Drivetrain Vibration

[Comin' in Hot]

I have a slight vibration when I go from light acceleration to coasting and vice-versa.

My inital thought is a U-joint. Last night I jacked up my car and looked for play in the u-joints, I didn't find any. I did however find slight lateral play in the yoke going into the transmission. It seems like the driveshaft isn't long enough, like the yoke should slide in farther. My driveshaft is not stock, it's made by Dynotech. I can't find any serial number on it. I'm thinking mine might be one of the first ones for a marauder and possibly might be different from a newly purchased driveshaft.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[Comin' in Hot]

I forgot to add, I have a video of it on my phone, but dont know how to upload it

[capt512]

Check your axles too if you haven't. Mine was doing the same (and thats really all it did, aka no noise) and when I took it in the shop the passenger rear axle was almost in two.

[drewb457]

did you jack up on the frame or the pumpkin? if you did on the frame the diff drops a little and the slip yoke slips out, its what its supposed to do. also it could be a frozen u joint not just a loose one

[Comin' in Hot]

Check your axles too if you haven't. Mine was doing the same (and thats really all it did, aka no noise) and when I took it in the shop the passenger rear axle was almost in two.

I doubt its the axles bc they are 31 spline, but I will look at it if the drive shaft isnt the issue.... im thinking i should take the driveshaft out of my other marauder and see it is stops the vibration

[Comin' in Hot]

did you jack up on the frame or the pumpkin? if you did on the frame the diff drops a little and the slip yoke slips out, its what its supposed to do. also it could be a frozen u joint not just a loose one

I have is supported my jackstands on the frame, but I have the diff at ride height

[Comin' in Hot]

The second two are videos, just click on them.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/433c6fee.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/th_f636a27b.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/?action=view&current=f636a27b.mp4)
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/th_d2d03bed.jpg (http://s22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/?action=view&current=d2d03bed.mp4)

[Blackened300a]

That does seem to be a bit more play in that shaft then normal. Try the swap and go from there. Did you remove the bolts off the rear yoke to shove the shaft further into the tail shaft and checked the play?

[Comin' in Hot]

That does seem to be a bit more play in that shaft then normal. Try the swap and go from there. Did you remove the bolts off the rear yoke to shove the shaft further into the tail shaft and checked the play?

I did not.... But I noticed the splines start half way inside the yoke and I think it's too short,.... I wonder if I could change the yoke to a fully splined yoke.

[Comin' in Hot]

I'm going to check to see how far I could slide the shaft on when I get home tomorrow.

[Comin' in Hot]

I pulled this pic from the rolling chassis that is for sale and it looks like the yoke is not in the transmission far enough
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/70b09114.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/433c6fee.jpg

[Comin' in Hot]

I figured out the the trans built by Lentech was built with the short tailshaft and tail housing. I also have the Marauder Dynotech driveshaft. The splines on the slip yoke are set back approximately 1 1/2" - 2". Meaning the splines in the yoke and the tail shaft splines were only making contact by approximately 3/8".*

The issue is that I have the incorrect tailshaft and tail housing, so how do I solve the problem?

I saw some threads on CVN about swapping standard CV driveshafts For police driveshafts and they insist all you have to do is change the tail housing to relocate the tail shaft bushing and all will be fine, but I seriously disagree.

I figured I had 3 options:

1. Pull the trans and swap out the tailshaft and tail housing. Meaning the whole trans needs to be basically rebuilt. I never tore one apart, it works great, and I have trust issues with allowing someone I don't do it. They could easily put inferior parts back in it and I would never know. I had one rebuilt at a cost of over $2300.00. I rejected this option.

2. Order a custom made Dynotech Driveshaft that's 1" longer. Due to the fact I have 4.30 gears and a cost north of $500.00, I rejected this option.

3. I chose to have a custom 1" spacer machined. I also decided to do the forced tail housing bushing mod because of the 4.30 gears and my bushing was really beat up and scored. *It turned out great, my vibrations are gone, my shifts are way smoother because the yoke isn't binding anymore. Here are some pics.

http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/73e1fcd0.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/e6cef6e1.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/741d55c0.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/f2d58cf2.jpg
http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b335/Witman40/5c44d574.jpg

[MOTOWN]

Good info bud!