Rear shock leak??

[rauder775]

I tried doing a search first, but did not see any pertinent threads. I discovered my passenger side, rear shock was leaking fluid...at least that is where it appears to be coming from. The car only has 52k miles and no recent "big bumps" or anything...strange. I'm hoping it is not the dread axle bearing issue I've read about here - but the fluid appears to be from the shock, anyone have aaything similar??

[JAYSILVER04]

Had that happen too...at 30*** miles...replaced all 4...

[MOTOWN]

the very same shock leaked on me as well, you basicly have three choices oem, kyb, or qa1s (very pricey),most semm to go with oems, or kybs, oh and theres monroe sensa tracs.

guess that would be four!

[gilby04]

I tried doing a search first, but did not see any pertinent threads. I discovered my passenger side, rear shock was leaking fluid...at least that is where it appears to be coming from. The car only has 52k miles and no recent "big bumps" or anything...strange. I'm hoping it is not the dread axle bearing issue I've read about here - but the fluid appears to be from the shock, anyone have aaything similar??

The passenger side rear on mine started leaking at 29,960 miles.
Driver side was fine, but replaced anyway.
I never hit any "big bumps" either.
Apparently, seal failure is not a function of mileage...or bumps !

[Bluerauder]

I tried doing a search first, but did not see any pertinent threads. I discovered my passenger side, rear shock was leaking fluid...at least that is where it appears to be coming from. The car only has 52k miles and no recent "big bumps" or anything...strange. I'm hoping it is not the dread axle bearing issue I've read about here - but the fluid appears to be from the shock, anyone have anything similar??

My driver's side rear shock started leaking about a month ago at about 76,500 miles. Also can't remember any particular bumps or reasons for the leakage. Had them both replaced with OEM shocks at the beginning of December.

[liquid]

The "upside-down" rear shock design on our cars allows water condensation and shock oil mist (both completely natural and harmless occurrences) to build up inside the convoluted dust boot until they essentially precipitate--this can look like a leak. In 2006, Tokico and Ford worked together to redesign the rear shock to a "right-side-up" configuration which allowed these vapors to naturally dissolve into the air. So, any OE service part made in 2007 or later will have this design (sacrificing a bit of tire clearance for the sake of improved warranty).

Not saying that all of the cases above were not genuine leaks... just saying that there are a lot of cases where the shock is still fully functional. Genuine leaks are usually caused by 1) a rod manufacturing defect, usually detected within the first few thousand miles, or 2) externally inflicted damage to the rod such as a stone hit. The only thing that big bumps can do to make a shock leak, are to plunge the rod deep enough into the shock body that a nick near the end of the rod goes into the seal and then pumps extra oil out on its way back to extended length. If they have a particularly sharp edge, they can permanently damage the seal and then you have a gross leak.

A gross leak is easy to detect because the mineral oil inside the shock gets pumped out with every shock stroke... plus there is a high pressure gas charge in our monotubes that wants to push the oil past the seal. Either way, you end up with a puddle of oil rather than just a drip or a damp dust boot. If enough oil pumps out, the stroke of the shock becomes reduced because the internal floating piston is now pushing directly on the rod. This makes for a rough ride, and possibly even a higher stance, because the shock is now a air spring instead of a damper.

Hopefully this helps some people diagnose their shocks... if you still have full stroke of the shock, then you still have all your oil.

[LANDY]

Mine on right rear went out at 58k miles. I replaced all four with kyb's

[Blk Mamba]

My right rear failed at 80,xxx miles, I replaced them with Monroes.

[rauder775]

Thanks guys. I guess I just added myself as another "victim". Will take care of when I get a chance and perhaps this thread will show in searches going forward.

Thanks

[ctrlraven]

I had replaced my oems with Monroes and they lasted about 50k miles (one started leaking really bad), replaced both with OEM and like the ride a lot better with OEM.

[rauder775]

Have not had a chance to crawl under again. Will I have to mess with the load-leveling system at all in changing shocks?

[fastblackmerc]

Have not had a chance to crawl under again. Will I have to mess with the load-leveling system at all in changing shocks?

Why would you have to change the load-leveling system?

No, just leave it the way it is as long as you like the height.

Remember to turn off the air suspension before raising the rear of the car and to turn it back on after the car is back on the ground.

[JOEMERC]

how are the monroes compared to oems ,too soft or too firm ,where they sensa-tracs ? Was thinking of using them when my shocks go bad.

[rauder775]

Why would you have to change the load-leveling system?

No, just leave it the way it is as long as you like the height.

Remember to turn off the air suspension before raising the rear of the car and to turn it back on after the car is back on the ground.


Was not sure if the leveling system was integrated into the shocks in any way or not - glad to hear it is not.

[SID210SA]

I have gone through 3 on one side....keep replacing with OEM....Havent had anytrouble on my 3rd set.....but it is common problem. FWIW Wes reccomended the Sensatracs.

[Marauderjack]

Funny....at 221K miles I am still on the original shocks....seem to be fine with little to no rebound over dips & bumps and NO LEAKS!!!:beer:

Did I just get a "SPECIAL CAR"??:confused: ;)