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wickedmerc
03-19-2011, 12:40 PM
Alright folks, many of you have offered opinions and feedback for me (and others) before, so again I reach out to y'all....

Replacing my MM engine. Thanks to tons of help from Blackened300A, I pretty much know the "where", "how" and rough "when" that will happen. I now need to decide on the "what" to be installed.

I'm looking at 2 reman long blocks...1 from a MM, 1 from a Mach 1 (Aluminator is not an option). Both said to be completely redone with new machining and internals back to OEM specs. When all is said and done, the Mach 1 engine will come out about $750 more. The Mach 1 motor comes with a better warranty and it has a forged crank (manual trans car). I have no racing plans but I do like to drive spirited. Mods will be kept to simple bolt-ons and a tune.

The questions:
A) Is a Mach 1 engine considered superior/more desirable or would I be wasting $750 since the performance difference would be insignificant?
B) Do I want to pay $750 for "potential" I'll probably never tap into with the forged crank?....but maybe someone could in the future?
C) If I should I sell some day, which engine do you think would hurt/help resale, if any?

Let's hear it..........

Blackened300a
03-19-2011, 12:51 PM
The Mach 1 motor comes with a better warranty and it has a forged crank (manual trans car). I have no racing plans but I do like to drive spirited. Mods will be kept to simple bolt-ons and a tune.

The questions:
A) Is a Mach 1 engine considered superior/more desirable or would I be wasting $750 since the performance difference would be insignificant?


Nobody here ever broke a cast crank even using boost or NOS. You can use that $750 for a new dyno tune at JDM when its all complete. You are basically buying a extra warranty for $750. If something is going to fail, it will be within the Warranty period of the MM engine. Basically both engines are the exact same besides the crank and I already pointed out why its not necessary. Anytime you are ready, Ill notify my guy to make room and arrange to get your car down here.

SC Cheesehead
03-19-2011, 01:10 PM
+1 on the crank.

Rods and pistons are the weak link in the motor, not the crank.

Pat
03-19-2011, 01:45 PM
+2 on the above.

SpartaPerformance
03-19-2011, 01:56 PM
+3 on discussion.

Krytin
03-19-2011, 02:02 PM
+4 unless you're installing a manual transmission at the same time!

musclemerc
03-19-2011, 02:20 PM
Are you sure the manual crank has the same number of holes as the auto for the flexplate? Which is 6 bolt/ 8bolt?

ImpalaSlayer
03-19-2011, 02:35 PM
Are you sure the manual crank has the same number of holes as the auto for the flexplate? Which is 6 bolt/ 8bolt?

99% sure the manual machs use the 8 bolt pattern

Mr. Man
03-19-2011, 06:44 PM
I was under the impression they were the same thing. I'd go for the less expensive one of those two choices but if I were doing a swap I'd go with a Terminator block. Good luck:)

LANDY
03-19-2011, 06:50 PM
99% sure the manual machs use the 8 bolt pattern yup 150% manual cranks are forged 8 bolts.:D

RacerX
03-19-2011, 06:51 PM
+5 On the MM refurb.
The crank is an 8 bolt in a manual.

Odinson
03-19-2011, 07:31 PM
side track: Am I understanding this right that a Mach 1 manual transmission is a bolt up to MM engines?

I thought that was a fairly exotic mod.

SpartaPerformance
03-19-2011, 09:27 PM
side track: Am I understanding this right that a Mach 1 manual transmission is a bolt up to MM engines?

I thought that was a fairly exotic mod.

Kind of, the only thing you'll need is an 8 bolt flex plate. Forged crank has 8 bolt cast has 6, other then that you're golden. It's not really a "mod" being both engines produce the same power, if I'm not mistaken they are identical.

LANDY
03-19-2011, 10:26 PM
if you are set on a stock replacement i wouldnt go the extra mile for the manual mach 1 engine. the cast crank is not the weakest point on our bottom ends, is the pistons and rods you have to worry about.

burt ragio
03-20-2011, 06:50 AM
I would buy a moped add some bling and call it a day.

rayjay
03-20-2011, 09:21 AM
If you can replace the oil pump on the new engine with a Melling before it is installed do it. That pump is the real weak link in our engines. Severe detonation can cause it to fail and before you are aware of it the engine is toast. One bad tank of gas and a WOP throttle run could equal bye, bye engine.

wickedmerc
03-20-2011, 08:08 PM
If you can replace the oil pump on the new engine with a Melling before it is installed do it. That pump is the real weak link in our engines. Severe detonation can cause it to fail and before you are aware of it the engine is toast. One bad tank of gas and a WOP throttle run could equal bye, bye engine.

Thanks rayjay, that's good advice. I got a few bucks in Summit gift cards...I'll look into that. :up:

RacerX
03-21-2011, 07:19 AM
One bad tank of gas and a WOP throttle run could equal bye, bye engine.
WTH??? You got something against Italians behind the wheel???

Chevyguy
03-21-2011, 08:04 AM
Kind of, the only thing you'll need is an 8 bolt flex plate. Forged crank has 8 bolt cast has 6, other then that you're golden. It's not really a "mod" being both engines produce the same power, if I'm not mistaken they are identical.

One can fit a 6 bolt Flywheel from a Manual trans 2V mustang if you want a Manual trans in your Maurauder, or fit a F-150 type 8 bolt flexplate if you want a auto trans behind a Windsor crank Engine (Aluiminator, Terminator or Mach 1 Manual)

One can get aftermarket forged Romeo cranks with the 6 bolt pattern which are better than the OEM Ford Windsor 8 bolt unit. Again as mentioned the cast crank is not an actual weak spot anyways...

rayjay
03-21-2011, 09:22 AM
WTH??? You got something against Italians behind the wheel???

Can't type for sheeat, meant WOT. :o

Dragcity
03-21-2011, 09:37 AM
Thanks for clearing that up Ray, I was almost offended... almost.

RacerX
03-21-2011, 12:19 PM
Can't type for sheeat, meant WOT. :o
I know...:D I'm Irish, Scotch, English, Dutch, Austrian and whatever else jumped the fence anyway!:beer: