Oil Gauge - Is It the Cold Weather ?

[04MRADR]

:cool: We've had some unusually bitter cold here on the east coast and I noticed on the really cold mornings (say below 30 degrees or so) my oil gauge doesn't move for about 3 or 4 minutes and then comes up to normal. Once the temperature is about 30 or above the gauge comes right up to normal on start up. Is it just the super cold causing this or something else ? I drive the car over a hundred miles a day on most days and this has been going on for about two weeks. Plenty of oil in the engine and no knocking or valve tapping so it seems like somethings up with the gauge. Is it just the unusually bad cold or something else causing this ?:cool:

[CBT]

I've read about this, this is a serious issue. You need to:

A.) Put Marauder on blocks.
B.) Whack the ever living **** out of your oil pan with a 10lb sledgehammer until your arms are sore or you see crankshaft, whichever comes first.
C.) Send me your floormats.

I hope this helps :beer:

[RacerX]

Original gauge I take it? I'd install a real oil pressure gauge and sender for serious piece of mind.

[Blackened300a]

:cool: We've had some unusually bitter cold here on the east coast and I noticed on the really cold mornings (say below 30 degrees or so) my oil gauge doesn't move for about 3 or 4 minutes and then comes up to normal. Once the temperature is about 30 or above the gauge comes right up to normal on start up. Is it just the super cold causing this or something else ? I drive the car over a hundred miles a day on most days and this has been going on for about two weeks. Plenty of oil in the engine and no knocking or valve tapping so it seems like somethings up with the gauge. Is it just the unusually bad cold or something else causing this ?:cool:

Might just be a bad sender. Go with a real oil gauge and sender from autometer.

[fastblackmerc]

Original gauge I take it? I'd install a real oil pressure gauge and sender for serious piece of mind.


Might just be a bad sender. Go with a real oil gauge and sender from autometer.

What they said ^^^^^^^

Here are the PN's you need:

Replacement Gauges – Autometer (2 1/16)
Oil Pressure – 4327
Sending unit – 2242
Voltmeter – 4391

[massacre]

When the oil is cold, you should be seeing more pressure, not less. The pressure should be high at start-up(cold), then decrease as the oil heats up.

^^^^now, I'm saying this because I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge in my car, nothing electrical.
If you aren't hearing any irregular noises under the hood, and the oil level is fine, then I vote bad sender also.
You could hook up a mechanical gauge just to be sure that you're seeing proper pressure at start-up, and rule out anything serious.

[JOEMERC]

drain oil from pan ,start car see if it reads different,just kidding . I had a 2001 grand marquis and it did the same thing ,was a bad oil sending switch.

[J D]

What they said ^^^^^^^

Here are the PN's you need:

Replacement Gauges – Autometer (2 1/16)
Oil Pressure – 4327
Sending unit – 2242
Voltmeter – 4391

If it's an original stock guage, sorry but it's a glorified idiot light. It only points up at about 6 pounds of pressure. And since your engine is not a smoking heap from running without oil for 5 or 6 minutes, its a bad sender. When you change it, you might as well replace it with a real oil pressure gauge.

Word of warning though, the new gauge won't exactly match the color of the original as they were a one-off for our cars from Auto meter. If you want, this guy did an excellent writeup (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2993) of how to do the whole set up without losing the stock gauge face. It takes a bit of extra work, and a delicate hand to swap out the gauge guts, but I can say from experience that it was totally worth it.

Also, don't freak out when your new REAL gauge reads over 75 at start up, then falls to around 50 while driving, but then only reads around 15 or 20 when at idle after driving. That is how it is supposed to read. No-one's car actually has oil pressure that stays at 60PSI for the whole operation of the vehicle.

[fastblackmerc]

If it's an original stock guage, sorry but it's a glorified idiot light. It only points up at about 6 pounds of pressure. And since your engine is not a smoking heap from running without oil for 5 or 6 minutes, its a bad sender. When you change it, you might as well replace it with a real oil pressure gauge.

Word of warning though, the new gauge won't exactly match the color of the original as they were a one-off for our cars from Auto meter. If you want, this guy did an excellent writeup (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2993) of how to do the whole set up without losing the stock gauge face. It takes a bit of extra work, and a delicate hand to swap out the gauge guts, but I can say from experience that it was totally worth it.

Also, don't freak out when your new REAL gauge reads over 75 at start up, then falls to around 50 while driving, but then only reads around 15 or 20 when at idle after driving. That is how it is supposed to read. No-one's car actually has oil pressure that stays at 60PSI for the whole operation of the vehicle.

Replace both gauges at the same time or you will notice the slight difference between them, that's why I included the voltage gauge P/N.

I get 120 - 125 PSI when the oil is cold, around 15 - 20 PSI when hot at idle.

[jstevens]

Okay, so if I drive less than 3K miles, do I have to change the oil based on time?

[fastblackmerc]

Okay, so if I drive less than 3K miles, do I have to change the oil based on time?

Are you using synthetic?

[jstevens]

Yes, full.

[fastblackmerc]

Every 5k with a filter change.

Synthetics don't break down like dino juice does.

[Mr. Man]

I haven't looked in the box yet but I believe the sending unit comes with the 4327 oil gauge. I also bought the volt gauge as I don't want the hassle of swapping faceplate's.

[jstevens]

Every 5k with a filter change.

Synthetics don't break down like dino juice does.

Fastblackmerc, I appreciate your wisdom as well as the other members. I bought my car, got a full synthetic oil change but it hasn't been the mileage requirement. I got a full change done in Aug at 36000 miles but it is now Feb with 38000. Should I worry about it?

[CBT]

Fastblackmerc, I appreciate your wisdom as well as the other members. I bought my car, got a full synthetic oil change but it hasn't been the mileage requirement. I got a full change done in Aug at 36000 miles but it is now Feb with 38000. Should I worry about it?
I wouldn't worry about it.

[RF Overlord]

I got a full change done in Aug at 36000 miles but it is now Feb with 38000. Should I worry about it?It depends.

If most of those miles are short trips where the oil doesn't get to operating temperature for long enough, then you should change the oil once a year, regardless of mileage.

Short trips don't let the oil get hot enough to boil off condensation and the moisture combines with combustion blow-by to create acids.

[fastblackmerc]

It depends.

If most of those miles are short trips where the oil doesn't get to operating temperature for long enough, then you should change the oil once a year, regardless of mileage.

Short trips don't let the oil get hot enough to boil off condensation and the moisture combines with combustion blow-by to create acids.

What he said^^^^^^^^^^^

Get your MM out and drive it!!!!!!!!!!!!! :burnout:

[snigalfriz]

Where did you pickup your new gauges?

[SID210SA]

I wouldnt worry about it....since my Marauder has become a garage queen, I have had 2 oil changes in 2 years and the oil is still pretty clean and not broke down.

And I have the real guages purchased from Wes....but he is no longer in business, Get the real guages and you wont be disapointed!! They look awesome!!

[illwood]

I haven't looked in the box yet but I believe the sending unit comes with the 4327 oil gauge. I also bought the volt gauge as I don't want the hassle of swapping faceplate's.

Yes, the sending unit comes with the 4327 gauge. The part number for the sending unit is useful for when they wear out.


Where did you pickup your new gauges?

You can buy similar ones to stock from Summit:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4327/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4391/

Or go with the "Ultra-Lite IIs" with LED backlighting:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4927/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATM-4992/

I went with the Ultra-Lite IIs.

[vkirkend]

Okay, so if I drive less than 3K miles, do I have to change the oil based on time?

I would do an oil analysis to get a good gauge on what your oil changes need to be. I use Blackstone labs and they recommend 5000 mile changes on regular oil.

[SC Cheesehead]

I would do an oil analysis to get a good gauge on what your oil changes need to be. I use Blackstone labs and they recommend 5000 mile changes on regular oil.

^^^^^^ +1 ^^^^^^^

Much more accurate than time or mileage-based oil changes.

[RF Overlord]

I would do an oil analysis to get a good gauge on what your oil changes need to be. I use Blackstone labs and they recommend 5000 mile changes on regular oil.*SIGH* I wish those people who change synthetic oil every 3,000 mile would listen to this advice.