Very strange steering issue.

[Vortech347]

In the morning when its ass cold outside I start my MM and back up. I usually turn the wheels almost full lock pulling out onto the street. Its with the wheels to the right...

Well the driver front wheel will make this "THUMP THUMP" sound and literally the tire feels like its skipping and I can feel it through the car and steering wheel. Whats even stranger..... after I drive the car around the block, I can replicate the exact position, no thump.

Its kinda gotten a little worse and unlike my other MM, Untill the car is warmed up the steering has very little assist.

Whats the best way to flush these systems out with new fluid? Also which fluid should I use. I've heard ATF I've heard just normal "power steering fluid" I'll check the manual today but just wanted to get you're opinions.

Rack or pump? Either are going to be a pain to replace.

I checked tie rod ends/ball joints and they are fine. Alignment is good too.

Still haven't found that stupid mother %@!$ing start up squeal either. Still looking at the AC comp as the culprit.

[Dr Caleb]

I
Well the driver front wheel will make this "THUMP THUMP" sound and literally the tire feels like its skipping and I can feel it through the car and steering wheel. Whats even stranger..... after I drive the car around the block, I can replicate the exact position, no thump.

ROFLMAO. This is a common condition in cold weather. Speed rated tires are soft, so when they get cold, they freeze and have a 'flat' spot till they warm up. Happens with winter tires too, but not till about -45.

This is why I don't winter drive my Marauder. Snow tires don't come in sizes needed to clear both my brakes, and lowered front end.

[2,4shofast]

Its probably cause its Silver:banana:

[fastblackmerc]

I'd agree with the flat spot theory.

[Vortech347]

That makes complete sense. I'm driving on GT500 front (F1)'s and they aren't really happy with cold weather and are SOFT as hell. You can hear all the crap they throw up from the road. Not to mention I put them on middle of the summer and they are already to the wear bars with about 5k on them.

About the tight/*****y steering issue. Whats the easiest way to do a full flush on the system? Drove the car all day today and its totally fine at operating temp but before then, good lord its tight.

[fastblackmerc]

I'd remove the PS reservoir, unscrew the cap, empty it in a drain pan, refill, start the car, turn steering wheel from lock to lock a few time, repeat 3 or 4 times.

[Fourth Horseman]

The shop manual recommends the following: put the car in the air and then unhook the return line from the reservoir and add an extension hose to it so that you can bring it out of the engine bay and into a bucket. Also cap the port on the bottom of the reservoir where the return hose hooked up. Then pull the fuel pump fuse so that you can crank the engine in short bursts. While you crank it, no more than a second or two, turn the steering wheel, eventually going from stop to stop. You'll need to have somebody outside the vehicle pouring new, clean ATF into the reservoir so that it never runs dry. When the fluid coming out is clean red fluid you're done. Hook everything back up and re-install your fuel pump fuse.

I've done this with my Marauder once. It's kind of a PITA, but it does make sure you get all the dirty old fluid out. Otherwise you can use a fluid evacuation pump to just remove fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Start the car up, let it idle while you turn the wheel back and forth a few times. Shut down, drain and refill the reservoir. After a few cycles of this you should have most of the old fluid replaced. It's easier this way, but less efficient.

[babbage]

The shop manual recommends the following: put the car in the air and then unhook the return line from the reservoir and add an extension hose to it so that you can bring it out of the engine bay and into a bucket. Also cap the port on the bottom of the reservoir where the return hose hooked up. Then pull the fuel pump fuse so that you can crank the engine in short bursts. While you crank it, no more than a second or two, turn the steering wheel, eventually going from stop to stop. You'll need to have somebody outside the vehicle pouring new, clean ATF into the reservoir so that it never runs dry. When the fluid coming out is clean red fluid you're done. Hook everything back up and re-install your fuel pump fuse.

I've done this with my Marauder once. It's kind of a PITA, but it does make sure you get all the dirty old fluid out. Otherwise you can use a fluid evacuation pump to just remove fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Start the car up, let it idle while you turn the wheel back and forth a few times. Shut down, drain and refill the reservoir. After a few cycles of this you should have most of the old fluid replaced. It's easier this way, but less efficient.

Well said. I saw these small hand pumps at harbor freight for $4 that are perfect for changing PS fluid. The Lucas ps fluid really worked well, pump was made quiet. I will do mine again in spring.



Lucas Oil Power Steering Fluid w/Conditioners

Lucas Power Steering Fluid with Conditioners is formulated with the finest base oils and a special Lucas additive package that outperforms all others, providing smooth, quiet operation while conditioning seals to prevent leaks.

Key Benefits


● Improves steering response and feel
● Extends life of pumps, rack and pinion gears, seals, cylinders and valves
● Compatible with all power steering systems and fluids, petroleum or synthetic
● Stops fading and foaming in high performance situations
http://www.lucasoil.com/images/products/2536DB751E7ED0BD72BB1135968507 63.gif


Use This ^^^Stuff

[Vortech347]

The shop manual recommends the following: put the car in the air and then unhook the return line from the reservoir and add an extension hose to it so that you can bring it out of the engine bay and into a bucket. Also cap the port on the bottom of the reservoir where the return hose hooked up. Then pull the fuel pump fuse so that you can crank the engine in short bursts. While you crank it, no more than a second or two, turn the steering wheel, eventually going from stop to stop. You'll need to have somebody outside the vehicle pouring new, clean ATF into the reservoir so that it never runs dry. When the fluid coming out is clean red fluid you're done. Hook everything back up and re-install your fuel pump fuse.

I've done this with my Marauder once. It's kind of a PITA, but it does make sure you get all the dirty old fluid out. Otherwise you can use a fluid evacuation pump to just remove fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with clean fluid. Start the car up, let it idle while you turn the wheel back and forth a few times. Shut down, drain and refill the reservoir. After a few cycles of this you should have most of the old fluid replaced. It's easier this way, but less efficient.

Alright sounds just like what I did on the fox last week.

[Blackened300a]

I pulled the belt and the clamp off the return line on the pump, then I turned the pump by hand and drained it all into a bucket. Replaced with new fluid and called it a day. I found that the easiest way.

[Vortech347]

If this pulley/pump is like my fox I'll just use a bolt and air ratchet to turn it. :)

[RF Overlord]

I pulled the belt and the clamp off the return line on the pump, then I turned the pump by hand and drained it all into a bucket. Replaced with new fluid and called it a day. I found that the easiest way.I was going to second the "turkey-baster" method, but I like Paul's idea better, at least for an initial change. Do what he says above, then use the turkey-baster every other oil change or so to keep that "fresh as a daisy" feeling.

[BUCKWHEAT]

If the front end flush/fill doesn't work, consider whether you have the wrong LSD friction modifier in the rear....