i want to be in the low 13s

[bigmerc281]

I want to be in the low 13s what do I need.
Currently ordering my
Steeda u/d pulleys
410s
tune haven't decided yet.

What else do I need
I already have a k&n cai

[gdsqdcr]

I am interested in this ...

I already have the 4.10's, Zach tune, K&N, UDP's ...

[justbob]

Nitrous.

This post is rated E for everyone.

[dohc324ci]

^^ or Vortech SC; not gonna get there NA without LT and your both in Cali..so thats not gonna happen with our smog Nazi's out here.

K&N CAI
Shorty Headers with full exhaust
Ported intake w/PHP intake spacer/Throttle body
Meziere water pump
UDP
4.10s/j-mod
Custom Dyno Tune w/Z 2.0 trans tune
Upper/Lower control arms
Drag radials

Maybe mid likely high 13s

[SC Cheesehead]

Mid to upper 13's are relatively easy with a tune and bolt ons. You want get lower, it's gonna start costing some bucks. Like Bajno Mathews used to say, "Speed costs money, kid. How fast you wanna go?"

As mentioned by others, mid to LT headers and 2 1/2" exhaust with high flow cats, a converter, prolly a line-lok and drag radials to help launch, and Cobra cams would be a benefit as well. PM 03mmmonroe, he's running 13.4s and can give you more info.

IMO, best bang for the buck if you want to start cranking low ETs is to go S/C.

[MercNasty]

where did yall get the Steeda U/D pullies from?

[fesifisky]

I'm also curious about this. And in tune, question... what are the drawbacks of UDPs, specifically if you already have 4.10s?

[slickster]

I'm also curious about this. And in tune, question... what are the drawbacks of UDPs, specifically if you already have 4.10s?

There are no drawbacks. 4.10 will take away 1mpg but the udp will gain that back. For some marauders a tuner is needed to bump the idle for the udp

[MrBluGruv]

I was a very rare case with UDPs, so far as I can tell, I had all sorts of belt length issues and they kept becoming noisy, chirpy pieces of crap. It could be any number of problems though, as like I said, haven't seen many people at all cite the same problems I had.

[DOOM]

Long tube headers & Full exhaust!

[Blackened300a]

I want to be in the low 13s what do I need.
Currently ordering my
Steeda u/d pulleys
410s
tune haven't decided yet.

What else do I need
I already have a k&n cai

Headers, a good dyno tune, race gas tune, smaller rear tires, every engine bolt-on you can get your hands on and run in ice cold temps.
Check my garage link in my sig for my mods. With a smaller rear tire, race gas tune, and some colder temps, I'm predicting I can run at least a 13.3 and break 100mph. I was hoping to try this until I got stuck with a tank of bad gas recently. :mad:


where did yall get the Steeda U/D pullies from?
Sparta Performance. You'll have them within days and his price is hard to beat.


I'm also curious about this. And in tune, question... what are the drawbacks of UDPs, specifically if you already have 4.10s?

None, the engine will spool up faster, and you'll pick up 8-10 rwhp. You'll just have to bump up the idle 200 RPM to compensate for the slower turning alternator. Also the crank bolt is a TTY bolt which means its a one time use bolt. For $15 I picked up a ARP crank bolt and I never had to worry about stretching or snapping it.

[vkirkend]

Mid to upper 13's are relatively easy with a tune and bolt ons. You want get lower, it's gonna start costing some bucks. Like Bajno Mathews used to say, "Speed costs money, kid. How fast you wanna go?"

As mentioned by others, mid to LT headers and 2 1/2" exhaust with high flow cats, a converter, prolly a line-lok and drag radials to help launch, and Cobra cams would be a benefit as well. PM 03mmmonroe, he's running 13.4s and can give you more info.

IMO, best bang for the buck if you want to start cranking low ETs is to go S/C.

I with Rex, for low 13's go the eaton swap route. in the end it will be the cheapest route.

[breeze]

Headers, a good dyno tune, race gas tune, smaller rear tires, every engine bolt-on you can get your hands on and run in ice cold temps.
Check my garage link in my sig for my mods. With a smaller rear tire, race gas tune, and some colder temps, I'm predicting I can run at least a 13.3 and break 100mph. I was hoping to try this until I got stuck with a tank of bad gas recently. :mad:

Dag, 13.3 with all your mods. I did 14.001 @99 with jlt, Zach tune, 4.10s and regular tires. If I put smaller tires on I'd do say 13.7s maybe.

[Pops]

Its not as easy as you guys think! Look at the time slip page and check the NA cars. Only two have gone faster than 13.51. Cruzetaker went 13.25 with a wild Lidio tune and 100 octane fuel. 03 monroe just went 13.4 at SSHS shootout last month. You can do a SC cheaper than beating you your wallet to death trying to stay NA! Look for the 12 second NA thread and do some reading. It is all in that thread!

[Bluerauder]

Its not as easy as you guys think! Look at the time slip page and check the NA cars. Only two have gone faster than 13.51. Cruzetaker went 13.25 with a wild Lidio tune and 100 octane fuel. 03 monroe just went 13.4 at SSHS shootout last month. You can do a SC cheaper than beating you your wallet to death trying to stay NA! Look for the 12 second NA thread and do some reading. It is all in that thread!

• “Cruztaker” sets N/A Marauder 1/4 mile record at 13.270 @ 103.21 (23 October 2004, Mason-Dixon Dragway, MD) & also gets Best Burnout trophy.

Temps were in the low 50s and Barry would ice down the intake with a 10 pound bag of ice after each run. As I recall, he pulled the driver headlight out as well. I gotta find that video somewhere.

[whitey]

Its not as easy as you guys think! Look at the time slip page and check the NA cars. Only two have gone faster than 13.51. Cruzetaker went 13.25 with a wild Lidio tune and 100 octane fuel. 03 monroe just went 13.4 at SSHS shootout last month. You can do a SC cheaper than beating you your wallet to death trying to stay NA! Look for the 12 second NA thread and do some reading. It is all in that thread!
+1, if i wanted to hit 13's, id go with a s/c...... wait, i do want to hit 13's...but i dont have the money either way:depress:

[Blackmobile]

People are overlooking that the best time you'll have with the MM is to be NA. Put a blower on it an let the head aches begin. Many members have broke into the 13's as per the time slip page. I got there with every bolt on in the book and then some. Don't forget the built Tranny, 3500 stall TC and HO fuel pump, and a few other tricks got me into the 13's.

[babbage]

+1, if i wanted to hit 13's, id go with a s/c...... wait, i do want to hit 13's...but i dont have the money either way:depress:

Ahh, then you do it bit by bit like I did. (no underdrives either)


People are overlooking that the best time you'll have with the MM is to be NA. Put a blower on it an let the head aches begin. Many members have broke into the 13's as per the time slip page. I got there with every bolt on in the book and then some. Don't forget the built Tranny, 3500 stall TC and HO fuel pump, and a few other tricks got me into the 13's.

Oh yeah, My MM is a handful - no *extra* belts to worry about. The longtube headers are a gift that keeps giving. I still get 22 Mpg at 80+ with a full car!

[sailsmen]

The difference between a cold day and a hot day is .75. IF you always want to run in the 13.s you need to get to 13.1.

[vkirkend]

People are overlooking that the best time you'll have with the MM is to be NA. Put a blower on it an let the head aches begin. Many members have broke into the 13's as per the time slip page. I got there with every bolt on in the book and then some. Don't forget the built Tranny, 3500 stall TC and HO fuel pump, and a few other tricks got me into the 13's.

I have to disagree. I own a N/A and SC'd Marauder and say the latter is the most fun to drive. And if you don't overdo it on the boost the motors and drivetrain will last a long time.

[na svt]

-4.30s-4.56s
-long tubes
-no cats
-96-01 cobra intake cams installed at a 106LC
-3200 stall
-Ported intake
-sticky tires
-March Cobra R alternator pully
-large diameter water pump pulley
-March 1158 SFI damper

I would make the converter the last mod because the cobra cams will increase tq to a point where it may not be needed.

4.10s aren't enough to get a heavy a** marauder in the low 13s. Also, the very mild intake cams and stock cam timing are terrible for n/a power.

For racing, steeper gears and less converter are much better than a higher stall and less gear. Also, as I stated previously 4.10s aren't enough gear especially when running a stock diameter tire. My Mach as 4.10s with 26" tires and it needs 4.30s or 4.56s to get the most out of it. Furthermore, the 4.10s are very "mild" on the street and hwy even with the 26" tires.

4.30s and MM tires are just like 4.10s and 26" tires.

Don't Fear the Gear!

[71cyclone]

LIFE is a JOURNEY ,Building a GOFAST Marauder is a Journey also ,I guess it is all in what you want . But I agree with cousin CHEESE HEAD THE S/C is the best bang for the buck and will give you the BIGGER woodie { LMAO }

[Blackened300a]

-March Cobra R alternator pully
-large diameter water pump pulley
-March 1158 SFI damper


Im not familiar with these over Steeda UD pulleys.

[na svt]

The march 1158 damper is a fluid damper and it's the only small diameter damper I use.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-1158/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-116/
March Performance 1172 - March Performance Aluminum Serpentine Water Pump Pulleys (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-1172/)

[TFB]

LIFE is a JOURNEY ,Building a GOFAST Marauder is a Journey also ,I guess it is all in what you want . But I agree with cousin CHEESE HEAD THE S/C is the best bang for the buck and will give you the BIGGER woodie { LMAO }
And if you're really lucky(like myself), you may find a Zack modified MM for basically the price of SC install and a few other mods...

[dohc324ci]

Register in Tuolumne County, California. No need to smog in that county. I am going to get a PO box In Sonora problem solved! Whipple 2.3 down the line probably look at SW LT and Accufab TB then retune to see how much rwhp that would put me NA.

[justbob]

People are overlooking that the best time you'll have with the MM is to be NA. Put a blower on it an let the head aches begin. Many members have broke into the 13's as per the time slip page. I got there with every bolt on in the book and then some. Don't forget the built Tranny, 3500 stall TC and HO fuel pump, and a few other tricks got me into the 13's.

I beg to differ. Four years N/A and I was ready to sell. I got my Trilogy three years ago and even turned up the wick on that. Not a single hick up here, 39,000 miles of smiles and even INCREASED my MPG by 2!! (but decreased by about 15 if I use it, oh and I ohhhh so do!):D

[Bradley G]

I have almost seven years and 86K on a Trilogy enhanced Marauder, 117,000 total miles on the car, so far the stupid unreliable junk has eaton a pulley bearing and I had to resplice the alternator charging wire. TWICE!


I beg to differ. Four years N/A and I was ready to sell. I got my Trilogy three years ago and even turned up the wick on that. Not a single hick up here, 39,000 miles of smiles and even INCREASED my MPG by 2!! (but decreased by about 15 if I use it, oh and I ohhhh so do!):D

[guspech750]

so far the stupid unreliable junk

:lol:!!!!!!!!!!!


---
- Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[Rkammer]

Well, I recently got the bug to make my MM a bit faster. It's got a tune, 4.10s, K&N, cold plugs, cold stat and runs 14.7s @ 95 now. So, I got to thinking about the cost of even getting into the high 13s.

cat back exhaust with X pipe - $1200 installed
Headers - $1000+ installed
Converter - $1000+ installed
Another dyno tune - $500?
Maybe drag radials - $400+

So, for about $4000 MAYBE I can into the high 13s. The more I thought about that the less attractive it sounded. Don't get me wrong. I love my Marauder. In fact, I just decided to keep it over the long haul as my daily driver and vacation car. It's the finest sedan I've ever owned.

But, to me, $4000, to gain less than a second in the 1/4 is not my idea of money well spent. If I want to satisfy the need for speed, I'll just park the MM and drive around in my Grand National for a couple of days. That old Buick runs high 11s on pump gas and it only took about $5000 to get there from a 14 second stocker.

Well, I've got my flame suit on so have at it fellas. :flamer:

[SC Cheesehead]

Well, I recently got the bug to make my MM a bit faster. It's got a tune, 4.10s, K&N, cold plugs, cold stat and runs 14.7s @ 95 now. So, I got to thinking about the cost of even getting into the high 13s.

cat back exhaust with X pipe - $1200 installed
Headers - $1000+ installed
Converter - $1000+ installed
Another dyno tune - $500?
Maybe drag radials - $400+

So, for about $4000 MAYBE I can into the high 13s. The more I thought about that the less attractive it sounded. Don't get me wrong. I love my Marauder. In fact, I just decided to keep it over the long haul as my daily driver and vacation car. It's the finest sedan I've ever owned.

But, to me, $4000, to gain less than a second in the 1/4 is not my idea of money well spent. If I want to satisfy the need for speed, I'll just park the MM and drive around in my Grand National for a couple of days. That old Buick runs high 11s on pump gas and it only took about $5000 to get there from a 14 second stocker.

Well, I've got my flame suit on so have at it fellas. :flamer:

No, you're right, big bucks to get a NA Marauder down into the mid to low 13's. 03mmmonroe's running 13.4 with his car, and he's been working at that for a couple years and has all the above-mentioned stuff, plus a couple other things to get there. I think he's got another 10th or so he can knock off, which is gonna be one fast NA Marauder.

[Blackened300a]

No, you're right, big bucks to get a NA Marauder down into the mid to low 13's. 03mmmonroe's running 13.4 with his car, and he's been working at that for a couple years and has all the above-mentioned stuff, plus a couple other things to get there. I think he's got another 10th or so he can knock off, which is gonna be one fast NA Marauder.

I hope to pull that off this year. Race gas, smaller rear tires, full exhaust, SRI repaired/installed, and possibly a gear swap later on.
Maybe a 13.2 or possibly on the 12 second bubble.

[na svt]

The GN and the MM are two very different cars; one has a great hp/wt ratio, the other doesn't.

4.10s are not enough gear for a MM (tall tires, heavy car). A retune will not cost $500, should be no more than $200. Why the cold plugs if it's n/a?

Cobra intake cams provide the biggest bang for the buck and will add more power than headers, cat back and X-pipe combined and cost 80% less.

I'd go with 4.30s, stock converter, cobra intake cams (106/116). The cams alone will provide 20rwhp, 30ft lbs at 3500 and two tenths in the quarter. The added tq will negate the need for a loose converter.

Can you do any of the installs yourself?

[SC Cheesehead]

I hope to pull that off this year. Race gas, smaller rear tires, full exhaust, SRI repaired/installed, and possibly a gear swap later on.
Maybe a 13.2 or possibly on the 12 second bubble.

Would love to see that, Paul. You and Russ need to get together and brainstorm, would love to see somebody take Glenn's money... ;)

[Fosters]

The GN and the MM are two very different cars; one has a great hp/wt ratio, the other doesn't.

4.10s are not enough gear for a MM (tall tires, heavy car). A retune will not cost $500, should be no more than $200. Why the cold plugs if it's n/a?

Cobra intake cams provide the biggest bang for the buck and will add more power than headers, cat back and X-pipe combined and cost 80% less.

I'd go with 4.30s, stock converter, cobra intake cams (106/116). The cams alone will provide 20rwhp, 30ft lbs at 3500 and two tenths in the quarter. The added tq will negate the need for a loose converter.

Can you do any of the installs yourself?

You're talking about 96-98 cobra intake cams? They do cost little, but the install is the nasty part.

[Rkammer]

You're talking about 96-98 cobra intake cams? They do cost little, but the install is the nasty part.

I also found that out when I called my favorite mechanic. Only about $200 for the cams but over $1000 for the install. Ouch!

[na svt]

You're talking about 96-98 cobra intake cams? They do cost little, but the install is the nasty part.

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

[CBT]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

:eek: Dayum! :beer:

[Blackened300a]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

Why couldn't you live closer?!

[Mike M]

I think my car went 14.1 with UD pulleys, a Reinhart chip (yes chip) and 4:10s.
Seems so long ago.....ah...much simpler times.

[slickster]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

What a guy :beer:

[Merrill]

For me the best route was to buy a car with all the work done, I know I know
half of the fun is doing the work, but when you can buy a car for half of what was in it that makes financial sense.
An intercooled, supercharged car with 69,000 miles with tons of other work, converter, J mod, 4.10's, 31 spline axles, widened wheels that has run in the high 12's for under 15 grand. Lot of fun for the money.
My opinion.

[jstevens]

one word, nitrous.

[LANDY]

one word, nitrous.

Best answer yet!

[Baconbit]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.


Todd I still have those cobra cams I bought off of you. I may have to take you up on that offer! I'll buy ya dinner or beer! or both if you would be willing to do that. I had considered selling them cams because I was thinking i was gonna be unable to install them.

[justbob]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.


That's a very generous offer!





one word, nitrous.


See post 3 :)





Best answer yet!

See quote 2 :beer:

[na svt]

Lets have a cam install get-together; food, beer, and car work.

[CBT]

Lets have a cam install get-together; food, beer, and car work.

There are rare occasions I regret living in Virginia. This would be one of those times. :(

[justbob]

Lets have a cam install get-together; food, beer, and car work.

Look forward to it! Thanks for your help on cam choices Todd, however I did not know uncle sam was gonna hold my sack of two in his hands so tight this year... $7,400 to be precise... Now I have most of what I need to do my swap minus hardware, gaskets, posi port, and cams. Since this is just a toy, I guess I will leave her be for a little while longer as she is more than a blast to drive and in perfect shape anywho. More power, later date.

I'll probably be bothering you more in the months to come Bud. :beer:

[J.bo]

Can you put together a how to video so we can see step by step of the install and degreeing of cams for our motors.


Lets have a cam install get-together; food, beer, and car work.

[dohc324ci]

Todd next time you fly out to Cali I have some projects in the Marauder Portfolio you can help tackle. Costco is very close to my house;)

[na svt]

Todd next time you fly out to Cali I have some projects in the Marauder Portfolio you can help tackle. Costco is very close to my house;)

Good ole Costco, I spent a lotta money there when I lived out there.

[Fosters]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

Damn, I missed this... I'm gonna make you eat those words, I have 2 cars... (heck, I just wanna learn how to do it on the first one and then I'll handle the second) :D

[tbone]

Anyone know the best place to get these? Adding them to my list.......:rolleyes:

[Fosters]

I'll tell you after I buy a set or two... :o

j/k, SVTperformance is usually the place to buy anything cobra/4v.

[Mest30]

It's a 4 hour job and I've done many. Drive it here and I'll do it for free.

That offer open to anyone? May put cams down for a fathers day present. Dayton can't be that far from Chicago.

[MMG1989]

so what do the pulleys actually do im intrested! I have an SCT Tuner with an K&N CAI and some Ford 3.73 Gears and I like the difference with the performance but i know there are plenty of more things i can change to get some more out of my car.

[MMG1989]

What do the pulleys actually do? i have an sct tuner k&n cai and ford 3.73 gears but i kno there are plenty more things to do to our MM to get more out of it

[Blackened300a]

so what do the pulleys actually do im intrested! I have an SCT Tuner with an K&N CAI and some Ford 3.73 Gears and I like the difference with the performance but i know there are plenty of more things i can change to get some more out of my car.


Pulleys free up to 10hp, the CAI helps, the 3.73's are a waste of money. Stock ratio is 3.55, the slight bump to 3.73 did nothing but drain your wallet of install costs and parts. 4.10's are the way to go and if you have some cash laying around, a 3K or 3500 stall convertor will really make a big difference.

[na svt]

A small diameter damper slows the RPM at which all the accessories turn which takes less hp. Larger diameter pulleys on the accessories (water pump, alternator) reduce the RPM at which they rotate even further.

4.10s aren't nearly enough gear for a heavy car with tall tires like a marauder. 4.30s are the absolute minimum if you want your car to be respectable. As for the converter, a 3200-3600 is optimum.

[Smalldogg/03mm]

Now NA SVT, how will a car drive on a day to day bases with 4:30? Was reading and about to do all the thing u guys recommend.. But I'm wondering how the 4:30 will ride day to day..

[na svt]

Now NA SVT, how will a car drive on a day to day bases with 4:30? Was reading and about to do all the thing u guys recommend.. But I'm wondering how the 4:30 will ride day to day..
4.30s in a Marauder result in the same final gear ratio as 4.10s in a Mustang. The taller tire of the Marauder kills the final gear ratio which is why the 4.30s are needed...There's a reason that no 4.10 geared, n/a marauder has gone 12s in the quarter mile.

In a DD they are great, the MPG won't suffer and driveability will increase.

[fastblackmerc]

Now NA SVT, how will a car drive on a day to day bases with 4:30? Was reading and about to do all the thing u guys recommend.. But I'm wondering how the 4:30 will ride day to day..

Personally I wouldn't put 4.30's in a daily driver. There are many who have done this and have regretted it and replaced the 4.30's with 4.10's. You will lose at least 4 - 5mpg, your top end speed will be reduced and you have a better chance of the transmission tailshaft / driveshaft failing because the driveshaft will reach it's critical speed sooner.

IMHO.... 4.10's are a better choice for a DD. In fact the Marauder was supposed to come with 4.10's until the bean counters needed an extra 1 - 2mpg. With 4.10's you will lose 1 -2 mpg and you RPMs at speed will increase by about 200. You'll also need a "tune" to account for the change in gears.

[Blackened300a]

I like to take the car out for a long drive now and then, I think I'll stick with the 4.10's. With my exhaust setup, another 150-200 RPM's will make it drone even more at highway speeds.

[Smalldogg/03mm]

Understood!!! U guys no ur stuff ...

[na svt]

My mustang with 4.10s gets over 20mpg (auto trans). A marauder with 4.30s will cruise at the same rpm as my car.

Do a search on 4.30s, a member here has them and posted how much he likes them.

[MMG1989]

Yea I agree with you'll there isnt a change at all from the Stock to 3.73s because I thought there would be a difference in my 1/8 time and there wasnt i just noticed a difference in my hole shot a little bit but hey I know for a fact im going to 4.10s because I see so many of you guys on here are flattered with your 4.10s.

[na svt]

...but hey I know for a fact im going to 4.10s because I see so many of you guys on here are flattered with your 4.10s.

...and they are still in the 13s.

[na svt]

Take a look at this hread:
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77026&highlight=4.30+gears

[jwibbity]

where can i get 4.30's, and is the new design better than the original??

[breeze]

What would the gear ratio be with 4.10s on 235s. I use that size for winter, really no difference jus a lot easier to break loose.

[LANDY]

What would the gear ratio be with 4.10s on 235s. I use that size for winter, really no difference jus a lot easier to break loose.about 4.56 gears

[LOWBUCKMM]

Nitrous with a dyno tune is the best bang for your buck. I know for a fact.

[ctrlraven]

What would the gear ratio be with 4.10s on 235s. I use that size for winter, really no difference jus a lot easier to break loose.


about 4.56 gears
4.10s with a 235/50-18 tires is not an effective 4.56 gear. lol

245 dia ÷ 235 dia
(28.6 ÷ 27.3) = 1.047
1.047 x 4.10 = 4.2927 effective rear gear ratio with 4.10s and a 235/50-18 tire


I run 265/50-18 street tire which is 28.4", my 255/50-16 drag radial is 26.0"
28.4 ÷ 26.0 = 1.09
1.09 x 4.10 = 4.469 or 4.47

[Smalldogg/03mm]

Nitrous with a dyno tune is the best bang for your buck. I know for a fact.

What's the pros and cons about Nos.. Don't hear a lot of us here doing that..


Antoine

[LOWBUCKMM]

What's the pros and cons about Nos.. Don't hear a lot of us here doing that..


Antoine
I use a 100shot with a bottle heater and purge. Had it dyno tuned it got 368hp I think. Hits hard out of the hole. See my signature for 1/4 mile times. I only have used it on the track. Has been a couple times I have sprayed on the street.
Pros
cheap power
If you don't want to use it shut it off
It's safe in low doses (after a dyno tune).
It makes a cool PSSST sound with the purge valve :)

Cons
You run out of bottle your done
You can blow up the motor if your not carful or if your to care free
(do your research on how big of jets to use)
It's not always under your right foot like a super charger or even better a turbo
You can find good used kits for under $800 with two bottles, heater and purge.
Any other questions just pm me ill answer them all if I can.

[MMG1989]

I want to go with some NOS so bad but i cannot afford to burn my motor up at all because I drive my car everyday but I only want to use it at the track but im thinking of getting a 100 shot I want it sooooo bad

[justbob]

Let me say this again.... NA SVT is spot on and I LOVE my 4.30's! Highway RPM at 76 is 2750 and I get 20 MPG.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77026

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[BlackJack]

N20 might be an option but in my experience with an '06 Mustang GT adding headers,high flow cats, CAI, tune, Detroit Rocker cams, & 3:73's in hindsight I should have done what Lidio did to his Mustangs. Just put a big honkin' Whipple kit on it, leave everything else basically stock, run quick times and keep some streetability to it. If I mod the MM, it will be done that way. For me, the loud, hard shiftin', scary on rain car got a little old even as a weekend car. If that's what you want, have fun! Of course you have leeway in the tune, but dyno time costs $$$.

[Fosters]

Let me say this again.... NA SVT is spot on and I LOVE my 4.30's! Highway RPM at 76 is 2750 and I get 20 MPG.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77026

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nasvt is bang on with the gears.

I have 4.30s in the mach1, with a 26" (well, 25.6") tire, and it's bang on for this motor on the street. If I had cobra cams, I'd want 4.56s, to get the absolute most out of it in the 1/4.

The MM will likely get 4.30s though despite the bigger tires, because I will be using the mustang's 26" tires at the track. I could probably get away with more gear, as it's far away from running out of gear at the other end of the track in NA form; but it does have a dry nitrous kit on it, which I might start using at some point...

With regards to the underdrive pulleys, I've had those on my 96gt; didn't make a whole lot of difference, but then again nothing did on that car. The main difference I've noticed was that the alternator was getting overloaded at idle or close to idle, as the headlights were dimming with the stereo on. On the mach1 I went with an electric water pump instead; the water pump basically is an electric motor with a freewheeling pulley as a result. The end result is, same 10-12hp gain across the band, better cooling in stop and go traffic (electric wp flows constant rate, not like the belt driven one), but it did cost 350 bucks for the pump and ~35 for the wiring kit/relay. I will probably do that on the MM as well instead of the UDPs.