My dyno guy wants me to get this block. History/suggestions?

[FormulaMarauder]

Three pages of reading, but this thing seems pretty badass. 5.0L which shares same 4.6L deckheight. Super strong, pushing 1200hp on editors car. Also solves the problematic bad cooling issue.

Any thoughts?http://www.mustang50magazine.com/techarticles/m5lp_0803_frpp_mustang_block/index.html

Its called a Modular M6010 Boss50 and priced around $1,300 naked.

Thoughts?

[FordNut]

Mine works good.

[BODYMAN]

Great block! If I hadnt got a deal on my new MTR thats what I was gonna get.+1

[FormulaMarauder]

Mine works good.

Did you have to have any mods to blocks/heads, etc? Or is it a direct replacement? Any info you can give me would be super appreciated. What did you stuff it with?

[FordNut]

Have to? no. Since it's a big bore, of course it requires custom pistons and head gaskets. It has the Cobra bolt pattern on the timing cover, so the bottom two holes in the timing cover had to be drilled out for a bigger bolt.

I did a whole lot more. Stroker, custom rods, custom pistons, cryo everything, totally built heads...

[FordNut]

What I stuffed it with...
My preference for pistons was CP, they are custom made with raised wrist pins for my configuration with the stroker crank and longer rods (SB chevy length) which were also custom made billet pieces from Pauter. The rods are billet but I had them cryo treated too. If I had known at the time, I would have also gotten the piston wristpins offset from CL to reduce piston slap at cold startup. The pistons have teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated tops. All the main and rod bearings are teflon coated too. The crank is forged, then cryo treated and REM polished.

[Blackened300a]

If I had known at the time, I would have also gotten the piston wristpins offset from CL to reduce piston slap at cold startup.

I hate that noise, I have it in my engine as well.

[SpartaPerformance]

Great block! If you're going to pack on the power that is without a doubt a foundation worth investing in.

[burt ragio]

Piston slap on cold start up. What is the recomended tolerance piston to piston wall. What causes this to happen ?

[RacerX]

The only thing better would be the aluminum 5.0 block (M-6010-T50). Double the price though!

[J-MAN]

Is the piston slap issue enough to keep from stroking this block for street use?
How much "life" is given up on a street engine by stroking?

[RacerX]

Is the piston slap issue enough to keep from stroking this block for street use?
How much "life" is given up on a street engine by stroking?
PTW clearance, and offset wristpins should fix piston slap. In todays custom built engines, I think they'll last just as long as any engine as long as it's tuned properly.

[FormulaMarauder]

The only thing better would be the aluminum 5.0 block (M-6010-T50). Double the price though!

I just re-read the article. Appears as though they dont suggest aluminum if you are going over 500hp. I'm over that now, so it looks like that is out of the question. Right now Im at about 600flywheel hp on stock block. Borrowed time........

[SpartaPerformance]

I don't see an issue going with aluminum block over 500HP, it's going to get sleeved regardless.

[FordNut]

The reason for piston slap is forged pistons with forced induction. Forged pistons expand more than hyper pistons, so they naturally require more PTW clearance. Forced induction creates more heat than NA, so that causes more expansion also. The piston slap goes away after warmup, when the pistons expand. Offset wrist pins compensate by keeping the pistons from trying to rock.

No problem with a stroker crank on these blocks.

[J-MAN]

^^^^ Thanks, that's the info I was looking for.

[FormulaMarauder]

If I utilze flat top pistons and standard gasket thickness, where would the compression ratio be at? Remember, I'm blown now, will be pushing about 18psi and perhaps a 150 shot of nitrous happy gas.

[FordNut]

Probably too much. My bb/s has 16cc dished pistons and pushes 9.5:1 but I'm not sure with the big bore and standard stroke.