BAP Installation with Pics

[JoeBoomz]

I did this months ago but haven't had a chance to post the pics. Dennis Reinhart has posted some great pics as well but I couldn't find any of the full procedure, so I took some pics along the way.

August 2013 Update: BAP installation diagrams are posted in this thread, further along at http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1319314&postcount=51

IMPORTANT UPDATE: The below post installs the BAP from the FACTORY POWER WIRING in the Marauder. This will work fine for lower-horsepower applications, let's say under 450HP. But in my car with a GT40 pump, the stock wiring was not sufficient to power the BAP and I experienced random detonation. I needed to make a dedicated run of power cable from the battery in the front to the BAP in the trunk and after doing that, I haven't heard a single PING since. If you install the BAP with stock wiring I urge you to test it very carefully to confirm that you have consistent fuel rail pressure across many different temperature and load conditions.
If you want more details on the dedicated BAP power wire, they are posted in Page 4 of the thread:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74289&page=4


If you datalog your car and find the fuel pump duty cycle is approaching Max (high 0.40's), or your fuel rail pressure is consistently dropping below 35PSI, the BAP is your solution. It brought the duty cycle on mine below 0.40 consistently.

The BAP install is very easy and straightforward, at a minimum you're splicing into one wire and installing a ground. This BAP is the 40A model.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6335.JPG

Important note, the BAP is wired BETWEEN the fuel shutoff switch and the FPDM. NOT between the FPDM and Fuel Pump.

The flow of current is like this:

Shutoff switch --white wire--> BAP --white wire--> FPDM --> Fuel Pump

The input wire on the BAP is the one with the fuse. The BAP will work off the stock wiring, however the BAP greatly amplifies spikes and droops in the current. For best results you should run an 8 or 10-guage wire from the battery for more consistent power. Use a relay if you want to maintain the fuel pump shutoff switch functionality.

The fuel shutoff switch is at the top, near the lid of the trunk. The FPDM is the black box with the white sticker on it, at the bottom of the wall.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6333.JPG

Closer up:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6334.JPGI

Notice that the side of the trunk is a good 4" away from side of the car. This is great, because you can mount things to it without being anywhere near your exterior chassis or the fender. These trunks are terrific for stereo installs because of this.


The first step in the wiring is to unplug the FPDM and remove the tape from the wiring, you're looking for the white wire. Not that white wires are any better than black wires, or red wires, or blue wires or green wires, don't get me wrong. But the BAP needs to get spliced in with whitey for your car to go faster.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6340.JPG

So I cut the white wire here, stripped the ends and crimped connectors on both. Note that it's always best to add in a bit of solder if possible to ensure a perfect connection. Now we're ready to splice in the red BAP wires.

Very important, the one with the fuse connects to the UPPER wire (from the fuel shutoff switch) and the one without the fuse connects to the LOWER wire (going to the FPDM plug).

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6343.JPG

You can also see I've mounted the BAP in this picture. It fits perfectly between the fuel pump switch and FPDM, almost like the car was built for it. I love when things come together perfectly. You can also see BAP's ground wire snaking under the FPDM and bolted to the frame.

Here's a closeup of the ground:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6341.JPG

Rusty bolts increase current capacity by five times. True story.

The BAP also comes with a long wire to connect to a boost switch for remote control activation. It sounds like a cool feature but is totally unnecessary. Short the wire out and skip making the lengthy run to the front of your car. Trust me, you'll see why when you read further about the knob.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6344.JPG

You can actually cut off the majority of the wire too. I kept mine spooled up for future, just in case.

So here's the BAP mounted, grounded, and wired in between the Fuel Shutoff Switch and the FPDM. Notice the fuse is quite accessable still!

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6346.JPG

All that's left is the BAP control knob that you saw in the first picture. It's connected to the BAP by a gold-plated RCA (~component) cable. Here is it added into the mix and one final look at the install before we cover everything back up.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6348.JPG

So, about the knob. It's INTENDED installation point is where the driver can reach it, and supposedly move it during motor vehicle operation. This may work well in cars not driven by an ECU, but the Marauder ECU needs to learn the voltages it needs to send to the FPDM and Fuel Pump to achieve certain fuel flow rates. Long story short, this knob is best set once and left alone. If you were to change the setting later, your car would be lean or rich and would have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table to get the fuel flow correct again. I put mine at max and haven't touched it since.


Here's the carpet all put back in place, covering up the install almost perfectly.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/09-30-2011-BAP/IMG_6349.JPG

You can peek-a-BAP right next to the air suspension shutoff switch. The BAP never gets hot to the touch, and the control knob is reachable by pulling back the carpet at the very top (though I never change the setting).


One last point to note - the car will have to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table every time you reflash it. For best results, you need to drive it for awhile to let it learn what works best, then log the voltages it is using and change the table in your tune directly. Then when you reprogram your car, it will run like a champ right away, instead of starting off with fuel issues while it adapts the table to the BAP. I will post a guide to LiveLink and will cover this procedure in another thread at a later date.

[sailsmen]

Detailed write up.

I would upgrade the fuse. Mine caught on fire.:flamer:

[Spectragod]

+1 on the fuse holder, additionally, the Hobbs switch is adjustable, you can set it to turn the BAP on at lower, or higher boost levels.

[-Matt-]

You mounted it upside down.... it wont work that way

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks guys!

The install "sheet" (I use the term loosely with little respect - it was horrible to read) indicated the factory fuse under the hood should be upgraded to 40A. Is this the one you guys are referring to, or are you talking about the inline fuse that came on the BAP input wire?


+1 on the fuse holder, additionally, the Hobbs switch is adjustable, you can set it to turn the BAP on at lower, or higher boost levels.

This would result in the ECU having to re-learn the fuel pump voltage table continually. I'm unsure if it would provide the best results.

[JoeBoomz]

You mounted it upside down.... it wont work that way

WRONG, much like a bottle of beer or NOS bottle; it's MUCH better upside down. :D

Seriously though, the orientation was chosen for the direction of the wiring.

[Spectragod]

Thanks guys!

The install "sheet" (I use the term loosely with little respect - it was horrible to read) indicated the factory fuse under the hood should be upgraded to 40A. Is this the one you guys are referring to, or are you talking about the inline fuse that came on the BAP input wire?

That line going to it is factory rated @ 20A IIRC, putting a 40A fuse in there will not increase the amount of amps going to the unit, it'll just burn the line up if there is ever a short circuit, i.e. fire.

As far as mounting it upside down, it is sideways, but the wires come out the front side, therefore, the ohms will stay inside the BAP when your accelerating. You certainly don't want excessive ohms loose in the trunk though, I hope it is properly vented.:D

[-Matt-]

WRONG, much like a bottle of beer or NOS bottle; it's MUCH better upside down. :D

Seriously though, the orientation was chosen for the direction of the wiring.


Well no 'cause the fuel fairies need to be able to flow through the static bobulator in a north to south direction... if you flip it the fairies would think that you are driving in china... and thats not good.

[-Matt-]

This guys shows the correct mounting position..... bazzlebear edition

Es3L6p2Fym0

[guspech750]

This guys shows the correct mounting position..... bazzlebear edition

Es3L6p2Fym0

OMG!!! LMAO!! I foregot about this vid. "yellow top baby"!! "justbobs babies". Bazzle Bear Lmao!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[JoeBoomz]

Oh yeah, yellow top FTW, that's some NIIICE work with the glowing thingies!

[-Matt-]

Oh yeah, yellow top FTW, that's some NIIICE work with the glowing thingies!


Why thank you kind sir.... some say my cars nicer then DOOMS..... some.....

[NATEHAWK]

Great write up but I noticed you didn't use a relay to supply the the boost a pumps power. Also I thought you splice into the pink and black wire or use that and the trigger for the relay. Anyone else notice these things?

[NATEHAWK]

The comment a tad more you writeup is to install your BAP Pre FPDM my existing setup is After FPDM that's why I spliced into the pink&black wire that feeds the pump directly. What's preferred thou with a vehicle at 500+rwhp?

[NATEHAWK]

Here is a pic of mine. http://tapatalk.com/mu/47b237b1-aa4c-a357.jpg

[JoeBoomz]

The comment a tad more you writeup is to install your BAP Pre FPDM my existing setup is After FPDM that's why I spliced into the pink&black wire that feeds the pump directly. What's preferred thou with a vehicle at 500+rwhp?

The concensus is that you wire the BAP before the FPDM, otherwise your ECU will not be able to control the fuel pump as intended.



Great write up but I noticed you didn't use a relay to supply the the boost a pumps power. Also I thought you splice into the pink and black wire or use that and the trigger for the relay. Anyone else notice these things?


The BAP will work off the stock wiring, however the BAP greatly amplifies spikes and droops in the current. For best results you should run an 8 or 10-guage wire from the battery for more consistent power. Use a relay if you want to maintain the fuel pump shutoff switch functionality.

For best results, you should use the output from the fuel pump shutoff switch to trigger the relay, and feed an 8ga wire from the battery into the relay to go into the BAP.

[Vortech347]

Run the BAP Pre FPDM. That way you can use a relay and separate power wire. Its how I'm running the BAP on our Cobra.

[babbage]

Why not just get a new 255lph pump, instead of "overclocking" an 8 year old stocker?

[JoeBoomz]

Why not just get a new 255lph pump, instead of "overclocking" an 8 year old stocker?

I'm "overclocking" a GT SuperCar Pump. Don't know how well it would work on a stocker.

In my case, the other option would be to go to a full dual pump setup and a BAP is much better route if you're under the 500HP mark.

[LANDY]

Single GT is plenty of fuel for around 500rwhp mark

[JoeBoomz]

Single GT is plenty of fuel for around 500rwhp mark

With a BAP, yes. Without, I was not getting enough fuel and I'm probably around 430 HP.

[LANDY]

With a BAP, yes. Without, I was not getting enough fuel and I'm probably around 430 HP.
That's what I meant. Been there done that with my older car

[Blown3.8]

The comment a tad more you writeup is to install your BAP Pre FPDM my existing setup is After FPDM that's why I spliced into the pink&black wire that feeds the pump directly. What's preferred thou with a vehicle at 500+rwhp?
Nate I keep meaning to tell you . You need to wire yours pre FPDM, cause your Fuel Pressure goes wacky when you step on it. Fuel pressure drops way down sky rockets then finally levels off. I'm pretty sure you can't see it on your FP guage on the pillar but the log I took you can see it. I'll see if I can get a screen shot of it. Your fuel pump is also maxing out at 5500rpm.

And a log of BAP pre FPDM.

[sailsmen]

Why would anyone wire the BAP post FPDM?

[Vortech347]

Why would anyone wire the BAP post FPDM?

For some reason thats the way KB likes them installed.

[NATEHAWK]

Nate I keep meaning to tell you . You need to wire yours pre FPDM, cause your Fuel Pressure goes wacky when you step on it. Fuel pressure drops way down sky rockets then finally levels off. I'm pretty sure you can't see it on your FP guage on the pillar but the log I took you can see it. I'll see if I can get a screen shot of it. Your fuel pump is also maxing out at 5500rpm.

And a log of BAP pre FPDM.

Thanks Chris. Since then I have wired my pump pre fpdm and also upgraded the power wire and ran it directly from the battery fused of course. What do you recommend on my setup Chris? I have 60lb's gt40 pump already. Think it's time for dual pumps? If so will I need to add another fpdm and booster pump?

[sailsmen]

With 2 GT Pumps I ran out at ~540RWHP. I added a boost-a-pump

[NATEHAWK]

With 2 GT Pumps I ran out at ~540RWHP. I added a boost-a-pump

You added a 1 or 2 boost a pumps? Your current setup you have two FPDM's correct?

[LANDY]

Natehawk, You don't need two BAP's. get a modded FPDM, 40amp BAP and a second fuel pump and you will be good on the blower you have now.

[NATEHAWK]

Natehawk, You don't need two BAP's. get a modded FPDM, 40amp BAP and a second fuel pump and you will be good on the blower you have now.

In doing my research I see a lot of people don't believe in that modded FPDM. Where would you recommend to get one? I see some people run dual FPDM where they grab one out s CV or GM from the boneyard for pennies. Also the data that Chris logged from my car was before I wired the boost-a-pump pre-FPDM, added in a relay and ran a 10 gauge wire from the battery (mines trunk mounted for a short run of wire), and shorted the boost-a-pump control wires to have it run at all times and not just on boost. All logged data was with post-FPDM and no relay with the bigger power wire. I think that alone may solved my problem. I'm going to data log my car this weekend it's suppose to be nice sunny weather.

[NATEHAWK]

Ok did a run a lil while ago..I couldnt get up to 5k rpm it was dark and the deer are out didnt want any mishaps....Base on what Im seeing the fuel pressure in the rails are up and down....Looks like I need another pump to stabilize that fuel with those 60lbs injectors pumping it out at a faster rate then stock. What ya think guys?

[Blown3.8]

In the log on live link, right click just before you go WOT and drag the line out to when you come off the throttle. Then post that screen shot.

Or email me the log file. Also if you want to try again. Go out and start off in first then shift to second manually and leave it there and roll into the throttle to WOT and get as high in the rpm range you can that way.

[NATEHAWK]

I forgot to turn the OD off too. That will help a great deal lls.

[NATEHAWK]

Update...I need to add another pump. I'm maxing out the pump over 4500rpm. Also my fuel rail pressure is all over the place. I'll be adding another 20amp BAP, another stock FPDM and another GT pump. Then I'll repost findings. http://img.tapatalk.com/a6937714-c462-b6a2.jpg

[Taemian]

Update...I need to add another pump. I'm maxing out the pump over 4500rpm. Also my fuel rail pressure is all over the place. I'll be adding another 20amp BAP, another stock FPDM and another GT pump. Then I'll repost findings. http://img.tapatalk.com/a6937714-c462-b6a2.jpg
So what has happened? My car is on the dyno and running out of fuel pressue at 5800rpm with a BAP/ single GT40 setup making 405 rwhp.
The dealership is suggesting an Aerodyne fuel pump. Where can I find details on the dual GT40 set-up?

[NATEHAWK]

Just google it. They are all over the place. I think I may just go with a Dual GT Pump with a 40amp BAP and modded FPDM. Our fuel hats don't allow us to run wire to each pump separate. I think this is the most affective and simplest way to get more fuel and not blow anything.

[NATEHAWK]

Just purchased a 40amp BAP, Zone 5 Stage 2 modified FPDM, and another GT Pump to add so I'll have dual pumps. This setup should hold me to 600rwhp.

[Seneca]

Just purchased a 40amp BAP, Zone 5 Stage 2 modified FPDM, and another GT Pump to add so I'll have dual pumps. This setup should hold me to 600rwhp.I'm running the same setup accept without a BAP, Heavy ga wire to the fuel pump hat. With a BAP you should have plenty of fuel! Good luck bro!

[Siege]

Thank you for the write-up Joe.

I installed my BAP this weekend in the same spot but decided to mount it on the back of that bracket so the carpet would sit a little more normal.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=28 285&stc=1&d=1332771741

I placed the BAP on the front and marked the four mounting holes with a punch. Drilled through bracket where the holes were marked. Placed the BAP on the rear of the bracket and secured it with rivets.

[JoeBoomz]

Thank you for the write-up Joe.

I installed my BAP this weekend in the same spot but decided to mount it on the back of that bracket so the carpet would sit a little more normal.


What a great idea, and it looks great too! There really is no need to access the BAP block itself after installation, so unless it needs to be changed out later, I actually prefer your method and might switch mine over when wire in my stereo in a few weeks. Thanks for the pic!

[Cougar_Marauder]

I just installed my BAP as described here. Great write up! I notice that this is a bit different (in location and not wired up to the boost gauge) than the way described in the Trilogy manual... Is it safe to say that this is the "better" way to hook it up? and how important is it to run power directly from the battery?

[NATEHAWK]

I just installed my BAP as described here. Great write up! I notice that this is a bit different (in location and not wired up to the boost gauge) than the way described in the Trilogy manual... Is it safe to say that this is the "better" way to hook it up? and how important is it to run power directly from the battery?

No wires actually go to the boost gauge. You just run the vac hose that comes with it to the port on the back of the intake and straight to the gauge. If you decide to use the Hobbs switch then you could T-off to it and wire in to activate for the BAP to come on under a set boost psi. But most of us guys wire it to be on all the time.

[JoeBoomz]

No wires actually go to the boost gauge. You just run the vac hose that comes with it to the port on the back of the intake and straight to the gauge. If you decide to use the Hobbs switch then you could T-off to it and wire in to activate for the BAP to come on under a set boost psi. But most of us guys wire it to be on all the time.

Both methods will work but based on what I've learned it's best to skip the vac hookup and to set the fuel knob permanently. This will provide consistent voltage increases to the FPDM which ultimately makes it easier for the ECU to learn a correct fuel pump voltage table. The ECU is able to dial the voltage back when there is less need for fuel; there is no need to have the BAP doing it.

[JoeBoomz]

and how important is it to run power directly from the battery?

I need to update this post a bit!

If you are near or above the 450HP range, running a thicker power cable from the battery to the BAP is necessary to keep it sufficiently powered. Or at least it was for me with a GT40 pump. The factory wiring just can't carry enough current to feed the BAP.

I have data logs to show this and will make some updates shortly.

[fastblackmerc]

I need to update this post a bit!

If you are near or above the 450HP range, running a thicker power cable from the battery to the BAP is necessary to keep it sufficiently powered. Or at least it was for me with a GT40 pump. The factory wiring just can't carry enough current to feed the BAP.

I have data logs to show this and will make some updates shortly.

What gauge do you recommend?

[JoeBoomz]

Aeroforce will cover many things including the important fuel ones. Or AutoMeter to keep the stock factory look.

[Cougar_Marauder]

Thanks for the replies. OK, I don't think I will be over 450hp so I just have it set to be on at all times powered with the stock wiring. The Trilogy manual says to set it at 10... but here it says crank it up to maximum. Should I just turn it all the way up?

[JoeBoomz]

Thanks for the replies. OK, I don't think I will be over 450hp so I just have it set to be on at all times powered with the stock wiring. The Trilogy manual says to set it at 10... but here it says crank it up to maximum. Should I just turn it all the way up?

It won't hurt to have it at max, the ECU will dial the voltage to the pump down to maintain constant pressure at the fuel rails.

[JoeBoomz]

After my initial BAP install on the factory wiring, the results looked promising. Duty cycles were consistently lower, and rail pressures were consistently higher in logging.

However in random circumstances I still experienced detonation at full loads and higher RPM's. The randomness of this was a pain because it always happened when I wasn't logging, and didn't when I was.

So when I did my stereo install, I decided to also run a dedicated 4ga. power wire for the BAP to see if that would help the issue. I am pleased to say it solved it 100% and I haven't had a single instance of detonation now in the last month since completing the wiring upgrade. The results of the upgrade aren't very obvious with logging, but this has solved the apparent low-power instances when the factory wire couldn't get enough current into the BAP.

Bottom line: the 40A BAP is a power-hungry beast and I highly recommend making a dedicated run of power wire to it from the battery, 8ga. or bigger.

I posted pictures and details about running the extra BAP power wire during my stereo install thread:http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80398


The Marauder can also benefit further from running larger gauge wire from the FPDM to the fuel pump(s), however this is a more involved job that requires pulling the fuel pump assembly out from the tank (I have not done it on my car). Anyone that is swapping out fuel pumps should consider taking this step as it is an easy extra step once you have the fuel pump in-hand.


You can probably get away with using the white factory wire for applications that are safely under 450HP but if you're getting anywhere beyond 400HP I'd highly recommend the wiring upgrade from the battery to the BAP. The distance the current has to travel to feed the 40A BAP is just too great for the small factory wire that is currently in place. I don't know if this would be true with the smaller 20A model of the BAP but I think for the $20 price difference most will just go with the more powerful version anyway.


Tonight I will be posting a bunch of datalogs of different BAP knob settings. I will make a few comments along the way.


DATALOGS BEFORE THE WIRING UPGRADE

First, take a look at the base SCT fuel table, most importantly near the top where the system will try to match the Air/Fuel ratio under full loads:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BaseFuelTable.PNG
This is an Air/Fuel ratio number, so at 0.796 we are supposed to have more fuel than air. (note I will deliberately avoid a discussion regarding stoich here)

Remember FRACTIONS back in school?
Top value > (greater than) bottom value gives you a number greater than one.
Top value = (equal to) bottom value gives you a 1.
Top value < (less than) bottom value gives you a number smaller than 1.

So when we're talking AIR over FUEL:
1 is equal amounts air and fuel,
Greater than 1 means more air than fuel (lean)
...and Less than 1 means less air than fuel (rich - which is where we want to be to have more power at Wide Open Throttle so you can make your exhaust tips nice and black at the ends!)

Let's see what the datalogs show is actually happening at different BAP knob settings.

Note: The TP (throttle position) in the above table is NOT equal to the LOAD in the below tables! They are mostly relative, however; the engine will be under high load if the TP is high. So this means the top part of the above chart can (mostly) be compared to the top part of the below charts when we're looking at the air/fuel ratio.


BAP knob at ~50%:

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Duty%20Cycle%203.PNG

Duty cycle seems OK here with a max reading of 0.45 (equals 90%)

"but Joe," they say, "how do you get your data into the charts to look at it like you have here?" This I posted at the following thread:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80544


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Rail%20Pressure%203.P NG

Here we see some drops in the rail pressures, below 30PSI. There are many factors at play to keep the rail pressure up, and just because the duty cycle isn't maxed it doesn't mean you are going to get commanded pressure.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20STFT%203.PNG

There are lean conditions in some spots here.
This means the A/F is near or above 1 in the cells at the top of the chart - which is not what the base fuel table commands! Uh oh! Let's put the BAP knob up a bit.


BAP knob at ~75%:.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Duty%20Cycle%202.PNG

The highest value we see here is 0.43 = 86% duty cycle.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Rail%20Pressure%202.P NG

Things are looking better for fuel rail pressures! Did turning the knob up help, or are we prone to some random changes in the data due to operating temperatures or other variables???


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20STFT%202.PNG

We are still seeing lean conditions at the top end of the chart. Let's put the BAP knob at 100% (remember we are still on factory wiring).


BAP knob at 100%:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Duty%20Cycle%201.PNG

Hmmm, largest value here is 0.44 (88%) - which is worse off than we seemed to be at 75% knob setting.

Again, you never know if another variable like operating temperatures affected the results, but they seemed consistently the same or worse than the previous settings.

At this point I started wondering if it was instead a BAP power issue, perhaps the BAP was already starved for power at the lower knob setting already and turning the knob up has little effect?


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20Rail%20Pressure%201.P NG

The fuel rail numbers were still not consistently close to the 40PSI range that I'd like to see in the top end.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/BEFORE%20STFT%201.PNG

...and we're still running a bit lean at the top end of the chart.


Let's take a look at the datalogs after the wiring upgrade (in the next post because we're at 10 pictures in this one).

[JoeBoomz]

The below RED 4ga. wire was run through the passenger side firewall in this location:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5870.JPG

...through the factory wiring channel down the passenger side of the car and up into the trunk...

...and into a fuse/distribution block to which the main BAP power wire was directly connected:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5959.JPG
Notice the white factory fuel power wires was cut here, I taped it up and left it loose. The other end is still connected to the BAP output wire as before.

Also notice I did NOT connect the BAP to the fuel shutoff switch in any way (usually done via relay). This is because in previous vehicles I have had the bass from the stereo trip the fuel shutoff, which is NOT something I want happening in my Marauder under high boost if the stereo happens to be pounding at the same time.

I also moved the BAP knob to a more accessible, but still nicely out of the way location:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/06-13-2012-StereoInstall/IMG_5961.JPG


DATALOGS AFTER THE WIRING UPGRADE

So to start, I set the BAP knob to 50% after the wiring upgrade.


BAP knob at 50%:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20Duty%20Cycle%201.PNG

OK, our max duty cycle here is 0.48 = 96%.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20Rail%20Pressure%201.PN G

... and we still have low rail pressure near the top end


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20STFT%201.PNG

The Air/fuel looks a bit improved now, though! Let's crank the knob to 100% and see what it does now that the wiring upgrade is in place.


BAP knob at 100%:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20Duty%20Cycle%202.PNG

Duty cycle max is 0.42 (84%) - this is a definite improvement over the duty cycle we saw at 100% with the factory wiring!

But notice across the entire table, the duty cycles are ALL consistently lower. This looks promising.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20Rail%20Pressure%202.PN G

Rail pressures are all more consistent across the board, closer to 40PSI. There are still some cells that are a bit lower than I'd expected.


http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20STFT%202.PNG


We've got a lot of solid data here for the upper end of the table, and the AF ratio looks to be bang on to the Base Fuel Table that is programmed.

There are still some outliers with strange values in the table. So let's convert the vertical LOAD axis to TP_RELATIVE instead so we can compare it directly to the Base Fuel Table.

http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/07-09-2012-BAP%20Wiring%20Logs/AFTER%20STFT%202%20TP%20REL.PN G

This table paints a clear picture of what is happening with the car's Air/Fuel based on the throttle position. And it also shows that the TP_RELATIVE is not exactly relative to LOAD in certain situations (for example, when you quickly take your foot off the gas pedal).


Anyway I hope this helps a few people out along the way! If you use the factory wiring, listen for detonation, and if you have any whatsoever with the BAP knob at 100%, it's time to do the wiring upgrade!

[JoeBoomz]

Since posting this I've had a few PM's with questions asking for more clarity on the wiring. So here we go!


Factory wiring, untouched:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-04-2013-BAP Wiring Diagrams/1 - Factory Wiring.png


Easy installation, good for under ~425HP.
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-04-2013-BAP Wiring Diagrams/2 - Basic BAP Installation.png


Wire upgrade to battery, disables the Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-04-2013-BAP Wiring Diagrams/3 - BAP Installation with Upgraded Wire to Battery.png
(CAUTION the Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch is a SAFETY FEATURE, I recommend keeping it by using a relay as shown below)

Also, if you skip the relay, the BAP will ALWAYS draw power, THIS WILL KILL YOUR BATTERY IF YOUR CAR IS PARKED FOR OVER A FEW WEEKS!


Wire upgrade to battery with minimum 30a. relay to retain Fuel Pump Shutoff Switch functionality:
http://images.ioncross.com/mercurymarauder.net/08-04-2013-BAP Wiring Diagrams/4 - BAP Installation with Upgraded Wire to Battery with Relay.png
Most any automotive relays can be used as long as the amperage is sufficient. The above pic is a single pole double throw. Double pole double throw relays are also common and you just don't use the secondary output (pin 87a).


Further wiring improvements are possible by increasing the wire size from the FPDM outputs to the fuel pump.


If you are going with a return-style fuel system, wire directly from BAP output to the fuel pump(s). Use 8ga. or larger wire for best results. But you need to set up a relay to the fuel shutoff switch or to your ignition source because the pump(s) are run at 100% all the time and you need a way to turn it/them off.

[JBeezy]

I wonder if I need to use a BAP with the aeromotive 340 pump?

[1stMerc]

Thanks for posting a better wiring of the relay Joe. That was the one thing missing from BAP installs of previous posts.

[lifespeed]

Great write up. Good to see you preserved the factory control of the fuel pump. In a worst-case scenario, you want that crash fuel shutoff shutoff switch to function.

[JBeezy]

Thanks Joe. I used this today to wire my BAP up


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[azgolfrat]

Joe ,

It looks like the finalized wiring diagram has gone away from the above post?
Could you repost?
I installed a booster and relay, with a dedicated line up to the battery, and I am having some problems. I want to make sure I have the proper diagram before I start taking things apart.
Thanks

[RubberCtyRauder]

All the old posts like this one lost pics when they upgraded years and years ago. Most of the members on this post are no longer here nor own a marauder

[03Merc]

I'm about to install mine, I see the pictures for the most simple way. My question is that I have 2 black wires coming out of the amp, do I ground both together or just 1 or...? Lmk if You know. Thank You.


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