Transmission failure, 27400 miles

[Mad4Macs]

On the way to work this morning, the RPM's went UP, the MPH went DOWN and there was no more Drive.
Put it in 2nd and hobbled into the dealer at 35 MPH.
I'll post as soon as the dealer gives me an update. Rear pinion seal failed at 20,000, dumped axle oil on my driveway. Check engine light at 22,000 due to a chafed wiring harness...
FORD... I hope you guys are tracking this. This car is almost one year old and is in service again.
:mad2:

Edited due to illiteracy ;)

[Dr Caleb]

Dude! That sucks!

Wanna bet it's the spiral ring thingie on the O/D?

[jgc61sr2002]

Mad - At least it is covered by warranty.:D

[Dennis Reinhart]

Well, I was going to wait but I will let you all know what I have found, first of all I have had two rebuilt transmissions fail do to the sub shaft breaking, this is a hardened shaft, that should never have failed upon examination we found the casting was not solid I will post pictured later on, so now I am going to include an after market stub shaft in my kit. Mike Eaton left my garage today he spent three days here, I did complete exhaust and underdrives and installed the trans cooler and was just going to a minor up grade, on his Transmission, upon tear down the transmission was smoked, both the #1 and #2 accumulator piston lips were torn and cut from improper install from Ford all the clutches were toast, so Mike had the whole trans built Bullit proof we also installed the real oil pressure gauge and a transmission temp gauge, I enjoyed having him here, I am sure he will post something, so I will let you all know when the full trans kit will be available. His car had 24K I kept all the old parts and we are hoping Ford may help with the cost.

[TAF]

What is going on with these trannys??!!

I must say I (and I think several others here) are VERY concerned about this. And I (maybe I'm the only one here) am still confused with what exactly continues to fail. I realize there have been several, excellent and detailed posts on here...so PLEASE don't take this as an opportunity to produce more detailed info.


What I want to know is: (and help me out here anyone if you agree with these or want to add more)

1) Should I get to my dealer soon...tell them I think I have a problem in the tranny and make them brake it open to check it thoroughly since I'm still under warranty. (I'm at 24K miles)

Or

2)Is there a kit for X amount of $s that I can buy and work my own deal with a local tranny expert for this kit to fix any potential issues and get this out of my mind.

Or

3) What is the approximate cost to have a complete rebuild...make this thing "bullet-proof" so I never have to worry again.

Thanks and I'm sorry if I'm the only one with these simple (and maybe stupid) questions.

[67435animal]

Todd, my attitude on this is the car is under warranty so I'm not going to fix it if it isn't broken.

I also purchased the extended warranty (I know you're waiting until that last mile to get yours) and it will still be under warranty until 75000 miles.

When and if the time comes I'll ask loads of questions about the rebuilding or replacement transmission.

Anywho, that's all for now, folks!

Bob

[Zack]

A transmission thats toast on the inside can and will act like nothing is wrong. When it goes, it usually gives little to no warning. They cant even handle 260rwhp it seems.
How many N/A Marauders have broken now?
How many S/C Marauders?

[TAF]

Originally posted by Zack
A transmission thats toast on the inside can and will act like nothing is wrong. When it goes, it usually gives little to no warning. They cant even handle 260rwhp it seems.
How many N/A Marauders have broken now?
How many S/C Marauders?

That's my point Zack. And I trust you as an experienced wrench. I just want to know which of the 3 above and how much.

[Mad4Macs]

I cannot WAIT to hear from my dealer, now that I've heard from the members here. JEEZ!!! I accelerate frequently with this car, but I'm not abusive. I haven't even broke 90 in it yet :) I've NEVER had a tranny failure, and I've owned quite a few cars. I've got ESP and plenty of coverage yet, but you can bet your collective arse's that I'm getting a professional rebuild before the warranty expires. Guys? ESP may be worth the price of admission if these trannies are that flimsy, but I'd seriously consider a tear down and rebuild at this point.
Still waiting to hear from my dealer :)
Glen

[Mad4Macs]

PS...
And I was getting over my fear of SHO cam failures!!!

[sailsmen]

My wife drives a 2001 Econoline 150 w/ the Traveler package. No trailering or cargo hauling only 2 small children in a metro area.

@16K miles the trans, same type as our MM failed & was removed/replaced under warranty, now @38K miles it is exhibiting the same symptoms.

If what others have reported is widespread it appears to be from improper assembly, i.e. damaging parts by banging them on or tearing parts by forcing them on all done during assembly.
:(

[Bigdogjim]

Originally posted by TAF
What is going on with these trannys??!!

I must say I (and I think several others here) are VERY concerned about this. And I (maybe I'm the only one here) am still confused with what exactly continues to fail. I realize there have been several, excellent and detailed posts on here...so PLEASE don't take this as an opportunity to produce more detailed info.


What I want to know is: (and help me out here anyone if you agree with these or want to add more)

1) Should I get to my dealer soon...tell them I think I have a problem in the tranny and make them brake it open to check it thoroughly since I'm still under warranty. (I'm at 24K miles)

Or

2)Is there a kit for X amount of $s that I can buy and work my own deal with a local tranny expert for this kit to fix any potential issues and get this out of my mind.

Or

3) What is the approximate cost to have a complete rebuild...make this thing "bullet-proof" so I never have to worry again.

Thanks and I'm sorry if I'm the only one with these simple (and maybe stupid) questions.

Todd This is neither simple or stupid. I forone have the same questions.
You just had the nerve to post before the rest of us.

Ok so what the answer?

Please just tell me I do not have to go see the dealer that sold me the car:help: :confused: :alone: :mad2:

[TAF]

I just want to know:

Take it to the dealer, demand they open her up and either prove me wrong and that everything is alright or fix it under warranty.

Buy a "kit" from someone which will allow the much talked about "J-mod" for $200/$300 whatever and get a tranny expert to put it in for $200/$300 whatever (I don't know what the price would/should be...just looking for ANYONE who has a clue)

Or spend $800/$1,200 and get a complete/"bullet-proof" tranny.

That's all I want to know. I'm ready to take on the dealer for warranty or write the checks...I just don't want to have happen to me what I've heard from FAR too many members now.

Thanks

[schuvwj]

Todd, from what Sailsman commented about having his trany re-worked twice it sounds like we need to write a check and take the bullet proof route!

What good is a dealer/stock trany fix now if the it dies again in 15,000 miles? It's like pay me now or pay me later!

[cruzer]

I'm dropping the pan on my tranny Monday week--@ 18,000 miles the fluid is slightly discolored and a faint smell---better safe than sorry---will keep you posted.

[FordNut]

I wouldn't say it's a general problem with all the 4R70W trannys. My work vehicle is a 2002 E150, 4.6L, 4R70W. It has 63,000 hard miles on it and hasn't had any tranny problems at all. BUT I plan to have a bulletproof tranny put in my MM after I finish all the performance mods. Then after the tranny it'll be on to the brakes.

[RCSignals]

Originally posted by TAF
I just want to know:

Take it to the dealer, demand they open her up and either prove me wrong and that everything is alright or fix it under warranty.



I'd say yes. If this is a Ford problem from assembly, they need to know about, they need to record these events, and they need to take care of it.

[DetGeno]

Will having a aftermarket drive-shaft void your warranty?

[DetGeno]

Mad4Macs what is your MM model is it a 300A or B and which dealership are you using? Any mods? I am using Bob Borst & Bob Maxey!

[wchain]

Originally posted by FordNut
I wouldn't say it's a general problem with all the 4R70W trannys. My work vehicle is a 2002 E150, 4.6L, 4R70W. It has 63,000 hard miles on it and hasn't had any tranny problems at all.

I have to agree. One of my accounts has 10 Ford Cargo Vans (2001-2003) 4.2L V6 and 4R70W Transmisisons, with anywhere between 15,000 and 180,000 miles on them. These vans are driven HARD everyday and overloaded on a regular basis (Courier/Freight Company). The 01s (which all have over 150K on them) have had ZERO problems. I serviced the transmissions at 100K (Drop Pan, New Filter, Drain Converter etc) and replaced with some Motorcraft Mercon V Fluid and they have been going strong.

Go figure.

I would imagine with as wide an application that the 4R70W has (all Automatic 4.6L Mustangs; CV,GM,TC,MM; Certain Ford Vans, F150s, and 4.6L Expeditions) if there was a big problem Ford Couldn't hide from it for very long.

There must be some kind of driveline combination that is causing this....Just rambling....

[jfclancy]

Well this sort of fits in with the Service notes on Tranny fluid, simular to Cruzer I am at almost 18k but I have already had my fluid recycled then had the pan dropped and filter changed. The fluid was very dark per the tech his quote was he had seen some cars with 75,000 miles on same tranny and not shown that much discoloization. As for mr mine seems th shift a lot better crsp and not "mushy" with the new fluid in it. Oh by the way the filter seemed okay and some metal filing but "normal". what ever that means.

Joe Clancy

[Marauderjack]

Seems to me that Ford is "admitting guilt" by changing the transmission in the 2004 to a 4R75W??:confused: Why not have the dealer install one of these (if it is actually better) rather than spend a bunch of time and money on the 4R70W!!!:(

I don't have many miles on mine and all seems OK....EXCEPT THE DAMN GOOFY SHIFTING......on light acceleration!!! :mad2:

Marauderjack:cool:

[Murader03]

Well, I'll throw my $.02 in. I've got 44.5K on my '03 "A". The tranny was serviced as per the Ford recommended service schedule. I run 4.10's with the MMD shaft, and a DR performance chip. So far, I have been unable to detect any tranny problems. I don't baby the car, as as can be seen, it's getting mileage built up. The car is a daily driver, and I've had some stop light to stop light fun with it. I've also had some equally strong down shifts at speed during two lane passing and other things. Every couple of weeks during my drive to work, at night, on 4 lane, no traffic around, I'll drop the hammer at 70 and let her go to about 130. The downshift is hard and fast, the up shifts are firm and solid, no probelms detected.....

[Mad4Macs]

A quickie...
She's a 300 "A", no mods (unless the stereo counts). The tranny is fried. I do push it, but it has never been on the strip or anything. I've never, ever done anything like "neutral drops", but I have, on occasion, manually shifted it. Maybe it has always been soft... I've never gotten a chirp between gears, not even on wet pavement. If you've read things from me before, though, you'll notice that I've complained about my tranny for quite a while ;)
Problem for me is, that this is the 3rd time in 8 months that my MM has been in for *defects* in materials and/or workmanship. I don't whine about little things, either. I drag it in when she's become undrivable. There's a incredibly loud squeek up front, and I've finally asked the dealer to try and hunt it down.
It's sad, but my dear old mother has an '87 Jimmie with 175,000 miles on it, and it has been less trouble for her than my shiny MM was for me at 20k.
Grrr!

[Mark McQuaide]

Our first family car was a '91 Taurus wagon which was pretty much shot after 50k miles (tranny failure, bad paint, multiple other things), so I hedged my bet by getting a 100,000 mile warranty on the "Rauder. I guess it's like paying a premium to make up for Ford's lack of quality. Of course I'll probably never see a problem now that I spent the money!

But every time I drive the car, all is forgotten.

Oh, and I forgot to mention,

E-A-G-L-E-S EAGLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[TAF]

O.K.

So far RC suggests going the Dealer/Warranty route. Thanks RC. Although I have to agree with the comment from Bill Schuver that what's good about having them "fix" it if it is going to be just fixed with parts to make it worked like it did out of the factory...have we not come to at least the assumption (and maybe not the full conclusion) that there is something inherantly wrong with the MM tranny?

So...the dealer option is there...I'm still waiting for some specific solutions for a rebuild with the approximate $ cost for a kit or rebuild. I'm sorry to keep asking this over and over folks but what are the $ numbers? What is the cost of a "kit"? Does anybody have a "kit"? Dennis? Jerry Barnes? Pandes? Lidio? ANYONE?
Hello??!!! Is this thing on??!!

Testing....1-2....Testing.

[TAF]

Anyone?:help:

[RCSignals]

have we not come to at least the assumption (and maybe not the full conclusion) that there is something inherantly wrong with the MM tranny?

I don't think I'd go that far.
I still say you should go the dealer route for the reasons i mentioned. what will it cost you in $ under warranty? if after that you want other parts in your transmission, go for it, but IF there is a widespread problem, it's important that Ford be made aware of it and track it, The only way that is going to happen is to take it to the dealer. Taking them a box of parts from someone elses "autopsy" just isn't the same

[marauder307]

Hmmmm.....

Had my first trans service done at ~9000 on the odo; the dealer and service tech both looked at me funny. "Gee Mr. Quinby, you could easily let this thing go all the way to 15000 before getting this service done." I made 'em do both the pan drain-and-drop AND the full transmission flush. At just over 12000, my trans feels as good as it always has...still feels like I'm getting two shifts for the price of one when it goes up through each gear; my theory is that torque converter that the magazines damned in the road tests. What I'm probably feeling is first the TC locking, and then the shift. This effect doesn't show itself under hard acceleration; probably overwhelms the TC and the whole mechanism locks and shifts simultaneously.

All this theorizing from someone who quite honestly couldn't tell a half-shaft from a drive shaft. Going out on a limb here,....anybody know anything else?

[Mark McQuaide]

The converter only locks under light throttle. When you're crusising along and accelerate to pass, at first the converter unlocks and the RPMs jump a little, then it downshifts. During a normal upshift, it shifts gears first, then the converter locks up and the RPMs drop a little. Kind of like an extra set of gears. I'm not sure why it's so noticeable in the Marauder - maybe because you can hear the exhaust note so clearly. Once I got used to it I kind of like squeezing the throttle down and unlocking the TC prior to downshift.

[TripleTransAm]

It's probably more noticeable in the Marauder because of the high stall speed of the converter. There's a greater difference between the locked RPM and the unlocked RPM.

In my GTA with its circa-1600 RPM stall speed, I'll be driving along, catch 3rd at about 25 kph (yeah, it's an economy minded shift pattern too, only it's valve-body controlled, not PCM) and the RPMs will hover in the 1400-1600 range, depending on my throttle setting.

Then the TCC will kick in at 37 kph under light load, and whammo I'm down to 1000 RPM in one shot. It's not a big deal with my low-end-torque tuned motor (in fact, the car starts accelerating once the TCC locks up!).

On the MM, for a greater portion of time, you're hovering at 2500-2700 RPM and then all of a sudden the TCC locks up and you're down into the mid teens. And the 4.6l falls flat on its face. Totally the opposite feeling compared with my GTA.

That's why revised calibrations that raise the TCC engagement speed make it less noticeable... maybe the RPM will drop to 2000 or higher, from its unlocked speed of 2500-2700, under acceleration... definitely less of a noticeable drop, and it still leaves the DOHC in somewhat of a power band.

[Mad4Macs]

Ok, wrenches! What would the bill have been if I'd been out of warranty?
Burnt direct clutches
Overdrive band replaced
Overhaul valve body
Replace torque converter.
2W3Z-7902-AARM
F8AZ-7153-AB
F6AZ-7A098-A
F2TZ-7F196-A
F6AZ-7B442-AA (6)
F8AZ-7B164-BA
XT-5-QM (12 QTS)
F7AZ-7H292-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA
Labor 10.6 hours.

Yes, I am considering "bullit proofing" the trans now...

[sailsmen]

In 2000 for a complete rebuild of an AODE by the dealer it was 1,400.

[Mark McQuaide]

It's probably more noticeable in the Marauder because of the high stall speed of the converter. There's a greater difference between the locked RPM and the unlocked RPM.

On the MM, for a greater portion of time, you're hovering at 2500-2700 RPM and then all of a sudden the TCC locks up and you're down into the mid teens. And the 4.6l falls flat on its face. Totally the opposite feeling compared with my GTA.

That's why revised calibrations that raise the TCC engagement speed make it less noticeable... maybe the RPM will drop to 2000 or higher, from its unlocked speed of 2500-2700, under acceleration... definitely less of a noticeable drop, and it still leaves the DOHC in somewhat of a power band.

Nice explanation as usual Steve. :bows:

[Glenn]

I guess I am one of the lucky MM owners. 16,000 abusive miles in 6 months, 80% at 70-80+ mph, too numerous WOT to count, tire burning, dozens of century marks and beyond, etc. Still have a terrific WOT trans controlled 2-3 speed shift that lifts the hood noticeably going into third. I am a firm believer in Jerry's dyno-tune engine (266 RWHP) and transmission programming. I will continue to drive the MM as it was produced, advertised and marketed. If it breaks I will use my warranty/ESP, but I am not lifting my foot it is too much fun for an old hot rodder. I still get raves when I pull in for gas and people still ask me what it is. See you in Indy and a blast around the track at 140 mph (the last time I did it was in my 1964 Falcon Sprint with a hipo 289). Hopefully by then I will have a new exhaust system and another 25 HP.

Glenn
"South Atlanta's only MM"

[Mad4Macs]

I guess I am one of the lucky MM owners.

No, I don't believe that it's a matter of luck. I don't believe that these transmissions are all faulty, either. The sheer number of these units that are in service, fleet service, that is, would mean that if it were a faulty design, there would be 10's of thousands of failures.
That being said, however, there is a problem somewhere. I've never met or talked to Mr Reinhart, but from the testimonials I've read here, he sounds like a pretty straight-up kind of guy. He has posted that he has identified and addressed flaws in this transmission. Design flaws? No. Quality control and assembly line flaws, possibly even flaws resulting from cost cutting measures.
Regardless of where the problems origininate from, I got bit :) Warranty covered the repairs and my dealership absolutely ROCKED in getting my car back to me in what amounted to 48 hours. Warrenty's do expire, though, so I will be have my trans looked at by a reputable shop. I do not relish the thought of a $1400+ repair bill...
Thanks to all of you for your input, and drive these cars like they were meant to be driven. I sure will!!!

[TripleTransAm]

I don't believe that these transmissions are all faulty, either. The sheer number of these units that are in service, fleet service, that is, would mean that if it were a faulty design, there would be 10's of thousands of failures.


Here's some food for thought... isn't the Marauder the first application for the 4R70W where it's fed by a high-stall-speed torque converter while trying to tug a 4000+ lb behemoth through really tall rear tires? I imagine the sudden whack on the tranny from a DOHC V8 at 2700 or more RPM in a Marauder must be considerably harsher than what would be experienced by a more sedate launch RPM from a SOHC V8 at much less RPM?

In any case, I used to think it was just a matter of quality control going down the *****ter, but with Dennis' recent feedback I'm beginning to think the 4R70W just wasn't engineered for this kind of application. Or at the very least, wasn't engineered to take into account possible lapses in quality control, when used in this kind of application.

I wonder if those with 4.10s are seeing less tranny failures? Or perhaps the eased load on the tranny from the 4.10s is offset by the increased power from a chip, so in the end it all evens out and 4.10-equipped users are just as prone to failure?

[cruzer]

I'm dropping the pan on my tranny Monday week--@ 18,000 miles the fluid is slightly discolored and a faint smell---better safe than sorry---will keep you posted.
Took the Marauder in to John Eagle L/M this morning--they dropped the tranny pan and took me back to the work bay--the mechanic took the pan outside in the sun and there was not even any slight sparkles from any metal--the magnetic plug was the same way as was the filter. The fluid was brownish and had a slight odor---otherwise all O K. He replaced the filter and then backflushed the whole sustem. Runs smmoth and smooth--well worth the money for the peace of mind... :)

[Mad4Macs]

Took the Marauder in to John Eagle L/M this morning...

Cruzer... I do not believe that the sky is falling. I had a GROSS malfunction of my trans and I posted about my experience. I do NOT want to spook people on this board. I have, however, heard some really intelligent reasons forwarded as to prepping these cars before going out of warranty, and I'm likely to agree with these folks... The owner of Kenny Brown Marauder S, Build #03004MSE-1x of 25, has NOT had a failure and cars like his are stressed WAY more than mine ever was... yet Dennis and other vendors here have written about long standing "design flaws".
I got bit once, under warranty, and I'm a little gun-shy about the future, so I'm going to take some precautions. Your milage may vary :)

[JohnE]

I have 81k on my 4R70W now. At around 20k I installed a chip with the same programming Dennis supplies. This made my shifts firm and quick. So far I've changed my Mercon V four times, about every 20k. For the last 10k I've been putting 322ft-lb to the rear wheels. I performed the j-mods to my valve body just prior to installing the supercharger.

As you can imagine having a s/c, I drive hard. I also tow a boat long distances several times a year. So far no tranny troubles for me.

I am disappointed to read that many of you are having such problems. The 4R70W has been around for a good while and should not be experiencing these failures.

John

[SergntMac]

The owner of Kenny Brown Marauder S, Build #03004MSE-1x of 25, has NOT had a failure and cars like his are stressed WAY more than mine ever was...
My apologies to Mad4Macs, but this isn't true.

Last September, enroute to Marauderville I, my tranny lost OD on the highway. It came back once the car cooled down from long hard highway driving, to the point where I was ready to race at our FFW. Dennis advised me not to risk that, and I heeded his advice. The OD continued to slip and fall out on the way home, and clearly it was affected by long periods of high speed driving.

Once I got home, I pulled the tranny and took it the the man who knows this tranny better than anyone, Jerry W. This was one of the shortest autopsies I've ever attended, he knew what was wrong before we saw it. The internals were a mess, trashed "c" clip that retains the intermediate clutch pack in place, burnt clutches, and scored drum. A hand full of durable high performance parts, some retuning of my valve body and ECM, and I was fixed in one day, including the round trip drive from Chicago to Detroit.

Jerry said there are ten known reasons why the OD burns up, and all of them are related to certain conditions inside the tranny. One of them is a malfunctioning accumulator pump, and mine was trashed from the assembly line. The pump was forced into place, with evidence of beating it with something hammer-like, the cap lip was twisted back behind itself. Clearly, an assembly line problem, not a design flaw.

I'm not an expert on this, but I think I can understand the difference between a design flaw and poor QC. Nothing I saw inside my tranny or learned from Jerry supports design flaws. It does support lazy/unsupervised production line employees, and we've seen evidence of this all along, hell, Dennis is working on an '04 right now that has the wrong tranny installed from the factory! What more do we need to know in order to nail this down?

Still, there are things you can do to your 4R70W to improve performance and longevity, and I suggest you take things a step at a time.

1) Change your fluid and filter often, 12-15K miles. It's not that expensive and you can monitor conditions. Consider adding a tranny temp gauge, heat is the #1 killer of the 4R70W.

2) If you have changed the rear end gear, the "forced tail shaft lube" mod should be considered. That tail shaft bearing gets no additional lube other than what may splash back against it under acceleration, and the higher rear end gear increases the normal wear factor on that bearing, perhaps doubling that, depending on how you drive.

3) If you tow, race, or, drive at high speeds (80-90 MPH OTR) for long periods of time (gast tank to gas tank) on a regular basis, consider adding an additional cooler to the OEM cooler in place. A deeper pan with more fluid makes sense to some here, that's fine. But, I'm content that a pan with cooling fins and a drain plug is sufficent. A matter of preference, yes?

4) If you have electronically changed your shifting via the ECM, and you like it so much you're heading out to the race track every chance you get, do yourself a favor and consider the "J-Mods." Dennis has two kits available to make it easy for you to switch that control over to the tranny's manual valve body. But, remember to get retuned so the ECM doesn't fight with the tranny for control.

These are simple and cost effective mods for those of you who are really enjoying the MM to it's full potential. Most of you are content where you're at from the factory, and this is good too. Nice to have options either way.

[01True BlueGT]

Ok, wrenches! What would the bill have been if I'd been out of warranty?
Burnt direct clutches
Overdrive band replaced
Overhaul valve body
Replace torque converter.
2W3Z-7902-AARM
F8AZ-7153-AB
F6AZ-7A098-A
F2TZ-7F196-A
F6AZ-7B442-AA (6)
F8AZ-7B164-BA
XT-5-QM (12 QTS)
F7AZ-7H292-AB
1L3Z-7C155-AA
Labor 10.6 hours.

Yes, I am considering "bullit proofing" the trans now...

These prices are each, for each part in order.
$215.98
$96.00
$26.64
$13.70
$4.22
$3.00
$3.50
$7.27
$1.74
and our shop get $85/hr cash labor.
Those prices are suggested list.

[SergntMac]

These prices are each, for each part in order.
$215.98
$96.00
$26.64
$13.70
$4.22
$3.00
$3.50
$7.27
$1.74
and our shop get $85/hr cash labor.
Those prices are suggested list.

Any chance you could name the parts?

[01True BlueGT]

Any chance you could name the parts?

2W3Z-7902-AARM $215.98 TORQUE CONV.
F8AZ-7153-AB $96.00 TRANS KIT
F6AZ-7A098-A $26.64 FILTER KIT
F2TZ-7F196-A $13.70 BAND ASSY
F6AZ-7B442-AA (6) $4.22 REV. CLUTCH PL
F8AZ-7B164-BA $3.00 FRICTION PLATE
XT-5-QM (12 QTS) $3.50 MERCON V
F7AZ-7H292-AB $7.27 2-3 PISTON
1L3Z-7C155-AA $1.74 VALVE BODY GSKT
Labor 10.6 hours. $85.00/HR

[metroplex]

Here's some food for thought... isn't the Marauder the first application for the 4R70W where it's fed by a high-stall-speed torque converter while trying to tug a 4000+ lb behemoth through really tall rear tires?

99-up Crown Vic Police Interceptors and 00-up CVs with the HPP had the 11.25" torque converter used on the Mark VIII and GT... ~2200 RPM stall - not a very high stall converter but a big improvement over the stock 12" converter that would balloon over 5000 RPM.

IIRC the 98-00 Crown Vics were roughly 4150 lb race weight and the 03 Marauders were near 4300 lb! (we weighed Russ's 99 CVPI at E-town and I think Constable and Mike said their Marauders weighed 4300 lb or so...)

My dad's 2003 E-250 with the 5.4 also has a 4R70W... new Marauders are supposed to come out with a 4R75W.

I plan to switch all the tranny fluids over to Amsoil ATF. The Mercon-V semi-synth stuff doesn't seem to cut it in cold weather and can't take extreme heat.

Anyone hear of similar failures with the Mustang GT 4R70W?

I'm not sure where your 4R70Ws are coming from... but my Vic's 4R70W came from Livonia, MI - not the Sharonville, OH plant if that makes any difference whatsoever.

[Mad4Macs]

Yes... I should have checked a little deeper in the threads before throwing out the comment about SergntMac...this site has a wealth of info on it!
Now, and this is likely due to being trained as a machinest on a nuclear powered attack sub, I find it APPALLING to hear that someone "beat" a part into place. Good advice has been given from a number of sources... I believe that we should all follow scheduled maintanence and I'm letting FoMoCo handle warranty related repairs, if for no other reason than it lets them know that there's a problem somewhere, but I'm still going to have a reputable shop look at bullet proofing my trans ;)

[jgc61sr2002]

I have to agree with the Sarge that changing the transmission fluid is most important. I had 250,000 miles on a 1989 Pontiac Sunbird ( 4 cyl) with the original transmission. Had the trans. serviced every 25 K.

[cruzer]

I am sorry that my post was not taken in the spirit intended. I am a "preventitive maint man"--if you think you might have a problem brewing--take a good look at it before something catastrophic happens (22,000+ hours flying has taught me that the hard way). My fluid started changing color about 12,ooo mi and I watched it closely--by 18.5M it was brown, not pink, so I did what I felt I should do--had it checked--I was VERY happy nothing was found , but am seriously considering an additional tranny cooler (Texas heat, you know). I will watch it and the forums very closely in the future---life is too short to spend time fretting--let's go have some fun :rock:

[metroplex]

Use Amsoil ATF and change the fluid every 30k to 50k. Much better in cold weather and at higher temps than Mercon-V.

[Mikeenh]

Since it's real cold in NH, I thought I'd run down to Florida and have Dennis do a few mods. I have 26,000 miles on my MM with no problems.
I wanted to make sure my transmission wouldn't strand me many miles from home. I would rather be proactive with this, so I wanted the Reinhart transmission kit installed. After sending the transmission to Dennis' specialist, they said your transmission is burnt up. The 1 - 2 accumulator pistons were improperly installed at the factory. You could see the cut in the rubber. My snap ring was half off too. I had NO transmission trouble up to this point.
I'm trying to get Ford to pay for PART of this, but it doesn't look good.
Dennis went out of his way to get me back on the road and did his usual FIRST CLASS service. Thanks Dennis

[greyghost]

Since it's real cold in NH, I thought I'd run down to Florida and have Dennis do a few mods. I have 26,000 miles on my MM with no problems.
I wanted to make sure my transmission wouldn't strand me many miles from home. I would rather be proactive with this, so I wanted the Reinhart transmission kit installed. After sending the transmission to Dennis' specialist, they said your transmission is burnt up. The 1 - 2 accumulator pistons were improperly installed at the factory. You could see the cut in the rubber. My snap ring was half off too. I had NO transmission trouble up to this point.
I'm trying to get Ford to pay for PART of this, but it doesn't look good.
Dennis went out of his way to get me back on the road and did his usual FIRST CLASS service. Thanks Dennis
I am scheduled to deliver my pride and joy SBM to Dennis on the 29th. He is going to have the Level II with cooler and Hi Stall Converter installed. I have been very cautious on doing any hard acceleration runs as the tranny shifts a bit funny even with the chip upgrade. After this it will be brakes, stronger bottom end, and then the big Vortex kit. Probably need to strengthen the readr end and rear suspension before the Blower.