factory remote starter quit

[4play]

so today i atempter to start the car via remote and i got nothing. the lights light up it gos ding ding but the starter is not enguaging. So I took the starter box out annd checked all the fuses and they are all ok. i also checked the purple starter feed wire from the remote box and it is putting out power I also checked the solder conection it was ok too. the car starts normally with the key like it should, but the one thing i noticed is that the security light by the windshield flashes rapidly while the remote tries to crank the starter, but with the key it does not flash at all. At this point the battery is disconected, that is my last attempt, i'm totally out of ideas. does anyone else have any?

[ImpalaSlayer]

we dont have factory remoter start...

[4play]

well it dont say ford on it it's code system it's a black remote with a red and blue button on it. this remote starter is what ford used as it's remote starter option in 02-04 for sure on most their vehicals.

[EMAS]

Ford did offer a couple of different remote start systems in their accessories catalogs. Never messed with those, but it sounds like you have an issue with the PATS bypass system. The majority of those have you place a programed PATS key in their box and run an "antenna" wire that wraps around the ign cyl and picks up the PATS system "pinging" it and relays the response. So I'd open up the box and make sure the key hasn't shifted out of place and maybe follow that antenna wire up through the column. It may have rubbed through the insulation and is grounding out preventing it from recieving and/or transmitting. If you have access to the right scanner the PATS system will show an invalid key code. This is one place where using a cloned PATS key is a good idea then you can re-program the system with the key it was cloned from and file the clone so it won't turn the ign.

[4play]

I think your right. I went through the procedure to program a key after inserting the second key i removed it and hit the start button and the car started. but only the one time. after that it was flashing fast again and woud not start. tommrow i will check those wires but if those are ok what do you think, I need a new bypass box? also I dont think mine has a key box, it has a seperate module with two wires going up the column then from the pats module it plugs into the remote start box

[EMAS]

If there are 2 wires running up the column then yeah there is likely a key in that module that is connected to those 2 wires heading up the column.

If you have tried to add a key then yeah you're likely going to need to open up that box retrieve the key and see if it will turn the ign and go back through the add a key programing if it does, or get a existing key that does start the car cloned and put that in the PATS by-pass module. That way if you reprogram keys again, as long as you have the key it was cloned from, and reprogram the key that it was cloned from you won't have to mess with the key in the PATS by-pass module again.

[4play]

ok i replaced the pats modual aswell as the coil that goes around the ignition and it was working then it quit again.... idk.

[4play]

Anyone have a clue?

[Bigdogjim]

I have the same remote "Code A alarm" and Ford stop using them in '03 I think. Mine has been OK except the trunk does open with the button, no big deal.

Have you gone to the local Ford dealer?

[4play]

not yet. but when i put a key close to the ignition it the remote starter works fine. so for sure it's pats related.

[EMAS]

not yet. but when i put a key close to the ignition it the remote starter works fine. so for sure it's pats related.

You say you replaced the PATS module but did you put a programed key inside it? The PATS module just act as a remote relay system for a valid PATS key. It needs a valid signal to relay via that wire running up the column.

[larryo340]

You say you replaced the PATS module but did you put a programed key inside it? The PATS module just act as a remote relay system for a valid PATS key. It needs a valid signal to relay via that wire running up the column.

Most of the "factory" systems don't require a spare key to be left underdash...the PATS bypass module is programed to the original keys.

[fastblackmerc]

Most of the "factory" systems don't require a spare key to be left underdash...the PATS bypass module is programed to the original keys.

Correct. If you had to put a key in a module then it's not a "factory" system, may have been installed by a dealer, but not a factory system.

Most aftermarket systems need a spare key in a bypass module.

[Pops]

We do a lot of remote starts. These days we rarely use a hide a key box. The problem sounds like the module was not programmed with the other keys to me. They all need to be done at the same time.

[CBT]

so today i atempter to start the car via remote and i got nothing. the lights light up it gos ding ding but the starter is not enguaging. So I took the starter box out annd checked all the fuses and they are all ok. i also checked the purple starter feed wire from the remote box and it is putting out power I also checked the solder conection it was ok too. the car starts normally with the key like it should, but the one thing i noticed is that the security light by the windshield flashes rapidly while the remote tries to crank the starter, but with the key it does not flash at all. At this point the battery is disconected, that is my last attempt, i'm totally out of ideas. does anyone else have any?

You have answered your own question.

[EMAS]

We do a lot of remote starts. These days we rarely use a hide a key box. The problem sounds like the module was not programmed with the other keys to me. They all need to be done at the same time.

So how does the average DIY guy program the system to accept the signal from the by-pass module. The DIY programing requires the key being programed to turn the ign to the on position. Now if a scan tool that can "open" the security is used then yes you just have to have it hooked up and choose the "add a key" function that doesn't require the ign to be turned to the "on" position. Been through that mess a couple of times since the last few Ford products I and a friend have bought used came with only 1 key and we have an aftermarket scan tool with "full Ford factory function".

[4play]

So how does the average DIY guy program the system to accept the signal from the by-pass module. The DIY programing requires the key being programed to turn the ign to the on position. Now if a scan tool that can "open" the security is used then yes you just have to have it hooked up and choose the "add a key" function that doesn't require the ign to be turned to the "on" position. Been through that mess a couple of times since the last few Ford products I and a friend have bought used came with only 1 key and we have an aftermarket scan tool with "full Ford factory function".

stupid audiovox, figured out the problem. to answer your question basically you need 2 progrmed keys to program a 3rd, the pats module is the 3rd key. so the process is insert 1st key turn ignition on for 2 seconds, then insert the second key in for 2 seconds after removing the second key you activate the remote start. the car will start. but it will start in progam mode within 10 seconds of the vehical starting you need to depress the brake pedal. done, it's programed.. now the problem was "i should of caught it" but they plugged the harness into the pats module backwards, the conecters are the the same on both ends so the way is was supose to go is + & - go into the starter brain and into the Pats box, from the pats box there is 4 wires the two that go to the brain and another 2 that go to the antenna around the ignition. well i never checked, the wires were already plugged into the module so is was basically plug and play. i smelled something like burning wires after i installed it, but i was a weak smell never thought the antenna ring would burn to a crisp.. but today i took it apart and it did. after calling 1-800- ford-key, i was telling them how the antenna almost burnt up my car, they never heard of it ever happening before, they were describing the wires and where they should go and I was explaining to them no, mine's different, they said it cant be then I told the guy to hold on a second. I looked at the old harness which i left and compared it to the new harness and then realized te cap of the pats box opened poped it open and seen the plug then i realized the harness was backwards, both plug ends of the harness were 4 port so it plugged in either way. so who ever at audiovox assembled that piece plugged it in backwards, and it just plugged in fine so i never gave it another thought... told the guy what happened on the phone and he did not seem suprized and told me to call back tommrow and talk to the warrenty department. I called my local ford dealership told the parts guy that sold me the piece the story and he told me if they give you a hard tim tommrow we'll take care of it........ but because I have 3 keys and now 2 pats boxes programed to the car it's out of room for another box. and once you fill the spaces only ford can clear the memory. thats 80 bucks.... so i supose i'm going to have to pay for that.. we'll see. atleast the main brain didnt fry.