Strange Tire Wear and Rearend Leak/Upgrade Question

[capt512]

Good Evening Everyone,

So this last week I have been doing a good bit of work to the MM...some with less than stellar results and some with not so bad. Took the car to the tint shop and got it tinted...this was the best tint shop in the state supposedly and had over 50 5star reviews... It was done horribly... The rear window tint wasn't cut as large as it should be and is too small in places, there are 4-5 scratches through the tint on the rear window, there are bubbles in the side window, and a large amount of dust under the passenger front window...lifetime warranty supposedly...so it will be going back for that.

Got a light from Sirennet.com that I will be putting in the CHMSL and looks pretty good...FBM has another solution I may also try.

Now down to the questions...
The past two days I have noticed what sounded like studs on the tires or nails sticking half out (clicking) when driving the car from 10-20mph...pretty loud (female passenger noted it as well)... didn't drive it much but decided today to take a look at it.

So I pulled the rear tires off (all 4 tires are winter tires, General Altimax Artic w/o studs) and are slightly oversized as other members are running on here. However I immediatly noticed the tires appeared cupped...backwards? All the ribs were visibly raised..as in if you run your hand over the tread you feel the ribs sticking way up...but the direction they are raised is only noticeable if you were driving backwards.... The fronts are not this way and I have never seen anything like this before... Thoughts???????

Next immediatly after pulling the wheel off I noted it was coated with oil inside...argh. I have not done anything with the rearend of this vehicle...don't know if the previous two owners did, and hadn't noticed any problems. It appears the passenger side wheel hub/axle is leaking...I had this problem previously on a CV....but this is a first on the MM. So questions - how much should I expect to spend for seal replacements on both rears...and then problems that I should plan for them to find?

While in there should I change over to 4.10s? Would that be much more costly? Do I need a tune with 4.10s? Thanks

[Richy04]

03's have a problem with wheel bearings and axle wear and seals. Check the axles for wear when they are out.. A word of caution, go buy the 8.8 pinion pin retainer bolt now, you may have to order it so get it now even if you have it done, that part will hold up the job for 3 days if it is broken. Give the mechanic the new one to put in. They snap at the taper and are a b itch to get out when that happens. When you order seals, try to get the originals with the rim, they seat better than the replacements without.
If the axles have wear where the bearings ride, replace them with new and change out the bearings and seals.. Common on the 03's, not so much on the 04's which tend to need seals at about 90-100k miles..

[capt512]

Would that be the same as the pinion shaft lock bolt?

[SC Cheesehead]

03's have a problem with wheel bearings and axle wear and seals. Check the axles for wear when they are out.. A word of caution, go buy the 8.8 pinion pin retainer bolt now, you may have to order it so get it now even if you have it done, that part will hold up the job for 3 days if it is broken. Give the mechanic the new one to put in. They snap at the taper and are a b itch to get out when that happens. When you order seals, try to get the originals with the rim, they seat better than the replacements without.
If the axles have wear where the bearings ride, replace them with new and change out the bearings and seals.. Common on the 03's, not so much on the 04's which tend to need seals at about 90-100k miles..

^^^^ What Richy said.

While you're at it, may as well go ahead and have the clutches rebuilt as well.

If you've not gone to 4.10s already, this would be a goosd time to do it as the rear end's gonna be torn down anyway.

[capt512]

How much should I look to pay to have all that done? And do I need a tune to run 4.10s, I know my speedo will be off (by how much)...but don't know if it will mess other stuff up to... Don't have money for a tune as well right now is why I was asking.

[RF Overlord]

Yeah, what Richy04 said ^^^

Do you NEED a tune? Well, no...the car is driveable and it won't hurt anything...but your speedo will read 15% high and your shift points will occur way too early. You won't get the full advantage (and fun) of 4.10s without it.

[SC Cheesehead]

Yeah, what Richy04 said ^^^

Do you NEED a tune? Well, no...the car is driveable and it won't hurt anything...but your speedo will read 15% high and your shift points will occur way too early. You won't get the full advantage (and fun) of 4.10s without it.


Yup, even without the 4.10s, a good performance tune is worth every penny.

[capt512]

Hmm... My three mods had planned to be 4.10s, tune, and CAI but each was a good chunk of cash (specifically the tune and 4.10s) so thats why I was wondering about the tune, I don't doubt the improvement with it, just wouldn't be able to afford it for a while, maybe i'll ask about it while the shop is in there.

[capt512]

So car is at the shop and the shop advised that there is significant play in the axles, they they move up and down almost an inch as well as in and out almost the same, have yet to tear it down. Ideas as to what would cause this so I can check what they are saying...

[RubberCtyRauder]

Sounds like the possible soft axle shaft problem, The bearings have maybe significantly worn a smaller diameter ring on the shaft around where they contact the shaft, thus creating the almost inch of "play"

[capt512]

Thats what I was thinking, we will see what they come up with. No shops around me I trust really, so I'll see what they say.

[RF Overlord]

there is significant play in the axles, they they move up and down almost an inch as well as in and out almost the same,.Dude, have you seen this for yourself? There's no way you could have THAT much play in the axles and have the car be driveable.

[STEPS]

I had to change rear passenger side wheel bearing at 35k ok now 410's good yes need to upgrade the speedo a tune will do that.

[capt512]

Not yet, I had to drop it off before work so I won't get a chance to check everything out for myself until tommorow most likely, then I'll take a looksie. I thought it sounded pretty wierd as well as I didn't notice any issues otherwise. They haven't been authorized to do any repairs yet beside the seals so right now they are just tearing things down and taking a look. They quoted me $185 to do both rear seals...don't know how inline that is or not? Didn't seem to bad, have used them before for the same and they seemed to do a good job. They charge more for some stuff but seem to mostly use motorcraft parts.

[capt512]

So just got a call from mechanic said the whole rear is blown and will be $4000 to fix and still might roar. I drove this car in with no problems but the leak, no noise etc. I told him to put it all back together and is figure something out. That sounds WAYYYYYY high to me seeing as how it drove fine. He said none of the parts from a cv etc would work hence the high price. Said he can't even get the axles out. This sounds off too. Thoughts?

[Gryphonzus]

I had the rear tire fall off my 2003 MM, the axle broke. The shop wanted about $1000.00 to fix it. I found on the internet that Ford has a repair kit that has all the poarts to fix the rear end. Axles, bearings, seals, and rear lube without the friction modifier for about $300.00. If you can get the shop to order it or if they will let you use their company name I paid less than $200.00 for the kit. I think this is the correct part number; axle repair kit 3W1Z-4A109-AA. Hope this helps!! Good Luck

[EMAS]

So just got a call from mechanic said the whole rear is blown and will be $4000 to fix and still might roar. I drove this car in with no problems but the leak, no noise etc. I told him to put it all back together and is figure something out. That sounds WAYYYYYY high to me seeing as how it drove fine. He said none of the parts from a cv etc would work hence the high price. Said he can't even get the axles out. This sounds off too. Thoughts?

Yeah you need a second opinion. That is WAAAAYYYY to high. Parts from/for a CV DO work and they are not that expensive and neither is the labor to do a complete rebuild.

Hopefully he hasn't messed anything else up thinking that the way to remove the axles is with a slide hammer instead of removing the C-clips after draining the lube and pulling the cross-shaft. Granted the pin/bolt that retains the cross shaft has been known to be problematic to remove but still.

[RF Overlord]

mechanic said the whole rear is blown and will be $4000 to fix and still might roar.You could buy an entire rear end assembly brand new from Ford and have it installed for far less money than that. He's either stupid or a crook.
I told him to put it all back together and is figure something out. Good answer. Run away!
He said none of the parts from a cv etc would work hence the high price.He is badly mistaken. See my first answer...

If there's a local Mustang club, check with them about who they use for rear-end work. They're almost identical...

[RF Overlord]

I paid less than $200.00 for the kit. I think this is the correct part number; axle repair kit 3W1Z-4A109-AA. That's the right kit, but Ford has jacked the price through the roof...it's now over $500

[babbage]

So just got a call from mechanic said the whole rear is blown and will be $4000 to fix and still might roar. I drove this car in with no problems but the leak, no noise etc. I told him to put it all back together and is figure something out. That sounds WAYYYYYY high to me seeing as how it drove fine. He said none of the parts from a cv etc would work hence the high price. Said he can't even get the axles out. This sounds off too. Thoughts?

Just wanted to say: Run like hell!

2 new axles is about 350.00 - 28 sline dormans (a cv axle)
1 new trac-lok $200
1 new ring and pinon about $180 tops
1 new master bearing kit mega $120 - new seals - everything (some extra)
3 quarts of 75w-140 synth - $50 or break in using dino oil for 500 miles then SYN


Labor about 3 hours tops so figure $225

TOTAL: $1125 - and those are very fair slightly rounded up prices.

[babbage]

Rockauto has good quality oem compatible Dorman brand axles for $107.00 each. New nuts, studs and bearings, rolled splines - everything in picture. Same for right and left so that's only $214 not $350 as above.
http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imageurl=http%3A% 2F%2Finfo.rockauto.com%2FRB%2F 630-214-007.jpg&imagekey=1058906-0&width=450
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1058906

[ktt]

Oil behind wheel= axle seals
Cupping on rear tire= worn shocks/unbalanced wheel.
$4000 for full rear end rebuild= thief on the highest level

[capt512]

Too bad the kit has gone up though thats still less than $4k! I picked the car up and drove it to another shop that I used a few years ago for a CV rearend, the mechanic there was in love with the car so hopefully he will do a good job, he quoted $1200 if everything in there needed to be redone and he didn't think it would, neither do I. I would guess either just seals or seals and axles.

As far as the tires, its hard to explain what is going on with them, both rears are the same, and the fronts are smooth. Here is a picture http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g147/jamnbak2u/IMAG0737.jpg if you see all the little grooves, they are all raised up alot more than they appear. If you run your hands over the tire it really catches your hand where as the front your hand just slides over. Its wierd.

[EMAS]

That is normal for that type of tire, nothing to worry about. Yes you would think the taper would be the other direction but no they wear the opposite of the way you would think. I wish I could tell you why they do it that way I just know they do.

[capt512]

Awesome so I won't worry about the tires then. Thanks

[RF Overlord]

Rockauto has good quality oem compatible Dorman brand axles for $107.00 each. Before buying these, read this (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=76713) post, especially reply #13.

I bought Phoebe's axles at the exact same time as the OP in that thread and both of mine are now ruined as well. I am contacting Rock Auto to see if they'll do anything for me, too. Maybe they got a bad batch.

[babbage]

I'm sure you all know this but I'll say it anyway. When there is a rear end/axle related failure metal gets *everywhere* and all bearings, pumpkin and gears are suspect and you should look for chipped teeth etc. Replace everything damaged and flush out the axles and pumpkin and make sure it's all new and perfect and clean - then install all new parts otherwise you may end up doing it again. Labor costs about as much as all new parts so you might consider all new for complete peace of mind.

[capt512]

*update* Got the car back last night from the shop, 1095.23 later all seems good. The Ring & Pinion didn't get replaced or carrier, just didn't have the money to replace all that as well, they looked through it thoroughly and saw no wear on them. Replaced both axles (passenger side had significant wear...would have broken in two soon), replaced both bearings, replaced emergency brake shoes as they were all messed up, replaced rear brake pads as they were soaked in grease, resurfaced rotors (will probably replace rotors and pads later this summer, but needed new pads until then as the old ones were shot), replaced rear wheel seals, and put in new fluid.