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InfernoHeat2005
09-26-2011, 07:25 AM
About to build bottom end of motor, how much does this normally cost?
fastblackmerc
09-26-2011, 09:25 AM
About to build bottom end of motor, how much does this normally cost?


Unless you do the work yourself it depends on the parts used and labor rates in your area.

If you do the work yourself then it depends on the parts used.
Captain Dynball
09-26-2011, 09:27 AM
Rebuild it better than it was or back to stock?
InfernoHeat2005
09-26-2011, 09:31 AM
Looking to built better than it is. I got a S/C and I don't like running it on a stock bottom end. My car is currently at Fastlane performance shop in Houston as we speak. They will have a quote for me by the end of the day.
Captain Dynball
09-26-2011, 09:37 AM
Looking to built better than it is. I got a S/C and I don't like running it on a stock bottom end. My car is currently at Fastlane performance shop in Houston as we speak. They will have a quote for me by the end of the day.

I've been to Fastlane a few times. Only problem I have with them is that they don't specialize specifically in a certain type of vehicle.

I know an engine builder in Houston that built a motor for me. He's built many mod motors and does an exceptional job of it. There are many 600-800 hp lightnings roaming around Houston with 100k+ miles on the same motor built by him. He is very reasonable too. I can check if he is willing to take on another motor if you'd like me too.

Triangle Speed Shop is the best in tuning 96-04 Ford Modular powered cars. They can build the engines too but the guy that did it for me can do it cheaper. He has a very good reputation with TSS (Triangle Speed Shop). Many of his engines have been through that shop for tuning.

Minimum cost on a forged rebuild will be around $3000. That's if nothing is wrong with the heads or block.
RacerX
09-26-2011, 09:50 AM
If you build it better than it was, you're looking at about 3 to 4k+. You would need:
Forged rotating assembly (pistons, rods and rings) Balanced
Most likely it'll be an 8 bolt crank so you'll need a new flexplate.
New main bolts, side bolts, head bolts (ARP if 600hp+)
Head gaskets. New oil pump or have the old one inspected by a shop. New chain guides and possibly tensioners.
Block cleaning, decking, deglazing honing, boring, or whatever may be deemed necessary by machine shop.
Heads will need to be decked. Valves, seats, guides, etc. need to be checked.
Engine assembly and hopefully degreeing of the long block...
I'm sure I'm missing something... :beer:
fastblackmerc
09-26-2011, 10:04 AM
New oil pump or have the old one inspected by a shop.

I'd go with a billet oil pump..... the powered-metal one we have is not too good.
Captain Dynball
09-26-2011, 10:06 AM
I'd go with a billet oil pump..... the powered-metal one we have is not too good.

That powdered metal pump has killed many "built" engines just because they cheaped out and just hoped the stocker would stick together.
RacerX
09-26-2011, 10:28 AM
I'd go with a billet oil pump..... the powered-metal one we have is not too good.
I agree as I have an upgraded one myself, but, most of those deaths were due to poor aftermarket crank dampners not absorbing enough of the harmonic vibrations. :beer:
slickster
09-26-2011, 11:01 AM
you are good sir x. would you also agree that stock mm motors are not good for s/c. i say this cause i see alot of members with s/c on stock motors even a few times over haveing problems and no problems with n/a motors
RacerX
09-26-2011, 11:12 AM
It's all in who tunes it. Some tuners will push it ot the edge because they can show you that dyno in the end saying "Look how much I gained you!". A good tuner will make you a safe sc tune on a stock engine that'll last a very long time. DR (Reinhart Automotive) and Lidio (Alternative Automotive) are prime examples.
Captain Dynball
09-26-2011, 11:23 AM
It's all in who tunes it. Some tuners will push it ot the edge because they can show you that dyno in the end saying "Look how much I gained you!". A good tuner will make you a safe sc tune on a stock engine that'll last a very long time. DR (Reinhart Automotive) and Lidio (Alternative Automotive) are prime examples.

Used to be a shop here in Houston called Strictly Performance that would do that for people. "Hey there ya go 5 more horsepower! NO WARRANTY!!". Motor would blow up within a month!
slickster
09-26-2011, 11:37 AM
It's all in who tunes it. Some tuners will push it ot the edge because they can show you that dyno in the end saying "Look how much I gained you!". A good tuner will make you a safe sc tune on a stock engine that'll last a very long time. DR (Reinhart Automotive) and Lidio (Alternative Automotive) are prime examples.
thats nice. id be careful when investing 5k into a rare car
Spectragod
09-26-2011, 06:09 PM
About to build bottom end of motor, how much does this normally cost?

5k for a shortblock, labor to build it into a LB will add $$$, plus P&P the heads, cams, tuning etc.....
LANDY
09-26-2011, 06:24 PM
Get an aluminator 10.1 CR shortblock for $3700 shipped to your door and call.it a.day
napolitano
09-27-2011, 02:47 AM
Somebody say Aluminator?
Black&Gifted
09-28-2011, 07:33 PM
Talk to Patrick at PSI Motorsports in Webster, Tx. He did all the work on my previous built Harley and has built many a Lightnings, Cobras and GT 500s. May not be the quickest but he's never steered me, or anyone I know, wrong. Will be the person I talk to if I decide I want to build my MM.
na svt
09-30-2011, 06:09 AM
Get an aluminator 10.1 CR shortblock for $3700 shipped to your door and call.it a.day
Better yet, get a JDM storker with aluminum block for $2999.


5k for a shortblock, labor to build it into a LB will add $$$, plus P&P the heads, cams, tuning etc.....
Porting the heads does nothign to add power because the intake manifold is teh choke point. Just get a good valve job and open the valve seats up. I've seen many people drop 2-3k on ported heads and gain no power at all.