Spark Plug Change Instructional

[Pat]

A few of my Internet acquaintances want to attempt to change their spark plugs in their Ford's equipped with DOHC engines.

I made up an instructional and thought I would ask the membership to review it and critique the content.

[Vostok]

Make this a .doc :)

[Pat]

You can't open it? I have Word 2007 and that's the file extension that Bill assigned.

I have not been able to change it directly, can it be done?

Mary had to put the new file extension in the bin so I could post it.

[fastblackmerc]

Can't open the file either.

[MOTOWN]

no dice here!

[Marauderjack]

Works for me....."Word" document!!:beer:

[TooManyFords]

If you do not have Word/Office 2007 or greater, download this:

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/en/details.aspx?familyid=3657ce88-7cfa-457a-9aec-f4f827f20cac&displaylang=en

It's free.

[Chevyguy]

Yeah all you guys with 8 year old Office 2003 get with the times!!

A few comments: Overall a very good writeup :)

Using the torque wrench with anti-sieze may throw you off somewhat. I torque em by hand but I have a VERRRY steady mental torque wrench :) The Factory Torque specs are for DRY plugs.

Oil seepage from the O ring around the plug hole is somewhat undesirable. My car was 100% dry. If the seepage gets enough this can cause misfires.

The COP harness connectors love to break, add a caution about this.

Also the sealing of the coil covers needs to be addressed. Should inspect the cover gasket and replace if necessary, also add a dab of black RTV where the wire harness leads into the recess. My car was all ****ed up there by a previous entry by a Dealership mechanic. They used a giant amount of RTV glopped in there and the seal leaked and rusted up the #4 plug causing misfires.

Also add some pictures, I should have taken some when I did mine.

[Bluerauder]

You can't open it? I have Word 2007 and that's the file extension that Bill assigned.

I have not been able to change it directly, can it be done?

Mary had to put the new file extension in the bin so I could post it.

No problem for me Pat. :D

[RF Overlord]

Using the torque wrench with anti-sieze may throw you off somewhat. The Factory Torque specs are for DRY plugs.^^^what Chevyguy said^^^

If you use anti-seize, that reduces friction on the threads so you have to reduce the setting on the torque wrench by about 10% to compensate. Factory spec is 11 ft/lbs (132 in/lbs) so a setting of 10 ft/lbs (120 in/lbs) would be correct when using anti-seize.

Although it may seem counter-intuitive, it is better to slightly under-tighten the plugs in aluminium heads than to over-tighten them. The steel shells of the plugs can cause galling and/or distortion of the threads leading to thread failure. Over-tightening is the leading cause of the spark plug blow-outs that are so common with modular motors.

[Marauderjack]

Oil seepage from the O ring around the plug hole is somewhat undesirable. My car was 100% dry. If the seepage gets enough this can cause misfires.


Oil in the plug tubes will not cause a misfire.....oil does not conduct electricity!!:shake:

My #8 tube has been leaking a little for the last few years and I git about 1/2" between plug changes and never have had a misfire!!:cool:

[Blackened300a]

Spark Plug Change Procedure


Ford 4.6 DOHC





PRELIMINARY
1. Obtain necessary tools:
Spark plug socket – 5/8 X 3/8 drive with rubber grip insert
10 inch extension X 3/8 drive
3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench
Torque wrench 25-250 inch pound range
Spark plug gap tool, blade style with gap adjustment feature
10 MM socket 3/8 inch drive
Tube, anti seize compound (not grease)

2. Engine must be cold. It’s an aluminum block so be careful not to strip out the threads in the plug wells. There may be some small amount of oil residue on the top portion of the plug and inside the well, this is normal.
Do one plug change at a time, There are no big spark plugs wires just a coil on plug assembly (COP) on each plug with a two wire electrical connector, a small transformer and a spring assembly (this is one unit that connects directly to the top of the spark plug)
3. Obtain your replacement spark plugs from Ford parts dealer or any FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store). I recommend Motorcraft plugs, SP505.
4. Check the gap on the plugs and regap if needed. Many times, plugs are gapped correctly at the factory. Stock gap is around .052-.056 range.
The gap is the space between the center electrode and the ground strap of the plug. The correct method is to insert the appropriate blade between the two elements and adjust the distance between the elements by bending the ground strap at its base to decrease or increase the gap.
The gap will be correct if the blade barely drags on the elements as you slide it between them.
5. Set your torque wrench to 132-156 inch pounds, (that’s 11-13 foot lbs).
6. put a very small amount of anti seize compound completely around the threads, do not put compound on the tip of the plug.



REMOVAL



1. Remove the COP covers on each bank of cylinders. This is the flat metal cover on top of the larger valve covers. Two 10MM bolts hold this on. There is an opening on the rear for the plug control wires, so don’t reverse the COP covers. They also have a small gasket embedded in a groove.
2. This will now expose the COPs. You will only see the top portion at this time. Remove the electrical connector by depressing the tang on the plastic body. Do not break this connector tang.
3. Remove the COP by pulling straight up, this may take a little effort since the spring is a friction fit over the top of the plug. Use two hands, one to hold the COP body and the other to pull up on the spring assembly. Try not to stretch the spring assembly.
4. Fit your 3/8 ratchet, 10 inch extension and 5/8 inch socket together. Place this string into the well and over the spark plug. Feel that the socket has engaged the plug and loosen the plug (this may take a few sharp blows with your palm to “break loose” the plug.
Maintain a firm downward pressure on the tool string to keep from stripping the socket or plug and remove the plug. There may be some points where the plug is harder to turn but keep the pressure on and continue turning until the plug is removed.
5. Inspect the plug to see if the tip is a tan color and there is no mechanical damage such as metal beads or burnt off electrode. All the plugs should be very similar in color and condition.
The plugs on #7 and #8 cylinders (closest to the firewall on the driver’s side) may be harder to break free because they get the hottest.



INSTALLATION



1. Install the prepared spark plug by fitting the plug into the socket, placing the tool string into the well and starting the plug use the ratchet, not the torque wrench, begin tightening the plug until the plug is snug.
2. Replace the ratchet with the torque wrench and commence tightening until the wrench clicks. Do not over or under torque.
3. Replace the COP by positioning the spring assembly over the spark plug on push down until you feel that the spring is firmly gripping the spark plug.
4. Reconnect the electrical connector making sure the tang clicks on the COP side of the connection.
5. Repeat until all the plugs are changed.
6. Reinstall the COP covers (both banks).
7. Start engine and listen for smooth idle, test drive car after warm up and listen/feel by seat of pants for misfires. Go to wide open throttle (passing gear) on an open highway and listen/ feel for misfires. Don’t need to get to a high speed, less than 75 MPH will do.
You are done.
Regards,

Pat

[fastblackmerc]

Spark Plug Change Procedure


Ford 4.6 DOHC





PRELIMINARY
1. Obtain necessary tools:
Spark plug socket – 5/8 X 3/8 drive with rubber grip insert
10 inch extension X 3/8 drive
3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench
Torque wrench 25-250 inch pound range
Spark plug gap tool, blade style with gap adjustment feature
10 MM socket 3/8 inch drive
Tube, anti seize compound (not grease)

2. Engine must be cold. It’s an aluminum block so be careful not to strip out the threads in the plug wells. There may be some small amount of oil residue on the top portion of the plug and inside the well, this is normal.
Do one plug change at a time, There are no big spark plugs wires just a coil on plug assembly (COP) on each plug with a two wire electrical connector, a small transformer and a spring assembly (this is one unit that connects directly to the top of the spark plug)
3. Obtain your replacement spark plugs from Ford parts dealer or any FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store). I recommend Motorcraft plugs, SP505.
4. Check the gap on the plugs and regap if needed. Many times, plugs are gapped correctly at the factory. Stock gap is around .052-.056 range.
The gap is the space between the center electrode and the ground strap of the plug. The correct method is to insert the appropriate blade between the two elements and adjust the distance between the elements by bending the ground strap at its base to decrease or increase the gap.
The gap will be correct if the blade barely drags on the elements as you slide it between them.
5. Set your torque wrench to 132-156 inch pounds, (that’s 11-13 foot lbs).
6. put a very small amount of anti seize compound completely around the threads, do not put compound on the tip of the plug.



REMOVAL



1. Remove the COP covers on each bank of cylinders. This is the flat metal cover on top of the larger valve covers. Two 10MM bolts hold this on. There is an opening on the rear for the plug control wires, so don’t reverse the COP covers. They also have a small gasket embedded in a groove.
2. This will now expose the COPs. You will only see the top portion at this time. Remove the electrical connector by depressing the tang on the plastic body. Do not break this connector tang.
3. Remove the COP by pulling straight up, this may take a little effort since the spring is a friction fit over the top of the plug. Use two hands, one to hold the COP body and the other to pull up on the spring assembly. Try not to stretch the spring assembly.
4. Fit your 3/8 ratchet, 10 inch extension and 5/8 inch socket together. Place this string into the well and over the spark plug. Feel that the socket has engaged the plug and loosen the plug (this may take a few sharp blows with your palm to “break loose” the plug.
Maintain a firm downward pressure on the tool string to keep from stripping the socket or plug and remove the plug. There may be some points where the plug is harder to turn but keep the pressure on and continue turning until the plug is removed.
5. Inspect the plug to see if the tip is a tan color and there is no mechanical damage such as metal beads or burnt off electrode. All the plugs should be very similar in color and condition.
The plugs on #7 and #8 cylinders (closest to the firewall on the driver’s side) may be harder to break free because they get the hottest.



INSTALLATION



1. Install the prepared spark plug by fitting the plug into the socket, placing the tool string into the well and starting the plug use the ratchet, not the torque wrench, begin tightening the plug until the plug is snug.
2. Replace the ratchet with the torque wrench and commence tightening until the wrench clicks. Do not over or under torque.
3. Replace the COP by positioning the spring assembly over the spark plug on push down until you feel that the spring is firmly gripping the spark plug.
4. Reconnect the electrical connector making sure the tang clicks on the COP side of the connection.
5. Repeat until all the plugs are changed.
6. Reinstall the COP covers (both banks).
7. Start engine and listen for smooth idle, test drive car after warm up and listen/feel by seat of pants for misfires. Go to wide open throttle (passing gear) on an open highway and listen/ feel for misfires. Don’t need to get to a high speed, less than 75 MPH will do.
You are done.
Regards,

Pat

Should add to REMOVAL a step after #3..... clean out any debris found in the spark plug wells.

[Pat]

Thanks men for your comments, I will incorporte them in my orginal document.

Thanks John (TMF) for the pointer of Word free download to coverrt .DOCX to .DOC and to Blackened 300A for the text. Now we can all see it.

[whd507]

I would add to put some di-electric grease in the coil boots where they go over the end of the plug. I see a lot of engines with sunken plugs get moisture trapped in the bores, causing misfires, even with new plugs and boots. I sell plugs all day, I see thousands of folks in a year and while many people think its a sales gimmick to get another $1.29 out of them, but I have never had anyone complain after using it, I have had a lot of folks with unsolvable light misfires finally give in and use it to find the misfire go away. exposed plugs can dry out, but our plugs and most new cars with deep wells, keep that moisture in there quite well. as is often seen on our cars in the last bores closest to where the harness enters the covers in back.

[whd507]

And as a personal preference I do not use any thread sealer if the plug itself is coated. especially in modulars before 2000, but after that as well. I discourage my customers from using it in any modular ford.

[NavySeabee]

Should add to REMOVAL a step after #3..... clean out any debris found in the spark plug wells.




Spark Plug Change Procedure



Ford 4.6 DOHC



PRELIMINARY

1. Obtain necessary tools:
Spark plug socket – 5/8 X 3/8 drive with rubber grip insert
10 inch extension X 3/8 drive
3/8 inch drive ratchet wrench
Torque wrench 25-250 inch pound range
Spark plug gap tool, blade style with gap adjustment feature
10 MM socket 3/8 inch drive
Tube, anti seize compound (not grease)

2. Engine must be cold. It’s an aluminum block so be careful not to strip out the threads in the plug wells. There may be some small amount of oil residue on the top portion of the plug and inside the well, this is normal.
Do one plug change at a time, There are no big spark plugs wires just a coil on plug assembly (COP) on each plug with a two wire electrical connector, a small transformer and a spring assembly (this is one unit that connects directly to the top of the spark plug)
3. Obtain your replacement spark plugs from Ford parts dealer or any FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store). I recommend Motorcraft plugs, SP505.
4. Check the gap on the plugs and regap if needed. Many times, plugs are gapped correctly at the factory. Stock gap is around .052-.056 range.
The gap is the space between the center electrode and the ground strap of the plug. The correct method is to insert the appropriate blade between the two elements and adjust the distance between the elements by bending the ground strap at its base to decrease or increase the gap.
The gap will be correct if the blade barely drags on the elements as you slide it between them.
5. Set your torque wrench to 132-156 inch pounds, (that’s 11-13 foot lbs).
6. put a very small amount of anti seize compound completely around the threads, do not put compound on the tip of the plug.



REMOVAL

1. Remove the COP covers on each bank of cylinders. This is the flat metal cover on top of the larger valve covers. Two 10MM bolts hold this on. There is an opening on the rear for the plug control wires, so don’t reverse the COP covers. They also have a small gasket embedded in a groove.
2. This will now expose the COPs. You will only see the top portion at this time. Remove the electrical connector by depressing the tang on the plastic body. Do not break this connector tang.
3. Remove the COP by pulling straight up, this may take a little effort since the spring is a friction fit over the top of the plug. Use two hands, one to hold the COP body and the other to pull up on the spring assembly. Try not to stretch the spring assembly.
4. Fit your 3/8 ratchet, 10 inch extension and 5/8 inch socket together. Place this string into the well and over the spark plug. Feel that the socket has engaged the plug and loosen the plug (this may take a few sharp blows with your palm to “break loose” the plug.
Maintain a firm downward pressure on the tool string to keep from stripping the socket or plug and remove the plug. There may be some points where the plug is harder to turn but keep the pressure on and continue turning until the plug is removed.
5. Inspect the plug to see if the tip is a tan color and there is no mechanical damage such as metal beads or burnt off electrode. All the plugs should be very similar in color and condition.
The plugs on #7 and #8 cylinders (closest to the firewall on the driver’s side) may be harder to break free because they get the hottest.



INSTALLATION

1. Install the prepared spark plug by fitting the plug into the socket, placing the tool string into the well and starting the plug use the ratchet, not the torque wrench, begin tightening the plug until the plug is snug.
2. Replace the ratchet with the torque wrench and commence tightening until the wrench clicks. Do not over or under torque.
3. Replace the COP by positioning the spring assembly over the spark plug on push down until you feel that the spring is firmly gripping the spark plug.
4. Reconnect the electrical connector making sure the tang clicks on the COP side of the connection.
5. Repeat until all the plugs are changed.
6. Reinstall the COP covers (both banks).
7. Start engine and listen for smooth idle, test drive car after warm up and listen/feel by seat of pants for misfires. Go to wide open throttle (passing gear) on an open highway and listen/ feel for misfires. Don’t need to get to a high speed, less than 75 MPH will do.
You are done.
Regards,

Pat

Old post but glad I found it. Google was my friend!

Is this the final version even though it states preliminary? I plan to take a shot at this very soon along with changing out the COPs themselves. Still need to order everything. Got a slight studder at idle and when accelerating at slower speeds. Feels like a misfire. Figure I change the COPs and plugs since it would cost me just as much for a shop to have it checked out.

Hell, I replaced the EATC o-rings and swapped out my BCM, this doesn't seem much harder.

[MERCMAN]

this has been "stuck"

[rkk]

Pat,

In regards to your Motorcraft SP505, did Ford change the number?

I checked my records and back in late 2007 I used Motorcraft SP433.

- Rob

[NavySeabee]

this has been "stuck"

OK, from the guy that didn't know what "Bump" meant, where do I find where it's been "stuck"? :confused:

Thanks! :)

[WhatsUpDOHC]

Useful information gets a "sticky" so that it's easy to find.

[Ms. Denmark]

OK, from the guy that didn't know what "Bump" meant, where do I find where it's been "stuck"? :confused:

Thanks! :)
LOL Pete! It's "stuck" in the Shop Talk Forum.;)

[RF Overlord]

Pat,

In regards to your Motorcraft SP505, did Ford change the number?

I checked my records and back in late 2007 I used Motorcraft SP433.

- RobSP505 is for use with forced induction (as Pat has) or if you have a performance tune and your tuner recommends cooler plugs. Otherwise, use the stock heat-range SP-433.

Using a cooler plug than necessary won't give you any more power, and may even reduce it as the plug will have a greater tendency to foul.

[NavySeabee]

LOL Pete! It's "stuck" in the Shop Talk Forum.;)

THATS the answer I was looking for! Keep laughing!

Thanks Paula :)

[GreekGod]

Always blow out the plug well with compressed air before plug removal.

I use a rubber hose over the ceramic to get the plug started back into the hole, and tighten it down. The hose will slip on the ceramic if the plug isn't starting properly.

Always use di-electric grease on the rubber boot. A small blob goes a long way, and makes everything go smooth.

If you break off a coil connector tab, you can use a tooth pick to friction-fit the connector to the coil. Replacement connectors are way over-priced. When in a self-service salvage yard, look for connectors for spares.

================

[MercThunder]

To all, and especially the OP, thank you, thank you, thank you! I've only had mine for a year, and have the parts to do the replacement, and this tutorial is extremely helpful. This will be the evening project one night this week.

[Fly007]

Always blow out the plug well with compressed air before plug removal.

I use a rubber hose over the ceramic to get the plug started back into the hole, and tighten it down. The hose will slip on the ceramic if the plug isn't starting properly.

Always use di-electric grease on the rubber boot. A small blob goes a long way, and makes everything go smooth.

If you break off a coil connector tab, you can use a tooth pick to friction-fit the connector to the coil. Replacement connectors are way over-priced. When in a self-service salvage yard, look for connectors for spares.

================

Second that on the rubber hose! 3/8" ID rubber hose works great! Had a DOHC Honda I had to use that method on in the past.

[fastblackmerc]

I use one of these, just start it by hand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Snap-On-3-8-Drive-5-8-6-Point-Deep-Spark-Plug-Socket-S9720KA-Nice-/391230158034?hash=item5b172274 d2&item=391230158034&vxp=mtr

[Fly007]

Nice! But rubber hose costs less than a buck.......

[HotRaud90]

Very informative and helpful write up. Absolutely no problems after following all the instructions/advice posted in here.

Also, as a heads up to anyone wondering about dielectric grease on the boots, the COPs that I ordered from Ford (M-12029-4V) had dielectric grease pre-applied on the inside of the boot where it meets the plug. I put in a little more using my own tube of grease, but it looks like they were primed from the factory for installation in case you don't have grease on hand.

[paparauder]

I use a rubber hose on the spark plug end to start them. Less chance of cross threading.

[paparauder]

I am not so sure about never seize on the spark plug threads.
That is how the plug grounds...

[MyBlackBeasts]

I am not so sure about never seize on the spark plug threads.
That is how the plug grounds...

Anti-sieze promotes electrical connectivity. The paste is made with aluminum or copper particles (depending on the AS type). It's why it works so well to protect grounds and coat battery connections.

ALWAYS skim coat plug threads going in to an aluminum head. Otherwise the corrosion created by dis-similar metal contact will seize the plug in the head and when you try to remove the head threads will come out with the plug.

Also compensate the torque value of the plug for the use of AS on these heads that FOMOCO thought were well designed with only half a thread for the plug (sarcasm intended) to prevent rolling the thread out of the head.

[daniel.drives]

Thanks for the good writeup! knocked this out yesterday. Can't say the old ones were in bad shape but there were a couple where the gap was undersized

[crouse]

I didn't read everyone's comments, but I use a locking extension on my spark plug wrench. And I add a little dielectric grease in the end of the spark plug terminal.

[paparauder]

I recommend to NEVER EVER start a spark plug with a ratchet!! Get yourself a piece of rubber hose, i.e. vacuum etc, feed it on the plug and then start it. Once it is properly threaded in you can use the ratchet assembly.

[crouse]

I'm not using the ratchet to get the sparkplug started, I'm using the extension to get it started.

[BUCKWHEAT]

Changed mine yesterday, so reading this was timely. I have the long, like 8" socket, so restarting new plug is easy. I gap down to .035. The S/C engine seems to like less gap. I use my elbow to not over-tighten plugs. I use the NGK TR6 4177, and change every year.