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STRAN
11-24-2011, 09:46 AM
So, I did a search.

I am trying to pull my trans over the holiday. I have been stopped dead by the drive shaft bolts, the ones that attach it to the diff. They have a unique head. My question is what do I use to get then out, the standard socket/wrench do not work.
fastblackmerc
11-24-2011, 09:48 AM
So, I did a search.

I am trying to pull my trans over the holiday. I have been stopped dead by the drive shaft bolts, the ones that attach it to the diff. They have a unique head. My question is what do I use to get then out, the standard socket/wrench do not work.

You need a socket with internal splines. Don't remember the size.

Most FLAPS will carry either a single socket or a set of them.

Harbor Freight or Northern Tools carry them also as well as Sears.
STRAN
11-24-2011, 09:57 AM
FLAPS?

The internal splines, that is what I needed to know, I whould not have known what to ask for. I will buy a full set as any excuse for more tools is a good thing. Just trying to find the good in a problem.
fastblackmerc
11-24-2011, 09:59 AM
FLAPS?

The internal splines, that is what I needed to know, I whould not have known what to ask for. I will buy a full set as any excuse for more tools is a good thing. Just trying to find the good in a problem.

FLAPS = Friendly Local Auto Parts Store

I'd pickup some RED Locktite while your there.
STRAN
11-24-2011, 11:26 AM
Got the locktite, thanks.
And for anyone who is curious here is a photo of said bolts.
JWehr
11-24-2011, 11:30 AM
Heat will also help you remove them because of the locktite.
01LXHPP
11-24-2011, 11:46 AM
Its a 12 point bolt, so you need a 12 point socket. I can't remember exactly, but I believe its in between a 10 and 13mm size, if I had to guess I'd say 13mm...


Edit: My ford tech CD doesn't even list a size, but it has a part number : N800594-S100

Upon googling, this is a 12mm, 12 point bolt. Ford says either replace the bolts, or, as most of us do, use red loctite.


For removal of the driveshaft:
CAUTION: The driveshaft centering socket yoke fits tightly on the rear axle pinion flange pilot. Never hammer on the driveshaft (4602) or any of its components to disconnect the yoke from the flange. Pry only in the area shown, with a suitable tool, to disconnect the yoke from the flange.
Using a suitable tool as shown, disconnect the driveshaft centering socket yoke from the rear axle pinion flange.
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd368/ModularMadness/cf45891f.gif

For re installation
http://i1216.photobucket.com/albums/dd368/ModularMadness/6dcb8dd8.gif


Before you take it off, if you don't see the yellow mark, mark it yourself so you know which way it goes back in. Putting the DS back in how it came out helps to prevent any new driveline vibrations. But looking at your picture, I see a silver mark, so just remember to line that back up.
boatmangc
11-24-2011, 11:50 AM
Its a 12 point bolt, so you need a 12 point socket. I can't remember exactly, but I believe its in between a 10 and 13mm size, if I had to guess I'd say 13mm...
I think they were 13MM
Definitely a simple 12 point socket, although I used a 12 point universal impact socket and my 1/2" Snap On battery gun. No problem
ImpalaSlayer
11-24-2011, 11:56 AM
as said above, there is nothing unique or crazy about these bolts, they are just 12 pt bolts and you need a 12 pt socket or wrench to get em off. they are going to be tight.
01LXHPP
11-24-2011, 11:57 AM
I think they were 13MM
Definitely a simple 12 point socket, although I used a 12 point universal impact socket and my 1/2" Snap On battery gun. No problem

We were wrong :P

http://www.google.com/products/catalog?q=N800594-S100&oe=utf-8&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&um=1&ie=UTF-8&tbm=shop&cid=3403253415785201837&sa=X&ei=YZPOTtWrHMTW0QHq0oUI&ved=0CDQQ8wIwAw

http://lh5.googleusercontent.com/public/GUxQhlJ5v8e_acNJ-r2SdaihYjFPTN__h-sp46EvoMW6bV9U6HpS8ZKXcBoFpZzK gfSugtBCEboS4JI3z6DyBFZljJ3zet MneR_MxrnXwhfDftAwI9gfbaKyHDvg CQtXopih-Ka8hO4DRrKsMgaTZXI4_Zpk6nMeHW1 P-DzHMXKBQb0

N800594-S100 - Ford Bolt

$2 online

This is a Ford OEM direct replacement 12 point, 12mm driveshaft bolt. Works with both stock and aftermarket drive shafts. Sold individually, car requires 4.
STRAN
11-24-2011, 12:13 PM
Wow, great info guys, wouldn't have anything to do with all of us sitting around on T-day, wathing the lions and Packers play?

I am using a on line shop manual called 'ALLDATAdiy' it is reasonable but I suspect the Ford Tech CD is better, (Thanks 01XLHPP).

So I think I will turn this into a trans pull thread (I know it should be in the tranmission forum but can we leave it here for now?) and to that end here is a photo of the start. We all like pictures, right?
Vortech347
11-24-2011, 01:33 PM
Cake

Take a 12mm box wrench, and put a your heel on it and push. They'll come right off.

The other option is to double it up with a 13mm wrench.

Do 2 at a time so you'll only have to rotate the driveshaft once.
STRAN
11-24-2011, 06:48 PM
the 12mm box wrench fits, but those bolts are stuck fast. of course my torch is empty so tomorrow it is off to the hardward store. In the meantime one of my sons hit them with PB Blaster, not sure that will do much good though.
ImpalaSlayer
11-24-2011, 06:50 PM
the 12mm box wrench fits, but those bolts are stuck fast. of course my torch is empty so tomorrow it is off to the hardward store. In the meantime one of my sons hit them with PB Blaster, not sure that will do much good though.

did you try a pipe?
Chevyguy
11-24-2011, 08:07 PM
I bitterly remember those are 12 mm 12 point as I had to use my little box wrench to get them off my 2001 as I had no 12 point sockets
TFB
11-24-2011, 08:14 PM
I believe Snap-On and probably other tool co have a special 1/2" drive 12mm socket just for those, a smack with the impact and they give up fairly easily...

I've used the 13mm(or maybe even larger)wrench trick locked into the 12mm to break them loose...
Phrog_gunner
11-24-2011, 08:19 PM
Wow a Discount Auto Parts creeper. Are you from FL?
Spectragod
11-24-2011, 08:21 PM
did you try a pipe?

Nah...I quit hitting the rock a couple of years ago......:D
TFB
11-24-2011, 08:29 PM
For those who maybe have not used the ole locked together wrench trick...

http://members.cox.net/rlcarey69/wrenchlock.jpg
ImpalaSlayer
11-24-2011, 08:39 PM
For those who maybe have not used the ole locked together wrench trick...

http://members.cox.net/rlcarey69/wrenchlock.jpg

works great till it slips and you punch hard metal stuff lol
Phrog_gunner
11-24-2011, 08:41 PM
I'd be more worried about people finding out I have a Hello Kitty Corvette than smashing my knuckles. ;)
TFB
11-24-2011, 08:46 PM
I'd be more worried about people finding out I have a Hello Kitty Corvette than smashing my knuckles. ;)

I only take it out on weekends when Case & I cruse those certain parts of town....
Phrog_gunner
11-24-2011, 08:48 PM
I only take it out on weekends when Case & I cruse those certain parts of town....


And he always pays for beer AND gas. :beer:
STRAN
11-25-2011, 03:03 PM
Got the 12mm off with some heat and leverage, same for the drive shaft.

Now my next issue is the torque converter stud, it needs to be marked for correct alignment and the picture of it is a bit vague. Any one got a good diagram of this?
CBT
11-25-2011, 04:02 PM
And he always pays for beer AND gas. :beer:
We wear wigs and go all Thelma and Louise in that little car, good times!
MyBlackBeasts
11-25-2011, 04:12 PM
Got the locktite, thanks.
And for anyone who is curious here is a photo of said bolts.

Just use a 12pt socket. Nothing special.
STRAN
11-25-2011, 04:46 PM
So I moved on to the removing the Exhaust and hit another wall. The upper bolt is in a tight spot and of course I do not have a 15mm deep socket AND the wife has the car, so, stopped again. I had finally splurrged on an impact gun (HF $25) just in case I needed it. Of course the compressor tripped the breaker, then a GFI on a different outlet, and the GFI on the extension cord reel. hahahahahaha. I am having so much fun.
CBT
11-25-2011, 04:49 PM
Holy crap, man! :lol:
The story isn't really funny but in a way, it is kind of funny. Sounds like the car does not want to be worked on, some Christine action going on.
STRAN
11-26-2011, 01:21 PM
Good news! Got a 15mm at the FLAPS andwith a bi tof heat that upper bolt came right out, SWEET! The the lower bolt crosseded threaded! AARRRGH. I eventually cut it off with my Dremal (favorite tool) but that stud is toast. I have been at this for two days and have only gotten the driveshaft out. I have never had a bolt cross thread on the way off, so as a percaution for the othere side I am going to break them loose and then hit them with some PB Blaster. I am not sure how much trouble I am in with that stud but it will have to wait.

(update) the driver side exhaust bolt are easy access and stuck fast!!! currently soaking in PB Blaster, love the smell of that stuff.
justbob
11-26-2011, 01:58 PM
The stud has a nut of its own atleast. Try to tighten a tad before backing it out. Works "almost" everytime.

This post is rated E for everyone.
STRAN
11-27-2011, 04:28 PM
Defeat.
I got to the tranmission crossmember and can go no further. The Nuts and bolts holding that puppy on are stronger than me. So i am going to rob Peter to pay Paul and have a shop take over, hard times are a-comin'. However I was cleaning up and it occured to me to grind the head of the bolts off and knock them through. But the instruction manual says the cross member is PRESSED into the frame and to not damage it on removal. Now how the hell would I get that out and better yet how would I get it back in. It is going to a shop.
Spectragod
11-27-2011, 05:52 PM
Once the bolts are out, a long prybar will get the cross member out of the frame, it will go back in, just takes a little doing to get it in place.
ImpalaSlayer
11-27-2011, 05:58 PM
Once the bolts are out, a long prybar will get the cross member out of the frame, it will go back in, just takes a little doing to get it in place.
bolts came right out on mine, the nuts are welded to the back side of it so no need for a wrench. it was harder getting the x member off then getting the bolts out
99SVT
11-27-2011, 07:22 PM
Once the bolts are out, a long prybar will get the cross member out of the frame, it will go back in, just takes a little doing to get it in place.

I had to use a chain, block of wood, an old axle and a floor jack to get mine out.

Block of wood on the frame as a fulcrum with the axle up against it; chain around the axle and x-member, jack on other end of axle. The entire car rang like a bell when it finally let go.
STRAN
11-28-2011, 03:05 PM
bolts came right out on mine, the nuts are welded to the back side of it so no need for a wrench. it was harder getting the x member off then getting the bolts out


Yup, that was it. I was trying to remove the welded nuts. I am still taking it to a shop; if something fails in the tranny do to the shop I do not want the hassel of being told it was my installation.