Fuel Pressure Regulator

[Marylandrauder]

This is Marylandrauder's son, I also have a Marauder, I went to leave my house today and the car stalled, started it back up and went down the road to get some gas. I started the car up and it stalled. On the way home it stalled when I came to a stop 2 times. I checked for any vacuum leaks and did not find anything. I have a 2004 Marauder with 52,000 miles.

The Fuel Filter was changed at 40,000 miles, I am going to see my friend tomorrow who is a mechanic that works out of his house. I did notice that while I was driving that the car ran a tad rough. How hard is it to change the Fuel Pressure Regulator and where is this located on our Marauder's. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

One other thought, when it stalled, I noticed the Battery Light came on, could I have an Alternator Problem. I did replace the Serpentine Belt, and it seems fine.

[RacerX]

FRPS is easy to replace. It's the little black, box looking piece of plastic on the end of the fuel rail towards the front of the car on the passenger side. You can pull the vacuum hose off of it and smell that for gas. If it's bad, you'll smell fuel in that. If you change it, pull the fuel pump fuse, bleed off excess pressure with the schrader valve on the end of the other fuel rail.

[Marylandrauder]

Thanks, now I know where it is, I will pull the Vacuum Hose off tommorow morning, and if it smells like gas, then I will go and pick one up, it should not be to expensive.

[TFB]

Don't count on the FP sensor being defective, should set a code if it is... Also you should at least verify fuel pressure before replacing anything...

[Marylandrauder]

Don't count on the FP sensor being defective, should set a code if it is... Also you should at least verify fuel pressure before replacing anything...

My mechanic told me to let him look at the car 1st, so I will not be buying anything until he checks everything out.

[FordNut]

What mods does the car have, and when were they done? What recent service has been done?

[Marylandrauder]

What mods does the car have, and when were they done? What recent service has been done?

They has been no Mods done to this car, I had the Fuel Filter changed at 37,000 miles. Maybe the Throttle Body needs cleaning or maybe the IACV needs cleaning or it needs to be changed.

This problem started yesterday with the Stalling Out.

[FordNut]

Sounds like you're on the right track, cleaning the IAC valve has helped others with similar problems.

Sometimes similar symptoms happen after air filter cleaning and re-oiling on K&N equipped cars, that is commonly traced to excessive oil and can be solved with MAF cleaning.

[Marylandrauder]

Where is the IAC Valve and what do you use to clean it, this car has a regular Air Filter.

[FordNut]

On the front of the throttle body. Take it off to clean it. CRC spray cleaner, I believe throttle body cleaner will work. If not, the right stuff should be in the same area on the store shelf.

[Marylandrauder]

I will give that a shot, what about the Mass Airflow Sensor, where is that located, I will deal with the Idle Control Valve 1st, so this Valve just pops off, you can see that I have not worked on Fuel Injected cars, guess I will learn some new stuff.
I think my Dad has some throttle body cleaner.

What is CRC spray cleaner.

So, the 1st step is to take the air hose off the throttle body and then I will see the Idle Control Valve.

[ctrlraven]

I will give that a shot, what about the Mass Airflow Sensor, where is that located, I will deal with the Idle Control Valve 1st, so this Valve just pops off, you can see that I have not worked on Fuel Injected cars, guess I will learn some new stuff.
I think my Dad has some throttle body cleaner.

What is CRC spray cleaner.

So, the 1st step is to take the air hose off the throttle body and then I will see the Idle Control Valve.

Use this CRC spray cleaner
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wcsstore/CVWEB/staticproductimage//N3225/large/7070074_crc_05103_pri_larg.jpg

It is safe to use on the MAF and idle control valve.

The Idle Control Valve looks like this
http://www.doautoparts.com/html-en/image/1-omJQFRKVJEZr-1-1.jpg
It is held on by two bolts on the front side of the throttle body, unplug the black plug undo the two bolts and spray the crap out of the unit and let it dry before reinstalling.

The MAFS is located on the air intake zip tube directly behind the air box itself. You will need a secure torx bit driver to remove it, just make sure to not let anything touch the inside sensor when you remove it other than the CRC electronics cleaner.

Here is a picture
http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/2966/40263620565506319191789.jpg

[na svt]

My mechanic told me to let him look at the car 1st, so I will not be buying anything until he checks everything out.
Just pull the vacuum hose off of the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, if fuel is present you've found the problem. They are expensive.

[Siege]

Where are you in MD? If you're close you're welcome to stop by and we can plug in the Scangauge and check the fuel pump duty cycle.

[FordNut]

Just pull the vacuum hose off of the Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor, if fuel is present you've found the problem. They are expensive.

And they rarely fail on stock, naturally aspirated engines.

[na svt]

And they rarely fail on stock, naturally aspirated engines.
I had one "rarely" fail on my n/a Mach 1 a couple months ago.

[FordNut]

I had one "rarely" fail on my n/a Mach 1 a couple months ago.

Well, I guess I learned another lesson. You know what they say, you learn something every day...

Stock, factory tune?

BTW, most of the ones I've heard of being blown can be traced back to the tune and/or fuel system mods. I've never blown one.

[na svt]

Well, I guess I learned another lesson. You know what they say, you learn something every day...

Stock, factory tune?

BTW, most of the ones I've heard of being blown can be traced back to the tune and/or fuel system mods. I've never blown one.

That was on a stock tune.

[bugsyc]

I just have to say that this is why this site is so great...All of the real wrench turners giving up some time to help a guy that's not very knowledeable out...You all and MM are really great.I'm proud to be a member...bugsy

[RF Overlord]

you can see that I have not worked on Fuel Injected cars, guess I will learn some new stuff.One more thing...DO NOT use old-school carb cleaner on the MAF or the throttle body. This is not your father's Oldsmobile...well OK your father drives a Marauder too, but you get my drift... :) . Use either residue-free electronic parts cleaner as posted above, or something like CRC MAF cleaner.

[FordNut]

That was on a stock tune.

I'll keep my eyes open for that then. Wife's MM has 185k miles on it now.

[Marylandrauder]

Thursday Morining I cleaned the IAC Valve, it was not that dirty, took the car for a drive that morning and everything was great. Took the car out in the afternoon, and the problems came back, I went to see my mechanic buddy and he cleaned my MAF, it was actually pretty clean, but my Throttle Body had quite a bit of carbon, so we cleaned it up, the car runs smooth, but I still have a stalling problem every time I start the car up. I picked up a new IAC Valve from Ford and put it on the car tonite, still no difference.

There are no codes, maybe it is the Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, I probably need to go to Ford and have this car put up on the Scanner, we are going to have some wet weather tommorow, I will see if there is anything that is odd inside of the engine. My mechanic buddy thinks that since there was carbon inisde the Throttle Body that maybe some junk got into the IAC, he said that maybe I would need to drive the car for awhile with the new IAC Valve. Any thoughts are appreciated.

[Blackened300a]

Thursday Morining I cleaned the IAC Valve, it was not that dirty, took the car for a drive that morning and everything was great. Took the car out in the afternoon, and the problems came back, I went to see my mechanic buddy and he cleaned my MAF, it was actually pretty clean, but my Throttle Body had quite a bit of carbon, so we cleaned it up, the car runs smooth, but I still have a stalling problem every time I start the car up. I picked up a new IAC Valve from Ford and put it on the car tonite, still no difference.

There are no codes, maybe it is the Torque Converter Lock Up Switch, I probably need to go to Ford and have this car put up on the Scanner, we are going to have some wet weather tommorow, I will see if there is anything that is odd inside of the engine. My mechanic buddy thinks that since there was carbon inisde the Throttle Body that maybe some junk got into the IAC, he said that maybe I would need to drive the car for awhile with the new IAC Valve. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Im not agreeing with the throttle body cleaning gumming up a new IAC. Did you verify fuel pressure and volume? Also you said the engine is running a tad rough, that combined with stalling sounds like vacuum leak. The tube that comes off the PVC and plugs into the upper intake lid leaked on my car and gave me a rough idle, there is no clamp on it from the factory, but I put one on and that took care of my issue. Also make sure your air intake tubes are tight and secure. Also check the rubber tube under the throttle body, that is also just plugged in and will cause a vacuum leak if not secured. Coils have also failed without a setting a code and act erratic. They will drive fine under a load, miss at idle or idle smooth and break up under a load. Hopefully if will get worse so you will figure out the issue.

[Marylandrauder]

When I put the new IACV on I put the new gasket over the old gasket, corrected my mistake and for now the car seems fine, it did not stall on me yesterday, I will see how things go the next time I drive the car.

[Marauderjack]

When I put the new IACV on I put the new gasket over the old gasket, corrected my mistake and for now the car seems fine, it did not stall on me yesterday, I will see how things go the next time I drive the car.


Did you reset the adaptive learning in the EEC by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a few minutes??

If not it is worth doing so the EEC can re-learn the idle parameters with the new IAC valve!!:beer:

[Marylandrauder]

Did you reset the adaptive learning in the EEC by disconnecting the negative battery terminal for a few minutes??

If not it is worth doing so the EEC can re-learn the idle parameters with the new IAC valve!!:beer:

No, I did not do that, thanks for the info, I will go ahead and disconnect the negative battery terminal for a few minutes.

[sbutler83]

Blackened, what am I looking for to verify the fuel pressure? I can see that this car has a different fuel pressure regulating system than any I've ever owned. I stuck a gage on the Fuel rail and it the needle vibrates a lot, like you'd expect if you were plugged onto the manifold vacuum on an old carbed vehicle idling with a high duration camshaft. We're talking 5PSI fluctuations at idle with no change in engine load. Nothing like the smooth transitioning fuel pressure gage needle I'm used to seeing on the diaphragm pressure regulators. Is this normal for these cars or did I find the problem?
I also have an autoenginuity scan tool, what else am I looking for on the fuel system?