Help!!! I lost my heat!!!

[ultravorx]

Hey guys, tonight i installed my pioneer dvd stereo. i wanted to do it the way Roush Installed Navigation System was done by relocating the ac/heat controls. but when i started my car, i had no heat, just cold air. i did have to extend the ac/heat wiring harness. could it be there is a resistance in the wires, thus making it not work cause the wires were extended? or could i just have a bad ac control? i dont want to go buy one if it may be a wiring issue. i tripple checked the wiring, so i know it was extended properly. if anyone has ANY info please let me know.
Frank

[carfixer]

Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and rechecking.

[ultravorx]

Try disconnecting the battery for 5 minutes and rechecking.
I tried that with no luck. It just blows out semi cool air. but i can feel the heater core is hot, so i know it want to blow hot air. either the heater control must be bad, or there is the resistance in the wiring. if anyone has a schematic for this wiring, please let me know what all the wire colors are. it would help me greatly.
Frank

[LincMercLover]

Well... if it worked before... I'd double check everything. It may not be wiring, but vacuum? I dunno... I kinda always wanted to try to put climate control in a Mustang, but I've never looked into it.

[Dr Caleb]

You could have a problem with the blend door motor. . .

It changes the position of the air distribution door in the heater case.

You can self test the climate control system by pushing the "off" and "floor" buttons simultaneously and then push the "auto" button. When the self test is finished a code will appear on the climate control display if there is a problem. If it tests OK the display will illumunate all segments.

Turn off to exit self-test.

If you get a code, record it and return to dealer.

[jgc61sr2002]

Thanks Dr. You learn something new every day. Wow this site rocks. :bounce:

[David JP]

Thanks Dr. You learn something new every day. Wow this site rocks. :bounce:
I'm hip. These guys have saved me a lot of time and money with their advice.

[ultravorx]

well, i got my heat wworking thanks to the info from carfixer (thanks for your help!). it seems i had a bad crimp on the wires i extended. a bad crimp on the blend door motor wire. so i basically ripped out ever crimp and soldered and taped all my connections. i never knew you could have a bad crimp! So when making your connection in your cars, make sure to solder and tape. crimps are evil and should never be used.
Frank

[SHERIFF]

In just a few more months, you won't need any heat.

just kidding..... :)

Rather than start a new subject......does anybody know what keeps the air conditioning compressor, lines, hoses and O-rings lubricated and from leaking in the winter when the A/C is not used? Since all the tree huggers and government got involved with R-12 freon, automotive A/C and such, it's mighty expensive to service A/C if you can prevent having to so by doing something simple in the winter to keep everything lubricated.

[GarageMahal]

Rather than start a new subject......does anybody know what keeps the air conditioning compressor, lines, hoses and O-rings lubricated and from leaking in the winter when the A/C is not used? Since all the tree huggers and government got involved with R-12 freon, automotive A/C and such, it's mighty expensive to service A/C if you can prevent having to so by doing something simple in the winter to keep everything lubricated.
As I understand it, the A/C still runs in the winter to take the moisture out of the interior air. I know it did on all my past Crown Vics. The only time it does not run is when it set to vent/economy (I don't remember what we call it since I never user it)

jta

[jgc61sr2002]

Every time you go to the defroster mode your A/C compressor comes on.

[jettle]

You relocated the controls??? Where? Do you have any pictures????

Thanks,
Jeff

[ultravorx]

You relocated the controls??? Where? Do you have any pictures????

Thanks,
Jeff
I'll post some pics up tonight. Im VERY happy with the install. i'll explain that whole thing in a new post.
Frank

[jaywish]

Hi All,

This is back to the issue of crimps vs solder etc.

Well the NYSB (I hope I got to initials right) That's the standards board for Boating requires that only crimps be used. Solder connections can fail over time because of the movement of the wires and the inflexability of the solder.

I'm sure you all know that boating is a harsh and demanding enviornment. I add a dash of Dielectric to each crimp.

The final secret here is that you really need to invest in a proper crimping tool, not those flat combo stripper, bolt cutter, crimpers that are very common, but a real crimper. They look like side cutters but with the crimping dies incorporated. Then they work great.

Jay

[Smokie]

Part of my job is to do crimp connections that carry up to 50 amps at 240vac. With the proper tool and correct size connector these connections work very well, having said that it is fairly easy to screw one up and think it is ok. I always pull hard at both ends of the connection, it will not come loose after a hard pull if done properly.

[ap2003]

You would be surprised how many crimps are shipped with the car. Almost every wire in the harness is crimped (then maybe overmolded)... The trick is the tooling to do these crimps is on $1000+ machines... That being said, there are $100 hand tools for crimps that are also fairly good.... I would never trust those crimp tools from "insert electronic hobby store or hardware store name here".

Goto:
http://www.molex.com
Introduction to crimps
What is a good crimp

Crimp Tools...
Go to the bottom-left side of the page, select "Application Tooling"

All you ever wanted to know about crimps... and crimp tools. Oh yea... crimp tools are connector size specific...

ap