Oil Analysis Data

[sailsmen]

I posted the Sample Data in the Photo Gallery under :http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showphoto.php/photo/1624/password//sort/1/size/medium/cat/501/page/

Key to Data under;
http://www.mercurygallery.net/mmnet/showphoto.php/photo/1629


Any comments are welcome.

[Amsoil_Dealer]

Sailsman,

I don't like the looks of that Copper number. Having said that though someone else was talking about high copper numbers being from the oil cooler...I don't know exactly where it is coming from and the fact that it is so high on the break in oil does seem to indicate that the copper is coming from something other than just wear..

I compared those results to mine from my 76,500 Crown Victoria.
My numbers are almost exactly the same after 14,800 miles on Amsoil 0W30 (the exception being my copper number was 36 PPM). The point is, Amsoil can go 3 times far and yeild the same result.....and it MAY, just may bring that copper number down. I don't advocate extended drain intervals for cars under warranty and thus the true value of using Amsoil may not be warranted for 5000 mile drains. For the sake of $20 more dollars of oil though it might be worth a try to see if it improves your numbers.

Don
www.lubedealer.com/dstevens

[sailsmen]

Thanks for the repsonse. It was me that had the post on the possible oil cooler and as a result I learned the MM does not have an oil cooler.

The Lab Tech wasn't real concerned with the cooper, said probably leaching from an oil cooler or gasket.

Others using Ford oil and Mobile One Syn in MM have also shown high copper.

It still bothers me and I will have a another sample done in the future. Will post it.;)

[SergntMac]

I believe the best oil is clean oil, and it's better to buy the cheap oil and change it often, than to buy more expensive stuff and prolong the change to enjoy the implied "added value." Additive enhanced oils are a myth in my book, you're not getting jack from that crap, if it's really there at all...IMHO. Nonetheless, look at all the crap in oil, and imagine what these numbers would look like if you went a full 5K between changes.

Before y'all get your undies in a bunch, or start "what Ifn" this clinical report, get a base line on your favorite oil. Buy a can and send a sample in for testing, tell them it's a second car and not to mix the data with car #1, because they are running sub totals and producing a cumulative report. Also, don't tell them it's fresh oil, just have them test it and report. Use that report for the side by side of your next oil test, and then y'all got something to work with. Remember, even 100 pure DINO will contain most of these elements, it's what makes oil oil to begin with.

Secondly, get a grip on reality, your engine IS wearing out. How fast and to what degree, is all you can learn here. Moreover, everything inside your engine has copper in it, either pure in some bearing surfaces, or, in alloy parts. Copper comes in your oil too, which is why a base line test is helpful. Expect copper to appear on all reports, and monitor that index for unusual spikes.

Your silicon index is important too, here's why...

http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/powertrain/4.6l.crownvic.ref31507.htm

BTW, Tin is also present in alloys, but not in oil. What do you see in this report about Tin? Yup...Zero ppm, so, rest assured that if there was anything going wrong inside your engine, any unusual wear at the present time, Tin would be detected and reported here.

It's good to change your oil on a regular basis you're comfortable with. In warmer months, I change mine every 2K, because I'm beating on my car everyday. In cooler months, say below 45 degrees, chances are I am not, so, everk 3K is fine then. But, now y'all can see what's in oil, and what contaminates it. You should look at your engine oil like it's a face wash that carries away contanimates, micro debris and heat, as it lubricates and cools. Change it every 5K? Yeeuck!

Just my .02c...

[schuvwj]

I am sure our MM's do not have an OEM oil cooler for the engine.
There is a cooler for the trany and power steering but not for the engine unless you have added an after market oil cooler. How do you get copper from an oil cooler you don't have?

I will have to agree with Mac. Change your oil every 2,000 to 2,500 miles with a good filter, (Motorcraft or Moble-1 filter) and forget it.

[jgc61sr2002]

Originally posted by SergntMac
I believe the best oil is clean oil, and it's better to buy the cheap oil and change it often, than to buy more expensive stuff and prolong the change to enjoy the implied "added value." Additive enhanced oils are a myth in my book, you're not getting jack from that crap, if it's really there at all...IMHO. Nonetheless, look at all the crap in oil, and imagine what these numbers would look like if you went a full 5K between changes.

Before y'all get your undies in a bunch, or start "what Ifn" this clinical report, get a base line on your favorite oil. Buy a can and send a sample in for testing, tell them it's a second car and not to mix the data with car #1, because they are running sub totals and producing a cumulative report. Also, don't tell them it's fresh oil, just have them test it and report. Use that report for the side by side of your next oil test, and then y'all got something to work with. Remember, even 100 pure DINO will contain most of these elements, it's what makes oil oil to begin with.

Secondly, get a grip on reality, your engine IS wearing out. How fast and to what degree, is all you can learn here. Moreover, everything inside your engine has copper in it, either pure in some bearing surfaces, or, in alloy parts. Copper comes in your oil too, which is why a base line test is helpful. Expect copper to appear on all reports, and monitor that index for unusual spikes.

Your silicon index is important too, here's why...

http://www.blueovalnews.com/2003/powertrain/4.6l.crownvic.ref31507.htm

BTW, Tin is also present in alloys, but not in oil. What do you see in this report about Tin? Yup...Zero ppm, so, rest assured that if there was anything going wrong inside your engine, any unusual wear at the present time, Tin would be detected and reported here.

It's good to change your oil on a regular basis you're comfortable with. In warmer months, I change mine every 2K, because I'm beating on my car everyday. In cooler months, say below 45 degrees, chances are I am not, so, everk 3K is fine then. But, now y'all can see what's in oil, and what contaminates it. You should look at your engine oil like it's a face wash that carries away contanimates, micro debris and heat, as it lubricates and cools. Change it every 5K? Yeeuck!

Just my .02c... Mac - I couldn't agree more. :up: