Non-synthetic oil [Archive] - MercuryMarauder.net Forums

DTUB

07-04-2011, 11:46 AM

Who makes the best non-synthetic engine oil?
I'm being told by my tuner (Tim Barth) to stay away from synthetic oils because all it creates is blowby issues in high hp/fi cars.
Kurgan says he runs Rotella in his car but iv'e allways used Royal Purple in the past with no problems.
My engine builder (MMR) recommends Castrol but I feel there must be something better out there.
Anybody running standard type oils out there with big power?
Anyone having blowby problems with synthetics?

fastblackmerc

07-04-2011, 01:42 PM

Chevyguy

07-04-2011, 02:02 PM

Hmm that is a pretty strange reason for not using Synthetic...

Old skool type cyl honing required some wear to seat the rings, and some short block builders tell you to break it in with conventional oil....

JBeezy

07-04-2011, 02:19 PM

Personally I still use Mobil when I change the oil in my other cars. Full synthetic in the marauder

thathotrodlincn

07-04-2011, 02:32 PM

Right or wrong, I use Royal Purple 5w-20.

Bigdogjim

07-04-2011, 02:42 PM

Without starting a "oil war" here oil is all pretty much the same, except between conventional & synthetic. I have been using full synthetic since I got my marauder new. With 32 valves in a dual overhead setup well that a lot of moving parts.

I do not really feel that there is a huge difference between brand's adversting plays a big part. What are all the NASCAR engine builders using??

I have a '95 F-150 I bought 4 years ago next month that had 50K in it grage keep never saw the snow or rain:) I turned it into a DD driver using full synthetic and never look back:)

Out cars came from the Factory with 5W-20 semi-synthetic which is a geat oil for these car and a lot of owners stuck with.

So after all that there is no stock answer to your quesiton!

DTUB

07-04-2011, 03:20 PM

fastblackmerc

07-04-2011, 03:22 PM

MMR recomends conventional oil for first 500 miles and change oil and filter, then 1500 miles and change oil and filter nothing over 4000 rpm and no boost during this breakin period then full synthetic and dyno pulls after that.
I'm thinking that since they offer a 1 year warranty for all long and short blocks they want to make sure the rings are good and seated before it sees any hard abuse.
Tim says he just breaks all his motors in on the chassis dyno with conventional oil but recomends I follow MMR's warranty on this.
Conventional or synthetic :) :( :confused:

Use whatever the manufacturer / rebuilder recommends since you will be going to them for any warranty work.

jstevens

07-04-2011, 03:27 PM

I use full synthetic. Not sure about the blow by issue as I haven't ever looked in there.

FordNut

07-04-2011, 03:29 PM

That's what Tim told me. I didn't listen, used petroleum based oil for breakin then switched to synthetic. Never leaked a drop until I switched to synthetic. Switched back and leaks didn't stop. Wish I'd listened to Tim.

DTUB

07-04-2011, 03:34 PM

It seems that the more power you make the more problems you have with ring seal.

LANDY

07-04-2011, 03:45 PM

It seems that the more power you make the more problems you have with ring seal. does MMR recommends a heavier weigh oil or they want you to stick with 5-20?

DTUB

07-04-2011, 03:49 PM

Can't remember the weight # but they like Castrol for some reason (maybe there John Force fans).

Jesse

07-04-2011, 04:31 PM

I use 5w20 Castrol Syntec... well now its edge. I don't leak or burn a drop... as far as I know at least ;)

FordNut

07-04-2011, 05:08 PM

Oh, and Tim recommended that I use Valvoline dino oil.

slickster

07-04-2011, 06:09 PM

Moble 1 5w20 hade blue smoke on start up for 10 sec one time

RF Overlord

07-05-2011, 08:12 AM

Who makes the best non-synthetic engine oil?There is no such thing as "the best" oil. Pick from any of the majors and you will have good service...Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Exxon/Mobil, Castrol, Kendall, Shell, they're ALL good.
I'm being told by my tuner (Tim Barth) to stay away from synthetic oils because all it creates is blowby issues in high hp/fi cars.I have had more than a passing interest in lubrication and filtration for 20 years and I have NEVER heard this before. What does he consider "high hp"? Quite a few blown Marauder owners here use synthetic and have no issues.
My engine builder (MMR) recommends Castrol but I feel there must be something better out there.See my first answer...

Haggis

07-05-2011, 08:54 AM

There is no such thing as "the best" oil. Pick from any of the majors and you will have good service...Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Exxon/Mobil, Castrol, Kendall, Shell, they're ALL good.I have had more than a passing interest in lubrication and filtration for 20 years and I have NEVER heard this before. What does he consider "high hp"? Quite a few blown Marauder owners here use synthetic and have no issues.See my first answer...

He is not lying, when you get him and Casey together watch out!!! :eek:

Rockettman

07-05-2011, 08:58 AM

...interest in lubrication and filtration for 20 years...

He is not lying, when you get him and Casey together watch out!!! :eek:

That's what she said!

Oh that doesn't work here! Damn...I'll get this right one day :alone:

Chevyguy

07-05-2011, 10:21 AM

MMR recomends conventional oil for first 500 miles and change oil and filter, then 1500 miles and change oil and filter nothing over 4000 rpm and no boost during this breakin period then full synthetic and dyno pulls after that.
I'm thinking that since they offer a 1 year warranty for all long and short blocks they want to make sure the rings are good and seated before it sees any hard abuse.
Tim says he just breaks all his motors in on the chassis dyno with conventional oil but recomends I follow MMR's warranty on this.
Conventional or synthetic :) :( :confused:

One other idea is the builder does not want any idiots trying to go 10,000 miles on their Amsoil with their 430 RWHP car.

"But look at the used oil analysis !!!"

You should be dumping the oil out rather frequently so the advantage of Synthetic is mostly lost. Plus if you use a high Zinc "Racing" oil this is better for wear protection, not so nice for your cats if still running them.

RQS930655

07-05-2011, 10:27 AM

my oil of choice for a 1991 SHO was Penzzoil 5W-30. The car had 34600
miles when I purchsed it back in 1996. When I traded it (2001) it had 130200. I changed oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles. I saw one post that said all conventional oils are the same. That is WRONG--most oils have a additive package particular to that company. The additive package is usually some where between 10-15% of a quart bottle. Hope this helps. Unless you live in a really cold climate--you really do not need the syn oil---their best attribute is the fast flow on cold starts. In this area they are better than the conventional oils. As 80% of engine wear occurs on starts ups--- a fast flowing oil is crucial to long engine life.

SC Cheesehead

07-05-2011, 10:33 AM

There is no such thing as "the best" oil. Pick from any of the majors and you will have good service...Pennzoil, Quaker State, Valvoline, Exxon/Mobil, Castrol, Kendall, Shell, they're ALL good.I have had more than a passing interest in lubrication and filtration for 20 years and I have NEVER heard this before. What does he consider "high hp"? Quite a few blown Marauder owners here use synthetic and have no issues.See my first answer...

Yup, have run Motorcraft semi-syn in both my Marauders from day 1, no issues with either of them, including my Blue after the Eaton swap.

Marauderjack

07-05-2011, 02:21 PM

I run Mobil I 0W30 and 0W20 depending on the season and change every 5K miles......45 or so oil changes later with 227K+ total miles with the last 144K Supercharged I have NO LEAKS.....BURN NO OIL.....and have no particular "Blow-by" problem that I'm aware of!!

I'd like to know the real reason he suggests "Dino Oil" since almost every High Performance application from NASCAR to Top Fuel to Drag Boats and on and on use synthetic!!:beer::bows:

The only thing that makes sense is seating the rings??:cool:

Bigdogjim

07-05-2011, 02:27 PM

my oil of choice for a 1991 SHO was Penzzoil 5W-30. The car had 34600
miles when I purchsed it back in 1996. When I traded it (2001) it had 130200. I changed oil and filter every 3 months or 3000 miles. I saw one post that said all conventional oils are the same. That is WRONG--most oils have a additive package particular to that company. The additive package is usually some where between 10-15% of a quart bottle. Hope this helps. Unless you live in a really cold climate--you really do not need the syn oil---their best attribute is the fast flow on cold starts.(Not only that they coat better and protect on startup like Dino oil can not) In this area they are better than the conventional oils. As 80% of engine wear occurs on starts ups--- a fast flowing oil is crucial to long engine life.

With all the moving parts in daul overhead cam engine I prefere full synthetic:)

DTUB

07-05-2011, 03:23 PM

I have allways run full synthetics in the cars ive built in the past (600 hp or less) using Royal Purple but the other cars ( 500+ ci 1000 hp or more) ive used Penzoil 20-50 racing conventional but change it alot.
This car will be in the 900 hp range at 302 ci and will most likely see more stress than the bigger motors ive run in the past especially in the rings and cylinders.
When guys like Kurgan and Barth who both run deep in the 7's with there cars tell me they never run synthetics its says something about these small ci motors and all the cylinder pressure it takes to run fast.
I think i'll break the motor in on Valvoline conventional 10-30W and switch to Valvoline 10-40W racing conventional after that
I'm not trying to start another oil battle here guys just want to be smart and protect my investment.
Anyone no what that Chevyrauder's running for oil?

JOEMERC

07-05-2011, 04:08 PM

If you want the best oil for your engine go synthetic,if not use regular pretroleum oil,me i prefer the mobil 1 5-20 synthetic,i save the other oils for my lawn mower lol.

GreekGod

07-06-2011, 02:17 PM

I'm being told by my tuner (Tim Barth) to stay away from synthetic oils because all it creates is blowby issues in high hp/fi cars.

^B.S.^

Now, positive anecdotal experience is fine, but it is not scientific, just as a negative experience is much less scientific. Find out what they use in the new 500+hp Shelbys. Find out what they use in new high output Corvettes. What did they use in the Ford GT?

anecdotal>
based on someone’s personal experience or information rather than on facts that can be checked

--------------------

LANDY

07-06-2011, 03:46 PM

you guys have to remember these are not factory build engines, Dtub is getting a custom build and they can have different clearances. Just saying

fastblackmerc

07-06-2011, 05:51 PM

you guys have to remember these are not factory build engines, Dtub is getting a custom build and they can have different clearances. Just saying

That's why I said to go with the break-in procedure that his builder recommends.

Motorhead350

07-07-2011, 07:34 AM

The Z man says synthetic is a waste of money for our cars, even high 11 second cars. Valvoline FTW!

Bigdogjim

07-07-2011, 08:00 AM

The Z man says synthetic is a waste of money for our cars, even high 11 second cars. Valvoline FTW!

Well Z-man know's little of what he speaks.

Way too many moving parts in a 32V DOHC engine.

Motorhead350

07-07-2011, 08:28 AM

Well Z-man know's little of what he speaks.

I couldn't disagree more. He knows more than anyone on these cars.... anyone.

I'm not going to argue, but I know he would say "Go ahead and waste your money."

RF Overlord

07-07-2011, 09:42 AM

I'll try to explain it again:

Synthetic oil has the following (more or less) advantages over conventional:

1) Lower pour point. This is good if you regularly drive the Ice Roads from Yellowknife to the Diavic diamond mine.

2) High resistance to oxidation. This is good if you regularly haul 4 morbidly obese people and their luggage for a week through Death Valley in August.

3. Superior additive pack. This is good if you have a dirty engine.

If none of these abilities is needed in your application, then Z-man is right...there's no NEED to run synthetic. Using a good conventional oil changed at intervals appropriate for the use the vehicle gets is all that's necessary. In *most* cases, synthetic's only real value is to provide peace of mind.

I forgot one other factor:

4) If you drive a car where the manufacturer requires the use of synthetic, like the Corvette C6, etc.

Motorhead350

07-07-2011, 09:48 AM

2) High resistance to oxidation. This is good if you regularly haul 4 morbidly obese people and their luggage for a week through Death Valley in August.

.

What?

:lol:

RF Overlord

07-07-2011, 10:11 AM

Tolerates high temperatures better without degrading.

Motorhead350

07-07-2011, 10:25 AM

I know what you meant, I just thought how you worded it was funny.

SC Cheesehead

07-07-2011, 10:37 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RF Overlord http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1065116#post1 065116)

2) High resistance to oxidation. This is good if you regularly haul 4 morbidly obese people and their luggage for a week through Death Valley in August.

.

What?

:lol:

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking.

I've never been to Death Valley... ;)

Bigdogjim

07-07-2011, 02:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by RF Overlord http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/images/buttons/viewpost.gif (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1065116#post1 065116)
2) High resistance to oxidation. This is good if you regularly haul 4 morbidly obese people and their luggage for a week through Death Valley in August.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking.

So that why they told me to use full synthetic:lol: :lol: