Sub Woofer Question.

[Rockettman]

I did a search, and read all kinds of old threads, but didn't really get my answer.

I am not prepared to re-wire an whole new system into the car, but was just wondering something.

Is it possible to just buy a new sub (and an enclosure) - maybe a self contained unit - and just wire it up to the exsisting wires in the car? I mean, the sub that's there has the signal wires and amp power already. Will this not work?

[Blackened300a]

I did a search, and read all kinds of old threads, but didn't really get my answer.

I am not prepared to re-wire an whole new system into the car, but was just wondering something.

Is it possible to just buy a new sub (and an enclosure) - maybe a self contained unit - and just wire it up to the exsisting wires in the car? I mean, the sub that's there has the signal wires and amp power already. Will this not work?

Yes it will work, thats how my MTX enclosure is wired up. positive, negative, input, and trigger.

[Rockettman]

Great.
What has to be specified for replacement? Is there a certain amperage that is required? Ohm rating? Anything like that?
Plus...crazy question...The unit can just sit in the trunk / or does it have to be directed up the rear-deck hole or anything?

(I really don't know much about these subs. My experience is old school - 16x9 gave me what I needed !).

[screamn]

Be careful stock amp that runs the stock weak 6 in. sub might not have enough power to drive a bigger sub like a 10 in or 12 in. Which in the long run could damage or even blow your sub if driven at medium to high volumes.

[Rockettman]

I'd even be happy with a better 6" or 8" sub of better quality.
The 10"-12" thing is NOT what I'm after at all.
I just don't know what to answer when the store asks me questions - nor do I know what to look for.
All I know is that I'd like something that is self contained (unless I have to have it go through the exsisting hole in the rear deck); and plug 'n' play. Absolutely nothing crazy.

[los]

I just had whole new wire ran to be on the safe side....but I'm also pushing 2 12's .... Just blew one one of my door speakers though : (

[fastblackmerc]

Install a Basslink self-contained enclosure.

[Blackened300a]

Great.
What has to be specified for replacement? Is there a certain amperage that is required? Ohm rating? Anything like that?
Plus...crazy question...The unit can just sit in the trunk / or does it have to be directed up the rear-deck hole or anything?

(I really don't know much about these subs. My experience is old school - 16x9 gave me what I needed !).

The enclosure I picked up off of John of Johns Stereo is a self powered subwoofer. It has a remote you can run, but I chose to just install it and set it once to how loud I wanted it. It made a nice improvement over that weak OEM one.

[nwilkes]

JL Audio makes a 6 inch sub!

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=29

[Vortech347]

PS. The trigger for the factory amp is NOT 12v its 6 so it won't turn on aftermarket amps.

Also do not re-use the factory wiring for the factory amp. Use at least some 8 gauge from the battery with a good ground.

[Fosters]

JL Audio makes a 6 inch sub!

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=29

I've looked at that one and decided against it. The main reason is cost - pricey for a 6". The second reason is, the factory amp I'm guessing matches the factory sub, which tested out at 6ohm; and it doesn't look like it would put out more than 30-50watts at that. The final reason was, there's a much more popular sub out there with better excursion than the JL and much lower power requirement, this being the Tang Band w6-1139si. I have/had one of these in the marauder, it's a fairly forward drop in, but I took it out last night to go big. It's a good upgrade and the factory amp does have enough power to push this, but it's not something to write home about. Most of the fault though, to be fair, lies within the crappy plastic factory enclosure, which doesn't seal right, reverberates because of the more powerful sub putting more air pressure on it, and so on.

Last but not least, I managed to get the TB w6 for 35 bucks; every now and then Parts-Express (exclusive dealer I guess, I haven't seen it for sale anywhere else) has pretty good sales on these. I think I caught it on a deal of the day type thing. I wouldn't pay the 100 bucks they want for it now though, nor would I pay 100 bucks for the JL. investing 100 bucks in the factory enclosure/amp isn't worth it, you'd be better off getting something like that 8" mtx or one of the other self contained small subs out there for a little more cash.

[BirchMarauder]

with JL Audio, you get what you pay for. They make serious products. one 10inch w7 with matching amp will rattle your fillings.

[Smalldogg/03mm]

Great.
What has to be specified for replacement? Is there a certain amperage that is required? Ohm rating? Anything like that?
Plus...crazy question...The unit can just sit in the trunk / or does it have to be directed up the rear-deck hole or anything?

(I really don't know much about these subs. My experience is old school - 16x9 gave me what I needed !).

I have 4- 6*9 in mines and it sounds good...old school also

[281MERC]

i threw in a jl discontinued 6"w0 which worked perfectly and sealed fine....but still wasn't enough for me so i threw in some 4 guage and went with a whole new setup

[281MERC]

nicely matched to the power of the amp too