Real Autometer Oil Gauge - another write up

[babbage]

Ok I finally got this installed. Did some searches and found some old threads that seemed overly complicated. Here is the quick writeup.



Pull gauge pod down, start at the wings in the back and pull down and forward at same time.
Disconnect wires and seperate gauge pod from dash.
Install new oil gauge - switch the blubs and backround if you want.
Reconnect wires and reinstall gauge pod.
Go under car - disconnect fake sender connector and cut it off close to the end of the end connector. It's right near the oil filter and quite tiny compared to the real 100 PSI Sender.
Slide on some heat shrink tubing on to the wire - crimp on small ring terminal add a dab of elec. grease -- heat up to shrink/seal (did have to drill out ring terminal (enlarge) to be bigger first)
Put teflon tape on the Autometer real sending unit.
Unthread factory "fake" sending unit. (will loose 1/3 QT oil - let it drain)
Thread in new Auto Meter 100psi sending unit - where you removed factory fake sender from
Attach wire with ring terminal onto new sender unit - tighten down.

DONE

Works great - at full temp idle pressure reading is about 24lbs, cold is about 75-80 idle. About 75-90 when hot at WOT.

Kudos to Racer X who sold me his mint old one. How did I live without this before?

[RacerX]

:D You're welcome! :burnout: Great piece of mind, isn't it!

[fastblackmerc]

Missed one step.

Move the gearshift out of PARK (P).

[Mr. Man]

I have both gauges to do this summer. Can you get to the oil sending unit w/o lifting the car? I may need to sweet talk my mechanic with a case of beer to borrow his lift.:lol:

[fastblackmerc]

I have both gauges to do this summer. Can you get to the oil sending unit w/o lifting the car? I may need to sweet talk my mechanic with a case of beer to borrow his lift.:lol:

You can get at it if you can jack up the left front of the car.

[Got_1]

at hot idle i'm only showing about 15-18psi. hmmm

[fastblackmerc]

at hot idle i'm only showing about 15-18psi. hmmm

That's about right. Cold I bet your over 100psi.

Cold I'm alomost at 125psi. Hot at idle it's a little under 25psi.

[Got_1]

cold idle is around 85-90. It has never pegged at 100 before

[thathotrodlincn]

Word of caution. While Teflon tape will go far to preventing leaks, the "real"sensor is a ground seeking device, and the Teflon tape can interfere with the ground. Some nickle anti-seeze generally does not interfere with the ground, and allows a very tight installation which will usually not leak. Something to think about.

[fastblackmerc]

Word of caution. While Teflon tape will go far to preventing leaks, the "real"sensor is a ground seeking device, and the Teflon tape can interfere with the ground. Some nickle anti-seeze generally does not interfere with the ground, and allows a very tight installation which will usually not leak. Something to think about.

Never had an issues with teflon tape on sending units. I suppose too much tape could cause a problem.

[RF Overlord]

Me neither...

[thathotrodlincn]

I did not mean to imply that the Teflon was always a problem. However, I have seen it as a problem in sensitive eituations. It is just one more thing to check when troubleshooting an errant gauge problem.

[mnxtrik8r]

What # gauge did you use? Did it come with the sending unit? Thanks.

[ctrlraven]

I didn't know it was that simple until as of late. I thought all new wires had to be ran. lol

I think I saw be picking one up here very soon cause I need to get an oil change done before going to the track and I can kill two birds with one stone this way.

[fastblackmerc]

What # gauge did you use? Did it come with the sending unit? Thanks.

Replacement Gauges – Autometer (2 1/16)
Oil Pressure – 4327
Sending unit – 2242
Voltmeter – 4391

You will want to replace both gauges. Although they are close to the originals if they are side by side you will notice the difference.

[CBT]

Nerds......
Just kidding, where are the pics?

[ctrlraven]

Replacement Gauges – Autometer (2 1/16)
Oil Pressure – 4327
Sending unit – 2242
Voltmeter – 4391

You will want to replace both gauges. Although they are close to the originals if they are side by side you will notice the difference.
Is there a sending unit for the Voltmeter gauge or is just plug and play? Also is the reason for changing it simply because to match the oil gauge or does it actually read more accurate? Most of the oil gauges I have seen come with the sending unit already.

[fastblackmerc]

Is there a sending unit for the Voltmeter gauge or is just plug and play? Also is the reason for changing it simply because to match the oil gauge or does it actually read more accurate? Most of the oil gauges I have seen come with the sending unit already.

The oil pressure sending unit comes with the gauge. I just included it here is case someone needs a replacement.

The voltmeter is a direct replacement for the OEM gauge.

There are subtle difference in the gauge faces and the "real" gauges have "perimeter" lighting as opposed to the "thru the face" lighting on the OEM gauges.

If you replace one gauge the differences will be apparent especially at night, that's why I recommended replacing both.

You should also replace the incandescent bulbs with green LED bulbs. When you take out the gauge pod look at the top of gauge housing, you'll see a brown spot caused by the heat from the incandescent bulb. LEDs generate almost no heat.

[ctrlraven]

Yeah I've replaced my bulbs before but I'll be going with all white LEDs which I'll order next week probably.

[fastblackmerc]

Yeah I've replaced my bulbs before but I'll be going with all white LEDs which I'll order next week probably.

White LEDs will give the gauges a white light. If you use the blue bulb condoms the light will be blue (white + blue = blue). The reason the incandescent bulbs look green with the blue bulb condoms is because the incandescent light is yellow and yellow + blue = green.

[RacerX]

BTW! This was a CUSTOM gauge I made! The faceplate, indicator hand and bezel are stock MM. It takes some very steady hands and patience to do the gauge I sold Eric. This way it keeps stock MM apearance completely and actually works! ;)

[ctrlraven]

White LEDs will give the gauges a white light. If you use the blue bulb condoms the light will be blue (white + blue = blue). The reason the incandescent bulbs look green with the blue bulb condoms is because the incandescent light is yellow and yellow + blue = green.
I know I want white light, changing all 194 bulbs in the car over to them.

[ctrlraven]

Which wires are which connecting off the factory plug to the gauge? Have to cut them and put on crimps. I don't know which is ground, sender and ign (12v turn on).

Any help would be great, thanks.

[fastblackmerc]

Which wires are which connecting off the factory plug to the gauge? Have to cut them and put on crimps. I don't know which is ground, sender and ign (12v turn on).

Any help would be great, thanks.

Using a test light should tell you which is power & ground.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the ground is the black (BK) wire and the power is the red & yellow (RD/YE) wire. The white & red (WH/RD) go to the oil pressure switch.

[ctrlraven]

Using a test light should tell you which is power & ground.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the ground is the black (BK) wire and the power is the orange & black (OG/BK) wire. The white & red (WH/RD) go to the oil pressure switch.
Thank you good sir! I used my test light and it lit up on the white/red and orange/black with the key on so I wasn't sure which was power and to the oil sender unit.

[RacerX]

There's four wires. Ground, sender, ign power, light power. I forget the colors, but, as said, a volt meter and turning your lights on will tell you that one. If someone doesn't chime in by the time I get home tonight, I'll post up the colors...:beer:

[ctrlraven]

I just realized I have Black, White/Red and Red/Yellow wires. I'm going to guess the Red/Yellow wire is for the power (12v).

I'm using the wires after the white plug and not before it.

[RacerX]

??? Should be two hots, 1-12v lights, 1-12v ignition switch, 1-ground (splits to two after white plug) and then 1 for sender... 4 ???

[fastblackmerc]

Sorry, my mistake.

The oragne & black (OG/BK) wires are for the lights.

The red & yellow (RD/YE) is for power to the gauges.

The white & red (WH/RD) wire comes from the sending unit.

The black (BK) is still the ground.

[ctrlraven]

And one more question.... lol

I haven't gotten under car yet and don't have any telfon tape (getting some from the shop next door) does the new 100 psi sender unit use the 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT fitting?

[fastblackmerc]

??? Should be two hots, 1-12v lights, 1-12v ignition switch, 1-ground (splits to two after white plug) and then 1 for sender... 4 ???

There are four different wires to the gauges in the center pod.

RD/YE = power (+) to the gauges from the central junction box

OG/BK = power to the bulbs (Illumination)

WH/RD = from the oil pressure sender

Bk = ground (-)

[fastblackmerc]

And one more question.... lol

I haven't gotten under car yet and don't have any telfon tape (getting some from the shop next door) does the new 100 psi sender unit use the 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT fitting?

If I remember correctly it just screwed in. I'll go check.

[RacerX]

And one more question.... lol

I haven't gotten under car yet and don't have any telfon tape (getting some from the shop next door) does the new 100 psi sender unit use the 1/8 NPT or 1/4 NPT fitting?
They come with both! ;) You just take the adapter off and in it goes!

[ctrlraven]

They come with both! ;) You just take the adapter off and in it goes!
Yeah that's why I asked cause it has the 1/4 NPT adater fitting already on it and wasn't sure if it needed it or not. Thank you.

[fastblackmerc]

Checked, couldn't really see anything and not going to jack up the car since it's raining.......

I think it just screwed in no adapter / reducer needed.

Just use one or two wraps of teflon tape.

I soldered the ring terminal on the stock wire and sealed it with heat shrink tubing for a long lasting connection.

Don't over tighten the nut on the stud. If it breaks off you may need another sending unit. I used a small drop of Lock-Tite and a lock washer.

[RF Overlord]

I seem to remember it needing an adapter...either way, it comes with everything you need.

[ctrlraven]

It does require the 1/4 NPT adapter that is supplied with the gauge.

It requires a 15mm or 9/16 for tightening on the adapter.
Sender ring terminal wire hookup requires a 3/8 for tightening on the sender.
http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/224809_1511769132722_178921202 9_924037_6486134_n.jpg


Now I think it's a complete write-up. lol

[babbage]

Cool, so does your work?

[ctrlraven]

Yep, sitting between 75-80 cold idle.

[RacerX]

Beauteous Maximus! Couldn't remember what size it was... gettin old! :D

[MOTOWN]

after installing my tripple gauge pod, ill be ordering "real" oil, and voltmeter gauges as there is a big difference in appearence! i like the perimeter lighting over the thru the dail lighting of the fake gauges.