HID's Unreliable?

[capt512]

Afternoon Everyone,

About 2 months ago I purchased a DDM Tuning 35W Slim Ballast 5K HID kit for my MM. I installed both the 9007 Headlight kit, and H1 foglight kit. After installation I really had no issues. Everything was mounted securely and away from water, tested everything to work as it should, etc.

As a christmas gift I purchased the same kit for my father's CV and installed it about a week ago. Since the initial install of it I had an issue where sometimes I had to switch the headlights on, then back off, then back on at startup to get both bulbs to light...and it seemed more pronounced when cold out...as when installed in the garage no problem...but after sitting outside, only 1 would light at first. However it wasn't that big a deal yet and figured maybe it would get better?

Then last night I get a call that my father said one of the lights wouldn't come on, the high beams wouldn't activate (Hi/Lo kit like on my MM), and he tried switching on and off to no avail. It was about 25-30 degrees last night. So this morning I go take a look at them (its 45 degrees) and both work as they should, immediatly light up, high beams work, etc....

So then I turn mine on (usually kept on Auto lamp, so had to turn to On) and notice one of my bulbs all of the sudden is not igniting...car is running, I turn the switch on and off, flash high beams, etc but one side (passenger) won't light at all.... Let the car run for a while try it again nothing... I know mine worked last night even in the cold as I drove home at 3AM...

I am half tempted to throw everything back to stock in both vehicles as I can't have unreliable headlights as I drive at night 90% of my driving. Are these kits really just this unreliable? I got them even seeing the low price as soo many on here had recommended them with no problems however I sure seem to be having them....

Are any HID kits reliable? I know more than a few said they bought the high end kits and they blew out too at a year in (given these are 2 months - 2 weeks in)...

Anybody else experienced this, suggestions?

Bolded certain parts of post to make it easier to find questions, problems, etc

[ctrlraven]

What side did you use for the remote turn on (blue plug connection)?

Are you sure all connections are tight and secure?

When things like this happen I usually suggest switching the ballast with the other side and see if the problem follows. If it does then it's the ballast, if it doesn't then it's a wiring issue.

[OneBADLsE]

I had a similar problem with their kits. You can't use the autolamp to turn on the lights at night. The lack of power running to the ballasts during startup causes them to shut off thinking its a power surge.

Once a week even without using manual on, one light would stay off when I turned them on. A quick "on-off" cured it every single time. For the price of the kit, I didn't complain

[ctrlraven]

Especially when cranking the engine over and the lights are on, it will wear on the ballast because the initial draw from the ballast is a lot and when you go to start the car just about all the power is being used up by the starter.

Don't use the AUTO feature for some time and see if that makes any difference. I know when I have put my lights on auto, one light always goes out but comes back on. Manually turning them on, no problems.

[DOOM]

I've seen a few cars at start up with HID's only have one light come on before the other one lit up. I figured that was "NORMAL" . So is it or isn't it??? :confused:

[LJ on 24's]

I had the same problems untill I hooked up relays they both come on instantly on auto or manually.

[BirchMarauder]

I had the same problems untill I hooked up relays they both come on instantly on auto or manually.

YES YES YES! wiring harness with relays is the best way to go. you draw all your power from the battery not the oem light socket.

[burt ragio]

Well Capt512 you must have received the POS kit I returned. I tried to trouble shoot the kit with their help & members help with no aval. I am now looking into HID Bi xenon projectors.

[fastblackmerc]

Your lucky to get the kit to work at all. I had nothing right out of the box. Still have the kit... no response from DDM after repeated emails.

I have a non-DDM Tuning kit on my Marauder - 4 bulbs / 4 ballasts. Have had NO problems for 3 or 4 years. When I remote start the car with the headlights in "auto" both lights come on..... all the time - everytime!

[burt ragio]

This was one of my responses:
It may be useful to perform a direct battery test to determine if the problem with your HID kit has to do with a component(s) of the HID kit or with the interface of the HID kit with the stock wiring/electrical system of your vehicle.

To do a direct battery test, the leads/pins that are connected to the stock wiring will instead be touched to the power and ground terminals of a live battery. You can mimic several on-off cycles by simply touching/removing one of the leads. Do the HIDs perform as they were when connected to the vehicle? If so, then the problem is with the HID kit. If the HID kit works fine during the direct battery test, then the problem with the HID has to do with its compatibility with the vehicle. Depending on the particulars, the solution may be to purchase a wiring harness, to check for loose connections, to purchase error code eliminators. If these solutions don't seem appropriate, we'll be glad to advise.

For 9004 H/L, 9007 H/L and H4 H/L bulbs, the direct battery test can be done after the pins are removed from shell connector that is on the harness. Please leave the harness connected to the battery and grounded as originally wired. Please note the position of the wires--color assignments--before removing them from the plastic shell connector.

To remove the pins from the shell connector, you'll need to insert a small screwdriver (jeweler's screw driver, etc) or a pick/awl at the base of the pin on the side of the plug where the pins are protruding. There's a barb that is flared away from the pin that keeps the pin from sliding out of the shell connector. Using the tool, push up on the pin to flatten the barb and at the same time, give a firm tug on the wire from the back of the plug. The wire with the pin will slide out.

After doing the direct battery test, to re-insert the pins, please gently and carefully flare the barb up a little bit so that it will catch as it's supposed to upon re-inserting the pin into the plug.

Unfortunately, H13 H/L bulbs and their harness plug are not amenable to the direct battery test by removing the pins from the shell connector. The only way to perform a direct battery test would be to attach leads to the pins and touch those to the battery terminals.
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[capt512]

I used the passenger side remote turn on for the CV, and drivers side for the MM. The MM appears to have something loose on it as I was able to wiggle around in there and it come and go...I have a feeling its that oh so high quality blue connector.

The CV is working back like it was now for some unknown reason however every time I turn the lights on after it sits for say 10 minutes I have to turn the lights on and then off. It is a CVPI and doesn't have autolamp so I am turning the lights on manually with it. I got the slim kit which to my knowledge and according to the site comes with a fused relay harness so its not just the bulbs, its the full kit.

LJon24s doesn't the DDM kit already have this...or are you talking of something else...if so I am interested in more info on what you did exactly.

fastblackmerc - what brand of kit did you get and from where? I am considering doing projector conversions in one or both just am not sure yet...

burt - I saw that on thier website hasn't told me a whole lot though as its hard to recreate at time.

[fastblackmerc]

I used the passenger side remote turn on for the CV, and drivers side for the MM. The MM appears to have something loose on it as I was able to wiggle around in there and it come and go...I have a feeling its that oh so high quality blue connector.

The CV is working back like it was now for some unknown reason however every time I turn the lights on after it sits for say 10 minutes I have to turn the lights on and then off. It is a CVPI and doesn't have autolamp so I am turning the lights on manually with it. I got the slim kit which to my knowledge and according to the site comes with a fused relay harness so its not just the bulbs, its the full kit.

LJon24s doesn't the DDM kit already have this...or are you talking of something else...if so I am interested in more info on what you did exactly.

fastblackmerc - what brand of kit did you get and from where? I am considering doing projector conversions in one or both just am not sure yet...

burt - I saw that on thier website hasn't told me a whole lot though as its hard to recreate at time.

Q -
fastblackmerc - what brand of kit did you get and from where? I am considering doing projector conversions in one or both just am not sure yet

A - I get mine from a supplier on eBay I developed a good relationship with.

[ctrlraven]

I used the passenger side remote turn on for the CV, and drivers side for the MM. The MM appears to have something loose on it as I was able to wiggle around in there and it come and go...I have a feeling its that oh so high quality blue connector.

The CV is working back like it was now for some unknown reason however every time I turn the lights on after it sits for say 10 minutes I have to turn the lights on and then off. It is a CVPI and doesn't have autolamp so I am turning the lights on manually with it. I got the slim kit which to my knowledge and according to the site comes with a fused relay harness so its not just the bulbs, its the full kit.

LJon24s doesn't the DDM kit already have this...or are you talking of something else...if so I am interested in more info on what you did exactly.

fastblackmerc - what brand of kit did you get and from where? I am considering doing projector conversions in one or both just am not sure yet...

burt - I saw that on thier website hasn't told me a whole lot though as its hard to recreate at time.
DDMtuning's hi/lo kit comes with the relay wiring harness that should be hooked up to the battery and I would use the passenger side as the remote turn-on.

[capt512]

I attempted to use the passenger side first, but couldn't ever get both lights to come on that way...so I changed it to drivers side...maybe I'll try changing it back...

[ctrlraven]

I attempted to use the passenger side first, but couldn't ever get both lights to come on that way...so I changed it to drivers side...maybe I'll try changing it back...
You must of hooked something up wrong then.

Did you check out my install thread?
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=53542

[capt512]

Yep I looked at your thread. The newer kits don't even look the same, but I have it wired the same. Ground screws are good, main hot goes to distribution block hookup, etc. The kit that I just got for my CV (which is the exact same one as the marauder etc) didn't even come with the blue connector connected, and the wiring colors were blue, green, and brown...wtf. I wonder if those could be in the wrong spots causing something? There were no instructions on what those colors should mate up to on the oem colors.

[fastblackmerc]

Yep I looked at your thread. The newer kits don't even look the same, but I have it wired the same. Ground screws are good, main hot goes to distribution block hookup, etc. The kit that I just got for my CV (which is the exact same one as the marauder etc) didn't even come with the blue connector connected, and the wiring colors were blue, green, and brown...wtf. I wonder if those could be in the wrong spots causing something? There were no instructions on what those colors should mate up to on the oem colors.

Ahhhh.... The mystery of the aftermarket HID kit wiring.

The brown is the ground. That goes in the center of the blue socket.

The blue and green are for Lo & Hi beams. If the Hi beams don't operate correctly, switch the blue & green wires in the blue socket.

[ctrlraven]

Ahhhh.... The mystery of the aftermarket HID kit wiring.

The brown is the ground. That goes in the center of the blue socket.

The blue and green are for Lo & Hi beams. If the Hi beams don't operate correctly, switch the blue & green wires in the blue socket.
Yep. Some companies ship their kits with the pins already in, others they leave out. When I got my first DDMtuning kit, it had the wires already in but the high and low wires were in the wrong pin slot, switched them around and then it worked just fine.

[capt512]

Well thats what I thought the colors were, and how I put them in, so thats not a problem.

[burt ragio]

The brown is ground located center pin and all connections are good including ground. My guess is the ballast are drawing to much amps at start up preventing start up. What does DDM Tunning claim their ballast draw at start up ?

[ctrlraven]

The brown is ground located center pin and all connections are good including ground. My guess is the ballast are drawing to much amps at start up preventing start up. What does DDM Tunning claim their ballast draw at start up ?
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a164/ctrlraven/marauder/DSCF25991024x768.jpg

[burt ragio]

A good quality ballast uses LESS amperage than a standard 55/60 watt halogen bulb. Startup amperage is generally spiked at around 9-10 amps for less than a fraction of a second & once the arc is stabilized it uses around 3-4 amps @ 35watts. Your average halogen bulb uses nearly 6-7 amps @ 55/60 watts ALL the time. Less amperage means less strain on your alternator and electrical system.
The best way to check amp draw is with a meter. You would think the relays would solve any start up issue.