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Mr. Man
12-25-2011, 12:33 PM
Ms. D's SB is coming up on a cooling system cleaning and I seem to remember a while back someone posted up about a thermostat that stayed open when it died. Can't remember the name. Anybody?

Also besides new fluid, I think I'm going to spring for new hoses is there anything else I should be thinking about for this operation? Heard about something called "water wetter from RP is this compatible and more importantly is it worth the added expense?

If it matters Ms.D's car is N/A, has a CAI and a tune.:)

fastblackmerc
12-25-2011, 12:55 PM
Ms. D's SB is coming up on a cooling system cleaning and I seem to remember a while back someone posted up about a thermostat that stayed open when it died. Can't remember the name. Anybody?

Also besides new fluid, I think I'm going to spring for new hoses is there anything else I should be thinking about for this operation? Heard about something called "water wetter from RP is this compatible and more importantly is it worth the added expense?

If it matters Ms.D's car is N/A, has a CAI and a tune.:)

Water wetter can't hurt

The best thermostat is made by Reisch Performance. Pricey but the best

Mr. Man
12-25-2011, 01:50 PM
Water wetter can't hurt

The best thermostat is made by Reisch Performance. Pricey but the best
That's the name I was thinking of. Thanks Jim.:)

Says it's a 170*. Will that be OK to use in a N/A car? I think the OEM is a 185*. I know it will work but will the MM's computer think there is a problem because the car doesn't reach optimal operating temperature?
Will eventually be getting Paula her own SCT and I believe there may be a prompt to adjust the temp setting but I haven't fully looked into that yet. I got an SCT for Christmas so I have some reading to do but throwing it out to the masses works too.:)

Blackened300a
12-25-2011, 02:29 PM
That's the name I was thinking of. Thanks Jim.:)

Says it's a 170*. Will that be OK to use in a N/A car? I think the OEM is a 185*. I know it will work but will the MM's computer think there is a problem because the car doesn't reach optimal operating temperature?
Will eventually be getting Paula her own SCT and I believe there may be a prompt to adjust the temp setting but I haven't fully looked into that yet. I got an SCT for Christmas so I have some reading to do but throwing it out to the masses works too.:)

SInce your running a tune, its beeter to run at least a 180* stat.
170* is the temp that the stat starts to open so your operating temp will be closer to 180* anyways so you won't hurt anything in the least. You probably wouldn't notice anything on the factory gauge either. OEM stat is a 192*. SCT has the feature that you can adjust the temp that the fan comes on, but most tuners leave this unchanged since it don't make a world of difference in performance to have it come on sooner.
I been running a 180* and a EMP waterpump for years now and I'll likely go to a 170* when I flush out my coolant next.

fastblackmerc
12-25-2011, 02:41 PM
That's the name I was thinking of. Thanks Jim.:)

Says it's a 170*. Will that be OK to use in a N/A car? I think the OEM is a 185*. I know it will work but will the MM's computer think there is a problem because the car doesn't reach optimal operating temperature?
Will eventually be getting Paula her own SCT and I believe there may be a prompt to adjust the temp setting but I haven't fully looked into that yet. I got an SCT for Christmas so I have some reading to do but throwing it out to the masses works too.:)

Factory stat is 195. Most switch to a 180. The computer won't throw a code. Whomever supplies the tune can set it for a 180 stat. Unless you buy the expensive software I don't think that is a user adjustable parameter. I'd get colder spark plugs to compliment the colder stat. I use NGK TR6 plugs. Colder sts and plugs will allow more timimg. More timing = more power the

napolitano
12-25-2011, 02:51 PM
I also have a 180 stat and run water wetter. 7030 fir the amount of coolant and water wetter. My question is do you guys think having the 170 the stat will stay open all the tine and cause any premature damages?

finster101
12-25-2011, 02:55 PM
The 170 Reisch stat is good. Don't waste money on the water wetter. Antifreeze/Coolant is a water wetter. (slippery with a film) Most of the water wetter products want to be mixed only with water, not the antifreeze/water mix that you need to run in the MM.

RF Overlord
12-25-2011, 03:15 PM
The factory 'stat is actually 188°.

Eric, there is also one called "Fail-Safe" (http://www.motoradusa.com/products/failsafethermo/index.html) by MotoRad. They are designed to fail in the open position. I have one in my work truck...

LANDY
12-25-2011, 06:25 PM
I also have a 180 stat and run water wetter. 7030 fir the amount of coolant and water wetter. My question is do you guys think having the 170 the stat will stay open all the tine and cause any premature damages?
You have a 170* t-stat. It won't cause any premature damage just let the engine warm up before wot. That applies to any combo.

Mr. Man
12-25-2011, 10:04 PM
Can the SCT change timing or would that be more of a dyno adjustment? If it can can I do that or would Lido need to alter his program?

So as I read what you guys posted so far, the 170* will work OK in an N/A car, no codes, just let Lido know and he can make the change in the tuner program.

Will it take longer to get heat to the vents in the Winter as the 170* is opening earlier than the OEM? Not that we drive it much in the cold.:)

Chevyguy
12-26-2011, 06:38 AM
Lidio said to keep the stock Thermostat when I talked to him and it's on his site too


At this time we are not recommending colder plugs nor cooler thermostats as we’ve found the detonation threshold to be the same between 185 - 210 degree F engine temps.

As for hoses... Heck my frikin 96 has most of the originals even after the engine swap inspected them and were still fine. Well they were OEM Motorcraft types with stock clamps but may have been swapped at SOME point...