Saddened...

[maraudermetz]

After recently having problems with my radiator fan, now I think I have a dead compressor for the air ride. My light is on and my car looks like it has a lowering kit on it. When I first start my car, no light. However, after about twenty minutes the air ride light turns on. What oh what do I do now. I have searched the threads to no avail, the search option never helps. Im starting to get real angry at my MM. What do you guys think the problem is?

[Bradley G]

yeah, that's a bummer.
I had the compressor and the height switch go bad together.
the switch stuck causing the motor to run excessive.
The tray below the motor has no effective weep holes.
There are guys here that have rebuilts from time to time.

[a_d_a_m]

I think I have a dead compressor for the air ride. My light is on and my car looks like it has a lowering kit on it. When I first start my car, no light. However, after about twenty minutes the air ride light turns on. What do you guys think the problem is? Check underneath the car. The symptoms you are describing are exactly what my car was doing a month ago.

There is a rod that connects the rear air ride sensor to the rear suspension. Mine was disconnected. If the rod is disconnected but still up there, you can try popping it back on and see if that helps. If it comes disconnected again, a little epoxy will help it stay on.

If that's your problem, the fix is cheap enough!

[kmastl]

If you decide you need a working air ride pump I have one for sale in the for sale section. I replaced it because it was getting a little loud but it is fully functional.

[4drcbra]

When you replace go ahead and drill some drain holes in the mounting plate too. I used to be heavy into mini trucks and just fabricated my own plate and used an aftermarket air compressor from Viar

[J-MAN]

Maybe Scatterbrain350 will chime in and add some photos to show the difference between the compressor and the ABS unit. :eek:

[RF Overlord]

Have you checked the fuses/relays? Made sure no one bumped the RAS switch in the trunk?

If your compressor is truly dead (and that isn't by any means uncommon), many of us have had good luck with replacements from Arnott (http://www.arnottindustries.com/part_FORD_Air_Suspension_Parts _yid1_pid9.html). It's a very simple job to DIY.

[fesifisky]

If the compressor is definitely dead and you're in a pinch, one from a junked lincoln around the same year will work to get them inflated and you can disconnect it after(just make sure to turn off the switch in the trunk). The mounts don't exactly match up, so you'd have to do a lil customization for it to be permanent.

[QWK SVT]

I traded my dead compressor for a rebuilt, froma member on here (Richy04). He really went out his way to help, and the rebuilt unit looked better than new - including a couple of coat of paint and clearcoat, to seal everything up from the elements :up:

[MrBluGruv]

I swapped out the air-spring system for HD coil springs, a-la PI. Yes, you lose auto ride levelling, but at the same time you'll NEVER have to worry about that system again, EVER.

[GetMeMyStogie]

I swapped out the air-spring system for HD coil springs, a-la PI. Yes, you lose auto ride levelling, but at the same time you'll NEVER have to worry about that system again, EVER.

Instead, you get to BEGIN worrying about headlight aim and bottoming out when carrying a heavy load in the trunk or back seat.

[GetMeMyStogie]

When I first start my car, no light. However, after about twenty minutes the air ride light turns on. What oh what do I do now.

These are the symptoms of leaky air springs. The air bags that are the springs develop small cracks around the area where the bag folds over. Sitting still, the leak is very slow. However, after driving around a bit, with the rear bouncing up and down, those small cracks flex and become more exposed and leak more. The compressor tries to keep up, but eventually the computer realizes that it can't keep up, so stops trying and lights up the dash.

If this is a recent development, your pump and air dryer are probably fine. If it's been prolonged, your air dryer is probably saturated with moisture and no longer effective. That means if you replace the air springs, you'll need a new air dryer - or run a few pounds of dry air through your existing dryer, to dry it out.

The test for leaky springs is pretty easy - jack up the rear of the car so the suspension extends. If the bags are leaky, you'll hear a whole lotta hissing as the springs extend. Be careful lowering the car so as to not bottom out the springs entirely - you'll probably have to run the air pump before removing the jack.

[MrBluGruv]

Instead, you get to BEGIN worrying about headlight aim and bottoming out when carrying a heavy load in the trunk or back seat.

lmfao, let me spell it out specifically:

HD = heavy duty. If the springs I put in there couldn't handle a load I tossed at it, the air springs sure wouldn't have. I had over 800lbs of person in the car with those springs by a fair margin, and about 600lbs of that was in the back seat. Guess what gave way first? I'll give you a hint, it wasn't the springs.

And yeh, I guess my headlight aim was terribly blinding everyone on the road, seeing as the front end dipped down LOWER than it was previously. :rolleyes: Besides, of all the things one would have to do as a modification to the car, I'd hardly count adjusting your headlights to be on the top of the "most difficult" list. Those things A: were out of alignment before I put the springs in and needed a recalibration anyways, and B: were replaced by aftermarket housings because the OEM housings were fogged over terribly and so the NEW ones needed to be calibrated as well.