Idea For Filling New Oil Filters???

[Marauderjack]

Hey Guys....

I have been filling the new oil filters on my Cobra for three years by pulling the coil wire and cranking until the pressure comes up.;) I then reconnect it and Vroom...All is well and no "Dry Starts"!! :rock:

Now what if I pulled the fuse that runs the fuel pump on the Marauder and crank it until the pressure comes up?? Plug the fuse back in and Vroom...Pop...Pop!! :confused: No dry start!! :D I'll bet the ole computer will have a fit when there is no fuel pressure??? :bows: Anybody have any idea if this will work?? :confused:

If so we could build a delay circuit for normal starts and also avoid "Dry-ish Starts" every time we start?? :D Also negate the need for an expensive "Pre-Oiler" system?? ;)

Ok.....Flame suit is zzzziped up.....Have at it!!! :rasta:

Marauderjack :D

[RF Overlord]

I guess my first question is: why?

Most people don't have pre-lubers or pre-oilers and millions of engines without them routinely go 150-200,000 miles...with 3000-mile oil changes, that would be, what, 66 "dry starts"...if you run full synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles, that's only 40 "dry starts"...and they're not really "dry"...I just don't see what all the fuss is...

I guess the whole idea of a pre-oiler or your suggestion about pulling the fuel pump fuse would have more merit if your car was a driveway queen that sat for months at a time without being started or was in a museum or something...

1985 Chevrolet Citation X-11...221,000 miles...
1994 Thunderbird SC...152,000 miles...

no pre-lubing or advance pressure building...and no major repairs...

[TAF]

I guess my first question is: why?

Most people don't have pre-lubers or pre-oilers and millions of engines without them routinely go 150-200,000 miles...with 3000-mile oil changes, that would be, what, 66 "dry starts"...if you run full synthetic oil and change it every 5,000 miles, that's only 40 "dry starts"...and they're not really "dry"...I just don't see what all the fuss is...

I guess the whole idea of a pre-oiler or your suggestion about pulling the fuel pump fuse would have more merit if your car was a driveway queen that sat for months at a time without being started or was in a museum or something...

1985 Chevrolet Citation X-11...221,000 miles...
1994 Thunderbird SC...152,000 miles...

no pre-lubing or advance pressure building...and no major repairs...
I was wondering how long it was going to take you....you can smell an "oil thread" from miles away :lol:

[sailsmen]

I fill the new filter with oil before I install it.

[CRUZTAKER]

OK, I'm confused:confused:

Aside from the filter, what else is dry after an oil change? I mean, I realize we drain the oil, but no one is wiping the inside of the motor down....are they?

[RF Overlord]

I was wondering how long it was going to take you....you can smell an "oil thread" from miles away :lol:

Bastage...

[SergntMac]

I guess my first question is: why? 1985 Chevrolet Citation X-11...221,000 miles...1994 Thunderbird SC...152,000 miles...no pre-lubing or advance pressure building...and no major repairs...

Yes...Why?

Damnit...Where can you get a good Gort when you need one, eh?

[Long Live #3]

I just put a little bit of oil on the rings and put the filter on.

[TheDealer]

I think cranking it a that low of an RPM would be worse than starting it. If you fill the filter you will have oil pressure almost instantly. Remember your oil pressure guage is electic no mechanical. Some of my race cars have mechanical guages and my oil pressure is up almost instantly. Others have said it, the engine is far from dry. Drain your oil, let every last drop drip out. Now tear the engine apart and see how much oil is in there. It's still lubricated. A fresh engine will usually how and extra half of a qt because it was dry. Just my .02. RAY

[Marauderjack]

Hey Boys....

Most of this stuff is "Between Our Ears" and we want to do what we think is the right thing!! :cool4:

If you drain the crank case and put on a new filter (I cannot imagine how messy and oil filled filter woud be)...Crank it and listen to the rods knock for a few seconds as the computer takes it instantly to 1500 RPM's!!! :nono:

I had over 200,000 miles on my 2000 CV and it did it every time as well with no apparent damage but the computer didn't rev it up like in the MM?? :rolleyes:

I just don't like to hear any rod or crank knock no matter how short in duration!! :nono:

Marauderjack :)

[Todd TCE]

Coming from the racing side of the business, I just pre fill the fliter on nearly every car and let it go at that. Only on some real specific motors do we fully crank over from cold to start. This is usually due to the motor being dry sump and the bottom of the motor gettting full of oil from drain back over timem, even over night. If the motor were to be lit right off you'd slam the crank into the oil and run the risk of damage.

Just fill the filter before installing it and you'll be fine.

[Heavy351]

The bearings and cylinder walls are far from dry, especially when you change the oil on a warm motor. Most fleet service shops don't bother prefilling the filter. I have torn down a few 351W's that have oil still in the bearings after sitting on the ground outside for years. But if I could do it without making a mess, why not?

[Murader03]

Jack: When I change my filter, I always fill it with fresh oil before I install it. I've done this on all my cars including a '92 CVSport, '96 T-Bird, '94 Mustang GT, '96 Cobra, '99 Cobra, and now the MM. There is no oil spilled when doing this. The filter will hold almost the entire quart, but I only pour in about 3/4's. The '92 CV had 125K when I got rid of it, with no engine problens what-so-ever. The '99 Cobra had 100K when I opted to traded for the MM. Again, no engine problems. As you can see by other posts, most of us don't see a problem here. If you go out in the morning after your car has set over night, it's almost the same as starting after the oil/filter change, excecpt the filter is basically full. :beer:

[BillyGman]

Jack: If you go out in the morning after your car has set over night, it's almost the same as starting after the oil/filter change, excecpt the filter is basically full. :beer:

...an excellent point. So the only way that you can really say that anything is different is if you were to install a pre-oiler which ofcourse is electricaly operated and turns on to pump the oil through the engine before it's started every time you turn the key. And I'm not so sure that's really neccessary.

[nslatin]

If you pre-fill your filter, would this mean that you are now using 7 qts of oil?

[RF Overlord]

If you pre-fill your filter, would this mean that you are now using 7 qts of oil?

No. The motor's oil capacity of 6 quarts is inclusive of the filter...whether you fill it or the oil pump does, it's the same thing...

[MENINBLK]

How much oil can you really put in the filter when the filter goes on SIDEWAYS ???

Do what I plan on doing and you won't worry about a thing.

Use Mobil 1 oil and a K&N HP-2010 Oil Filter.

I did it on the Duratec Engine in my Contour and never had any bearing knock or other problems,
when everyone else was crying about timing chain knocks caused by oil drain back.
The Duratec and the Intec both use the same Motorcraft Oil filter.
The K&N Oil Filter has a Higher Flow Rate, a anti-drain valve, better filtering capabilities, and a pressure relief by-pass valve if needed.
It also has a NUT on the top of the filter to factilitate installation and removal.

Dry starts won't be a problem if you use Mobil 1 oil.

[jgc61sr2002]

No. The motor's oil capacity of 6 quarts is inclusive of the filter...whether you fill it or the oil pump does, it's the same thing...
What RF said. ^^^^^^

[MapleLeafMerc]

I was wondering how long it was going to take you....you can smell an "oil thread" from miles away :lol:

Based on posts after yours, Todd, I'd say you've a pretty good sense of smell!

I keep seeing subtle notes about "oil threads". I'm not sure why. Maybe it's because even though it's impossible to scientifically, conclusively state which brand is better, we all develop favourites.

While we're on the subject, I have a question on oil. I'll start a thread/poll called "Oil Changing' in the Garage.

[MENINBLK]

I keep seeing subtle notes about "oil threads". I'm not sure why. Maybe it's because even though it's impossible to scientifically, conclusively state which brand is better, we all develop favourites.

I don't know why you say this...

Testing has proven that the two best brands of Motor Oil products are Mobil 1 and Amsoil.

Testing has also shown how oil filters stack up also.

[Smokie]

Oil...:shake:....Oil...:confus ed: ...Oil...:depress: ...Oil...:uzi:

[Dr Caleb]

I don't know why you say this...

Testing has proven that the two best brands of Motor Oil products are Mobil 1 and Amsoil.

Testing has also shown how oil filters stack up also.

Dude, trust me on this one, do not continue on this line of conversation.

Everyone always has the best of intentions when discussing this subject, but it always ends up badly.

Oil threads on a car forum just lead to bad feelings, or Logan closing the thread.

[MENINBLK]

Dude, trust me on this one, do not continue on this line of conversation.

Everyone always has the best of intentions when discussing this subject, but it always ends up badly.

Oil threads on a car forum just lead to bad feelings, or Logan closing the thread.

I don't know why ?
There are some very interesting facts that are found when comparing lubricants.
Some oxidize faster than others, while some have higher flash points.
There has been some very extensive testing by Roush Labs and SVT, and third parties,
on all types of lubricants and filters, and the results thay have found serve only to educate us
on what kind of performance we are buying with our money !

A little education for all of us, can certainly lead to us not only getting our money's worth when making purchases,
but extending the life of the beautiful vehicles we love to drive everyday.

Isn't the purpose of sites like this, to educate ourselves, share our knowledge, and share our friendship / ownership ?
If that isn't the purpose of this site, then what is ?

[Marauderjack]

Hey Folks....

Almost any oil will protect your engine if kept cool, clean and changed frequently!! :cool4:

My gripe is the fact that my car revs to 1500+ RPM's and the empty filter allows the bottom end and/or pistons to rattle like crazy for a couple of seconds!! Once the oil system is filled it starts fine with no rattling!! ;) All I want to do is prevent the noise after installing a new..dry filter. :help:

It probably doesn't hurt a thing but all you hear is that cold starts cause the most wear in engines....My feeling is that dry starts, no matter how short in duration, hurt the engine even more.....At least it sounds like it!! :confused:

I guess I'll get a pre-oiler and forget it?? :(

Marauderjack :D

[Dr Caleb]

I don't know why ?
There are some very interesting facts that are found when comparing lubricants.

Isn't the purpose of sites like this, to educate ourselves, share our knowledge, and share our friendship / ownership ?

If that isn't the purpose of this site, then what is ?

I know there are many interesting facts, but the truth is all the issues have been done to death.

Sharing information is what this place is all about, but in the past, discussions dealing with lubricants and filters - call them 'oil threads' - tend to turn nasty. Everyone has their preference, everyone has their own method. Everyone wants to convince everyone else that their way is best.

It's like discussing pro-life vs pro-choice on a political site :) Nasty!

I'm only warning you because you look fairly new here, so I felt a little historical context was in order :) Nothing personal, just trying to save the newbie a painful floggin once Marty sees this thread :argue: :)

Search this site for "Amsiol Mobil1 synthetic semi-synthetic motocraft" and you'll find the infamous threads.

[MENINBLK]

Thanks for the heads up Glenn.

I am new to this site, but I have been on the Contour.org site for over three years,
and I am the Transaxle Forum Moderator there as well.

I know of the dangers of discussions but at the Contour.org site, as many discussions as we have had about lubricants,
they have mostly been discussions that have ended up as, "I didn't know that?... What is the best product to buy
if I only want to spend $xyz for an oil change?... What Oil filters are good for street / strip use?... etc."
It never got heated and the discussions were always calm, cool, and very enlightening.

Could Marauder Owners just be MORE PASSIONATE about their vehicles ?

I will do a search on this site and see what turns up before I extend this discussion any further...

One idea on startup noise...
Knowing the configuration of the Duratec DOHC V6, and making an assumption of the Intech DOHC V8,
I would assume that the startup noise is due to the DUAL Timing Chain Tensioners, not being pressurized.
Since the V8 is larger than the V6, maybe the noise is just more pronounced ?
The Duratec does suffer from this, and it was bad in the 95 - 96 models, and corrected somewhat after that.