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Juice
11-30-2011, 01:57 PM
I was heading back from lunch and a loud tapping noise suddenly started happening so I limped the car home. Turns out the bolts for the crank blower pulley backed out and was flopping around. The bad news is that one of them broke off. I don't know if it broke flush with the pulley, but either way I don't see this being easy.

I don't know why they backed out though. I tightened them myself, so it's not like they were forgotten about during the install. If I did something wrong putting them in, I couldn't tell you what it was. I'm pretty strict about following the instructions, so whatever that said is what I did.

Anyone know of a direct replacement for them?

fastblackmerc
11-30-2011, 01:58 PM
I was heading back from lunch and a loud tapping noise suddenly started happening so I limped the car home. Turns out the bolts for the crank blower pulley backed out and was flopping around. The bad news is that one of them broke off. I don't know if it broke flush with the pulley, but either way I don't see this being easy.

I don't know why they backed out though. I tightened them myself, so it's not like they were forgotten about during the install. If I did something wrong putting them in, I couldn't tell you what it was. I'm pretty strict about following the instructions, so whatever that said is what I did.

Anyone know of a direct replacement for them?

Ford dealer or ARP.

Juice
11-30-2011, 02:10 PM
Alright thanks. What causes them to back out like that? I might have done something stupid putting them in.

Mr. Man
11-30-2011, 02:12 PM
Man that sucks. Hope the fix turns out to be lickity split.

fastblackmerc
11-30-2011, 02:32 PM
Alright thanks. What causes them to back out like that? I might have done something stupid putting them in.

Did you use Locktite?

Where they torqued to the proper specs?

ctrlraven
11-30-2011, 03:11 PM
+1 on the Locktite.

Bradley G
11-30-2011, 03:40 PM
I think you are supposed to use the certain color loctite as well.
I forget which is which blue or red that is suggested for the piggyback crank pully.

fastblackmerc
11-30-2011, 03:53 PM
I think you are supposed to use the certain color loctite as well.
I forget which is which blue or red that is suggested for the piggyback crank pully.

RED = High Strength

BLUE = Medium Strength

I'd use RED.

Bradley G
11-30-2011, 03:56 PM
Me too, I remember having both on hand when I did mine.
RED = High Strength

BLUE = Medium Strength

I'd use RED.

DOOM
11-30-2011, 03:57 PM
Did you use Locktite?

Where they torqued to the proper specs?


+1 on the Locktite.

What they said!!!

99SVT
11-30-2011, 07:23 PM
Anyone know of a direct replacement for them?

The Trilogy instructions should have the length/ thread pitch of each particular bolt. You can pick up replacements from most industrial parts shops, make sure you get grade 8.8 or better.

+1 on using loctite, there's not a lot of thread engagement there for the length of the bolts.

ImpalaSlayer
11-30-2011, 07:28 PM
i went through hell with this on my eaton so i did the following.

used lock washer
used red lock tight
torqued them down to 45 ftlbs
and drilled the heads on them so i could use safety wire

that finally stopped them from backing out


oh and you wont find those bolts at the dealer, they are not oem.


pm me what lenght you need, i bought a whole bunch trying to fix this i prolly have some i can mail to you if you arnt in a rush.

TAKEDOWN
11-30-2011, 09:02 PM
Oh NO!!!!!!

Juice
11-30-2011, 09:20 PM
The instructions say 3M10x50mm socket hexagon head bolts. When I put them in again I'll make sure to use Loctite. I didn't the first time because it wasn't in the instruction to.

03sport007
12-01-2011, 12:53 AM
That sucks!!!!!!! Sorry I know thats the last thing you want to deal with.

fastblackmerc
12-01-2011, 05:12 AM
I'd contact Jerry and let him know what happened

Siege
12-01-2011, 10:13 AM
As a rule I use threadlocker on every bolt I touch on the drivetrain or suspension. Blue on everything unless it is a fastener on a rotating part (flywheel bolt, pressure plate,etc) or a critical bolt (something where if it came loose the engine would sustain damage) like the intercooler. Then I use standard or high temperature red.

71cyclone
12-03-2011, 05:13 PM
Blue = EZ remove Red = Hard remove

burt ragio
12-04-2011, 05:54 AM
In addition to Dave's advise see that the mating surfaces are free of any debries.

SamF
12-06-2011, 06:46 PM
I had one break on mine shortly after I installed the kit. Fairly easy to get out with a right angle drill, some patience and an ez out. Makes a terrible racket though doesnt it? I thought my blower was trashed at first...

Juice
12-11-2011, 04:29 PM
So the plot thickens. When I first looked at it I thought one of the bolts had backed out, causing one of the others to break off. After pulling the pulley off I discovered that none of the bolts had backed out and two of them had snapped off. So now I have to get two broken bolts out.

The big question is, what would cause two of them to snap off like that? I'd hate for this to happen again.

justbob
12-11-2011, 05:41 PM
Sounds like you should find a mechanic.

Juice
12-11-2011, 06:01 PM
Why? Do you think it might be something I did wrong?

justbob
12-11-2011, 06:11 PM
Why? Do you think it might be something I did wrong?

It didn't even last a day right? When we encounter small hicups such as this, we simply switch gears and try something different (Locktight, ARP bolts, get the torque wrench recalibrated, ECT) and move on. This is an easy fix, sounds like they were still loose or over tightened. This could have caused a lot of damage. Consider yourself lucky.

ShadyLurker
12-11-2011, 06:15 PM
Maybe the bolts were of poor quality. Drill them out and back them out with an easy out. Shouldn't be too hard since you didn't use any thread lock. If you can put bolts in and tighten them around the one thats sheared off you may be able to back the broken one out easier. Good luck to you.

Juice
12-11-2011, 07:45 PM
It didn't even last a day right? When we encounter small hicups such as this, we simply switch gears and try something different (Locktight, ARP bolts, get the torque wrench recalibrated, ECT) and move on. This is an easy fix, sounds like they were still loose or over tightened. This could have caused a lot of damage. Consider yourself lucky.


I'd rather learn and work on my own car. That's part of the reason I've kept the MM is so I can tool around on it.

Like I said previously, I followed the instructions as they were written. There were no specifics on torquing those bolts, so I cranked them down until the pulley turned a little bit. Not sure what else I could have done, bolting one thing to another thing seems like a pretty simple process.

Siege
12-12-2011, 06:02 AM
If you used the lockwashers and the correct bolts then you followed the directions in the manual correctly.

Call Jerry at Trilogy and talk to him about it.

SamF
12-12-2011, 07:10 PM
There isnt much threaded bolt left in there, and no load on it so it will turn easily, just drill a small hole (carefully) and back it out with a removal tool.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/645/medium/extraction.jpg

Juice
12-12-2011, 08:03 PM
After fiddling with the damn thing for a couple hours I gave up and called a mechanic. They towed it to their shop, and I only asked them to extract the bolts but they buttoned it all back up for me. The guy said the bolts I had in there were a lower grade (5) and it should have at least had 8. Anyway, it's done now, until I break something else haha.

03sport007
12-12-2011, 09:58 PM
I know it sucks to have issues so soon after finishing. Good luck…Hopefully you got all the bugs out

RacerX
12-13-2011, 06:01 AM
Grade 5? I guess everyone snapping up the remaining kits needs to check the bolts they're getting.

burt ragio
12-13-2011, 06:38 AM
All it takes is one mistake. Glad you got it worked out.