Blew up my Trilogy DTR....Need input.

[FudPucker]

Coming back from a trip to the Dells, turned off the tollway in Elgin and noticed it running bad. Pulled into the garage 2 min. later and it sounded like it was coming apart at the seams. Last time I heard an engine like this was my 70 AAR Cuda 340 when I blew it up.

Brought it in to the dealership (I'm not a mechanic and this sounded serious.)
They pulled some plugs and found 2 of them smashed, and black as ****.

Assessment was, scorched at least 2 cylinders. Time for a new engine. This one had 98k on it (bought it 3 years ago in Sept.). It's hauled my butt coast to coast many times, and deserves a transplant.

My question is....has anyone been through this here and where can you get a good rebuilt from, besides FORD. They want $5500 for a rbld.

Then we have the question of can the Trilogy be moved?

Anyone? (I'm lost without my DTR, which otherwise....looks like new!)

[MMBLUE]

MMR, Cobra short block. See how your in the pan handle give DR a jingle. Just got to have a lot of jingle in your pocket. Sorry, saw eglin and was thinking eglin AFB in the pan handle. Well see how your in IL. PM me or Motorhead 350 and we'll get in touch with the Zman. He'll fix ya up with a little less jingle in your pocket.

[RoyLPita]

You are closer to Lidio at Alternative Automotive in Detroit. He can rebuild your motor and beef it up too.

[SC Cheesehead]

just curious, which cylinders?

[DOOM]

Time to get a cobra short block!

I see you're in Illinois. Pm Motörhead350 he had one for sale and he's in your neck of the woods.

[Bigdogjim]

You are closer to Lidio at Alternative Automotive in Detroit. He can rebuild your motor and beef it up too.

This would be my route as well. Lidio will do great job and your not that far to have to towed over.

Good luck with the re-build, and keep us posted.

[babbage]

Brand new Aluminator is about $6k just saying.. Very close to what you want to spend.

[FordNut]

Brand new Aluminator is about $6k just saying.. Very close to what you want to spend.

That's probably the best route.

[jstevens]

call Zman.

[burt ragio]

Where is the best place to buy a aluminator ?
Is $6000. a long block ?

[boatmangc]

I did the Aluminator when I puked mine.
It wasn't much more $$ than a stocker and you get a lot more motor.

[Spectragod]

You are closer to Lidio at Alternative Automotive in Detroit. He can rebuild your motor and beef it up too.

As long as the block and heads are still good, otherwise you will be looking for cores. And it will be a smidge more than the 5.5k at the dealer. You may want to consider a aluminator if the dealer will put it in and change over the Trilogy, Otherwise, I have a 21k mile DTR that I can put you into with a twin screw and a slew of other go-fast goodies...... speed = $$$$$.:D

Good luck with what ever you do, if you can't wrench, there are no super cheap options.

[xavier296]

tousley ford is by far the best option for aluminators that I have found. They offer good discounts to forum members, charging 10% over dealer cost I believe.

[69ranchero351c]

sell it to me! otherwise aluminator

[TooManyFords]

sell it to me! otherwise aluminator

I was going to say that too! :P

[kmastl]

Zman will get you running. I had a head that was destroyed and he got it all working.

[BUCKWHEAT]

Coming back from a trip to the Dells, turned off the tollway in Elgin and noticed it running bad. Pulled into the garage 2 min. later and it sounded like it was coming apart at the seams. Last time I heard an engine like this was my 70 AAR Cuda 340 when I blew it up.

Brought it in to the dealership (I'm not a mechanic and this sounded serious.)
They pulled some plugs and found 2 of them smashed, and black as ****.

Assessment was, scorched at least 2 cylinders. Time for a new engine. This one had 98k on it (bought it 3 years ago in Sept.). It's hauled my butt coast to coast many times, and deserves a transplant.

My question is....has anyone been through this here and where can you get a good rebuilt from, besides FORD. They want $5500 for a rbld.

Then we have the question of can the Trilogy be moved?

Anyone? (I'm lost without my DTR, which otherwise....looks like new!)

Personally, I think you should consider an aluminum rebuild regardless. The Cobra is wrong compression for the Trilogy and adds 90# of ugly fat to the nose of your DTR.

You can't go wrong with the aluminator. It will be a strong improvement over the soft internals of the stock engine. Have Tousley send it to Zack since he is close. For a longer trip, Lidio will be top notch as well.

For the cheapest fix, buy someones used MM engine. Trilogy will bolt on with a few fixes discussed on this site or in the Trilogy install manual.

Best of luck. You will be happy with the new engine regardless. Now, for the price of some black paint, ....

[O's Fan Rich]

Aluminator longblock

[BODYMAN]

Brand new Aluminator is about $6k just saying.. Very close to what you want to spend.

Get a Alluminator from Tousley Ford if you find another forddealer cheaper tellthe guys at Tousley thell probably match itand super guys to deal with.
As for install were youre at youve got options. I personally might be biase to which person and he lives in youre area (chicago) He just finished a Install for me with a Alluminator & 2.3 Whipple and 0 complinents

[BODYMAN]

Personally, I think you should consider an aluminum rebuild regardless. The Cobra is wrong compression for the Trilogy and adds 90# of ugly fat to the nose of your DTR.

You can't go wrong with the aluminator. It will be a strong improvement over the soft internals of the stock engine. Have Tousley send it to Zack since he is close. For a longer trip, Lidio will be top notch as well.

For the cheapest fix, buy someones used MM engine. Trilogy will bolt on with a few fixes discussed on this site or in the Trilogy install manual.

Best of luck. You will be happy with the new engine regardless. Now, for the price of some black paint, ....

Yea only if he gets the low comp. But the 10.1 Alluminator would be a good choice

[juno]

I have an Al Papito built motor in my garage. There is a thread on here when it was built for a former member. 9.2 compression and forged rods and pistons. Cast crank. Can handle 600 rwhp easy. Ready to drop in.

[sailsmen]

Personally, I think you should consider an aluminum rebuild regardless. The Cobra is wrong compression for the Trilogy and adds 90# of ugly fat to the nose of your DTR.

You can't go wrong with the aluminator. It will be a strong improvement over the soft internals of the stock engine. Have Tousley send it to Zack since he is close. For a longer trip, Lidio will be top notch as well.

For the cheapest fix, buy someones used MM engine. Trilogy will bolt on with a few fixes discussed on this site or in the Trilogy install manual.

Best of luck. You will be happy with the new engine regardless. Now, for the price of some black paint, ....

I thought the Cobra engine was built for the Eaton S/C model that Trilogy uses?:confused:

Did Ford mess up and put the wrong S/C on the Cobra or does Trilogy use a different S/C than the Cobra?

[Mercguy04]

Yea only if he gets the low comp. But the 10.1 Alluminator would be a good choice

If you go to ChicagoSVT and look up the build Z man did on Todd's engine
I think that will answer all your questons. There is a lot involved in this
build than meets the eye.
Z man builts good engines and makes good HP Tuned and everything.
Don't forget MuscleMerc's Catch cans, air box, and some other products.
You have an opportunity here to really make that DTR Growl.
Russell

[Mike]

Zman will get you running. I had a head that was destroyed and he got it all working.


MMR, Cobra short block. See how your in the pan handle give DR a jingle. Just got to have a lot of jingle in your pocket. Sorry, saw eglin and was thinking eglin AFB in the pan handle. Well see how your in IL. PM me or Motorhead 350 and we'll get in touch with the Zman. He'll fix ya up with a little less jingle in your pocket.


call Zman.

Agree.......give Zack a call FTW :beer:

[soultosoul13]

this situation is terrifying!!
any idea what caused it? im really hoping to get more than 98K out of my trilogy....

[sailsmen]

this situation is terrifying!!
any idea what caused it? im really hoping to get more than 98K out of my trilogy....

A common cause is failure of the intercooler pump. With no IAT2 your PCM does not know the post S/C IAT is hot due to the intercooler pump failure.

Fuel system failure is a also a common cause.

[jstevens]

So I take it when your intercooler pump fails the stock temperature gauge (on the dash) doesn't know the difference?

[soultosoul13]

A common cause is failure of the intercooler pump. With no IAT2 your PCM does not know the post S/C IAT is hot due to the intercooler pump failure.

Fuel system failure is a also a common cause.

so how do you check/maintain the intercooler pump?

[sailsmen]

So I take it when your intercooler pump fails the stock temperature gauge (on the dash) doesn't know the difference?

The stock temp guage is for the radiator coolant only and only moves after your car is toast, ~240*.

[jstevens]

Well, that sucks. Now I will wait for the answer from the other guy about how do you protect against this type of failure (icp)

[DOOM]

I thought the Cobra engine was built for the Eaton S/C model that Trilogy uses?:confused:

Exactly!!! The lower compression is perfect for running high boost! :burnout:

At least that was the way it was explained to me!
Currently running 15-16 psi making 500RWHP.

[sailsmen]

so how do you check/maintain the intercooler pump?

You can check the tank for fluid movement. I don't know if there is a monitoring system available. :confused: With an IAT2 when it does fail at least your PCM knows the Intake Air is HOT!

Mustangs and Fast Fords had a Lightning project car blow at the track. They rebuilt the engine and brought it to a Tuner to put on the Dyno. He shut the Dyno down and they determined the intercooler pump had failed.

[soultosoul13]

you guys are FREAKIN ME OUT!!

[sailsmen]

A scan gugage can give you an idea of what's taking place provided you mount it where you can see it.

Make sure you have the IAT2 or put it in whenever you have the opportunity. I don't know what the duty life is on the intercooler pump.

[slickster]

you guys are FREAKIN ME OUT!!

Well with power adders if you wanna play hard there's more of a chance your gonna pay hard

[FudPucker]

Make me a serious offer.

[RoyLPita]

Make me a serious offer.

You are selling your MM?

[Dennis Reinhart]

Coming back from a trip to the Dells, turned off the tollway in Elgin and noticed it running bad. Pulled into the garage 2 min. later and it sounded like it was coming apart at the seams. Last time I heard an engine like this was my 70 AAR Cuda 340 when I blew it up.

Brought it in to the dealership (I'm not a mechanic and this sounded serious.)
They pulled some plugs and found 2 of them smashed, and black as ****.

Assessment was, scorched at least 2 cylinders. Time for a new engine. This one had 98k on it (bought it 3 years ago in Sept.). It's hauled my butt coast to coast many times, and deserves a transplant.

My question is....has anyone been through this here and where can you get a good rebuilt from, besides FORD. They want $5500 for a rbld.

Then we have the question of can the Trilogy be moved?

Anyone? (I'm lost without my DTR, which otherwise....looks like new!)


I will help any way I can.

[TooManyFords]

Make me a serious offer.

$6000 if it has light flint.

[FudPucker]

You are selling your MM?

Nah. Ordered an Aluminator today (hopefully the order made it in today!). I hate buying stuff that won't come for a week. If I wanted it in a week, I'd buy it a week later! ;-)

I've had people yelling "Cobra Short Block!" and "Aluminator!" since this happened. Jerry Barnes at Trilogy told me to make sure I get the high-compression 10:1. Now 2 people are saying lower-compression is better for high boost? I was only running about 9.5lbs of boost in this thing, but I have to assume Jerry knows what he's talking about.....right?

I'll never find another car as comfortable as this. I would love to buy something new....but I just can't sit comfortably in anything new, plus.....I've never had a car that SO MANY PEOPLE would stop and talk or compliment you on the car!

(wish I was a mechanic......it would be so much easier!)

This intercooler thing has me wondering now. It displayed total symptoms of an over-heating engine, but all the gauges showed absolutely fine. NOW I find out the gauges are cosmetic!

[Dennis Reinhart]

Nah. Ordered an Aluminator today (hopefully the order made it in today!). I hate buying stuff that won't come for a week. If I wanted it in a week, I'd buy it a week later! ;-)

I've had people yelling "Cobra Short Block!" and "Aluminator!" since this happened. Jerry Barnes at Trilogy told me to make sure I get the high-compression 10:1. Now 2 people are saying lower-compression is better for high boost? I was only running about 9.5lbs of boost in this thing, but I have to assume Jerry knows what he's talking about.....right?

I'll never find another car as comfortable as this. I would love to buy something new....but I just can't sit comfortably in anything new, plus.....I've never had a car that SO MANY PEOPLE would stop and talk or compliment you on the car!

(wish I was a mechanic......it would be so much easier!)

This intercooler thing has me wondering now. It displayed total symptoms of an over-heating engine, but all the gauges showed absolutely fine. NOW I find out the gauges are cosmetic!



Amazing phone calls are free

[SC Cheesehead]

this situation is terrifying!!
any idea what caused it? im really hoping to get more than 98K out of my trilogy....

No reason you should have any problems getting over 98K out of your Trilogy set-up, just need to make sure you run it within normal operating parameters, see below.


Well, that sucks. Now I will wait for the answer from the other guy about how do you protect against this type of failure (icp)

Not cetain there's a solution to eliminate failure of these components, but you can sure monitor operating conditions to give you a heads up.


A common cause is failure of the intercooler pump. With no IAT2 your PCM does not know the post S/C IAT is hot due to the intercooler pump failure.

Fuel system failure is a also a common cause.

Exactly. Because they're prone to failure, these systems need to be monitored for indications that they've failed.

I'm running a fuel pressure gauge to monitor pressure under boost, and I'm also monitoring IAT on my Aeroforce Interceptor.

Fuel system failure: indicated fuel pressure will show that (typically run around 30 lbs at idle, and 40+ lbs under engine load). If I see a drop in those pressures, I need to get my fuel system checked out; quick.

Intercooler pump failure: indicated temps will climb (normal operating range is between 110 and 125 degrees depending on ambient temp), and I better check out that I/C pump.

I've also got the 2nd Aeroforce platform set to monitor engine coolant temp during the hot summer months. MY coolant temps typically range between 184 and 200 degrees, again depending on ambient temp and driving conditions. (I'm running a FrozenBoost Type 100 heat exchanger that's mounted in front of the radiator which is one more "layer" to potentially impede air flow through the raidiator). To date, the highest coolant temp I've noted has been 207* in stop and go traffic, 100* ambient. If it climbs above 210*, I'm gonna shut the car down and check for problems.

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