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sailsmen
10-12-2011, 07:34 PM
Saturday a.m. I noticed the coolant temp shoot up to 230*. I turned off the MM and let it cool. Drove home with the a/c off and the coolant stayed below 200*.

A local shop installed my twin rad fans. I went through the trouble shoot and determined no power to the controller. I also noticed a discoloration on the elec tape.

This is where the butt connectors were to the power source. I checked the install manual and it is suppose to be wired to the batt with the supplied inline fuse.

It was spliced into a wire harness with no in line fuse. The butt connector became the fuse.

I replaced the butt connectors, checked all the connections and wired it with an inline fuse to the batt per the install manual. To date the condition that casued the high amp draw has not returned. If it does it will now blow the fuse.

I thought about driving to his house and asking for my money back, but I know he closed his shop due to a paralizing health issue so I have let it go.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/IMG002011.jpg:(
wickedmerc
10-12-2011, 07:40 PM
YIKES! :eek:

That coulda gotten ugly.
drobin
10-12-2011, 08:15 PM
Not good Larry, rest assured this will be discussed in the near future with my soon to be #231 install. Thanks for sharing !!

drobin (Donald)
sailsmen
10-12-2011, 08:27 PM
The most important part of the Tril install is the intercooler pump.
Shaijack
10-13-2011, 02:38 AM
What a b**** I thought only DRobin had butt problems. Glad you could fix it.
fastblackmerc
10-13-2011, 04:34 AM
FYI... you should always use solder and heat-shrink tubing on all your vehicle connections.
TFB
10-13-2011, 05:07 AM
Probably just a bad butt connector connection, which are a disaster waiting to happen... In that case a fuse would not have helped because there isn't a high current condition, just a resistive connection that heated from the load of the fans(which is a high load)...
justbob
10-13-2011, 08:59 AM
FYI... you should always use solder and heat-shrink tubing on all your vehicle connections.

I fully agree, and I do when I have the time and need a good looking install. But, in the tens of thousands of connectors I have installed over the years, I have never once had an issue. I blame the installers that give them the bad rap.

Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
sailsmen
10-13-2011, 09:14 AM
Probably just a bad butt connector connection, which are a disaster waiting to happen... In that case a fuse would not have helped because there isn't a high current condition, just a resistive connection that heated from the load of the fans(which is a high load)...

This makes sense. The mechanic was having health issues and may not have been able to fully crimp. All the 10 guage butt connectors were bad.
Spectragod
10-13-2011, 06:53 PM
A bad crimp connector under high amperage load = a thermal connection, just what you experienced. Anything under the hood should be soldered and heat shrink be used.

The only exception would be a heat shrink connector, but not on a feed that will see high current draw. Good thing your situation didn't turn into a fire.
ImpalaSlayer
10-14-2011, 09:03 AM
FYI... you should always use solder and heat-shrink tubing on all your vehicle connections.
this

all my stuff gets done this way. the best is when guys twist the wires together then tape them. someone about did this on my bronco, im glad i was there because no way in hell that **** was gona happen
B.C. Bake
10-14-2011, 07:02 PM
Probably just a bad butt connector connection, which are a disaster waiting to happen... In that case a fuse would not have helped because there isn't a high current condition, just a resistive connection that heated from the load of the fans(which is a high load)...

Well somewhat......Just as stated, eventually a "high load" condition will result in a high current condition, and will take out the fuse if properly rated that is. IMOA;)