A/C rebuild questions.

[Bobmiddle]

My A/C compresser finaly went out after 2 years of groaning. Have new compressor, condencer and dryer to go in but am worried that contaminents in the hoses may be an issue. new oem hoses are in the $400 range and does not fit my budget. Any good way to clean out existing a/c hoses??? or am I being to cautious or misinformed???

[RoyLPita]

Subscribing.....

[Spectragod]

My A/C compresser finaly went out after 2 years of groaning. Have new compressor, condencer and dryer to go in but am worried that contaminents in the hoses may be an issue. new oem hoses are in the $400 range and does not fit my budget. Any good way to clean out existing a/c hoses??? or am I being to cautious or misinformed???

Did it puke metal particles into the system? If so, I would replace the lines.

[EMAS]

One thing I'm not seeing in your parts list that you must replace is the orifice tube. They used to all be in the evaporator's inlet but some on some Ford products it is part of the liquid line.

The orifice tube has a filter screen as part of it and if your compressor grenaded it is at least partially plugged and it will cause problems if not as soon as you put it back together then later.

If it is part of the line you can either replace the line which is preferred or you can get a kit where you cut out the portion of the line with the orifice tube and insert the section of tube that accepts a standard GM/Ford orifice tube and connected with the attached compression fittings.

Usually flushing lines is not recommended but there are a number of products available for flushing AC components. I'd stay away from the solvent based ones for the hoses. Napa offers both a solvent and non-solvent flush.

[Bobmiddle]

Not sure if it gernaded or not just trying to get all parts here be for i pull apart. I will check on the orifice tube an let you know

[fastblackmerc]

If the compressor grenaded, replace everything. You'll never never get all the tiny bits of metal out.

If the compressor didn't grenade, then replace the affect components, the receiver dryer and the orifice tube.

I'd also reseal the entire system (replace all the o-rings), added the required amount of oil and pull a vacuum (to make sure there are no leaks then recharge the system.

[EMAS]

I just went a looked at mine since it was light out and not pouring down rain and the orifice tube is located in the evaporator inlet. Looking at it will tell you a lot. If you see metal on it's screen then I'd replace the liquid line and the compressor hose assembly. Since you are that far then I'd replace the evap to receiver drier hose too. While you can often remove the orifice tube with needle nose pliers there is a special tool that is preferred. You can get it through Napa and its worth the few dollars to prevent damage to the sealing surface of the evap inlet. As FBM noted now is the time to replace all the o-rings as well and they must be rated for R-134a, the ones from the hardware store are not acceptable.

[Bobmiddle]

Got all new o-rings. I will pull down and see what it looks like.. If in doubt replace it all.. thanks for the input

[Richy04]

If the oriface tube has debris, you have crap in your lines. You will want to do the following.

Buy and use eye protection and do the following in a well ventilated area free from sparks or open flame.

Buy a big can of mineral spirits. You will use this to clean the lines.

Buy a GM suction screen for the suction line to the compressor. Match one that will press into the hose housing tightly. Napa has them. Looks like a thimble, you will insert the curved part into the hose and press it in tightly.

Buy a new condensor. R-134A Systems have very small cooling fins and they cant be cleaned.
Freon r134a NO SEALER IN THE PRODUCT!!
Ice 32 is ok and preferred, deduct for the amount of ice product in the freon from your oil figure (see below)
New compressor
New seals
New reciever drier
New oriface tube ( it pulls out) rated by color.
Buy a delco debris catch/line filter part number 15-10413

Ok now you will remove every line and clean them with the solvent, you can use the commercial ac line cleaners as well. Clean them all and blow them out until they are squeaky clean. Then clean out the evaporator, load it with cleaner and blow it out many times, there are wells in there which trap the cleaner so blow it out until its good and dry and make sure you flush it both ways with solvent and air. Install all of your new stuff, you will place the screen between the line and compressor Suction port. Press it into the line tightly. This will prevent anything from making its way into the compressor return.

You will then follow the pressure line to the condensor, somewhere in that line you will install the delco filter listed above. It comes with 3 line fittings for different size lines and self sealing ferrals. This will prevent anything from clogging your condensor in the future and will also catch anything missed. It goes in one way.

NOTE When adding oil it is best to add oil all around the system, if it takes 4 ounces, for example, add one ounce to the condensor, one ounce to the evaporate, etc.. some compressors come oiled, remove it and see how much is in there. Then put it back. Then deduct that amount from your dry figure. Add the needed remaining everewhere else.

Vac the system and check for leaks, add the proper type and amount of oil for a dry system and add dye.
Charge the system using gauges

[Richy04]

You wont have to change any lines unless there is a muffler in the line. A noticeable bump or section in the line to reduce noise.

Buy the kit, four seasons makes one with all seals compressor
Etc...

Do not use compressor oil on the seals to lube them, use a little silicone spray or light lube ...

[Bobmiddle]

Thanks for the info still have not done this yet but will soon