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capt512
08-01-2011, 07:01 AM
Morning Everyone,

So while working on the MM yesterday I had the wheels off and noticed the upper ball joints look shot. The boots are ripped and torn up on both sides. Since purchasing the car I had noticed the steering wheel vibrating, but just figured it to be a tire out of balance and the rotors warped...however after looking at these boots it makes me wonder if its not ball joints.

http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g147/jamnbak2u/IMAG0397.jpg

So seeing as how the upper control arm costs about the same as the ball joints, I thought the better solution would be to replace it instead. However does this make the job alot harder (more expensive for shop?)... I know on the 02 and prior panthers upper ball joints weren't that big of a deal to replace DIY...but how bout these? I looked for a writeup for DIY upper ball joints but no luck... is this a difficult job I should take to the shop?

Also on a side note does anyone have pictures of the "flags" that need to be removed for the correct alignment...the alignment thread pictures are down and I am trying to figure out what has to be removed when I take it to a shop..

Thanks

kmastl
08-01-2011, 08:56 AM
Replacing the upper ca should be alot easier than replacing the ball joint. you would more than likely want to take the ca off to press the new ball joint in anyways.

Spectragod
08-01-2011, 09:12 AM
You can press those out on the car, replacing the upper arm will require removal of the shock/spring assembly.

chandler
08-01-2011, 09:29 AM
our ford books says no replacing ball joints. arm only.

Spectragod
08-01-2011, 09:47 AM
our ford books says no replacing ball joints. arm only.

Yep, says that on Mitchell too. It also says you cannot replace the lower ball joints, you must replace the arm. I have pressed those in as well.

So, the bottom line is, you can buy the part, but the book tells you you can't replace just the part, go figure........

fastblackmerc
08-01-2011, 09:48 AM
Way to check the ball joints:


Jack up the front of the car enough to get a 2X4 under the tire.
Place a 2X4 under the wheel
Lift up on the 2X4, you should be able to see movement in the ball joint(s) if they are bad
Up & Down movement is BAD!
Of course use all safety precautions

Marauderjack
08-01-2011, 03:25 PM
I replaced my upper CA's and shocks.....not a bad job but the ball joints were fine other than the boots......SHOT!!:argue: :mad2:

I wish you could buy new boots!!:confused:

MOTOWN
08-01-2011, 03:30 PM
If the ball joints are that bad, what makes you think the bushings are any better? ,replace the control arm(which comes w/ball joint) and be done with it!

BigCars4Ever
08-01-2011, 04:41 PM
You can press those out on the car, replacing the upper arm will require removal of the shock/spring assembly.

Bull *****. I broke two different ball joint presses getting one out and crushed a ball joint trying to press it back in. That was with the arms out of the car and preheating the arm and freezing the joint. I ended up replacing the arm. And this is on a very clean Florida car. I've installed ball joints on plenty of arms but these cast iron rods are a bear.
Bottoms are cake, leave them on the car.

SpartaPerformance
08-01-2011, 05:22 PM
Replace the upper control arm. I don't even think just ball joints are available, if they are why bother swapping out complete arms is easy. Remember to purchase Motorcraft

Spectragod
08-01-2011, 05:53 PM
Bull *****. I broke two different ball joint presses getting one out and crushed a ball joint trying to press it back in. That was with the arms out of the car and preheating the arm and freezing the joint. I ended up replacing the arm. And this is on a very clean Florida car. I've installed ball joints on plenty of arms but these cast iron rods are a bear.
Bottoms are cake, leave them on the car.

If it was easy, everyone would be doing it. The above post is quite true. If this is something that you don't do on a regular basis, it can be a problem, if you have to remove the upper to press them out, you may as well buy new uppers.

If you press out the lower, you need to be careful, as they(the lower arms) are aluminum, and you can crack them if you don't watch carefully.


Replace the upper control arm. I don't even think just ball joints are available, if they are why bother swapping out complete arms is easy. Remember to purchase Motorcraft

Ditto on buying factory parts.........

MOTOWN
08-01-2011, 05:56 PM
Replace the upper control arm. I don't even think just ball joints are available, if they are why bother swapping out complete arms is easy. Remember to purchase Motorcraft

The stock upper control arms are TRW not motorcraft

Rockettman
08-02-2011, 08:25 AM
I just finished (2 weeks ago) doing the uppers on my Dodge Magnum. Same situation. The joints ARE pressable, but went with the new arm/ball joint combo.
It's nice to just know it's all new; and it's all one unit, there for you to swap in.
Get the whole arm!

capt512
08-02-2011, 08:35 AM
Well I bought the whole arm for both sides - Moog brand (before seeing the comments about motocraft)...Moog should still be good though right? Kinda wanted greaseable joints which is why I went Moog. Got them from Rockauto for about $100 total.

Looking at it...the replacement looks pretty simple...1 nut under the ball joint, 3 nuts holding the shock spring assembly in, and 2 nuts/bolts on holding the arms on? Looks like just remove those nuts/bolts replace arm, rebolt together? Or am I over simplifying it? If its that easy I'll just do it next weekend in the carport, then get an alignment (assuming I can find this "flag" thing they are supposed to remove)... Or am I missing something and its harder than that?

fastblackmerc
08-02-2011, 09:06 AM
Well I bought the whole arm for both sides - Moog brand (before seeing the comments about motocraft)...Moog should still be good though right? Kinda wanted greaseable joints which is why I went Moog. Got them from Rockauto for about $100 total.

Looking at it...the replacement looks pretty simple...1 nut under the ball joint, 3 nuts holding the shock spring assembly in, and 2 nuts/bolts on holding the arms on? Looks like just remove those nuts/bolts replace arm, rebolt together? Or am I over simplifying it? If its that easy I'll just do it next weekend in the carport, then get an alignment (assuming I can find this "flag" thing they are supposed to remove)... Or am I missing something and its harder than that?

That's about all you have to do. You may have a trouble separating the ball joint. If your MM has had an alignment before the flags will be missing. Get carfixers alignment specs.

BigCars4Ever
08-02-2011, 06:31 PM
Well I bought the whole arm for both sides - Moog brand (before seeing the comments about motocraft)...Moog should still be good though right? Kinda wanted greaseable joints which is why I went Moog. Got them from Rockauto for about $100 total.

Looking at it...the replacement looks pretty simple...1 nut under the ball joint, 3 nuts holding the shock spring assembly in, and 2 nuts/bolts on holding the arms on? Looks like just remove those nuts/bolts replace arm, rebolt together? Or am I over simplifying it? If its that easy I'll just do it next weekend in the carport, then get an alignment (assuming I can find this "flag" thing they are supposed to remove)... Or am I missing something and its harder than that?

The Moog parts are stamped and boxed even if the picture shows cast. Only the TRW is cast. I bought the Moog and in my opinion they are just as stiff and half the weight.

capt512
08-06-2011, 05:54 AM
Alright so planning to try and tackle these today, is the spring tension gonna be a problem once I unbolt the shock tower, as far as bolting it back in?

Spectragod
08-06-2011, 05:57 AM
Alright so planning to try and tackle these today, is the spring tension gonna be a problem once I unbolt the shock tower, as far as bolting it back in?

Nope, the spring and shock assembly are 1 piece.

2 bolts at the bottom, and 3 at the top.

capt512
08-06-2011, 06:05 AM
Ok good to know, had seen this writeup on CVN http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2343540&gonew=1#UNREAD and he had to use a big ol pry bar to put it back together so thats what had me wondering.

Marauderjack
08-06-2011, 06:14 AM
Disconnect the sway bar end link and the lower control arm will swing far enough to remove the shock/spring assembly!!:beer:

Mine only had a single bolt through the bottom of the shock and the three up top as was mentioned before.....:D

capt512
08-06-2011, 06:22 AM
It looks like that is what the CVN guy does, but then when he goes to put it back together he has to pry against the spring and lower table to get the bolt back in the shock?

Marauderjack
08-06-2011, 06:50 AM
It'll be pretty easy to figger out once you get that far!!:beer:

capt512
08-06-2011, 06:59 AM
Cool cool, was just trying to make sure I didn't need to buy anything extra before ripping it apart lol

BigCars4Ever
08-06-2011, 10:07 AM
Mark the outside bolt of the tower. The three bolts are not equadisdent from each other.