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04-13-2011, 06:09 PM
I wanted to start a thread with pictures of my parts and a writeup on how to install them.

Musclemerc Basic Skidplate Kit $50.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

The kit includes a Budget Bumpersag Fix and a Musclemerc Basic Skidplate
Here is a pic of the parts included in the kit:


The bumpersag fix:

How to install:
Unpack all the hardware and hang the main support through the existing hole in the center of the bumper then use the bottom plate as a template to drill the 3 holes through the bumper cover


After you drill the holes go ahead and mount the bottom plate and secure the hardware. Do not overtighten the bolts going through the bumper, remember it's only urethane


Next, prepare to install the skidplate. First you must remove the 2 screws holding the rear cover in place.


Then you have to remove the 2 nuts holding the emmissions box in place under the trunk


Now you just slide the skidplate between the bumper and bracket where the 2 screws came from. Then slide it between the trunk and emmissions box.
Keep everything loose until all the hardware is inplace then tighten everything down.

This is what the finished product looks like:


DONE! :beer:

04-13-2011, 06:53 PM
Musclemerc's Deluxe Skidplate $80.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

This kit is the deluxe version of my basic skidplate kit.

The deluxe kit comes with everything needed to keep your skidplate quiet. The bumpersag fix has a hook that holds the skidplate down from the top and includes custom brackets that keep the sides from flapping around

Here is a pic of the Deluxe Skidplate:


The edge of the Deluxe is rolled to stiffen the sidewall and accomodate the bracket:


Here is a pic of the Deluxe Bumpersag Fix bracket:
This keeps the center of the skidplate in place by appling pressure from the top.


The installation is the same as with the basic kit but you need to do a few extra steps.

The skidplate brackets tie into the tailpipe hangers so you will need a 1/2" ratchet wrench to do the job.


This is a pic of the bracket installed:


04-13-2011, 07:12 PM
Musclemerc's Catch Can $130.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

The cans are available in 3 colors polished aluminum, anadized blue, and anadized red.


Pic of the can with the lid off:


Pic of the washable filter element:


The kits are designed to work flawless on a N/A, Trilogy, or Eaton Swap Marauder

The N/A and Trilogy kits come with prebent pcv hardlines, the Eaton Swap kit comes with a reinforced rubber hose that will not collapse under vacum

N/A kit installed:


Installation Instructions for the N/A kit:

1) Remove your old pcv hardline allong with all the with the rubber grommets.

2) Take the template and place it 1/4"" from the top of the recess in the wheel liner. Be sure to put it dead center. Drill 2 holes just big enough to fit the mounting screws. *If you cant fit a drill then a pocket knife will also work*

3) Place the mounting hardware in this order. The bolt, a star washer, the wheel liner, another star washer, then the flat washer. Now, go ahead and mount the can. *please use all the washers included*

4) Place the rubber hose over the pcv valve then connect the other end to the pcv connector on the catch can. *the connector is labled PCV*

5) Put a dab of vasoline inside the hose marked intake. Look at the orientation for the upper hose and keep the TOP in the correct position. This will take some work the fitting is gonna be tight.
*use a hair dryer to heat the hose to make it easy*

6) Install the other end of the upper hose to the fitting marked intake.

7) Place the tywraps on all the hoses and rotate the head so it is not in plain sight

To service: If the tube on the side of the can shows any oil build up loosen the drainplug at the bottom of the can and empty it.

Once a year you can use an allen key and remove the top of the can and soak the filter element in a degreaser then rinse and allow to air dry.

****If the lid is opened then you must reseal it!
Remove the old silicone off both pieces. Apply a thin layer of 100% silicone to both pieces. Allow them to dry "tacky". Use a toothpick to open all the screw holes and the openings on the lid. Then tighten as you would a valve cover, two at a time****

Here is a pic of a Trilogy Kit Installed:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y185/Drewstang/utf-8BSU1HMDAyODItMjAxMTAzMTMtMjM1 Ni5qcGc.jpg

Trilogy Installation Instructions:

1) Take the template out and place the top drill hole 1/4" from the top of the shock tower recess. Drill through the template. You can also use a small pocket knife to pierce through the fenderwell **test fit the can for clearance against the Trilogy SC reservoir**

2) Place the hardware in this order. The bolt, a star washer, the fender well, star washer, SS flat washer, then to the catch can. Now you can install the catch can.... **Take your time and dont lose the hardware**

3) Use the supplied hoses and connect to the pcv valve and then to the catch can **The hoes ends are marked**.
Please use the supplied tywraps to secure the hose connections. ** Try to orient the head of the tywrap so it is out of plain

4) Install the SC hardline to the catch can

5) Mark and remove the Trilogy steel pcv hardline. The cut line is marked on the hose from the kit. Cut the Trilogy hardline, connect it the rubber hose and tywrap it to the Trilogy hardline.

**Make sure you remove the hardline and cut it flush, then run a file inside to remove any burrs**

To service: Every few oil changes unscrew the drain plug from the bottom of the can.
Once a year remove the lid, soak the filter element in a good degreaser, rinse and let it air dry.

NOTE: ****I seal the cap with 100% silicone if you open the cap remove the old silicone, put on a new coat to both the lid and the top of the can. Let it dry "tacky" before joing the two together****

Here is a pic of an Eaton Swap kit:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 631&d=1295525938 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 631&d=1295525938)

Eaton Swap Installation Instructions:

You will need:
Ford EV-111 pcv valve
*optional* 03~04 Cobra CAI to cam cover hose

1) Install the EV-111 pcv valve on the DS cam cover. Orient the pcv valve towards the master cylinder

2) Place the template 1/4" from the top of the shock tower and drill the two holes. If you cant fit a drill use a small pocket knife. Place the hardware in this order on the the bolt. A star washer, the fender well, star washer, flat washer, then to the catch can.
Go ahead and mount the can.
**Be sure not to lose any hardware or overtighten the bolts**

3) Route the hoses like the one in the pic. Look at the bottom hose, both will follow this route, let the S/C hose exit the top of the master cylinder like in the pic too.

4) Connect to the pcv valve and to the S/C and then use the tywrap's to secure the hose ends
*please orient the tywrap heads so they are not in plain sight*

On to the PS:

If you have the stock Cobra hose and 90* fittings go ahead and hook it up, your done. Use this pic for refrence of the CAI hose and cam cover fitting

http://image.mustangmonthly.com/f/9435025/173_0306_5z+2003_Ford_Mustang_ Cobra+Engine.jpg

If you do not have these hoses then do the following: You will need a heat gun.

1)With the stock MM pcv valve inplace on the PS cam cover heat the 90* connector up and pull it off.

2) Remove the two bolts on the cover and remove the stock pcv valve and grommet. Place it in a vice an drill it from the top to "gut" the inside of it. **remove as much material as you can**

3)Reheat the stock 90* and reinstall it.

4)Relpace the parts back to the PS cam cover.

5)Place a piece of hose from the gutted pcv valve to the CAI tube.
19/32" hose is recommended but 5/8" will also work.

**I send the cans out with the cap installed, If you open the can please remove all the silicone and reapply a thin coat to both the cap and the lid of the can. Let it dry tacky then remove the silicone from the holes in the cap and the screw holes in the lid. Then tighten as you would a valve cover (2 at a time)**

Service: To service the can remove the drain plug and drain.

Once yearly you can soak the filter element in a good degreaser, rinse, allow to air dry then reinstall lid acording to the instructions.

04-13-2011, 07:34 PM
Musclemerc's Upper and Lower Control Arms
$225.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

The C/As are available in 3 colors black, red, and silver. They are made by welding 2 sets of stock components together and are fully boxed in for added strength.
**I require your stock parts to be returned to me so I can continue offering these to the membership**


Installed on a MM:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 643&d=1295577112 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 643&d=1295577112)

Compared to stock:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 640&d=1295576819 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 640&d=1295576819)

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 638&d=1295576819 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 638&d=1295576819)

04-13-2011, 08:23 PM
3" Fuel Filter Upgrade $60.00 plus 4% paypal fees

The kit comes with everything needed to do this mod.
GATES 100% submersible/E-85 compliant fuel line, double up fuel injection clamps, a 3" fuel filter, SS 3" band clamp, and a piece of rubberized foam for insulation.


Here is a comparison to the stock filter:

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 671&d=1295811115 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=23 671&d=1295811115)

Installation tips:
**Do not cut any factory hardlines to install this kit. The lines get bent straight with a small boxed wrench**

Cut the stock plastic lines off with a razor knife, and remove the stock filter and bracket.
You will need to bend the stock bracket open to accept the larger diameter filter, then go ahead and install the new 3" filter and point the arrow towards the front of the car.
I chose to bend the line in front of the filter for better flow, to do this I used a small boxed in wrench that just fit over the line and took my time, you do not want to kink it.
You also want to make sure when you install the FI clamps you put them before and after the high spot in the line


04-14-2011, 11:54 AM
Gods Head Stencil $20.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

This is the original design from Matt-in-Detroit it's approx. 16" wide
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=21 321&d=1277049169

Installation tips:
Remove the liner and spray it with a few coats of flat black paint to make the liner look like new. Next, use thumbtacks to hold the stencil in place.

If you want a custom background: get a large circle cutter and make cardboard blanks. Spray the background with a few light coats, then let it dry completely before painting the stencil.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 665&d=1271550430 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 665&d=1271550430)

Here is another pic of the background.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 661&d=1271550430 (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=19 661&d=1271550430)

If you broke off any of the factory retainer clips then you can go to your local FLAPS and get Dorman Products – PN#45713 this is a pack of 3 retainer clips. The liner has 12 retainer clips total

04-24-2011, 01:54 PM
Proguard Bracket Kit $40.00 shipped plus 4% paypal fees

3-Brackets are included with the kit. 1) Deluxe bumpersag fix. 2) L&R End brackets

If you have a Proguard these are must have brackets. They stop the annoying noise caused by the Proguard flapping in the around against the tailpipes. The bumpersag fix has a reversed hook to hold down the Proguard in the center from the top.
The end result is a quiet, chatter free rear end.


These brackets install the same as my Deluxe Skidplate Kit.
First thing is to notch the Proguard in the center to allow for clearance past the bumpersag bracket.

You will need a drill with a small bit to predrill the holes for the mounting hardware that connects the Proguard to the bracket base