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Reek09
02-16-2012, 09:58 PM
:help:I went in the store, came back out started my car put it in gear and it started sputtering like i didnt have any gas and cut off. Tried to start it back up and all i got was crank and no fire. Could the throttle position sensor have quit working or does it sound like the fuel pump??:help:

marauder410
02-16-2012, 10:06 PM
thats a bummer i found out mine was goin bad under the hood you can press your fuel line and if fuel squirts out and goes pretty far then its not the fuel pump i pressed mine at the was just a little drule came out

Merrill
02-16-2012, 10:06 PM
When you turn on the ignition before cranking the motor do you hear the fuel pump run?

Reek09
02-16-2012, 10:10 PM
Merrill i was listening for that and trying to remember how it sounds. I think i do remember a distinct little bump and hum when it comes on. I dont think i heard it when i was trying to crank it back up.

Merrill
02-16-2012, 10:14 PM
Your fuel pump should run for 3 to 5 seconds until the system is pressurized,
if you hear nothing, that is not good. First check the reset, I think it is drivers side in the trunk, check owners manual. The pump can still run and not have enough pressure to fire the injectors, but if you don't hear it you know it's not working.

Reek09
02-17-2012, 01:59 AM
My fuel pump shut off switch seems to be engaged and I can't get it to pop back up..does this happen when the fuel pump dies? How can I get the button to pop back up??

boatmangc
02-17-2012, 05:04 AM
It pops out on impact
If you can't hear it running look for a fuse, your owners manual will show you location.

tbone
02-17-2012, 08:19 AM
thats a bummer i found out mine was goin bad under the hood you can press your fuel line and if fuel squirts out and goes pretty far then its not the fuel pump i pressed mine at the was just a little drule came out

This test is the best way. I just went through this whole exercise. The pump fired up ok, but couldn't hold pressure.

marauder410
02-17-2012, 08:26 AM
awesome im learning some stuff thats how i found out mine was bad i pushed the little buttom on fuse pressure line and barely anything squirted out if it squirts beyond and out from under the hood then your fuel pump is fine but if jus drizzles then yet gonna need a new pump

BODYMAN
02-17-2012, 09:54 AM
Yep just cause U hear pump run does not mean it is good. As for fuel inertia switch it is supposed to be in the pushed in position only when impact occurs it pops up. Bang on the tank with a rubber mallet see if it starts if so pump is going bad. Like others said ck the fuse fuse under hood & make sure it is good. Then you can take the frps loose if it squirts fuel that means ur getting fuel. All quick and easy ck's

Reek09
02-17-2012, 10:38 AM
Well i checked the fuse and the relay both were fine. So that leaves me to say that my fuel pump has died. I hear nothing when i turn the key to the on position. So now i guess im gonna be ordering one from rock auto. And can somebody tell me the location of the pump. Is it attatched to the bottom of the tank covered by that metal thingy on the bottom of the tank? Prob will replace myself shouldnt be too hard.

jstevens
02-17-2012, 10:43 AM
The thing on the bottom is something to do with air quality, I think the pump is in the tank.

Reek09
02-17-2012, 11:13 AM
Great..i dont think i wanna do that myself then. And when i look up the fuel pump i see two different kinds. Which one is for our MM's? I see one that looks simple like just a cylinder and the other one looks weird..?

FrankJAG
02-17-2012, 11:21 AM
This might help.
http://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2452638
A buddy of mine replaced one on our 01 CVPI and dropped the tank, the real bear was getting the tank straps to go back on. You should have enough room if you loosen them, if you take them off, it's a real PITA!
There are several threads on this topic, use the google search over there.
It's not a very "fun" job. Good luck!

tbone
02-17-2012, 11:22 AM
Get a Walbro 255 lph pump. Some guys are going with 400 lph now, but it is overkill for most cars, imho.

I paid $108.50 shipped from JDS Performance. It was a complete kit, even the filter, not just the pump.

I was scared to do it myself, but bit the bullet and took on the project. The biggest issue is making sure you put the gasket back on correctly. I found out the hard way it is imperative you put it back on in the same orientation it came off. (Screw pulling the tank. Too much work.)

I did have to snip the power wires because of not enough slack. Be sure to disco the battery. Tape them back up real nice and no issues.

EMAS
02-17-2012, 12:41 PM
I haven't done it on a Panther with the 98-up style rear suspension but I did do it on my 92 and it was easy to do w/o dropping the tank. The big caveat is that you want the tank to be pretty close to empty. Jack it up and support it at the frame rails. Make it high enough so that the rear suspension can go to full extension. Then if you are careful you can weasel the pump/sender assembly out and over/around the rear axle.

BODYMAN
02-17-2012, 12:47 PM
Pump Change out is a breeze. Get her up on jack stands Take rt tailpipe out of its hanger and pull it as far over to the rt as possible and that will give you the clearance to pull the whole sender/pump assy out to repl pump it's easier then you would think.

M96SS
02-17-2012, 02:54 PM
I followed this guide to diagnose my pump problems. I ended up going with the SVT Focus pump.

http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56597&highlight=fuel+pump

Phrog_gunner
02-17-2012, 04:14 PM
I followed this guide to diagnose my pump problems. I ended up going with the SVT Focus pump.

http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56597&highlight=fuel+pump

When I changed my pump after ^ this, I did it without dropping the tank. I just loosened the straps as much as possible. The biggest pain after that was the wiring harness which clips and routes over the top of the tank because I refused to take the easy way out and just cut the wires.

justbob
02-17-2012, 06:40 PM
Get a Walbro 255 lph pump. Some guys are going with 400 lph now, but it is overkill for most cars, imho.

I paid $108.50 shipped from JDS Performance. It was a complete kit, even the filter, not just the pump.

I was scared to do it myself, but bit the bullet and took on the project. The biggest issue is making sure you put the gasket back on correctly. I found out the hard way it is imperative you put it back on in the same orientation it came off. (Screw pulling the tank. Too much work.)

I did have to snip the power wires because of not enough slack. Be sure to disco the battery. Tape them back up real nice and no issues.

You didn't have to snip the wires. IIRC, there is two pieces of tape holding it to the harness. Snip the tape and you have plenty of slack. Never had an issue with the gasket though?

guspech750
02-17-2012, 08:10 PM
You didn't have to snip the wires. IIRC, there is two pieces of tape holding it to the harness. Snip the tape and you have plenty of slack. Never had an issue with the gasket though?

No snipping of pump wires for us Bob.


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Reek09
02-23-2012, 10:11 AM
Which pump is the right one..on rock auto its two different kinds. One just looks like a basic one cylinder shaped and the other looks weird like everything is exposed on it..

tbone
02-23-2012, 11:28 AM
You didn't have to snip the wires. IIRC, there is two pieces of tape holding it to the harness. Snip the tape and you have plenty of slack. Never had an issue with the gasket though?

The wires went over by the rr wheel and disappeared up into no man's land. I tried to get some slack, but there was none to be had. There was no extra loop or anything taped up. Just a straight run.

The gasket stretched a little when I took it off, causing a seating issue on reassembly. The new gasket was super rigid and hard to work with, so I tossed it.

tbone
02-23-2012, 11:30 AM
Which pump is the right one..on rock auto its two different kinds. One just looks like a basic one cylinder shaped and the other looks weird like everything is exposed on it..


The pump is a cylnder. The other one you're talking about is the whole sending unit /mounting assembly.

Reek09
02-28-2012, 01:02 PM
Is it necessary to disconnect the fuel lines if I'm just swapping out the pump? Can't I just pull the assembly out of the tank and swap the pump??

justbob
02-28-2012, 01:08 PM
Is it necessary to disconnect the fuel lines if I'm just swapping out the pump? Can't I just pull the assembly out of the tank and swap the pump??

Yes, you can "do it on the fly".

Mikey, are we there yet???

Reek09
02-28-2012, 02:02 PM
What can I use to disconnect the harness at the top of the tank that runs to the fuel pump? I wasn't snot to drop the tank because my bolt is rusted and won't budge??

Reek09
02-28-2012, 02:03 PM
I can't get to that connector like I want is it something I can stick in there. I saw on here somewhere that somebody made some sort of tool..

justbob
02-28-2012, 03:53 PM
Fuel line disconnect tools are sold at all auto part stores for about $10. If its wiring your having trouble with, then follow the wires up to the harness they come out of and do some untaping or cut them like some do and butt connect them back. Do not touch the tank bolts, there is no need.

Really, this is a 30 minute job with a jack, don't get frustrated over it.

Mikey, are we there yet???

Reek09
02-28-2012, 07:18 PM
Now I'm really frustrated! Changed my pump and still can't start her up. I had to cut the wires to get the assembly out and I put them back together but the pump still isn't engaging. Maybe one of the wires I put back together came loose but I taped them up pretty good so they shouldn't have. I don't know what to do next...

justbob
02-28-2012, 07:21 PM
Fuse? Relay? Inertia switch? Recheck wires with a continuity light.

Mikey, are we there yet???

Reek09
02-29-2012, 04:40 AM
Checked fuse and relay before I did the pump both were ok..guess I have to check that switch in the trunk. Guess I did this kinda assed backwards thinking it was my pump that failed. I was stuck on it being the pump because my car started then chugged then cut off. I was thinking if it was the switch in the trunk then it wouldn't have happened like that after starting up it just wouldn't have started at all I thought..

Reek09
03-01-2012, 03:20 PM
Been having an issue with my car not starting. New fuel pump, fuses are good, inertia switch good, fuel pump delivery module good but my car still won't start. Fuel pump still doesn't engage when I turn the key..I'm totally lost don't know what else to do besides getting it towed to a shop.

Odinson
03-01-2012, 03:44 PM
Can't hang here but I have a few questions that might help.

Does starter turn over? Does it sound weak?
Any weird behavior lately? Stuttering?
Did the old pump fail or did you upgrade? Do you still have the old pump?
Are you running a boost a pump?
I could swear there was something you could disconnect to physically see if there was fuel pressure.
What's the mileage?

RacerX
03-01-2012, 03:50 PM
I would test resistance in the wires. Check the leads going to the pump at the harness. Check the harness at the FPDM for corrosion in the connector (shouldn't be) or to see if it's loose...

marauder21
03-01-2012, 03:52 PM
Always start with the simplest problems first..does it have gas? (I'm sure it does) battery drained? Etc etc...I would check the starter I mean does the car crank?

Blackened300a
03-01-2012, 04:28 PM
Been having an issue with my car not starting. New fuel pump, fuses are good, inertia switch good, fuel pump delivery module good but my car still won't start. Fuel pump still doesn't engage when I turn the key..I'm totally lost don't know what else to do besides getting it towed to a shop.

What's the PATS light on the dash doing? Should be steady when you start it, if it's blinking then it's a PATS issue and won't kick the fuel pump on. Try a spare key if the PATS light is blinking. You check the fuel cutoff switch in the trunk? It should be pushed all the way down. Also do all the accessories turn on when you turn the key to the run position? You could be looking at a ignition switch issue.

Michael
03-01-2012, 09:10 PM
First thing I do when a vehicle cranks but no start is shoot a little ether in the intake, if it runs for a second or two move on to pounding the gas tank and then crank it again, if it starts, replace pump, if it still does not start it can still be the pump, but you will need to do some of the steps you have already tried.

Just rule out the ignition (spark), first.:burnout:

marauder410
03-01-2012, 10:54 PM
my guess is a pat issue like said above check your light blinking then bad same problem with my car replaced the starter new battery and fuses and just used my spare key and it started right up :lol: the chip in key went bad that was it these crazy carsss got a mind of there own trust me on that one

MrBluGruv
03-01-2012, 11:01 PM
Silly thought, may not be applicable though:

You are SURE the gear selector is in Park? And under the car, you are SURE that that selection has actually moved the arm connected to the transmission into the Park position?

This may not be the culprit, since you say you don't even hear the fuel pump engage, but it's worth the few seconds it would take just to be sure it's not this problem...

fastblackmerc
03-01-2012, 11:48 PM
Check if you have power to the fuel pump. If not check the relay #203 in the Power Distribution Box under the hood, behind the battery.

knine
03-02-2012, 12:41 AM
Impact switch in the trunk pop?

Reek09
03-02-2012, 03:11 AM
It's gotta be something related to the fuel pump because the pump is not engaging when I turn the key. When I turn the key its just cranks but doesn't fire up. The battery was kinda weak from sitting without starting so I hooked up cables let it juice up still won't fire. I checked the nozzle on the fuel rail no gas came out. It's funny because it kinda started one time but chugged back off. But like I said fuel pump isn't engaging. I swapped the fpdm and the inertia switch still nothing. Relay is good in #203 and the fuse in the box under the hood is ok also. Guess it won't hurt tryin the spare key..

knine
03-02-2012, 03:16 AM
I'm really curious about this, mine did it once. Low voltage at the pump was one of the codes. Replaced the pump (Zack of course-thanks again buddy!) and all was well.

tbone
03-02-2012, 07:23 AM
Now I'm really frustrated! Changed my pump and still can't start her up. I had to cut the wires to get the assembly out and I put them back together but the pump still isn't engaging. Maybe one of the wires I put back together came loose but I taped them up pretty good so they shouldn't have. I don't know what to do next...

I knew I wasn't the only one!

tbone
03-02-2012, 07:25 AM
Been having an issue with my car not starting. New fuel pump, fuses are good, inertia switch good, fuel pump delivery module good but my car still won't start. Fuel pump still doesn't engage when I turn the key..I'm totally lost don't know what else to do besides getting it towed to a shop.

If you don't hear the pump when you turn on the key, then the wiring you cut is bad. Take it back apart and double check it. You came this far. Don't tow it to a shop.

knine
03-02-2012, 10:32 PM
My CV squad did this once, turned out it was the crank sensor. Totally forgot about that until now, sorry.

Reek09
03-05-2012, 06:22 AM
So does a bad crank sensor stop the fuel pump from engaging when u turn the key??

FF1077
03-16-2012, 04:17 PM
Now I'm really frustrated! Changed my pump and still can't start her up. I had to cut the wires to get the assembly out and I put them back together but the pump still isn't engaging. Maybe one of the wires I put back together came loose but I taped them up pretty good so they shouldn't have. I don't know what to do next...


When you say you taped them up pretty good, did you use a butt splice or solder the wires together?
Also someone asks what the PATS light was doing when you turned the key. I didnt see an answer for that.

Reek09
03-17-2012, 10:25 AM
When you say you taped them up pretty good, did you use a butt splice or solder the wires together?
Also someone asks what the PATS light was doing when you turned the key. I didnt see an answer for that.

I didn't solder the wires back together I butt connected them back together then taped them up individually. And my pats light blinks and when I turn the key to crank it the light goes off.

justbob
03-17-2012, 12:21 PM
Let's rule out a bad connection as the original problem he is having is the same problem he still has. You don't happen to have a chip do you? If so, I can relate to your exact issues.

Reek09
03-17-2012, 03:32 PM
I didn't put a chip in but I don't know if the previous owner did or not. How would I know if there was one installed? When I bought it it had 77,000 or so on it.

NATEHAWK
03-17-2012, 03:41 PM
The chip would be installed in a slot on ur ECM. It would stand out.

Reek09
03-17-2012, 03:50 PM
The chip would be installed in a slot on ur ECM. It would stand out.

I haven't even pulled it to look at it. It's in the shop now though. The guy didn't say anything about a chip. I think they are really tryin to get over on me. I think they know what's wrong but tryin to get 1100 dollars outta me.

justbob
03-17-2012, 06:15 PM
If it does, chips are VERY sensitive to corrosion you can't even see. And if not duct taped down properly, the car will do exactly as you describe. Ask me how I know..

drwhy
05-29-2012, 07:11 AM
I haven't even pulled it to look at it. It's in the shop now though. The guy didn't say anything about a chip. I think they are really tryin to get over on me. I think they know what's wrong but tryin to get 1100 dollars outta me.

Did you ever find out what the problem was?

Tom

Reek09
06-01-2012, 09:12 PM
Did you ever find out what the problem was?

Tom

Corroded wires inside the left fender had to be repaired. Cost me a computer too because the shop told me it wasn't communicating with their diagnostic equipment..