id like to be in the mid 14's

[whitey]

im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey

[PonyUP]

I got 4.10's, very little effect on mileage, great effect at the track. I just ran 14.3 with very crappy reaction times, if I hit a good tree I'd be in the 13s. I got a tune, CAI, LT headers and 4.10's


Pony seal of Approval

[kmastl]

If you drive under 70 mph you wont notice hardly any mileage drop at all with 4.10's, and they should put you in the mid 14's. I've noticed anything over 75 mph or 2500 rpm on the highway eats gas a lot faster. Another option to consider would be cobra intake cams *properly degreed* or a higher stall tq converter.

Btw the catch can wont gain any power but will keep you intake clean of blow by oil

[fastblackmerc]

im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey

I'd go with the JLT CAI, under drive pulleys & 4.10's.

You will lose 1 - 2 MPG with the 4.10's, just drive at the speed limit.

[whitey]

ive heard the catch can thing is debateable, oil makes the octane lower, no it doesn't, yes it does,...im not one to argue, i think it looks sweet, and it serves its pupose. well if the 4.10's wont affect mileage much, i might have to contact twin03 with his hook-up:D

[whitey]

if i get a cai, it will be musclemerc's, i trust him and his testing and i've talked to him about this, no offense, i appreciate the advice!

anybody know of a reputeable mechanic in md that installs 4.10's for lets say ~$300......im not sure if $300 is average..or if im just cheap..

[slickster]

I really don't mean to **** block and I'm really sorry for saying this but there's no reason for a 400 cai. Unless your na modded out rich and really bored. Go with the jlt cai $160 and sounds nice. 410 (keep it at 70 and under) pulleys. Then you will be at least 14.5 or better. Later when u get more cash go with cobra cams and or headers

[slickster]

Do you have a 410 file in your tuner

[PonyUP]

I wish, I can't even access my tuner because it's password protected from the guy I bought it from. I'm gonna take it to Mo's this spring and get it Dyno'd


Pony seal of Approval

[01LXHPP]

While I'm sure his CAI works great, it looks SO home made, and 400 dollars is absolutely retarded for a home made CAI. If your really worried about IAT's, delete the silencer and put a K&N drop in filter in your stock airbox and leave it at that.

I never really liked UDP's, I've heard issues with them like charging problems for one.


4.10's are awesome, definitely go with them. These cars were supposed to come from the factory with 4.10's anyways

[SC Cheesehead]

While I'm sure his CAI works great, it looks SO home made, and 400 dollars is absolutely retarded for a home made CAI. If your really worried about IAT's, delete the silencer and put a K&N drop in filter in your stock airbox and leave it at that.

I never really liked UDP's, I've heard issues with them like charging problems for one.


4.10's are awesome, definitely go with them. These cars were supposed to come from the factory with 4.10's anyways

Only at idle, and with all the accessories running. A 200 -300 rpm bump via your tuner takes care of that.

[Ktorres1]

I'd go with the JLT CAI, under drive pulleys & 4.10's.

You will lose 1 - 2 MPG with the 4.10's, just drive at the speed limit.

Everything I was gonna write right here!

[bigmerc281]

Since were on the subject. I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what would a k&n cai 410'S and a tune do on the 1/4 mile

[01LXHPP]

Only at idle, and with all the accessories running. A 200 -300 rpm bump via your tuner takes care of that.

I just never really trusted them, I have a friend that has them on his crown vic and while I never notice any side effects, I just don't want to decrease the performance of my alt and A/C compressor to gain 5hp.... If you want to swap pullies, do it on the supercharger :D



Since were on the subject. I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what would a k&n cai 410'S and a tune do on the 1/4 mile

Depends on what tune you have, but right around a 14.5 would be the average.

[guspech750]

I had UDP on my car and loved them. No charging issues. Nothing but more fun. Bump up the rpms a little and problem solved if you have to.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[Mr. Man]

Since were on the subject. I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what would a k&n cai 410'S and a tune do on the 1/4 mile
The K&N is more aesthetically pleasing to some. Performance will be about the same. I understand the JLT may have a slightly more aggressive sound under hard throttle, and of course the JLT is less costly. :)

[MOTOWN]

The K&N is more aesthetically pleasing to some. Performance will be about the same. I understand the JLT may have a slightly more aggressive sound under hard throttle, and of course the JLT is less costly. :)

I guess everyones mods yeild different results, mine made a real big difference!

I remember after installing mine, my buddy who had a blue got one also, i dont remember what he thought of it, but he kept it when he sold the car.

[massacre]

Musclemerc's CAI might be pricey, but it works.

[SID210SA]

im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey


I'll tell you this much....all I added was the JLT and a Lidio tune and I ran 14.6 in the 1/4...and my reaction time are not all that, almost 1/2 a second.

[bolsen]

Musclemerc's CAI might be pricey, but it works.
They all do.

[babbage]

im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey

If you want mid 14's all you need is a new torque converter (3200 stall) cost about $750 and another $250.00 to install. That's all you need to hit 14.5's with a tune.

Reinhart has a BETTER oil catch can for about $40.00! Don't waste your money on the MM catch can. I had one and took it off as it wasn't working. (oil in the intake)

Also I think musclemerc's design of the CAI is poor, while the air might be "cold" the cfm is very poor. Uses a stock filter with less surface area than factory (frame occupies filter outer filter area) Engine is an air pump, you want a cone with greater surface area -- JLT or K&N, Reinhart one has a nice heat shield and cone filter. More CFM = more faster..

[babbage]

I got 4.10's, very little effect on mileage, great effect at the track. I just ran 14.3 with very crappy reaction times, if I hit a good tree I'd be in the 13s. I got a tune, CAI, LT headers and 4.10's


Pony seal of Approval

reaction time does nothing for e.t.

[Blackened300a]

if i get a cai, it will be musclemerc's, i trust him and his testing and i've talked to him about this, no offense, i appreciate the advice!

anybody know of a reputeable mechanic in md that installs 4.10's for lets say ~$300......im not sure if $300 is average..or if im just cheap..

$300 is what a good friend would charge. You'll also need a install kit and a updated tune for the new ratio so you may wanna add a couple of hundred to that budget you set.


While I'm sure his CAI works great, it looks SO home made, and 400 dollars is absolutely retarded for a home made CAI. If your really worried about IAT's, delete the silencer and put a K&N drop in filter in your stock airbox and leave it at that.

I never really liked UDP's, I've heard issues with them like charging problems for one.


4.10's are awesome, definitely go with them. These cars were supposed to come from the factory with 4.10's anyways

Im not a fan of the MuscleMerc CAI. I agree it looks homemade. I don't care how it performs or flows, it just looks like it don't belong under the hood, but in my truck with a speaker inside of it.
Bump the idle in the tune and no more charging issues. Steve Babcock said himself that 4.10's were the gear of choice for these cars. MPG regulations thought otherwise.


Since were on the subject. I don't mean to hijack this thread. But what would a k&n cai 410'S and a tune do on the 1/4 mile
You'll knock off .5 -.7 tenths off your E.T with that combo. The tune makes a world of difference, the gears and the CAI are worth about 3 tenths combined.


I'll tell you this much....all I added was the JLT and a Lidio tune and I ran 14.6 in the 1/4...and my reaction time are not all that, almost 1/2 a second.

Your reaction time could be 5 minutes, the timer don't start until you break the beam.

[Bradley G]

Real life experiences tell me otherwise, ie; hot day sitting in traffic go to punch it ,.. :puke: And I have one
They all do.

[whitey]

Also I think musclemerc's design of the CAI is poor, while the air might be "cold" the cfm is very poor. Uses a stock filter with less surface area than factory (frame occupies filter outer filter area) Engine is an air pump, you want a cone with greater surface area -- JLT or K&N, Reinhart one has a nice heat shield and cone filter. More CFM = more faster..

as far as i know, a CAI, is supposed to flow cold air, not warm air thats been sittin' in the engine bay. his CAI is exactly what a CAI is. i could careless about a chrome intake tube, im not DOOM, and i'll never be able to compete with him and his engine:beer:, jlt has a 4" tube....with the cone's discharge at 3"....a reducing coupling attaching the 2....i dont see how that 'works', fantastic if it does! reinhart has a better intake than jlt(in my opinion), but i personally like the looks of musclemercs intake, to each is own, i like proven results.

[Blackened300a]

i like proven results.

Have CFM and HP numbers? Whats been proven?

[whitey]

$300 is what a good friend would charge. You'll also need a install kit and a updated tune for the new ratio so you may wanna add a couple of hundred to that budget you set.

who wants to be whitey's good friend!?!?:D:bows::D

[slickster]

The only proof he's got is a few deg colder iat at idle. What good is that to pull a tad bit more timing. What good is that nothing really. Like I said if your really bored. So here's the result 400 for a few deg colder at idle, yea cause I like to gun my car in traffic

[tbone]

I went to Ford to get mine installed. It was $350 and included new bearings.

[01LXHPP]

i like proven results.


Dyno your car

Buy his homemade 400 dollar intake

Redyno car

If you pick up anything thats substantial over the average gains from a K&N or JLT, I'll soak my JLT in gasoline, throw a match at it, and go buy a MM intake.

[guspech750]

I paid $300 for my gear install at a local speed shop Deans Performance 15 min from my house.


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[babbage]

as far as i know, a CAI, is supposed to flow cold air, not warm air thats been sittin' in the engine bay. his CAI is exactly what a CAI is. i could careless about a chrome intake tube, im not DOOM, and i'll never be able to compete with him and his engine:beer:, jlt has a 4" tube....with the cone's discharge at 3"....a reducing coupling attaching the 2....i dont see how that 'works', fantastic if it does! reinhart has a better intake than jlt(in my opinion), but i personally like the looks of musclemercs intake, to each is own, i like proven results.

No flowbench data, No drag data, No dyno data. But Yeah it's "proven"

Anyone can clearly see the air comes into a big box with hard edges and corners, then has to make its way from a huge square lunchbox into a small round tube after the air bounces off the walls a couple of times loosing momentum, then it gets out of the tube and makes another non-smooth awkward turn, then finally into your body. The K&N and JLT tubes have totally smooth transitions. You will have 2 "roadblocks" Any time you have to change direction you loose speed and momentum. I wonder why the factory airbox has a nice smooth arced top?

Put that sucker on and drag it, I'll bet you there is zero gain. I thought you said you wanted to go faster? :confused:

[ctrlraven]

I did 14.35 with a JLT intake, DR tune, plugs, coil connectors, flow master mufflers, stock exhaust besides the res-delete tips and I think I had 235/50-18 on the rears.

Removed 2nd set of cats and went to a 255/55-18 rear and went 14.25.

If you are working with a budget go with the JLT, UD pulleys and 4.10 gears.

[jstevens]

No flowbench data, No drag data, No dyno data. But Yeah it's "proven"

Anyone can clearly see the air comes into a big box with hard edges and corners, then has to make its way from a huge square lunchbox into a small round tube after the air bounces off the walls a couple of times loosing momentum, then it gets out of the tube and makes another non-smooth awkward turn, then finally into your body. The K&N and JLT tubes have totally smooth transitions. You will have 2 "roadblocks" Any time you have to change direction you loose speed and momentum. I wonder why the factory airbox has a nice smooth arced top?

Put that sucker on and drag it, I'll bet you there is zero gain. I thought you said you wanted to go faster? :confused:

You bring up some valid arguments. I would kill to see a dyno with both ways. After all the lunchbox pulls in air from behind the headlight versus pulling in air from the engine area.

Therefore you have denser air which should make you go faster.

[Pops]

He also cut out the core support in front of his air box if I got it right. Is that what you want to do to your car?

[slickster]

You bring up some valid arguments. I would kill to see a dyno with both ways. After all the lunchbox pulls in air from behind the headlight versus pulling in air from the engine area.

Therefore you have denser air which should make you go faster.

This is only at 5mph or under. Once you get going all the air comes up from underneath and you get the same air temp as from the headlight. Air intake temp are only a few deg colder at idle once you get to around 5mph or over it's all the same. Jlt and k&n have heat shelds

[jstevens]

Core support? I did not know that was a core support. Good point. I don't like chopping anything up.

I like the over 5mph thing. Wasn't sure if that was real, but it does make sense. I feel better now with my K & N.

[SID210SA]

Your reaction time could be 5 minutes, the timer don't start until you break the beam.

Thanks for that.....wasnt thinking when I typed it....but thanks....

irrigardless....I still ran a 14.6 with just the Lidio tune and JLT.....no head light out....stock tires stock everything else....trunck with full size spare, speaker box with 2 12" subs....and if I could loose about 50 lbs myself....lol:beer:

I guess if I took everything out of the trunk....put in some 4.10's I might get low low 14's....that would be cool.

[Blackened300a]

Thanks for that.....wasnt thinking when I typed it....but thanks....

irrigardless....I still ran a 14.6 with just the Lidio tune and JLT.....no head light out....stock tires stock everything else....trunck with full size spare, speaker box with 2 12" subs....and if I could loose about 50 lbs myself....lol:beer:

I guess if I took everything out of the trunk....put in some 4.10's I might get low low 14's....that would be cool.

Im questioning taking the headlight out. I did back to back runs with it in and with it out at several track meets and I saw zero difference.

The rule of thumb is that every 100lbs less is a tenth faster, every 1000lbs lighter is a second faster.

[Spectragod]

im not really sure what would put me there, but heres what i was thinking:
already have a sct xcal2, currently running a zack tune, and the j-mod has been done. if i have around $1000 to work with, which probably isn't enough, but i'll try....musclemerc's cold air intake ~$420, musclemercs oil catch can $150, steeda underdrive pulleys $200. these are all parts i know i could install myself, i still have the 3.55 gears, and was thinking of 4.10's(which i can't install myself)....but i drive around 90 miles a day, and im not sure how much those gears would affect my mpg. any input would be great, thanks guys.--whitey

Gears, tune, JLT, $1k, your times will be where you want them, if you want to multiply that by say.... 20, I can tell you how to make it real fast. :D :burnout:

[SID210SA]

Im questioning taking the headlight out. I did back to back runs with it in and with it out at several track meets and I saw zero difference.

The rule of thumb is that every 100lbs less is a tenth faster, every 1000lbs lighter is a second faster.

Yeah...I just saw that in the previous post.....

good info....how much does gas weigh per gallon....maybe I should try going with less than a half tank of gas too.

[jstevens]

I thought I read that 1 gallon = 5 lbs.

Just googled it, 7 lbs. Wow, so 1/2 tank = 9 gallons = 67 lbs.

[1 Bad Merc]

I was running 14.4-14.6's on 4.10's, Jmod, Reinhardt tune, plugs and a KN airfilter in the stock air box. I did eliminate the silencer which helped in the noise dept. I also let some air out of the stock tires to grab a little bit more.

I believe Barry -Cruztaker was also running the above with UD's,shorty headers,3500 stall, bigger fuel pump/injectors and sticky tires and he was in the 13's. He also was changing his' tune parameters depending on how his' car was running at the track. This made me a big believer in how the tuning really effects these cars.

Dont waste your money on alot of crap -if you really want to go fast save up your money and get a supercharger kit. You dont even need to change the gears and you will be in the 12's. Just my .02.

[BigCars4Ever]

I run 14.3's and my only go fast mods are a tune, a spectre filter with the stock air tube and a JLT Shield and 4.10's. The 4.10's and tune are by far the biggest improvement for me. Of course no two motors go together the same so your results may vary.

[ctrlraven]

Gasoline weights are based on averages that will vary with temperature and additives due to weather. Roughly 6-7 lbs is the range.

[whitey]

what about an intake spacer like this one: http://www.reinhartperformance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=MM-PHPIS&Category_Code=9

is that something a mechanic should do or could jolly marauder owner do that himself?

[breeze]

zach tune, JLT, 4.10s ran a 14.001

[babbage]

what about an intake spacer like this one: http://www.reinhartperformance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=MM-PHPIS&Category_Code=9

is that something a mechanic should do or could jolly marauder owner do that himself?

Jolly Marauder owner could do easily. The gain is small but it is a gain. You want to take the upper right off so you can clean it, and spray the lower down good too. EGR pipe can be a bit of a pain to reattach. Get the oil seperator from Reinhart too. http://www.reinhartperformance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=12345&Product_Code=MM&Category_Code=9 It's a very good deal, when you install the spacer you'll see why you need it.