Low Cylinder Compression!!

[wwdogs]

My 2004 MM with an Alternative Automotive Program and a K& N Air Charger has just been determined to have LOW conperssion on vylider #5 (40-lbs!), and also low on #6.

I have benn advisde that the engine requires replacement - nutz! The car has only 79,000 miles and has never had ANY problems. It is now idling rough, which is why I had the engine checked. I was also told it may have a broken valve spriing or a burnt valve. My mechanic does not want to work on this, even though he is a certified Ford mechanic, and has supposedly work on several Marauders???

Any comments or recommendation?

[guspech750]

Needs replacement. Hmmm. Well I would spring for an aluminator with a Whipple. But I am guessing that's not what you want to hear.
Sent from my iPhone
Go White Sox!!!

[musclemerc]

If your mechanic is truly a Ford tech the swap should'nt be a problem.
Your in Nashville, if you cant get anyone local to help you then maybe I can, I'm in MS

[RacerX]

Could even be just a couple of loose valve seats.

[MMBLUE]

Sounds like the same problem I had.:mad2:

[Dennis Reinhart]

First of all I would do a cylinder leak down before doing any thing, and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block, cylider 5&6 could be a head gasket or a bad head, again a leak down test is the proof you need, call me any time if I can help.

[boatmangc]

First of all I would do a cylinder leak down before doing any thing, and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block, cylider 5&6 could be a head gasket or a bad head, again a leak down test is the proof you need, call me any time if I can help.

^^What he said.^^
I rarely use my compression gauge anymore, I just go for the leakdown test, much more information, like where is the compression going.

[musclemerc]

My 2004 MM with an Alternative Automotive Program and a K& N Air Charger has just been determined to have LOW conperssion on vylider #5 (40-lbs!), and also low on #6.

I have benn advisde that the engine requires replacement - nutz! The car has only 79,000 miles and has never had ANY problems. It is now idling rough, which is why I had the engine checked. I was also told it may have a broken valve spriing or a burnt valve. My mechanic does not want to work on this, even though he is a certified Ford mechanic, and has supposedly work on several Marauders???

Any comments or recommendation?[/QUOTE]

[QUOTE=Dennis Reinhart;1041528]First of all I would do a cylinder leak down before doing any thing, and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block, cylider 5&6 could be a head gasket or a bad head, again a leak down test is the proof you need, call me any time if I can help.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

[na svt]

...and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block
Is wwdogs' combo FI or n/a?

[Dennis Reinhart]

The car is N/A with a CAK and a tune.

[na svt]

The car is N/A with a CAK and a tune.
Why would you recommend a low compression, cast iron block engine as a replacement?

[musclemerc]

He's N/A and basically stock. The low compression Cobra block along with the extra 90lbs will kill you if you plan to stay N/A

Hmmm..... DR?

[na svt]

The low compression Cobra block along with the extra 90lbs will kill you if you plan to stay N/A
I've seen losses of 50rwhp/rwtq by going with a cobra long block on FI combos (when replacing stock marauder engines).

Swapping in a heavier engine that makes less tq makes no sense to me when avaitor and marauder engines are readily available for $1000-$1500.

Take a look at www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) if you want a stock replacement that is inexpensive.

[Dennis Reinhart]

Why would you recommend a low compression, cast iron block engine as a replacement?


Well it is low compression, but it is a S/C motor, cast weighs about 100 lbs more, the engine has a steel crank and manly rods and forged pistons, yes this will not be the same RWHP as a stock Marauder motor but it is a 3 year 100 k warranty, and if goes FI he is set up and ready to go, all this depends on what he wants to do, with car later on down the road, this is a affordable engine. I just posted this as help not a debating point. Just as I posted about the cylinder leak down. The Terminator is about 3K more some people do not have that kind of money.

[na svt]

I just posted this as help not a debating point. I was just curious.

[Dennis Reinhart]

I was just curious.


And that is fine, it never hurts to ask. That is why this is such a good site.

[musclemerc]

I've seen losses of 50rwhp/rwtq by going with a cobra long block on FI combos (when replacing stock marauder engines).

Swapping in a heavier engine that makes less tq makes no sense to me when avaitor and marauder engines are readily available for $1000-$1500.

Take a look at www.car-part.com (http://www.car-part.com) if you want a stock replacement that is inexpensive.

I agree 100% but like I said you need to hang out here more often. There will be more confusion to come... Wait and see...

[musclemerc]

Well it is low compression, but it is a S/C motor, cast weighs about 100 lbs more, the engine has a steel crank and manly rods and forged pistons, yes this will not be the same RWHP as a stock Marauder motor but it is a 3 year 100 k warranty, and if goes FI he is set up and ready to go, all this depends on what he wants to do, with car later on down the road, this is a affordable engine. I just posted this as help not a debating point. Just as I posted about the cylinder leak down. The Terminator is about 3K more some people do not have that kind of money.

I noticed you did a major edit to this post Dennis.
The guy has been a member here since 05, he has a tune and sounds like a panel filter. You think he would be a likely candadite for FI? If he was he would have more mods.

So if he was your customer and got pushed into going with a Cobra assembly, after driving it and feeling the HP loss N/A, he would have no choice other than going FI. :confused: Hmmmmm......

[Dennis Reinhart]

Travis give it a rest along with your sarcastick PM that was deleted, this is not my customer, and I did not do a major revision of the post and I noticed you edited your pun yesterday about the cylinder leak down test. after PM the boatmagic that spoke up and said I was dead right on what I stated,

boatmangc has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Low Cylinder Compression!! - in the Shop Talk forum of MercuryMarauder.net Forums.

This thread is located at:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=70850&goto=newpost

Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************

---Quote (Originally by Dennis Reinhart)---
First of all I would do a cylinder leak down before doing any thing, and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block, cylider 5&6 could be a head gasket or a bad head, again a leak down test is the proof you need, call me any time if I can help.
---End Quote---
^^What he said.^^
I rarely use my compression gauge anymore, I just go for the leakdown test, much more information, like where is the compression going.
***************


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Here is what you deleted.

musclemerc has just replied to a thread you have subscribed to entitled - Low Cylinder Compression!! - in the Shop Talk forum of MercuryMarauder.net Forums.

This thread is located at:
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Here is the message that has just been posted:
***************

---Quote (Originally by wwdogs)---
*My 2004 MM with an Alternative Automotive Program and a K& N Air Charger has just been determined to have LOW conperssion on vylider #5 (40-lbs!), and also low on #6.*

I have benn advisde that the engine requires replacement - nutz! The car has only 79,000 miles and has never had ANY problems. It is now idling rough, which is why I had the engine checked. I was also told it may have a broken valve spriing or a burnt valve. My mechanic does not want to work on this, even though he is a certified Ford mechanic, and has supposedly work on several Marauders???

Any comments or recommendation?
---End Quote---


---Quote (Originally by Dennis Reinhart)---
*First of all I would do a cylinder leak down before doing any thing*, and the most afordable engine is the 03 Cobra long block, cylider 5&6 could be a head gasket or a bad head, again a leak down test is the proof you need, call me any time if I can help.
---End Quote---

May I ask you if he's got 40lbs on cyl#5 how else other than a compression test did he get these numbers? :confused:
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I post what I can to help, I do not want to ARGUE WITH YOU. And I do not do this to you or when you post your sugestions, yet you lay and wait to do this to me, this is enough, Travis end it here and lets let this stay on track with out the circus.

[musclemerc]

May I ask you if he's got 40lbs on cyl#5 how else other than a compression test did he get these numbers? :confused:

Thats a very valid point Dennis.
He must have already had a compression test done to verify the 40lbs. But again, I'll play ball with this one too. You see that was just the beginning of my statement there was more and here it is.

You advise a guy to go with a low compression, 90lbs heavier engine, that also has alot less TQ than a stock MM engine for 1 reason and 1 reason only.

SO YOU CAN SELL HIM A S/C

So much for helping the guy save a buck and fix his car with the correct parts for his platform. He's asking for help for a reason. ;)

[babbage]

Musclemerc ignorance is bliss.



Cylinder leakdown test-
While a compression test is a dynamic test (engine moving), a cylinder leakdown test (C.L.T.) is a static test (engine at rest). The compression test measures how much pressure the engine can produce while cranking; in contrast to the C.L.T., which measures how much pressure is lost in the engine. In a C.L.T. the engine is placed on TDC of the cylinder in question and using a similar type of connector as the compression test, we fill the cylinder with pressure. The tester then measures the volume of air needed to maintain a predetermined pressure in the cylinder. This reading is expressed in a percentage. Good cylinder leakdown readings should be below 5-8%.
The great thing about C.L.T. is that it deals with how well the cylinder is sealing and nothing else. The readings are not affected by carbon deposits, cam timing, or even engine cranking speed.
Another great feature of the C.L.T. is the fact that you can hear where the air is leaking out of the cylinder. When a cylinder has high percentage of leakage, first check the oil filler cap. Do you hear a hissing sound? If so, you may have pressure leaking by the rings. Is there air escaping out the exhaust? Is it escaping out the intake system? Then a burned valve may be the problem. If two adjoining cylinders have similar low readings and you hear leakage out the other cylinder, then a failed head gasket may be the problem.
Being able to pinpoint the exact source of the compression loss will tell you where the problem is; and not just that you have one. This knowledge will greatly assist you in the next step… the repair.



Dennis said an 03 Cobra reman was the least expensive - that's it. Might be a good choice if the OP is going to go SC. Doesn't mean anything other than that.


Geesh, it's obvious you are jealous of Reinhart but do you have to follow him around like a little dog yapping all the time?

[ctrlraven]

Vendor Wars take #2348274359823457403573409

Action! lol

Is a leak down test something easy that can be performed? I'd be curious just to see how my engine is after 157k miles.

[fastblackmerc]

Musclemerc ignorance is bliss.



Dennis said an 03 Cobra reman was the least expensive - that's it. Might be a good choice if the OP is going to go SC. Doesn't mean anything other than that.


Geesh, it's obvious you are jealous of Reinhart but do you have to follow him around like a little dog yapping all the time?





+1!

Give it a rest Travis.

[musclemerc]

Actually a MM take out is the least expensive route to go.
As stated earlier they are 1000.00~1500.00 for the long block

[fastblackmerc]

With a take-out motor you have no idea of the condition.

With a reman motor at least you know it's been gone through and has new parts replaced and there is a 3 year warranty.

What kind, if any, warranty to you get with a take-out motor?

From Ford's website: http://www.fordparts.com/Products/PowertrainProducts-RemanufacturedGasEngineAssembl ies.aspx

When you purchase a Ford Remanufactured Gas Engine Assembly, you're getting a product that's built to the exacting specifications of Ford Motor Company – not just a quality build, but one that's built for your vehicle.

Each engine is built using parts that keep it specific to make, model, year and emissions calibration, which means each assembly is engineered to perform like the one it's replacing. Plus, Ford remanufactured engines use new Ford engineered service parts in the remanufacturing process and most include intake manifold gaskets, thermostat, exhaust studs, oil filter adaptors and oil coolers (as required).

Features

* Long block – Each is thoroughly inspected to meet Ford Motor Company's stringent OE engineering specifications
* Cylinder bores – All are oversized in every block, and multipass-honed to meet or exceed OE specifications for fuel economy, oil consumption, performance and durability
* Stepped cylinder bore honed – We use a special process to optimize oil consumption and minimize break-in time
* New hypereutectic or forged-aluminum pistons – Manufactured to meet OE engine performance criteria
* Computer-controlled testing – Tested before assemblies leave the factory for oil flow, sealing integrity, oil pressure, component quality and compression
* New parts are installed – We include piston rings, valves, springs, keepers, tappets, valve adjusters, gaskets and seals

3-Year/Unlimited-Mile Warranty – No Commercial Exceptions
Ford remanufactured gasoline engines and transmissions are covered by a 3-year/unlimited-mile warranty.* Remanufactured diesel engines are covered by a 2-year/unlimited-mile warranty.*

All warranties are backed by Ford Motor Company and supported by more than 3,000 Ford and Lincoln Dealerships nationwide, or by originating place of service.

Plus, unlike those of some competitors, the warranty is good for fleet vehicles. That means you get the same advantages and coverage for commercial use, with no exceptions.

See complete limited-warranty statement

*See dealer for limited-warranty details.

No-Risk Core Return Credit
With the no-risk core return credit, you never have to worry about extra charges if your engine core is damaged.**

**100% core credit is always provided – never prorated. Returned core must be the same part as assembly purchased. Core must be 100% complete, with all parts attached, all fluids drained, and returned in the original package.

[SC Cheesehead]

"People, I just want to say, you know, can we all get along? Can we get along?" - Rodney Glen King

[ctrlraven]

Travis is just trying to make a point, if the person has no desire to go FI down the road then a Cobra reman unit is not what they want at all. That's the point he is trying to get across. If FI is in the near to distance future then going with the Cobra reman unit would be a smart choice. Both vendors make valid points.

I don't see anything wrong with DR suggesting a Cobra reman unit, he is a business man and wants to sell a s/c kit. lol It's up to the person with the cash and car to make their own educated choice on what they want to do, all everyone else can do is offer suggests and options.

[MERCMAN]

Time to go, I think the beatings will need to start again