engine block

[LOWBUCKMM]

I have a motor from a 93 mark 8. I have been told its not the same as the Marauder block. Does anyone know.

[LANDY]

It's a teksid block, in my opinion the best aluminum mod block. It's not the same as ours.
Maybe someone knows the difference and can chime in.

[Dennis Reinhart]

It is a very good block to build far better than a Marauder block the tumble port heads will bolt directly on it.

[MOTOWN]

yeah if its out of a mark8 its a teksid block, you can tell by the sqaure pattern on the top of the block, our (mm) blocks have a diamond shape pattern on top, just google your block #, and you will see you have the best aluminum block you can get your hands on, prolly a 6015

[FordNut]

Minor differences, but as already stated it will work just fine and it's a great choice for a buildup.

[LOWBUCKMM]

Ok so the marauer heads will work on it? And what would I need to do to put it in my car. After I built it of course.

[DTUB]

Ok so the marauer heads will work on it? And what would I need to do to put it in my car. After I built it of course.
An engine hoist.
I have one if you need it.

[RacerX]

You'll need to use your front timing cover on it. I think that has a thick reluctor wheel and two piece crank gears, which will work fine. Check chain guides for wear and make sure the tensioners are good.

[CBT]

Okay Brandon, spill it, are you the next Eaton swap, hmmmmmmmmm????

[MOTOWN]

the teksid block is an excellent choice, ill be building my engine with a teksid you wont find a better aluminum block, and some came from the factory with forged cranks.

[LOWBUCKMM]

Okay Brandon, spill it, are you the next Eaton swap, hmmmmmmmmm????

Casey I wont lie to you. Its...........

[LOWBUCKMM]

the teksid block is an excellent choice, ill be building my engine with a teksid you wont find a better aluminum block, and some came from the factory with forged cranks.

So if it has a 8 bolt crank its forged right??

[RacerX]

That's going to have a 6 bolt cast iron crank. I don't think you really need to worry about the crank though. It's the glass pistons and rods I'd worry about. It's been stated by good builders over and over that the Teksids and the WAPs are just as good. FE if you're going 800+...

[MOTOWN]

So if it has a 8 bolt crank its forged right??

correct if it has an 8 bolt crank its forged, and the teksid is a far better block than the wap (windsor) block, and yes the rods, and pistons are the weak links in mod motors.

[LOWBUCKMM]

Well im going to build it for good amounts of boost. So I want it done right.

[MOTOWN]

build that teksid ,and you wont have any regrets! research that block and you will see its good for 1,000plus h.p.

[LOWBUCKMM]

build that teksid ,and you wont have any regrets! research that block and you will see its good for 1,000plus h.p.

Sweet. But is a cast crank good for much power.

[RacerX]

Then you need a forged rotating assembly. Stroker? John @ Modularperformance, Livernois, ModMaxRacing, Sullivanperformance, MMR...
First you want that block stripped down, cleaned, decked, TQ plate honed, then get the assembly in case you need .020 over rings, etc.

[RacerX]

Sweet. But is a cast crank good for much power.
Yes. If you need pistons, rods, bearings, it's cheaper to get the whole assembly with forged crank. Have it all balanced too!

[MOTOWN]

Sweet. But is a cast crank good for much power.

ummm no, if your talking 450h.p., or above you want a forged motor!

for my teksid its getting forged je pistons, manley rods, and a forged stroker crank, put in the good stuff the first time and forget about it;)

[RacerX]

ummm no, if your talking 450h.p., or above you want a forged motor!
BS!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

[MOTOWN]

BS!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

ok bud we are all entitled to our own opinions, but you know what they say about opinions!:beer:

[MOTOWN]

BS!!!!!!! :rolleyes:

its very ironic you say b.s. but yet in your sig you have what? a forged motor! go figure:bs:

[RacerX]

Dude, it's a fact. A cast crank can do 700RWHP. Unless Sean Hyland, John Tymensky and others are wrong...

BTW!!! My forged motor has a balanced 6 bolt cast crank that is good for 700RWHP...

[LOWBUCKMM]

im doing a 5.3 so I should be fine.

[RacerX]

im doing a 5.3 so I should be fine.
HUH? You need a 302 block with a stroker assembly to do that...

[Blackened300a]

Just for curiosity. I have a 99 cobra Teskid block. If I wanted to drop a assembled long block into my Marauder, I would have to swap out the timing cover, flexplate, intake manifold, and what else to make it work?
My entire fuel system and ignition will be from the Marauder. Im just curious about any other snags dropping a long block in.

[RacerX]

Oil filter/cooler location?

[MOTOWN]

Dude, it's a fact. A cast crank can do 700RWHP. Unless Sean Hyland, John Tymensky and others are wrong...

BTW!!! My forged motor has a balanced 6 bolt cast crank that is good for 700RWHP...

im not arguing that fact!, what im saying is why leave the cast crank if your going to go forged rods, and pistons?

and we all know once you turn up the boost, you will be wanting that forged crank for peace of mind!

do it the first go round!

[MOTOWN]

Just for curiosity. I have a 99 cobra Teskid block. If I wanted to drop a assembled long block into my Marauder, I would have to swap out the timing cover, flexplate, intake manifold, and what else to make it work?
My entire fuel system and ignition will be from the Marauder. Im just curious about any other snags dropping a long block in.

you would use all your front dress, and other acc from your engine

[RacerX]

im not arguing that fact!, what im saying is why leave the cast crank if your going to go forged rods, and pistons?

and we all know once you turn up the boost, you will be wanting that forged crank for peace of mind!

do it the first go round!
I did say that... I said rotating assembly. He stated "Sweet. But is a cast crank good for much power." I answered. :cool:
CYAL8R

[LOWBUCKMM]

HUH? You need a 302 block with a stroker assembly to do that...

Well looks like I need to redo my research. That I did over a year ago and forgot about.

[Blackened300a]

you would use all your front dress, and other acc from your engine

Thats what I figured. I have a fellow member interested in buying my teskid block just he was told that it would take a ton of work dropping it in and I told him its not that complicated since he'll be using all the Marauder parts.

[MOTOWN]

Thats what I figured. I have a fellow member interested in buying my teskid block just he was told that it would take a ton of work dropping it in and I told him its not that complicated since he'll be using all the Marauder parts.

with the mm front dress, and acc it will bolt straight in:banana2:

[LANDY]

It's a fact that the cast crank is good for a decent amount of power but if you have the engine apart just forge everything. Done

[MOTOWN]

I did say that... I said rotating assembly. He stated "Sweet. But is a cast crank good for much power." I answered. :cool:
CYAL8R

go ahead mr 700 h.p. cast crank! i hope you like ventilation!:mad2:

there is no way in hell i would even attempt taking a cast crank to 700 hp!

good luck with that, maybe sean will tow you home:beer:

[DTUB]

Just take your block out to 5.0.
A 5.3 is too expensive and some have had head gasket issues.

[MOTOWN]

Just take your block out to 5.0.
A 5.3 is too expensive and some have had head gasket issues.

agreed! best route to go:beer:

[RacerX]

go ahead mr 700 h.p. cast crank! i hope you like ventilation!:mad2:

there is no way in hell i would even attempt taking a cast crank to 700 hp!

good luck with that, maybe sean will tow you home:beer:
R u serious. Why would you wish that on anyone, esp. someone you've never met an would probably stop in the middle of a downpour to help you out on the side of the road if you had a flat. I did an ENORMOUS amount of research on everything and will be soon @ around 520rwhp which is well within safe margins for a cast (AND balanced) crank.

Sorry about the threadjack btw Lowbuck...

BTW. A little info on some relative parts: http://www.mach1registry.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=51 691&d=1298934663

[Seneca]

nice read here guys, As i've got a 98 teksid block waiting for my car too. keep up the posts!

[MOTOWN]

R u serious. Why would you wish that on anyone, esp. someone you've never met an would probably stop in the middle of a downpour to help you out on the side of the road if you had a flat. I did an ENORMOUS amount of research on everything and will be soon @ around 520rwhp which is well within safe margins for a cast (AND balanced) crank.

Sorry about the threadjack btw Lowbuck...


RACERX i would not wish a break down on anyone, i have nothing but respect for you, but clearly we disagree!

i just would not take a cast crank past 450-500 hp, if you feel different i respect that, but it doesnt mean that i would do it.

if we ever meet the first beer is on me bud:beer:

[MOTOWN]

nice read here guys, As i've got a 98 teksid block waiting for my car too. keep up the posts!

oh stay tuned bud! i promise there is more madness in the works!:banana2:

[RacerX]

We agree to disagree. :beer:

[FordNut]

This one got off in the ditch for awhile, eh?

My two cents on several comments...

Teksid block is the best production block to use for a 4.6 buildup or even a 5.0 (5.1?) stroker. The aluminator block is even better.

Internals, a 4.6 cast crank is good for at least 600 rwhp. If I intended to go for 700 or so, I'd put in a forged crank. If I disassembled and found a cast crank that needed turned, I would get a forged crank instead of paying the machining expenses. If you're going for a stroker, it's a forged crank. That's all there is.

If you build a 5.3 or a 5.0 big bore (not stroker) it's best to use the Boss5.0 block. It's cast iron, but it works. The other option is putting sleeves in an aluminum block. That's where the head gasket problems come into play on the 5.3, it's not the 5.3 itself it's the sleeved block.

If you're doing a buildup, it really might be less expensive to get a forged rotating assembly instead of just getting forged pistons, rings, rods. Then you would have a forged crank too.

[CBT]

RACERX i would not wish a break down on anyone, i have nothing but respect for you, but clearly we disagree!

i just would not take a cast crank past 450-500 hp, if you feel different i respect that, but it doesnt mean that i would do it.

if we ever meet the first beer is on me bud:beer:
What about me?! I also disagree with ya if there is free beer involved! :D

[MOTOWN]

What about me?! I also disagree with ya if there is free beer involved! :D

i owe you a free beer for all :censor: jokes you post when im having a tuff day at work:lol:

[CBT]

i owe you a free beer for all :censor: jokes you post when im having a tuff day at work:lol:
You should join the mayhem live at one of the gatherings, lol.

[MOTOWN]

You should join the mayhem live at one of the gatherings, lol.

yeah im going to do my best to make hershey, and meet everyone

[RacerX]

yeah im going to do my best to make hershey, and meet everyone
Ewwwww!!! Please don't do hersey here! :D Leave the skidmarks to ole swamp balls in his chrome thong and flip flops!!

[MOTOWN]

Ewwwww!!! Please don't do hersey here! :D Leave the skidmarks to ole swamp balls in his chrome thong and flip flops!!

you got it bud!:lol:

[LOWBUCKMM]

So how much are the Teksid blocks worth

[Bradley G]

I'll give you a buck three eighty :D
So how much are the Teksid blocks worth

[LOWBUCKMM]

I'll give you a buck three eighty :D

That's a little less then I payed for it

[Joe Walsh]

TEKSIDs usually go for $300 - $400 dollars.

[Bradley G]

I think the range I've seen is 3-5 hundred


That's a little less then I payed for it

[Blackened300a]

TEKSIDs usually go for $300 - $400 dollars.

Thats just for a short block correct? What about a running long block with a steel crank out of a 99 Cobra?

[MOTOWN]

So how much are the Teksid blocks worth

are you looking to sell your teksid?

[Joe Walsh]

Thats just for a short block correct? What about a running long block with a steel crank out of a 99 Cobra?

No, I was just talking about a bare TEKSID block with no guts.

[MOTOWN]

Thats just for a short block correct? What about a running long block with a steel crank out of a 99 Cobra?

its hard to say what a running long block is worth as most are only interested in the block

[LOWBUCKMM]

are you looking to sell your teksid?

No I wont sell it. Just wondering. Cause I payed $40 for a complete motor.

[CBT]

No I wont sell it. Just wondering. Cause I payed $40 for a complete motor.
40 bucks?! WIN! They don't call you lowbuck for nuthin, do they?
Modularford.com, teksids pop up for sale on there, you could cost compare.

[MOTOWN]

No I wont sell it. Just wondering. Cause I payed $40 for a complete motor.

wow! i thought i was the lowball king! i bow down to you bud!:bows::bows:

hey if you come across another let me know, as i havent got mines yet

[LSCR351]

I paid a guy $75 to pull out a 93 Mark 8 motor. I stripped the intake and heads off while it was still the junkyard. And I paid $125 for the Teksid short block.

Now I just sits on my engine stand!

[massacre]

HUH? You need a 302 block with a stroker assembly to do that...


Nope, just need to get the block sleeved.
Like I was telling you, my buddy that has MJchip's old motor, same deal.
Aluminum 4.6 NVH block, sleeved, and stoked. 5.3L

[FordNut]

Nope, just need to get the block sleeved.
Like I was telling you, my buddy that has MJchip's old motor, same deal.
Aluminum 4.6 NVH block, sleeved, and stoked. 5.3L

DO NOT sleeve an aluminum 4.6 block. Been there, done that.