The Big 3 Upgrade

[bigdhasmoney]

Today i worked on upgrading my main electrical cables for my system that I'm in the process of building!
The Big 3:

0 gauge wire from the alternator to the positive side of battery.

0 gauge from battery ground to chassis.

0 gauge from battery ground to engine block.

All the terminals were soldered on by yours truly.
And i was going to go for the stock look by covering the wire with black conduit, but i like my blue wire lol :D
I do need to buy some digital battery terminals in the future

Here is the install:
One of the wires was my old alternator wire and i never noticed this before but the previous owner added 2 smaller gauge wires in between a bigger gauge because the wire was to short. Had it all rigged up.
Hope the pics work!

[bolsen]

What is the point of this mod?

[jwibbity]

for him hes building a system(1st post) so its probably going to draw alot of amps, larger gauge wire equal more amperage........:banana2:

[bigdhasmoney]

^^ correct

[Comin' in Hot]

Those two smaller wires are factory, but I don't know why.

[bigdhasmoney]

Thats stupid

[MyBlackBeasts]

Those two smaller wires are factory, but I don't know why.

Depending on where the cable runs, it might be fusable links. If they are, make sure you at least install an inline fuse in place of them.

[Seneca]

Depending on where the cable runs, it might be fusable links. If they are, make sure you at least install an inline fuse in place of them.
Agree Just did a engine swap 03 powerstroke 7.3L had the same two wires.. I didnt lookinto it but i'm betting you may be right.

[RacerX]

Yes, those are the fuseable links. You can install a fuse in between. This is what I have with a 200amp fuse:

http://www.loseyourhearing.com/media/09/a20792a12a484ed916389f_m.JPG

[bigdhasmoney]

I never would have known. I thought it was just jerry rigged to work, but that explains why there was no fuse there.

[MOTOWN]

Im in the process of the big 3 upgrade as well im going with red 0 gauge wire and kicker battery terminals

[Comin' in Hot]

I never would have known. I thought it was just jerry rigged to work, but that explains why there was no fuse there.

I only know because I cut them out of my car and now regret it.

[Marauderjack]

Yes, those are the fuseable links. You can install a fuse in between. This is what I have with a 200amp fuse:

http://www.loseyourhearing.com/media/09/a20792a12a484ed916389f_m.JPG

I likey this......where'd ya get it??:confused:

[fastblackmerc]

Those two smaller wires are factory, but I don't know why.
They are fusible links.


Thats stupid
Not stupid....... it's to protect your car and it's electrical system.


Depending on where the cable runs, it might be fusable links. If they are, make sure you at least install an inline fuse in place of them.
I'd only replace them with fusible links.


I only know because I cut them out of my car and now regret it.
Watch out... you could have a nice engine fire.


"An electrical fusible link is a type of electrical fuse that is constructed simply with a short piece of wire typically four American wire gauge sizes smaller than the wire that is being protected. For example, an AWG 16 fusible link might be used to protect AWG 12 wiring. Electrical fusible links are common in high-current automotive applications. The wire in an electrical fusible link is encased in high-temperature fire-resistant insulation to reduce hazards when the wire melts."


http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairguides/GM-Century-Lumina-Grand-Prix-Intrigue-1997-2000/CIRCUIT-PROTECTION/Fusible-Links/_/P-0900c15280217ea7

[Baconbit]

Good info Jim...pullin through with the knowledge as always...:banana2:

[Mercguy04]

Please excuse me for intruding. Your install looks good, however since you are using a
Yellow top, it also comes with side terminals and could be run under the box just in back of it. JMHO. None the less it does look good
Russell

[bigdhasmoney]

oh man didn't even think of that. It looks like im gonna be rerouting wires sometime this week!

[Comin' in Hot]

Watch out... you could have a nice engine

I'm looking into replacing the entire battery cable harness already, bc it was hacked up when I got it.

[bigdhasmoney]

I didn't feel like making a new thread just for this.
Today i got my new amp in the mail and didnt waste anytime.
This things even bigger in person 22 inches long!
Not to bad for a rookie

[Smalldogg/03mm]

What r u putting in the truck and what size is that amp? I see its a soundstream, I like. Dam good amp.. I got something in the works also either kicker L7 or the JLw7 :)... Have highes already...

[bigdhasmoney]

I was looking into L7s but kicker is very well known and i did a lot of readin about l7s and the wattage they state is the wattage you get. So i wanted to be different by going with Fi. I have 2 fi Bl's, both dual 2 ohm and im making a box tuned to 30 hertz. And i didnt want to order subs like from kicker and have them just take it off the shelf and wipe the dust off. Fi makes them brand new per order. So no shelf stocking or thats what they say at least. The amp is 2600 watts at .5 ohms. But im gonna have my stuff hooked up at 2 ohms for 1200 watts just to break in the subs first, then after 6 months i might move it up to .5

[marauder410]

i got 2 kicker l7's 12' and i love them solar barics baby cant go wrong with kicker i wouldnt want any other subs besides maybe goin with the 15's:D kicker had that solid bass in my opinion best subs on the market for the price solar barics square subs put of 20% more bass than circle subs yeaaa buddyyy



What r u putting in the truck and what size is that amp? I see its a soundstream, I like. Dam good amp.. I got something in the works also either kicker L7 or the JLw7 :)... Have highes already...

[marauder410]

yea i doubt they just maek them when you pay thats a good way to get business i guess lol but had my kicker l7 for 3 years now and the kicker 3000 watt max power amp and both high quality never had a problem and still to today have never turned up all the way cuz never needed to so ive kept them prtty fresh

i say it better to have to much bass so you dont have to turn up al the way and keep the subs fresh

rather than to have too less and be turing it up alot and end up blowing the subs and wearing them out and blow them before you kno it



I was looking into L7s but kicker is very well known and i did a lot of readin about l7s and the wattage they state is the wattage you get. So i wanted to be different by going with Fi. I have 2 fi Bl's, both dual 2 ohm and im making a box tuned to 30 hertz. And i didnt want to order subs like from kicker and have them just take it off the shelf and wipe the dust off. Fi makes them brand new per order. So no shelf stocking or thats what they say at least. The amp is 2600 watts at .5 ohms. But im gonna have my stuff hooked up at 2 ohms for 1200 watts just to break in the subs first, then after 6 months i might move it up to .5

[marauder410]

most definalty have hours of bassing with the subs before turning up alot to break them in but sounds like you already kno the deal and seem like you def kno what your doin. take some pichures when your done wanna see what you got

i just bought another litte kicker amp so amplifie my door speaker and my custom kicker tweeter that are flush mounted in the a pillars

also man you might wanna def look into a little amplifier to amp your inside speaker you dont wanna have all that bass and over power your inside speaker and you will hear all bass and no words at all

and your def gonna need a high farad capasitor to keep your batterey and alternaotor good if not will drain them and when dark your headlights will dim when bass hits

[Baconbit]

So that fusible link is from the factory and on the wire that goes from the alternator to the battery??? If so, does anyone have an upgraded pic of the new wire they put on and what it should look like?

[ctrlraven]

Yes that is the alternator charge wire from the battery. In the OP's first post, the 3rd pic you can see the wire running to the alternator.

I'm question the ground connection only because isn't that piece aluminum?

[Baconbit]

Yes that is the alternator charge wire from the battery. In the OP's first post, the 3rd pic you can see the wire running to the alternator.


So what should the new wire look like then? Run a circuit breaker in place of the fusible link? I'm confused.(doesn't take much lol)

[camelgrundle]

The only system I need is the exhaust.

[ctrlraven]

So what should the new wire look like then? Run a circuit breaker in place of the fusible link? I'm confused.(doesn't take much lol)
Talk to FBM, I am still gathering info on the whole process myself as I've never done it before.

[MOTOWN]

This is the DB electrical alternator charging kit i used comes with 4gauge wire. terminals, shrinkwrap, and a 250 amp mountable fuse block

http://www.dbelectrical.com/wolthuis.aspx?productid=3478&size=medium