[LANDY]

They are easier to install than the kooks. And never heard of any issues with them.
The first time I did my kooks it took about half a day to take The manifolds off and install the Lt's. That should give u an idea.

[MCAT]

loosen the 2 bolts for the motor mount that thread into the block, (do not take them all the way out) & jack the drivers side of the motor up so you get about a 1" gap between the mount & the block, then the dipstick tube will have room to slide in & out (within this gap) with out getting bent &/or broken, this will work even with the headers bolted up tight to the heads.

the other side (pass) is harder to deal with (in my opinion) if you plan to use the factory studs, you will have to take off your FEAD belt & remove the bolts for your ac comp, & move it slightly forward to make room to
slip the front header pipe on to the stud.

not that hard to install, yet just like any header install you have to jockey some crap around " a pain in the A$$":)

[babbage]

^^^ thanks - what holds the studs into the block? I would like to re-use factory studs as that's easier - what is the advantage to replace them? e.g. they will be less likely to break - or I won't have to move the a/c compressor around..

[babbage]

Search for the group buy thread. Lots of info there


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=55678


The one that got locked and deleted?

[ImpalaSlayer]

my kooks took forever, i hate them

[SC Cheesehead]

my kooks took forever, i hate them


FRPP Shortys FTW! :banana2:

[babbage]

my kooks took forever, i hate them


any special tools? Did you jack motor, break any studs? I realize the nuts on the stock manifolds are hard to reach, some from top and some from underneath...

I'm just thinking I should install them myself now..

[ImpalaSlayer]

nope studs came right not no problem. def get the SW kooks are garbage for what you pay. no special tools, cant remember if i lifted the motor up or not. but i did have to install my starter in 2 pieces and grind alot off the steering shaft. real pita

[DOOM]

nope studs came right not no problem. def get the SW kooks are garbage for what you pay.

No problems with my KOOKS and i wouldn't call them garbage.

As a matter of fact when i priced BOTH KITS the KOOKS were cheaper! And that included getting them "jet hot coated"

:twocents:

[ImpalaSlayer]

No problems with my KOOKS and i wouldn't call them garbage.

As a matter of fact when i priced BOTH KITS the KOOKS were cheaper! And that included getting them "jet hot coated"

:twocents:


you didnt install them your self either.

ive herd of multiple kooks failures and inconsistent fitment. IMO junk! :down:

the fact they were cheaper is the only reason i bought them, the difference was like 250 bucks. then 175 for the coating. no way in hell i was paying kooks or sw 400 for ceramic coating, thats just stupid

[DOOM]

you didnt install them your self either.

ive herd of multiple kooks failures and inconsistent fitment. IMO junk! :down:

the fact they were cheaper is the only reason i bought them, the difference was like 250 bucks. then 175 for the coating. no way in hell i was paying kooks or sw 400 for ceramic coating, thats just stupid

My ceramic coating was less than $200 bucks! :D

People have also commented on failures and fitting issues (rubbing steering shaft) with SW.

There is no PERFECT HEADER KIT for our cars.

But ill say im happy with a mod that gave me +50RWHP! :beatnik: :burnout:

To the OP of this thread
Most people that have done "self installs" here have got them done in a day.

Zack would be the man to talk to about the best way to self install headers.

Git er done and enjoy the new power & sound they will bring you! :beer:

[Spectragod]

A 50HP bolt on if your forced air. I did mine in 4 hours or so. I had an advantage, air tools, a buddys lift, and I used to make a living working on cars.

The added plus, my car had 18K on it when I did it, never in the salt, rain, etc.

Zack used to say he did them on the ground, and that may be, but it would have been hard for me to have done it that way.

[Seneca]

Just An FYI I installed my stainless works headers and exhaust. My car at the time was a daily driver and had 30k miles on it. all my studs came out rather then the nuts threading off. they were pretty rusty so i just got new studs and nuts along with new manifold gaskets all oem. The EGR tube was the worst part. If i didnt have access to a torch i dont think i would have got it off. i did have to tweak the EGR tube not a biggie though. I dont remember loosening the motor mount bolts. i do remember taking the ac comp. loose... Took about 4 hrs just to remove manifolds and install the headers. wasnt a bad job by any means.

[MCAT]

fwiw I used the factory studs & nuts, & did the install
using 4 jack stands with no problem, plenty of room.

[ImpalaSlayer]

fwiw I used the factory studs & nuts, & did the install
using 4 jack stands with no problem, plenty of room.

good point on the hard ware. use the oem stuff not the crap they send with the headers. i was lucky enough to be able to reuse all the nuts and studs and gaskets. i have zero leaks at the header, i do think i have one a bit farther down but thats another story.

[babbage]

Wow, thanks for all of the great tips everyone! It looks like FEBRUARY!

About 2 months. I can't wait - lol. Checking part #'s for OEM gaskets, studs and nuts.

Also: my cat custom cat back exhaust bolts up to factory locations but is 2.25 inches. (larger than stock) The SW MAUCAT system is designed to bolt to factory location, but I thought the SW lead pipes are 2.5 inches. Can anyone post a picture of what this looks like bolted to factory pipes?

Thanks again everyone! Appreciate it. After hearing "how easy" it is. I'm gonna do it myself on jackstands in my garage..

[Joe Walsh]

my kooks took forever, i hate them

I installed my Kooks headers by myself...PITA!

It took the better part of a weekend....Of course, I did not work on it 24/7.
Knowing what I know now, I could get them installed in under 8 hours.

I would recommend:
- Put the car up on jackstands...a must!
- Unbolt both motor mounts so that you can jack up either side of the engine for clearance.
- You might want to loosen the transmission crossmember bolts also. Just remember to tighten them back up when you are all done.
- Reuse the OEM studs, nuts and the layered stainless steel gaskets.
- Remove the starter
- Have every conceivable 3/8" universal and ratchet extensions on hand.
- Use a 1/2" box end wrench on the impossible to reach nuts.
- Pull both front wheels for access to the manifold bolts through the wheelwells. (using the l-o-n-g 3/8" extensions)
- Spray all the OEM exhaust nuts/studs with 'PB Blaster' right after you shut down the engine. It'll smoke some, but as the manifolds/bolts/nuts cool they will draw in more PB Blaster. (Do this 2-3 times in the days right before you start the project.)
- Be gentle removing the dipstick tube!...I found out the hard way and had to order a new one from Ford....:(
- I did not unbolt my A/C compressor and move it out of the way, but it would have made access easier.

[babbage]

I installed my Kooks headers by myself...PITA!

It took the better part of a weekend....Of course, I did not work on it 24/7.
Knowing what I know now, I could get them installed in under 8 hours.

I would recommend:
- Put the car up on jackstands...a must!
- Unbolt both motor mounts so that you can jack up either side of the engine for clearance.
- You might want to loosen the transmission crossmember bolts also. Just remember to tighten them back up when you are all done.
- Reuse the OEM studs, nuts and the layered stainless steel gaskets.
- Remove the starter
- Pull both front wheels for access to the manifold bolts through the wheelwells.
- Have every conceivable 3/8" universal and ratchet extension on hand.
- Use a 1/2" box end wrench on the impossible to reach nuts.
- Spray all the OEM exhaust nuts/studs with 'PB Blaster' right after you shut down the engine. It'll smoke some, but as the manifolds/bolts/nuts cool they will draw in more PB Blaster. (Do this 2-3 times in the days right before you start the project.)
- Be gentle removing the dipstick tube!...I found out the hard way and had to order a new one from Ford....:(
- I did not unbolt my A/C compressor and move it out of the way, but it would have made access easier.

Awesomeness Joe! :bows:

Great tip on the wheels - I wouldn't have thought of that. (call me captain obvious)

Does the oil dipstick tube come out like the trans dipstick tube - just a grommet and pull it up and out?

[roadhemi]

My cats are going bad, starting to rattle, $1100 to replace just the cats... Anyone ever used OBX Racing full exhaust kit? I found them on Ebay at a close out price, shops in town (PCB, FL) are quoting around $500 for the install, any thoughts? The full exhaust and install will only be a few hundred more...

[burt ragio]

RF Overload & I installed some SW headers on my 04. The install took a weekend. All done with simple hand tools & four jack stands. Be sure to spray all exhaust manafold nuts/bolts with PB Blast the night before. You may want to also consider new exhaust manafold bolts/nuts & gaskets. Ball flanges will also make things much easier should you need to dissamble for trans removal. While your at it go for high flow cats. Get it all done at once.

[Dragcity]

Just take your time. Set aside a few days for any issues you may have. Rather than removing my dipstick tube, I cut the header flange.

Order new gaskets and count on replacing a few studs and nuts. I did Kooks, which I think are a bit more difficult, but did it at 70,000 miles and several winters. Lots of rusted studs.

I did not undo my motor mounts. Use an old towel for a pillow to rest your head on, and wear safety goggles to keep debris out of your eyes.

I had trouble tightening a few nuts, don't be afraid to heat up a cheap Craftsman 13mm wrench and bend it to facilitate the proper angle.

[babbage]

Just take your time. Set aside a few days for any issues you may have. Rather than removing my dipstick tube, I cut the header flange.

Order new gaskets and count on replacing a few studs and nuts. I did Kooks, which I think are a bit more difficult, but did it at 70,000 miles and several winters. Lots of rusted studs.

I did not undo my motor mounts. Use an old towel for a pillow to rest your head on, and wear safety goggles to keep debris out of your eyes.

I had trouble tightening a few nuts, don't be afraid to heat up a cheap Craftsman 13mm wrench and bend it to facilitate the proper angle.

Nice! good tips. I chuckled out loud. Thanks guys.

[TAKEDOWN]

Great info guys... Thanks! Hopefully s00n I'll have mine installed too.

[babbage]

I got a nice big box from Stainless Works yesterday! Nice thick double wall box, everything very carefully and neatly packed. Every single item bubble wrapped and taped. plus a lot of compressed paper fill. A+ on packing.

Got a build sheet with check marks on it so everything is in the box. Ended up getting them from D'Agostino Racing. $1500.00 shipped - got the MAUCAT system: Headers, high flow cats, lead pipes. No welding -- nothing to do later, bolts right on.



Comes with:
- 4 big stainless band clamps
- 2 high flow cats from random technology with warranty card
- 2 O2 sensor extenders
- 1 free t-shirt (black) ! Cool they threw this in for free
- 2 long tube header assy. Newer design with merge spike installed
- 2 lead pipes - so that I can bolt it up to my "Factory" exhaust.
- 1 build sheet with check marks on it with the picture of the system

System comes with (4) O2 sensor bungs, so no mil eliminator needed or tune hack to shut of rear O2's

Very, very nice looking. There is a small amount of grit inside from some of the welds, which I will clean out. Thinking of giving them a good buff before installing in a few weeks. I also pickup up 16 studs and 16 nuts from my local Ford dealer and a new set of Ford/OEM gaskets.

Getting ready for the install.

1. Buffing compound - want to polish them before install what to use.
2. Red RTV or copper gasket spray - needed?
3. What's a good Dyna/mat heat/sound blocker that will "self adhere" above longtubes.

I'm psyched! Thanks Guys...

[CBT]

Well, are they on yet? :D Post some pics for us pretty please.

[babbage]

Well, are they on yet? :D Post some pics for us pretty please.


Not yet, I'll post a few shots tonight.

[Loco1234]

I have succusfully installed the SW headers on the engine stand then installed into the MM after they were all bolted up to the engine. FYI

[babbage]

I have succusfully installed the SW headers on the engine stand then installed into the MM after they were all bolted up to the engine. FYI


you didn't pull the engine just to install them right?

[babbage]

pics or it doesn't exist - last one is new merge spike.

Need a suggestion for some decent heat/sound material to go above them on install.

[musclemerc]

Looking good Babb's! ;)

[LANDY]

^ very nice, those are some sexy looking LT's.
BTW i personally dont like the look of the wraps.

[jsignorelli]

I gave the car to my Mustang Club mechanic to install. He had it all done in just over three hours, but he does have a lift at his speed shop. He had no trouble with the oil dip stick, even though SW recommends the LOKAR P/N ED-5014. I had the stick, so we put it in anyway. With over 30 inches of snow this winter, I didn't want to play with my driveway moving cars in and out of my garage to do this. Let the pros have some money!

[rayjay]

Very, very nice Eric! I had planned on buying these last year until the wifes Passat got totalled by that drunk that hit her. My header fund went towards buying her our Lincoln LS8. If our new governor doesn't completely screw us over I will be looking at these later this year. Awaiting your outcome and want to see the car afterwards. Congrats! :beer: You have to come to Carlisle guy!

[MOTOWN]

headers look great!, post some pics after the install:beer:

[babbage]

Looking good Babb's! ;)

Thanks, I'm just trying to keep up with you! :D


^ very nice, those are some sexy looking LT's.
BTW i personally dont like the look of the wraps.
They are even more sexy in person. I'm not going to wrap them, don't like the look either and it voids warranty I think.



I gave the car to my Mustang Club mechanic to install. He had it all done in just over three hours, but he does have a lift at his speed shop. He had no trouble with the oil dip stick, even though SW recommends the LOKAR P/N ED-5014. I had the stick, so we put it in anyway. With over 30 inches of snow this winter, I didn't want to play with my driveway moving cars in and out of my garage to do this. Let the pros have some money!

Thanks for posting the LOKAR P/N - same length as MM dip stick? Summit has them for $52.00 - I want to learn some too, so this will be worth it not to pay anyone money. (then I can charge Ray when I install his.. :P)


Very, very nice Eric! I had planned on buying these last year until the wifes Passat got totalled by that drunk that hit her. My header fund went towards buying her our Lincoln LS8. If our new governor doesn't completely screw us over I will be looking at these later this year. Awaiting your outcome and want to see the car afterwards. Congrats! :beer: You have to come to Carlisle guy!
LS8 is a nice car. I've been waiting to get these for a while... and Hey thanks Ray - you got to come to ESTA.


headers look great!, post some pics after the install:beer:
I will thanks guys...

[Chevyguy]

Keep in mind that the studs can break!!

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2227813&fpart=1

Best thing is if the stock studs all come out with the nuts. Then I would replace em with grade 8 header bolts NOT stainless though. I coated my exhaust studs with anti-seize before installing them on my 96 swap.

[rayjay]

LS8 is a nice car. I've been waiting to get these for a while... and Hey thanks Ray - you got to come to ESTA.


I will thanks guys...

Yea, I have to make it to ESTA this year, but I now have a traction problem having gone back to OEM tires with the 4.10 gears. You're gonna blow my doors off anyway. :D Carlisle, any meet for that matter, is a whole different experience. Its a blast being with 50+ Marauder owners all in one place. You and your Mrs would have a good time. She'll fit right in with us. Look into Carlise or MV9. Its only 4.5 hrs away. MV9 I'm positive will be very special. I know all the committee members and they will put on a 1st class event well worth attending.

[justbob]

I wish I could have me some headers:( But I would need a detune to stay near my numbers. I just can't justify $1500 for sound plus another dyno:shake:

Good luck, but you shouldn't need it.:up:

[rayjay]

I wish I could have me some headers:( But I would need a detune to stay near my numbers. I just can't justify $1500 for sound plus another dyno:shake:

Good luck, but you shouldn't need it.:up:

So Bob, you're saying to take advantage of the headers you'd need to change your internals or risk grenading your engine? Headers on a blown engine = 50+ HP or so. Thats what I have always been led to believe here.

[babbage]

Keep in mind that the studs can break!!

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2227813&fpart=1

Best thing is if the stock studs all come out with the nuts. Then I would replace em with grade 8 header bolts NOT stainless though. I coated my exhaust studs with anti-seize before installing them on my 96 swap.

Hey there - got link for the grade 8 header bolts? And did you use locking ones?

My manifolds are in decent shape, very little rust and I've been hitting them with PB, I don't think I'll break any. I did purchase 16 new studs, and 16 nuts and a gasket set all from my local Ford parts counter. The studs have a 6 sided center chunk so they should come out.

[rayjay]

From what I've read if you decide to use the locking type, lock them. They don't equate, but I did have to go back and once a year retorque the header bolts on my Focus. PITA.

[CNGInterceptor]

Keep in mind that the studs can break!!

http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2227813&fpart=1


Thanks for posting Frank! That was my disaster of an install...

Good luck babbage! Can't wait to hear it

[LANDY]

Hey there - got link for the grade 8 header bolts? And did you use locking ones?

My manifolds are in decent shape, very little rust and I've been hitting them with PB, I don't think I'll break any. I did purchase 16 new studs, and 16 nuts and a gasket set all from my local Ford parts counter. The studs have a 6 sided center chunk so they should come out.
I have the stage 8 locking bolts, I got them from summit, I didnt see them in the catalog but gave them a call and three days later they were at my door.

[justbob]

So Bob, you're saying to take advantage of the headers you'd need to change your internals or risk grenading your engine? Headers on a blown engine = 50+ HP or so. Thats what I have always been led to believe here.

Bingo. My baby isn't going even one more horsey over what it is now. Sure. it would probably be fine. Maybe. but not on my watch. I have heard at 420, your already at risk, 450ish, bad gas and boom. So nope, not risking it.

[babbage]

I have the stage 8 locking bolts, I got them from summit, I didnt see them in the catalog but gave them a call and three days later they were at my door.


Hey thanks, I've decided to get these: (and return nuts and studs to Ford parts counter)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-9432-A54/
http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/250x250/M-9432-A50_A51.jpg





100% reliable, zero failures in more than 6,000,000 applications. Header fasteners absolutely, positively will not back out. Eliminates need to monitor and tighten bolts regularly
Grade 8 aircraft quality bolts made in U.S.A. Duplex nickel plated

[Dragcity]

I just replaced most of the nuts and studs due to rust/corrosion. New Ford gaskets. My install has been fine. No leaks. No loosening.

Those do look nice. Some things are hard to get to and angles are a bite. Patience is they key concept ....

[LANDY]

Hey thanks, I've decided to get these: (and return nuts and studs to Ford parts counter)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FMS-M-9432-A54/
http://www.fordracingparts.com/images/part/250x250/M-9432-A50_A51.jpg
Those are exactly it if I remember right they are the same as the stage 8 just more expenssive.

[babbage]

Those are exactly it if I remember right they are the same as the stage 8 just more expenssive.

I think the FRPP bolts cost about the same as 16 studs and 16 nuts from my local Ford Parts counter. $50 is nothing compared to a set of $1500 headers! I figure I'll never have to mess with them once those babies are on. Thanks for the tips Landy.. I ordered the LOKAR modular v8 dip stick too.

:beer:

[LANDY]

I think the FRPP bolts cost about the same as 16 studs and 16 nuts from my local Ford Parts counter. $50 is nothing compared to a set of $1500 headers! I figure I'll never have to mess with them once those babies are on. Thanks for the tips Landy.. I ordered the LOKAR modular v8 dip stick too.

:beer: sweet..........

[CameronVic]

I used the stage 8 locking nuts too, I didn't put the locking part of them though, I'm sure the TQ I put them to will be fine.

I also used Copper RTV to stick the gaskets to the headers, then on the gaskets where they meet the heads. Makes it easier, cause then you don't have a header gasket continually falling in your face, also helps a lot with preventing exhaust leaks! (but you knew that)

Ask for the whole "don't use stainless hardware on aluminum heads"... Why do they even make stainless hardware for aluminum heads if that's SOOOO BADDD? I think that might just be an opinion and not a fact.

Oh, BTW, you're gonna have to do a little more than that to catch me at STAP! I won't even use the spray! ;) :beer:

[cougar9150]

Those are exactly it if I remember right they are the same as the stage 8 just more expenssive.

You are correct. They won't look like the pic. I got those and Landy got the regular grade 8 brand and the sets were identical. The more expensive Ford ones had a different insert in the package that said Ford instead of grade 8.

[babbage]

I used the stage 8 locking nuts too, I didn't put the locking part of them though, I'm sure the TQ I put them to will be fine.

I also used Copper RTV to stick the gaskets to the headers, then on the gaskets where they meet the heads. Makes it easier, cause then you don't have a header gasket continually falling in your face, also helps a lot with preventing exhaust leaks! (but you knew that)

Ask for the whole "don't use stainless hardware on aluminum heads"... Why do they even make stainless hardware for aluminum heads if that's SOOOO BADDD? I think that might just be an opinion and not a fact.

Oh, BTW, you're gonna have to do a little more than that to catch me at STAP! I won't even use the spray! ;) :beer:
Re: STAP, remember I beat (2) SC'd 2v cars last year sans LT's. :D
On the RTV, I was going to use the red stuff, thanks for tip for sticking the gaskets to the headers. Is it copper gasket spray? got link?

I'm going to be installing the lock tabs, otherwise whats the point? My luck if I didn't they'd come loose on me.


You are correct. They won't look like the pic. I got those and Landy got the regular grade 8 brand and the sets were identical. The more expensive Ford ones had a different insert in the package that said Ford instead of grade 8.

The bolts I ordered are grade 8 hardened steel, but they are double nickel plated which is fine for the aluminum heads, plus I like that they are the Ford Racing brand. Last thing is two pieces of sound/heat deflecter to go above the headers on the body. Want it to self adhere. What should I go with? :confused:

[Dragcity]

And here I use never sieze on my header bolts....

[CameronVic]

On the RTV, I was going to use the red stuff, thanks for tip for sticking the gaskets to the headers. Is it copper gasket spray? got link?
http://yourautoworld.com/images/Accessories/permatex-high-temp-ultra-copper-rtv-silicone.jpg

[babbage]

And here I use never sieze on my header bolts....

Thanks, I will put a little bit on.




http://yourautoworld.com/images/Accessories/permatex-high-temp-ultra-copper-rtv-silicone.jpg

Geesh, I should have seen that. I will get some. Thanks Cameron!

[babbage]

Got the dipstick and header bolts kit today. Dipstick has a nice billet handle, flexible braided stainless line - very nice. check out the SVO badging on the bolt kit. Does this mean I have an SVO vehicle now?
:flamer:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 750&d=1296693228

[babbage]

Well I got both new SW longtube headers on - tight and good and perfect.

It was a very tough job. Started Friday night, some hours on Saturday and Sunday. I think I have at least 14 hours into it! I didn't break any bolts (thank god) Still have to put on cats and lead pipes and finish putting her back together tonight.

I did have to loosen the A/C compressor and remove the starter. I also had to remove the coolant tube that runs along the passenger side (and drain)

Didn't have to loosen motor mounts and jack engine up at all. My forearms still ache from all of the contorted angles. I did use all of the stage 8 locking header bolts on drivers side. passenger side they are only on the top - and I installed all of the stage 8 locking hardware. I used new ford studs and nuts on the lower passenger side as it was a real time-saver, slide headers in and on to the studs - easy.

I'll have to get a few pictures tonight if anyone wants to see...

[MOTOWN]

pics please:drool:

[LANDY]

Hey babs I did the same on the passanger side.

[LeoVampire]

Well I got both new SW longtube headers on - tight and good and perfect.

It was a very tough job. Started Friday night, some hours on Saturday and Sunday. I think I have at least 14 hours into it! I didn't break any bolts (thank god) Still have to put on cats and lead pipes and finish putting her back together tonight.

I did have to loosen the A/C compressor and remove the starter. I also had to remove the coolant tube that runs along the passenger side (and drain)

Didn't have to loosen motor mounts and jack engine up at all. My forearms still ache from all of the contorted angles. I did use all of the stage 8 locking header bolts on drivers side. passenger side they are only on the top - and I installed all of the stage 8 locking hardware. I used new ford studs and nuts on the lower passenger side as it was a real time-saver, slide headers in and on to the studs - easy.

I'll have to get a few pictures tonight if anyone wants to see...

I did my SW headers myself and also got the locar dipstick and stage 8 locking bolts.

You will love the sound and response difference. Congrats! :beer:

[babbage]

pics please:drool:

Ok, tonight I'll take some


Hey babs I did the same on the passanger side.

Geesh, I put the header on and I looked at where the bolts had to go, and I said 'no way jose' - took it off and bolted in the studs on the bottom.


I did my SW headers myself and also got the locar dipstick and stage 8 locking bolts.

You will love the sound and response difference. Congrats! :beer:

Thanks Leo, got a pic of how you mounted the Lokar unit. I have to do this tonight.

[CameronVic]

I must have teh pics!

[babbage]

Heres the pictures. EGR was tough, had to remove it - hit it with a hammer to change shape, but it bolted right on. All 4 O2 sensors - bolted on.

I really want to floor it, but I don't want to run it lean...


This picture is dedicated to Impalaslayer who had to install his starter in 2 pieces. Here we see there is plenty of room to slip the starter in.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 851&d=1298472612



Plenty of room around the steering shaft:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 849&d=1298472465


EGR: middle right - bolts right on..
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 848&d=1298472465

[musclemerc]

Looking good Babb's. Any reason you put rvt on the gaskets?

[babbage]

Looking good Babb's. Any reason you put rvt on the gaskets?

Just to stick them onto the headers - easier for install. I clamped the gaskets onto headers a day before installing. There isn't any rtv in the header pipes.

[Joe Walsh]

Last thing is two pieces of sound/heat deflecter to go above the headers on the body. Want it to self adhere. What should I go with? :confused:

I put these 12"x12" heat reflector sheets on my floorboards directly above the header/hi-flow cats. (DEI makes other sizes as well.)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010460/

They've been stuck on there for 6 years without any problems.

I also wrapped my fuel lines with a velcro heat sleeve and put a heat blanket around my starter,
because the headers ran fairly close to both and I didn't want to 'cook' them.

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/

[babbage]

I put these 12"x12" heat reflector sheets on my floorboards directly above the header/hi-flow cats. (DEI makes other sizes as well.)

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010460/

They've been stuck on there for 6 years without any problems.

I also wrapped my fuel lines with a velcro heat sleeve and put a heat blanket around my starter,
because the headers ran fairly close to both and I didn't want to 'cook' them.

http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/line-sleeving/heat-sheath-aluminized-sleeving
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010402/


Thanks, Joe. I didn't do anything with the heat/sound stuff yet.

The drivers side factory crap is loose and coming apart and needs to be cut out.

[rayjay]

Thanks, Joe. I didn't do anything with the heat/sound stuff yet.

The drivers side factory crap is loose and coming apart and needs to be cut out.

Eric are your tubes jet hot coated?

[babbage]

Eric are your tubes jet hot coated?

Nope, I just got plain headers. The factory fiberglass material thats near them is coming apart...

[CameronVic]

Looking good Babb's. Any reason you put rvt on the gaskets?That's what that RTV is made for I'm pretty sure. I guess you've just gotten lucky when putting headers on. Exhaust leaks where the head and header meet are never fun to try to fix.

[musclemerc]

^^^ Huh??? The stock SS gaskets are blow proof.

[CameronVic]

Can't be too safe! and Like Babbs said, they help with installation a lot.

[HoleyMoley64]

Just to stick them onto the headers - easier for install. I clamped the gaskets onto headers a day before installing. There isn't any rtv in the header pipes.

good thinking, that was my first question. looks like a hilatious angle to hold them on and try to line everything up

[jsignorelli]

I'm at some point I'm going to get Stainless Works LT's (rev 2) which apparently have no issue with the dip stick etc.

How long did it take you and what is the generic process for doing the job? Any special tools etc

Thanks!
I had my SW complete system (long tubes, cats, pipes, tail pieces) at a local Performance Shop.
This guy works on all of our Mustangs and race cars. He has his shop in Bergen County NJ, in Teaneck.

Kenny took 4 hours and he had to use the Lokar Dip Stick. I saw the problem the minute the long tubes were placed on the header bolts. The Lokar unit is mandatory.
By the way, when you hit the go-fast pedal, you'll wet your pants.
Save up and buy the SW system.
Jim

[babbage]

I had my SW complete system (long tubes, cats, pipes, tail pieces) at a local Performance Shop.
This guy works on all of our Mustangs and race cars. He has his shop in Bergen County NJ, in Teaneck.

Kenny took 4 hours and he had to use the Lokar Dip Stick. I saw the problem the minute the long tubes were placed on the header bolts. The Lokar unit is mandatory.
By the way, when you hit the go-fast pedal, you'll wet your pants.
Save up and buy the SW system.
Jim


I did get the Lokar unit, and installed it. It's a nice piece. The sound is great. I'm very happy with the SW kit - I also fattened up the fuel 2% at WOT just to be safe.

:beer:

[LeoVampire]

Ok, tonight I'll take some



Geesh, I put the header on and I looked at where the bolts had to go, and I said 'no way jose' - took it off and bolted in the studs on the bottom.



Thanks Leo, got a pic of how you mounted the Lokar unit. I have to do this tonight.

Here are the pics you asked for
23871

23872

23873

23874

[teamrope]

They are easier to install than the kooks. And never heard of any issues with them.
The first time I did my kooks it took about half a day to take The manifolds off and install the Lt's. That should give u an idea.

I've never posted anything about it, but I'm catching hell trying to get my passenger side to seal. I followed the instructions from S/W. but just can't seem to get the bottom front tight.

[LANDY]

I've never posted anything about it, but I'm catching hell trying to get my passenger side to seal. I followed the instructions from S/W. but just can't seem to get the bottom front tight. did you loosen the a/c compressor and move it out the way?

[2004_p71]

Well I got both new SW longtube headers on - tight and good and perfect.

It was a very tough job. Started Friday night, some hours on Saturday and Sunday. I think I have at least 14 hours into it! I didn't break any bolts (thank god) Still have to put on cats and lead pipes and finish putting her back together tonight.


I'll have to get a few pictures tonight if anyone wants to see...

great job man glad you didnt have to deal with broken studs.
that car is going to be a beast at stap cant wait to see it:burnout:

[teamrope]

did you loosen the a/c compressor and move it out the way?

Yep! The only thing I have not tried was unhooking the motor mount on that side and lifting the motor.

[babbage]

Update: I had a leak that I finally fixed today! :banana2::banana2::banana2:

It was the EGR pipe. That was it. Just wasn't tight enough. What a dummy I am for not getting this. My EGR pipe was very hard to connect and bolt on. I had to thread in the top a few turns, then loosen the bolts on the EGR/DPFE assy then go below and hook up the EGR nut to the SW pipe on the drivers side. It takes a big 1-1/16" wrench, and about 50 1/8 turns.

Geesh - took it out warmed her up - went WOT and the sound IS GONE. It was just an EGR leak. Now it is perfect. I left the Stage 8 nickel plated locking header bolts in! Nothing was wrong with the gaskets!

Anyway - note to future self installers of the SW longtubes -- the lower EGR nut needs to be such that you can no longer see any threads on the SW HEADER pipe - and it's good and tight.

:burnout:

[2004_p71]

glad you got this little issue fixed

[babbage]

Update: Love the LT's - definitely pulls a lot better. Not loud at all with my setup. Did the on-ramp merge today and I was up to 100 without really trying. Oops - had to back off a bit.

Also: locally I sold my old cats for $200.00 cash ($50 each) to a recycler just thought I'd share this tidbit - brings the price down to $1300.00 for the SW LT MAUCAT system..

[Dragcity]

Holy Shilt, Old cats are worth that much? Maybe I should dig mine outta the shed, I mean SAFE!

[Meteorite]

I installed the Stainless Works MAUCAT kit on my Marauder, on jack stands in my driveway. I think it took me about 20 hours total, which is the slowest time I've seen posted. LOL.

A lot of the time was frittered away on ridiculous little tasks. I think it took me about an hour and a half to grind/cut the bolts holding the old exhaust to the H-pipe. About an hour yesterday morning, just trying to wrestle the hose and clamp onto the bottom of the degas tank, spilling coolant all over in the process. And about 3 hours Saturday (see pic) backing out a stud that broke off just behind the nut. I broke one stud on each side. Last weekend, the one on the driver's side was extracted in 5 minutes by just using two nuts on the stud (2nd one as a "jam nut") and wrenching the first nut counterclockwise. That didn't work on the 2nd stud. The stud was too solidly in there, and I couldn't get enough torque on the nut without the wrench slipping. So, I welded it on, and then welded a socket to it, and used a long ratcheting drive to back it out. Whew. Not pretty, but it worked. Plus, I got some good practice on overhead welding in a confined space.

Then, too, I started to cross-thread a couple of the studs on the passenger's side, so I had to take the header off and make a trip to the hardware store for an 8mm tap. There were a couple of times I could have saved 30 or 60 minutes by just admitting "defeat" right away and undoing something. I hate to go backwards, but sometimes it really is the quickest way to the goal.

A couple of odd things: I had no EGR system on my car at all. The place where the fitting should have been on my driver's side header had been sloppily welded over (see pic). My car was an early 2002 build (4PP prototype) and for some unknown reason they did that. Also, it seems that SW's labelling on the tubes that go between the cats and the stock H-pipe was backwards. We ended up using the one marked "RT" on the left and the one marked "LF" on the right. We tried it the other way, but it made the 02 sensors hang down so low, I was afraid they'd catch on a speed bump.

I did not use the Lokar dipstick. It took me some time and effort to coax out the stock dipstick tube, and more time and effort to convince it to go back in.

One note on getting the nuts off: PB Blaster is great, but ... it works even better if you clean the threads with a wire brush directly after application (if you can get to them). Otherwise, you may end up pulling all the studs out with the nuts.

On thing I obtained near the end of the job, a ratcheting 13mm wrench, really saved a lot of time putting the nuts back on. Another thing was the special 02 sensor socket (and breaker bar) which helped me get the 02 sensors off.

I did hit the steering shaft pretty badly with the front tube on the driver's side, and I still haven't shimmed up my motor mounts to fix that yet. A bit disappointing when spending the kind of money that these headers cost.

One thing I will say that went unexpectedly smoothly was feeding the headers up into place from the bottom. Easy as pie on both sides, with just regular jackstands. That's the first time this has ever happened to me with a header installation.

And now, the fun part (my 17-year-old son Eliot is driving). There is a lot of masking noise from the camera car (Fiesta), but you can still get the idea. This is through the stock H-pipe and mufflers.

K6AnHLWAHw4

If anyone has questions about the installation process, feel free to ask while the whole thing is still fresh in my mind!

[LeoVampire]

Thanks for the post Meteorite About your install and results!

Sorry you had so many issues to deal with.

[StainlessWorks]

Awesome thread guys, it's nice to see everybody willing to give there advice. 20 hours to install and your still happy, can't beat that!

[Meteorite]

Here's a question I hope someone can answer:

I've noticed since the SW header installation, if I run the air conditioning ... when I stop the car and get out, I can hear condensation (water) dropping down somewhere onto the passenger side header.

Am I in danger of cracking the header, what with cold water dripping onto the hot header?

:eek:

[babbage]

nope. no problem. cold water puddles wont hurt either.

[mtenderenda]

I finally installed my SW headers with the catbacks...I took my time and got them in. The passenger side was harder to put in..You have to work around the power steering up, it could get frustrating..Once the parts are in and you take it out for a ride...it is really worth it...Watch out for police...they will pull you over, because it is loud...lol

[StainlessWorks]

I finally installed my SW headers with the catbacks...I took my time and got them in. The passenger side was harder to put in..You have to work around the power steering up, it could get frustrating..Once the parts are in and you take it out for a ride...it is really worth it...Watch out for police...they will pull you over, because it is loud...lol

Geez took you long enough.....hahaha

How's the throttle response starting from a dead stop, less pedal effort to get it moving?

Did you use RTV silicone on the flange or a gasket?

[MAROGER]

I am considering ordering the exact set up that babbage installed. At the present time I do not have a garage to work in so I called around for install prices. Does $450-500 sound about right?

[Blackened300a]

I am considering ordering the exact set up that babbage installed. At the present time I do not have a garage to work in so I called around for install prices. Does $450-500 sound about right?

That's a decent price for the install.

[babbage]

I am considering ordering the exact set up that babbage installed. At the present time I do not have a garage to work in so I called around for install prices. Does $450-500 sound about right?

Depending on the shop it will take 5-6 hours so that may be about right. make sure they do it right and not do a rush job.
Soak all studs with pb blaster first, if you break one it can be a nightmare.

I still love these headers! better power and mileage for sure. Good luck

[Blackened300a]

I still love these headers! better power and mileage for sure. Good luck

I havent discovered the mileage improvement yet. Ill have to see how it does on the road to MV9.

[loud2004marquis]

Great write up!