View Full Version : 03 Cobra Power Train Swap?
JoeBoomz
07-25-2011, 09:38 AM
We are considering purchasing a full 03 Cobra powertrain (engine, blower, tremec) pulled from a working vehicle, taking off the tranny, and installing the engine (with blower) into a currently-stock Marauder while beefing up the 4R70 at the same time.
After some searching, the summary as I understand it is:
- May need a new (raised) hood
- Need to relocate battery to drivers side
- May need to notch frame (lots of discussion here about changing the front skirt, oil pan on engine to avoid this)
- Alternator moves from top of engine to front drivers side - need to run wiring
- May need to "adjust" position of braking lines/system under the hood to fit adjacent the alternator
- MAF moves from drivers side to passenger side - need to run wiring
- Cobra harness is on passenger side - need to run to drivers side for Marauder ECU
- Cobra FPDM is same as Marauder and doesn't need to be changed (???)
- Cobra Fuel Pump is a different system than the Marauder and tank change is required if you want to keep it - better to go with dual GT or other pumps?
What's the smallest pulley we can put on the Cobra Eaton before losing too much effenciency or blowing it up? After that, what are the options, i.e., porting, etc?
Will we have issues with the flywheel matching?
I know there are a lot of experts here and would appreciate it you could add in or fix any of the above so we have a good working summary for this project. Or if I totally missed a thread where this was already summarized, please point me there! ;)
SC Cheesehead
07-25-2011, 10:45 AM
Not certain why you'd need to raise the hood. I've done the Eaton swap on mine, and no issues with hood clearance, although ImpalaSlayer removed the hood liner to prevent any potential rubbing issues with the stock pulley I'm running.
Same goes for the fan, I'm running my OEM unit without any issues.
Just a question, why do you want to swap out the whole motor; wouldn't it just be easier to pull the S/C parts off the Cobra drivetrain and install them on your current engine?
JoeBoomz
07-25-2011, 10:53 AM
ImpalaSlayer removed the hood liner to prevent any potential rubbing issues with the stock pulley I'm running.
Same goes for the fan, I'm running my OEM unit without any issues.
Just a question, why do you want to swap out the whole motor; wouldn't it just be easier to pull the S/C parts off the Cobra drivetrain and install them on your current engine?
Perfect, thanks, I read about hood clearance issues, maybe we can get by with removing the liner, we'll have to see! Good also to hear about the OEM fan working fine.
Want to swap the whole motor to build up to higher amounts of boost. Long term, 600HP.
BODYMAN
07-25-2011, 11:54 AM
Well best way is look at it like a Eaton swap with a Alluminator or cobra reman block swap also rather then make some serious modifications IE frame notching and so forth just either get or take off ur existing motor things like t-cover,oil pan and pick up tube and a few others then like i metioned it will be no diff then like my alluminator/whipple swap but with reg eaton then none of the bs of frame,hood rise. make sense..
dmjarosz
07-25-2011, 03:11 PM
I havent done my Eaton swap yet so I'm by no means a professional at this but I've been researching the project for about a year so here is my $0.02 based on what I've read and seen:
- May need a new (raised) hood Not needed.
- Need to relocate battery to drivers side Needs to be done. You will also need a group 58 battery and battery tray if you want to keep the washer fluid bottle
- May need to notch frame (lots of discussion here about changing the front skirt, oil pan on engine to avoid this) Frame notching required if you leave the alternator in the original Cobra location. Otherwise, use Marauder timing cover, some other parts that I cant speak to, and "swap brackets" to relocate the alternator and mount supercharger tensioner. FYI I'm going with the swap brackets.
- Alternator moves from top of engine to front drivers side - need to run wiring See above. Longer wiring will need to be run. Will also need a splice connector for heavy gauge wire.
- May need to "adjust" position of braking lines/system under the hood to fit adjacent the alternator Not sure on this one... My guess is no since most of the stuff is in the same location on the engine between the two cars. I.E: valve covers dont stick out further.
- MAF moves from drivers side to passenger side - need to run wiring yes. Also, Cobra MAF is 4-pin vs 6-pin on the 'Rauder. Theres a conversion wiring schematic floating around somere on this forum.
- Cobra harness is on passenger side - need to run to drivers side for Marauder ECU. No clue on this one. Get advice from others as it MIGHT be easier to modify small portions of the Marauder harness instead of modifying major portions of the Cobra harness
- Cobra FPDM is same as Marauder and doesn't need to be changed (???) Same FPDM, no changes needed but see below.
- Cobra Fuel Pump is a different system than the Marauder and tank change is required if you want to keep it - better to go with dual GT or other pumps? My plan is to swap in a Ford GT Supercar pump and add a Kenne Bell 40 amp boost-a-pump. If you go the dual pump route, you need to modify the sending unit to accomodate 2 pumps. Also need to either upgrade the MOSFET chips in the FPDM or add a 2nd FPDM. Fuel pump wiring/fuse upgrade is needed as well. Again, wiring diagram is on this forum somewhere.
Basically I think the cobra swap gives you the same physical look as the Eaton swap. Everything fits in the same envelope and the same modifications are required with the exception of a few minor things I'm sure. The major differences are what you can't see. (Iron block, forged rotating assembly, etc)
So in the end I say congrats to you for having the budget to do this project. I only dream of having that kind of cheddar to spend on a car project. Good look and if you go ahead with the project be sure to post pics!
BODYMAN
07-25-2011, 04:03 PM
All you need in simple terms in the eaton swap list! and change the nesc parts on a termi LB to the MM stuff all the info is in here. Same thing that had to be done on my Alluminator w/adding eatonswap parts list
SpartaPerformance
07-25-2011, 04:48 PM
I agree with other posters that there will be no clearance issues and the only issue would be moving the battery. What you will also need is a new flex plate as the Cobra motor has a 8 bolt crank, FRPP used to make one but I'm sure you can find somebody on here that has done an Aluminator swap and ask them which one they've used.
Joe Walsh
07-25-2011, 04:50 PM
Talk to 'Tom Doan' a member here....Tom did a Cobra engine swap years ago.
His Marauder pulls like a freight train!
justbob
07-25-2011, 06:36 PM
Flexplate needed is the same one used on most f150's. I got my 8 bolt on ebay for $38. :)
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.