FR Lower Arms - Replace or New Bushings, etc?

[Ozz]

Greetings,
It looks like I'm going to have to work on my lower control arms since replacing the uppers, shocks and springs didn't eliminate the 'pop' in the front end when turning into/out of parking spaces, etc.

I looked at the price at RockAuto for both the full assemblies as well as the components needed.

I came up with 4 scenarios:
1. Cheapo Parts (bushings, ball joints, etc) - $152
Shop Labor (2-3 hrs @ $75 ea) - $150-$225
TOTAL - $302-$377

2. Best Parts (bushings, ball joints, etc) - $264
Shop Labor (2-3 hrs @ $75 ea) - $150 - $225
TOTAL - $414 - $489

3. Cheapo Replacement Arms - $302

4. Best Replacement Arms - $442

I can/will do the disassembly/assembly but would need a garage to remove and press in the new components.

Do you think 2 - 3 hours shop labor is reasonable for both arms?

WHICH IS THE BEST OPTION HERE???

Thanks,
Neil

[MOTOWN]

The best option is not to cheap out on parts where your saftey, and life are concerned, get moog parts, you wont regret it!

[Spectragod]

I would not go cheap on suspension parts, Moog parts are the best that are out there, if you buy the lower arm complete, YOU can install them, it is very easy, no need to spend money on labor.

The lower ball joints and bushings are pretty easy to press in if you go that route.

[fastblackmerc]

I'd go with the best parts. Since some of the parts are aluminum castings I'd be afraid of cracking them when pressing parts in and out.

[Ozz]

That was my fear - I have a bench vice and have done bushings on one of my Mustangs but the control arms were steel. I'm a little hesitant to try pressing my own ball joint and bushings on an aluminum arm. That's why I added labor for a shop to do it.

I'm leaning toward buying the Moog arms, complete. I figure there may be a market for my used aluminum arms(?).

Bottom line though is that I still can't find exactly what is making the noise. When I had it all apart replacing the upper arms, springs and shocks, I was able to move the lower arm fore and aft just a tiny bit by hand. Not sure if that's enough to consider them 'bad' or not. None of the ball joints had any movement in them. I hate to spend $ on new arms and then find out it was my steering linkage or the sway bar.

I figure if it was the steering linkage or sway bar linkage it would pop during regular driving - but it only pops in parking lots, or low speed tight turns.

Thanks.

[fastblackmerc]

That was my fear - I have a bench vice and have done bushings on one of my Mustangs but the control arms were steel. I'm a little hesitant to try pressing my own ball joint and bushings on an aluminum arm. That's why I added labor for a shop to do it.

I'm leaning toward buying the Moog arms, complete. I figure there may be a market for my used aluminum arms(?).

Bottom line though is that I still can't find exactly what is making the noise. When I had it all apart replacing the upper arms, springs and shocks, I was able to move the lower arm fore and aft just a tiny bit by hand. Not sure if that's enough to consider them 'bad' or not. None of the ball joints had any movement in them. I hate to spend $ on new arms and then find out it was my steering linkage or the sway bar.

I figure if it was the steering linkage or sway bar linkage it would pop during regular driving - but it only pops in parking lots, or low speed tight turns.

Thanks.

Remove the sway bar and test.

[babbage]

I need to do this soon too -- going to go with all Moog. Anyone know of a write up on this procedure?

[Ozz]

babbage,
Give me a few days and I'll post the abridged version of the Ford Shop Manuals for all this stuff. It has the proper order to remove things, and the torque specs for all of it too.

It says to replace every nut on the suspension if you remove it but I just put some blue thread locker on the nuts and reused them... The nylon ring at the top of the nuts got pretty chewed up during removal but I think thread locker and proper torque will keep everything tight.

fastblackmerc,
Good Idea... I'll give that a try.

Ozz

[babbage]

babbage,
Give me a few days and I'll post the abridged version of the Ford Shop Manuals for all this stuff. It has the proper order to remove things, and the torque specs for all of it too.

It says to replace every nut on the suspension if you remove it but I just put some blue thread locker on the nuts and reused them... The nylon ring at the top of the nuts got pretty chewed up during removal but I think thread locker and proper torque will keep everything tight.

fastblackmerc,
Good Idea... I'll give that a try.

Ozz

Thanks! I've installed a transmission and longtubes etc by myself on the MM but never have done any front end work.

[napolitano]

Thanks! I've installed a transmission and longtubes etc by myself on the MM but never have done any front end work.

You can do it yourself. Bigcars4ever and me did it two weeks ago. Just make sure you rent the big adapter kit from a parts store that has the adapters for fords. And like FBM said go with moogs or I went with moog lower ballpoints and mevotech upper arms with the joints in them already.

[Ozz]

I need to do this soon too -- going to go with all Moog. Anyone know of a write up on this procedure?

Done:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1109062#post1 109062

[babbage]

Done:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?p=1109062#post1 109062


:bows:


Awesome, Thanks a million.

:beer:

Now I just have to buy all of the Moog parts and new springs and shocks.

[Ozz]

Just an update to close out this thread.

I installed a set of Moog lower control arms and the 'pop' in my front end is gone. Both ball joints were 'flopping' around when I took the arms off. I'm guessing they are both bad.