Idle Air Control

[Bradley G]

I propose since this simple maintenence procedure kept a member from getting his car to start, we make a DIY stickey thread to remind everyone what to look for if they exhibit these symptoms.
Since I cleaned mine this AM the cars' crank time is reduced and the idle is smoother .

The other symptom ; I had to keep my foot on the accelerator pedal to keep the engine from stalling on start-up.
Like tbone mentioned in his " My Marauder Won't Start!" threadhttp://http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=68113 Recently,
he mentioned to me his crank to start time was also quicker.

[DOOM]

Well what did you do?

How often do you clean it?

[BODYMAN]

IAC pull it off spray it with carb cleaner let it soak for a while clean out any remaing carbon build up let it dry bolt it back up (clean youre MAF) at the same time. Thats it I do both my MM,s about every 4-months I have never exhibited the problems some members have. It should be a matainence thing like youre saying Brad

[jstevens]

Yeah, tell us. How do you clean it and what do you use?

[jstevens]

Do you think they're is an appropriate interval?

[DOOM]

Do you think they're is an appropriate interval?

That's what I want to know. My car is NOT a daily driver and doesn't get many miles put on it. Right now I'm at 50K!

So at how many miles do you clean it?

[BODYMAN]

That's what I want to know. My car is NOT a daily driver and doesn't get many miles put on it. Right now I'm at 50K!

So at how many miles do you clean it?

Doom, You not driving much is a factor I'd probably only do it once a year on that kinda miles. Carb cleaner to break up the carbon. You guys know were the IAC is right? After it soaks I use a smal soft bristle brush like tooth brush and a thin cloth pinkie finger the holes are very small. after doing Idle improves by 100% There was a thread on DIY A WHILE back I thought.

[Bradley G]

Just like they said, it's super easy to get to .
Mine is mounted close to the throttle body, stock location is very similar .
Two 10 MM bolts hold it on, so a 3/8 ratchet , short extention , 10 MM socket are all the tools you need.
The Cleaner is your choice, I used carb cleaner and Q tips.
Oh, yeah I also used a small flat blade screwdriver to work the diaphram back and forth.
When I got mine off I looked at it under a big florescent ;
It really did not look all that bad, but when I sprayed the cleaner, holy double hockey sticks the stuff that came out was nasty.
I took three Q tips at a time and scoured the inside as best I could.
Three turns and a good rinse I threw it back on less than two minutes, it started as soon as it caught & ran spankie!!! no stalling and super smooth idle, no low tone honking noise either!
This is the first time I have performed this service on my car is seven has almost 105K this may not be considered routine maintenence like oil changes but like someone else said with other intervals ie. maf, air filter ,pvc, breathers, catch cans etc. no reason to wait till it acts up to service it.
Especially as ridiculously easy as it is to do, and if it becomes a real problem , may leave you without .

[MercNasty]

Im going to do this to my car tomorrow after I buy some carb cleaner.

[boatmangc]

I use ValvTect Marine Motor De-Carb
Way more effective than carb cleaner IMHO.
You should be able to find it at a auto parts store, especially if you are close to water.

Here is their description of their product from their website.

http://www.valvtect.com/marineFuelAdditives.asp
Today's gasoline is very different than it was a few years ago. The burning quality and the addition of various chemicals have made it prone to leaving significant amounts of carbon deposits in hotter burning marine engines. If these deposits are not removed, they cause reduced engine performance and even powerhead failure, especially in large 2 cycle engines.

Marine Motor De-Carb provides quick, complete clean-up of carbon deposits, gum, and varnish that reduce engine power, performance, fuel economy, and cause powerhead failure.

Just one treatment removes carbon deposits to drastically improve engine power and performance. Spray directly into carburetor or air intake. For all 2 and 4 cycle engines. Use at the beginning of each season or every 100 hours of operation.

Just one treatment helps:

Coat internal engine parts
Prevent rust and corrosion
Long lasting
Prevent seizing
For all gasoline AND diesel engines
Available in 13 oz. spray can.

I buy it wholesale, and use it for cleaning injectors, carbs, IACs on 4 stroke outboards as well as spraying down the intake manifolds to remove carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
IACs get really whacked in outboard motors from the extended idle/low speed operation.
I am soaking 4 electric fuel pumps in it right now that are locked up after setting for 2+ years. they are worth $3K all together. They will free up after a couple of days soak.

I used this stuff instead of Seafoam to clean the IMRCs in my Mark 8 once a year.

[Bradley G]

I have never tried or even seen that product so I can not comment on how well it works.
The two dollar can of carb cleaner got the thing squeeky clean, but might be more corrosive/abbrasive that the stuff you have used.

I use ValvTect Marine Motor De-Carb
Way more effective than carb cleaner IMHO.
You should be able to find it at a auto parts store, especially if you are close to water.

Here is their description of their product from their website.

http://www.valvtect.com/marineFuelAdditives.asp
Today's gasoline is very different than it was a few years ago. The burning quality and the addition of various chemicals have made it prone to leaving significant amounts of carbon deposits in hotter burning marine engines. If these deposits are not removed, they cause reduced engine performance and even powerhead failure, especially in large 2 cycle engines.

Marine Motor De-Carb provides quick, complete clean-up of carbon deposits, gum, and varnish that reduce engine power, performance, fuel economy, and cause powerhead failure.

Just one treatment removes carbon deposits to drastically improve engine power and performance. Spray directly into carburetor or air intake. For all 2 and 4 cycle engines. Use at the beginning of each season or every 100 hours of operation.

Just one treatment helps:

Coat internal engine parts
Prevent rust and corrosion
Long lasting
Prevent seizing
For all gasoline AND diesel engines
Available in 13 oz. spray can.

I buy it wholesale, and use it for cleaning injectors, carbs, IACs on 4 stroke outboards as well as spraying down the intake manifolds to remove carbon deposits in the combustion chamber.
IACs get really whacked in outboard motors from the extended idle/low speed operation.
I am soaking 4 electric fuel pumps in it right now that are locked up after setting for 2+ years. they are worth $3K all together. They will free up after a couple of days soak.

I used this stuff instead of Seafoam to clean the IMRCs in my Mark 8 once a year.

[tbone]

Just like they said, it's super easy to get to .
Mine is mounted close to the throttle body, stock location is very similar .
Two 10 MM bolts hold it on, so a 3/8 ratchet , short extention , 10 MM socket are all the tools you need.
The Cleaner is your choice, I used carb cleaner and Q tips.
Oh, yeah I also used a small flat blade screwdriver to work the diaphram back and forth.
When I got mine off I looked at it under a big florescent ;
It really did not look all that bad, but when I sprayed the cleaner, holy double hockey sticks the stuff that came out was nasty.
I took three Q tips at a time and scoured the inside as best I could.
Three turns and a good rinse I threw it back on less than two minutes, it started as soon as it caught & ran spankie!!! no stalling and super smooth idle, no low tone honking noise either!
This is the first time I have performed this service on my car is seven has almost 105K this may not be considered routine maintenence like oil changes but like someone else said with other intervals ie. maf, air filter ,pvc, breathers, catch cans etc. no reason to wait till it acts up to service it.
Especially as ridiculously easy as it is to do, and if it becomes a real problem , may leave you without .

Nice write up Bradley. I'll do mine again soon like you describe.........:burnout:

[RF Overlord]

Phoebe now has 14x,xxx miles and I have never needed to clean the IAC. I did do the throttle body back in '07 when the pedal began to stick, but the IAC has never been off the car.

I do agree that having something so simple to fix cause members to panic when their cars won't start is not good. I'll get a sticky put up ASAP.

[Marauderjack]

I have never had any luck cleaning the Marauder IAC valve and if you get any oil or debris into the electrical side it will become sluggish and hang up!!:argue:

The last one I replaced I dissected and it is quite a complex little gadget.....and I think it has to work pretty fast so anything that slows it down renders it pretty much useless!!:shake:

I'd replace it if you think it is the problem!!:beer:

[EMAS]

Cleaning it every 4 months is probably a little excessive unless you've got a lot of blow-by at idle. Once a year is probably more than frequent enough for most.

[N40GL]

Brad: How about posting some pictures?

[MercNasty]

There are some videos on how to clean the IAC on youtube. I will be cleaning mine tomorrow.

[Marauderjack]

There are some videos on how to clean the IAC on youtube. I will be cleaning mine tomorrow.

Post up a link to a video if you will??:cool:

[ctrlraven]

I clean my IAC and MAF every six months with CRC Electronics Cleaner. It's the same exact stuff that's in the CRC MAF cleaner but a few bucks cheaper.

I probably won't have to clean my TB ever again after putting my oil catch can on. lol

[N40GL]

Post up a link to a video if you will??:cool:

I second that motion!

[Bradley G]

Well the car acted up again today, Mrs. BG claimed it took three tries to get it to stay running after work today.
The temps are down near single digits the display said 10 -12* at 6:30 pm today .
I suppose I should data log a cold start event and see whats what.

[CBT]

What the heck is a "sticky thread" and how is that any different than using the search function?

[EMAS]

What the heck is a "sticky thread" and how is that any different than using the search function?

Seriously, you've been here how long and never been here http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24 or here http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=98 or any one of the rest of the actual sub-forum pages?

And how it differs it that it prevents the need to use the search function for common problems. Many won't do a search and thus start the upmtenth thread about a particular problem which in turn makes the search function pretty much worthless when it returns a mind boggling amount of threads because the same thing is asked over and over and over again.

So it is different because it keeps the search function more useful. I am on other forums that the search function has become worthless because there are hundreds of threads asking the same darn thing because there aren't any stickies other than the "read this first". Of course that doesn't get read and the search function becomes more worthless every day.

Personally I think this forum has way too many stickies as it is and they all should be condensed to 1 locked thread that has links to pertinent threads with valid info on the various common issues.

[MercNasty]

I know im going to get bashed for the video being a camry but it was the best one i could find about cleaning the IAC the only thing that wasnt done in the video was the use of q-tips to swab out the gunc. If anybody finds a better vid please post it.






Post up a link to a video if you will??:cool:

[Marauderjack]

I know im going to get bashed for the video being a camry but it was the best one i could find about cleaning the IAC the only thing that wasnt done in the video was the use of q-tips to swab out the gunc. If anybody finds a better vid please post it.

Our IAC valve is very different than most and likes no lube or gunk.....thus I've had little luck cleaning but mine is functioning with a blower setup and it's way more temperamental!! :argue:

[CBT]

I had no idea what a sticky thread was whenever someone mentioned making one, I have learned something, thank you.


Seriously, you've been here how long and never been here http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=24 or here http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=98 or any one of the rest of the actual sub-forum pages?

And how it differs it that it prevents the need to use the search function for common problems. Many won't do a search and thus start the upmtenth thread about a particular problem which in turn makes the search function pretty much worthless when it returns a mind boggling amount of threads because the same thing is asked over and over and over again.

So it is different because it keeps the search function more useful. I am on other forums that the search function has become worthless because there are hundreds of threads asking the same darn thing because there aren't any stickies other than the "read this first". Of course that doesn't get read and the search function becomes more worthless every day.

Personally I think this forum has way too many stickies as it is and they all should be condensed to 1 locked thread that has links to pertinent threads with valid info on the various common issues.

[CBT]

Brad: How about posting some pictures?

How about one.

23462

[MercNasty]

Here is a better video,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQpPcdvSBks&feature=related

[MercNasty]

Thanks for posting the pic.




How about one.

23462

[Bradley G]

I replaced this today finally, the symptoms came back after a short while.
The range of prices (new) I found from $25-150.00
found OEM locally, for less than on line by $30.00
Idles better and the honking at idle also gone.

[justbob]

Check your fuel pressure Brad. I know you have a newer pump but check it anywho. Low pressure, even just under threshold will cause a delayed start/stall condition as well. This is what my problem was with the stock pump this time last year, easily diagnosed once it got worse with 100% FPDC at IDLE. At the time I didn't have a pressure tester. Hollar if you need help.

[BADMERC]

Good info here gentlemen. I have never had any luck cleaning my IAC. Replaced it twice now. I drive my MM once every six months or so. Can low fuel psi. do it? This makes me think about running a stock pump with a KB Boost a Pump.

[Bradley G]

Check your fuel pressure Brad. I know you have a newer pump but check it anywho. Low pressure, even just under threshold will cause a delayed start/stall condition as well. This is what my problem was with the stock pump this time last year, easily diagnosed once it got worse with 100% FPDC at IDLE. At the time I didn't have a pressure tester. Hollar if you need help.It always starts right away.When the IAC acts up, you need to keep you foot on the accel. to keep it running.


Good info here gentlemen. I have never had any luck cleaning my IAC. Replaced it twice now. I drive my MM once every six months or so. Can low fuel psi. do it? This makes me think about running a stock pump with a KB Boost a Pump.I was advised to run an in line catch can to reduce the vapors that infiltrate components like these.

[JBeezy]

I may go ahead and clean mine as maintenance. How much is this catch can setup and who to get one from?

[tbone]

Car won't start again. Cleaned the IAC but still a no go. Who has the best price on one of these?

[Bradley G]

I did not get this one, I got a Ford part but paid much more.http://http://www.theautopartsshop.com/auto+car-usa+parts/mercury+marauder+idle-air-control-valve.html
Car won't start again. Cleaned the IAC but still a no go. Who has the best price on one of these?