Pulling the Engine & Transmission out the Bottom

[FF1077]

Hello all.

I am pulling the engine and transmission out of my Marauder. I have the helms manual and was going to follow its directions. It’s sitting on a lift at a friend’s house and we started talking about taking everything out the bottom rather than the traditional way. We’ve done it on XR4Ti’s by dropping the cross member with the struts and everything still attached. Raise the car on the hoist and wheel the engine out. Cuts hours off the job doing it that way.

I searched for any posts about anyone having done it and people mention it, but there are no details.
So my question is can it even be done on the Marauder and what do I need to know to do it?
I welcome any and all advice.
Thanks in advance.

[SGT_MERC]

I thought engines could be removed from the bottom only on sub frame vehicles, not full frame. I might be wrong. Would the heads even clear the frame? Inquiring minds want to know.

[RacerX]

I don't see that saving any time realistically. You have to remove the wheels, brake calipers, crossmember brackets, stabilizer bar links, tie rod ends... Don't forget to get an alignment when it's all back together!

[FordNut]

One member tried it, then after pulling the crossmember found that the heads woudn't fit between the frame rails.

[03sport007]

If you don't mind me asking why are you pulling the engine and trans?

[Blackmobile]

We had a member down here pull the body off the frame, but then he disappeared. Guess it's a Bermuda Triangle thingy.

[lji372]

Just take the heads off before you drop it. If there's a will there's a way.

[RacerX]

Just take the heads off before you drop it. If there's a will there's a way.
Through the bottom is a harder, more work involved way. ;)

[LANDY]

Pull the motor from the top then take care of the rest. I have done it couple times its not hard

[FF1077]

The reason I am changing the engine.
On my way to work one day in stop and go traffic and it feels like I ran over a piece of truck tire or something like that. No CEL and everything seems fine. I’m almost to my off ramp, stopped in traffic and the car dies. I start it back up and take my off ramp, stop at the red light at the end of the off ramp and it dies again. Still no CEL or anything. I turn it over and it cranks slow like the battery is drained. It’s a new battery. So I wait a minute or so and try again. It starts up and I put it in gear and go. ¼ mile later I pull into the parking lot at my work and the Engine dies again. This time it does the same slow crank and then eventually starts, but it isn’t running right. It feels like it is firing on 7 cylinders. I turn it off, pop the hood and look at the engine. The car had a prelubber system with a tank that for the engine oil. Well the tank had burst and there is oil all over the driver side inner fender. All the oil in the engine it turns out. There is a two inch split ¾ the way up the tank. I am assuming that the tank exploding was me feeling like I ran over something. Now if the tank would have blown out the other side it would have gotten on the headers and then I would have know there is a problem. I wrongly assumed there was a low oil pressure light or the CEL would go off. Now I know I am wrong.
I did a compression check and the numbers were sad.

1 70
2 40
3 0
4 90
5 200
6 120
7 190
8 120
The reason I am replacing the transmission is mine started slipping. But oddly enough it happened mostly when I was turning right from a dead stop. It would do it going straight, but not as much as turning right. Fluid level was where it needed to be as that was my first thought.
I looked at the cost of tearing the engine down to find the problem and repair it vs getting a new/used engine and swapping it out. My initial plan was to pull the engine and if the block was shot go with an aluminator when I could afford it. I ended up finding a engine and transmission out of a Marauder with 48K by sheer luck. The price included the Engine and Transmission, I couldn’t pass it up.

[RacerX]

Pull the engine from the top and the tranny from the bottom. Easy.

[babbage]

So basically it ran out of oil? I'd try and pull the engine and transmission in one chunk.

[Blackmobile]

Pull the engine from the top and the tranny from the bottom. Easy.

Best way to do it. :up:

[03sport007]

The reason I am changing the engine.
On my way to work one day in stop and go traffic and it feels like I ran over a piece of truck tire or something like that. No CEL and everything seems fine. I’m almost to my off ramp, stopped in traffic and the car dies. I start it back up and take my off ramp, stop at the red light at the end of the off ramp and it dies again. Still no CEL or anything. I turn it over and it cranks slow like the battery is drained. It’s a new battery. So I wait a minute or so and try again. It starts up and I put it in gear and go. ¼ mile later I pull into the parking lot at my work and the Engine dies again. This time it does the same slow crank and then eventually starts, but it isn’t running right. It feels like it is firing on 7 cylinders. I turn it off, pop the hood and look at the engine. The car had a prelubber system with a tank that for the engine oil. Well the tank had burst and there is oil all over the driver side inner fender. All the oil in the engine it turns out. There is a two inch split ¾ the way up the tank. I am assuming that the tank exploding was me feeling like I ran over something. Now if the tank would have blown out the other side it would have gotten on the headers and then I would have know there is a problem. I wrongly assumed there was a low oil pressure light or the CEL would go off. Now I know I am wrong.
I did a compression check and the numbers were sad.

1 70
2 40
3 0
4 90
5 200
6 120
7 190
8 120
The reason I am replacing the transmission is mine started slipping. But oddly enough it happened mostly when I was turning right from a dead stop. It would do it going straight, but not as much as turning right. Fluid level was where it needed to be as that was my first thought.
I looked at the cost of tearing the engine down to find the problem and repair it vs getting a new/used engine and swapping it out. My initial plan was to pull the engine and if the block was shot go with an aluminator when I could afford it. I ended up finding a engine and transmission out of a Marauder with 48K by sheer luck. The price included the Engine and Transmission, I couldn’t pass it up.

Man that sucks!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I was hoping you were planning on a major upgrade and then maybe I could purchase you current motor.

I’m getting proficient at taking out and installing transmissions in my Marauder so if you need a hand let me know.

[Hadamustang1]

Bummer.. but what was this pre luber thing you are talking about.. never heard of it?

[FF1077]

The pre luber lets you run oil through the engine before you start it.

[Hadamustang1]

The pre luber lets you run oil through the engine before you start it.


again.. bummer.. I guess it just ran the oil right out of the engine.. Good luck on the rebuild..

[99SVT]

Pull it all out the top in one go if you can. It'll save a lot of fiddling with starter bolts and torque convertor/bellhousing bolts.

Make sure you have a shop crane that'll go high and reach far enough and a sling with a leveling bar. You'll have piles of room if you pull the cowl and radiator. The hardest part will be removing the trans crossmember.

[FF1077]

The hardest part will be removing the trans crossmember.

I was looking at that crossmember. It appears that the emergency brake cable goes through a bracket that is part of the cross member. Is that right?
Im wondering if I have to unhook the cable or if I can just let it hang there.

[03sport007]

I was looking at that crossmember. It appears that the emergency brake cable goes through a bracket that is part of the cross member. Is that right?
Im wondering if I have to unhook the cable or if I can just let it hang there.

I just let mine hang there. Really wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was removing the crossmember itself. I used a tire iron and spent about 30min wiggling it out. The nuts are welded on so remove the bolts. I left one bolt in so it would piviot or swing down. Do a search over CVN there is more info on removing the crossmember. It really wasn't that bad. Good luck!!!!

I don't mean to add insult to injury but it's ironic that the very thing that caused your engine failure was designed to pro-long it. Again that just sucks. Sorry.

[FF1077]

I just let mine hang there. Really wasn't that difficult. The hardest part was removing the crossmember itself. I used a tire iron and spent about 30min wiggling it out. The nuts are welded on so remove the bolts. I left one bolt in so it would piviot or swing down. Do a search over CVN there is more info on removing the crossmember. It really wasn't that bad. Good luck!!!!

I don't mean to add insult to injury but it's ironic that the very thing that caused your engine failure was designed to pro-long it. Again that just sucks. Sorry.

Im still waiting from my membership to be approved over at CVN.
Letting the crossmember pivot off that last bolt is a great idea.

Yeah the best part is when the company the makes the system was contacted they blamed me for the failure. The kit has a lifetime warranty, which is very vauge and it ultimetly comes down to the warranty is on the kit only. They even tried to tell me the kit is not meant to be used on a daily driver.
There are two problems with that;
A. My car has 35K miles and the kits been on there for six years.
B. Their own website advertises the kit for use on Farm Equipment.

They dont want to come out and accept any liablity and I can get that. Someone may come back and say you need to buy me a new $10K motor.
They havent even offered to replace the kit. I am going to contact them one more time and if they dont honor their warranty I am going to let everyone I know on the Comet, Merkur, Mustang, SVO, and Marauder sites to watch out for these people.

[03sport007]

Not sure what you are planning on using for a transmission jack but this worked well for me.

http://i1084.photobucket.com/albums/j414/03sport007/photo-50.jpg

Its a rotor from an Audi A6. The hump from our transmission fits perfectly and there is a enough surface area to balance the transmission. When are you making the transplant?

[FF1077]

So I worked on the car this weekend.
It was decided to take the engine out first and then the transmission to save doing any damage to the car.

I am stuck at the starter. I can’t get the top bolt out. With the Kooks I can barely get my hand in there. I was able to get a 10mm wrench on it but I didn’t have enough room to turn it. I’m wondering if I need to take the header off, but looking at it the middle two nuts for that are virtually hidden. So I don’t know if that’s a great idea.

I’m thinking that maybe I need to get some universals to reach the top starter bolt?
What did you use to get that bolt out?
Can I run the starter without that top bolt?

[RacerX]

It's a beotch, but, I've done it a few times. Just this past Saturday actually. Just pulled my engine again. I use a 10mm socket on a universal swivel on a 6" extension. It's real tricky, but, it can be done. Don't run it with just two. The two easy bolts are on the same side and you're asking for trouble. :beer:

[99SVT]

Same here, I just put my starter in this weekend while reinstalling the transmission. Just use a 1/4" drive 6" extension from the front of the starter, you might have to disconnect the trans cooler line bracket just behind the motor mount and bend it out of the way to make some room in there. When I pull the motor I just tie the starter to the header so it doesn't fall out, then remove it while everything is out of the car.

[babbage]

I am stuck at the starter. I can’t get the top bolt out. With the Kooks I can barely get my hand in there. I was able to get a 10mm wrench on it but I didn’t have enough room to turn it.


I used a 10mm gear wrench, (with the head that pivots) that way you can do 60 1/4 turns and get it out. ;) Or use a swivel/wobble extension that lets you go plus or minus 15 degrees like Racerx said

[massacre]

I gotta say, with no A/C compressor it's pretty easy to get to that bolt on my car lol.

[FF1077]

I take it that these are all on cars with LT headers?

[99SVT]

I take it that these are all on cars with LT headers?

Correct, mostly those with Kooks, as the SW headers have a bit more room around the starter.

[justbob]

Correct, mostly those with Kooks, as the SW headers have a bit more room around the starter.

I have PLENTY of room with my MAC's! :D

[JimmyXR7]

The reason I am changing the engine.
On my way to work one day in stop and go traffic and it feels like I ran over a piece of truck tire or something like that. No CEL and everything seems fine. I’m almost to my off ramp, stopped in traffic and the car dies. . . . It feels like it is firing on 7 cylinders. I turn it off, pop the hood and look at the engine. . . .I did a compression check and the numbers were sad.
1 70
2 40
3 0
4 90
5 200
6 120
7 190
8 120
. . .I ended up finding a engine and transmission out of a Marauder with 48K by sheer luck. The price included the Engine and Transmission, I couldn’t pass it up.
Sounds like the right move to get the 48K engine and trans.
Back in the day my dad had a auto machine shop in Campbell and built up motors that went up to Fremont Drag strip. My experience says that your motor threw a rod in the #3 cylinder. The rod likely messed up the crankshaft and sent the piston into the valves. Sometimes the crankshaft can be re-ground. The combustion chamber on the #3 cylinder head may have damage, too. The other head is probably in good shape and reusable. Jim

[03mmmonroe]

Correct, mostly those with Kooks, as the SW headers have a bit more room around the starter.

The SW are great no problem getting to the top bolt. Just did it last night due to transmission had to come out.

Russ

[FF1077]

Self thread hijack-
Those with the Kooks, do you have the traditional 3 bolt flange? I bought my car with the headers installed by the previous owner. I am going to be putting cutouts in once the engine is swapped. I got some pictures from JustBob (thanks!) of his setup and am going to do something identical to his. I was Looking on the Kooks site for a flange and from what I found the Kooks for the Marauder have the ball with two bolts style collector.

[babbage]

Cut out plan sounds awesome. Wheres the pix??

[99SVT]

I found the Kooks for the Marauder have the ball with two bolts style collector.

That is correct, that's how they mount the pipes on the collectors

[cougar9150]

Self thread hijack-
Those with the Kooks, do you have the traditional 3 bolt flange? I bought my car with the headers installed by the previous owner. I am going to be putting cutouts in once the engine is swapped. I got some pictures from JustBob (thanks!) of his setup and am going to do something identical to his. I was Looking on the Kooks site for a flange and from what I found the Kooks for the Marauder have the ball with two bolts style collector.


That is correct, that's how they mount the pipes on the collectors

Mine have the traditional triangular 3 bolt flange but I wish it was the ball style.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk

[FF1077]

Mine have the traditional triangular 3 bolt flange but I wish it was the ball style.

I wonder why ours are different?

[FordNut]

I have the 3 bolt flanges. All of the early ones have that style. The newer ones have the ball type. I think you can special order new ones and specify the 3 bolt style if you want.

[justbob]

Cut out plan sounds awesome. Wheres the pix??

As you wish.
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6f50-724b.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6f8f-0dc2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6fb5-bc58.jpg

[babbage]

As you wish.
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6f50-724b.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6f8f-0dc2.jpg
http://img.tapatalk.com/aefd1682-6fb5-bc58.jpg

Oooh nice me likey! Heh-heh. Thread hijacked! Any track results??

[FF1077]

I decided to get serious. If I cant get the starter bolt out with one of these I am screwed. LOL.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Wrenches.JPG

[03sport007]

I decided to get serious. If I cant get the starter bolt out with one of these I am screwed. LOL.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Wrenches.JPG

Good luck!!!!! Sucks when a project gets held up by something so silly.

[Paul T. Casey]

Just did a trans swap in January, and I feel your pain on the starter bolt. The short wrench you bought should do the trick, just plan on barely swinging it for 15 or so minutes. IIRC, when the dealership replaced my head after the spark plug blowout in 2004, they removed the engine through the bottom. At least that's what they told me.

[FF1077]

So I attacked the starter bolt again this past weekend.
This first thing I tried was this.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Picture_005.JPG (http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/21069)

With this it took me about a minute and a half to get the bolt out. The hardest part was getting the 10MM Universal Socket on the bolt. After that I broke it free and out it came.

Now I am stuck on the top passenger side trans to motor bolt. There is a bracket on it that keeps me from getting it with a 13MM Universal. Going from the top is just as bad. The rear cooling mod leaves the hoses in the way and I will need a flexible 13MM racheting wrench to get to it I think. I was tired and not thinking properly when I walked away from it. What I should have done (and will probably try) is to loosen the motor mounts and then pull out the transmission cross member and let the whole thing tip back and inch or two and then I should be able to get on the bolt.

Following the factory manual it has me removing the windshield wipers and cowl cover, but I can’t figure out why. Is that something that had to be done prior to the care being Trilogized? I did it any just in case.

[03sport007]

I removed the cowling and could easily access the 2 top transmission bolts with an open end wrench. It took a while going a quarter turn at a time. Good Luck!!!!

[RacerX]

Yeah, I found removing the wiper cowl makes things a lot easier! The back of the engine will bump into it when you pull it too.

[justbob]

Oooh nice me likey! Heh-heh. Thread hijacked! Any track results??
Not tuned for them yet, so actually a LOT slower! Just fun in traffic making people really wonder WTF?

End hijack.

[FF1077]

The steps I have are


Removal

1. Remove the hood.
2. Disconnect the battery cables. For additional information, refer to Section 414-01 .
3. Remove the air cleaner outlet tube. For additional information, refer to Section 303-12 .
4. Remove the accessory drive belt. For additional information, refer to Section 303-05 .
5. Drain the engine cooling system. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
6. Remove the cooling fan motor and shroud assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 303-03 .
7. Remove the wiper mounting arm and pivot shaft. For additional information, refer to Section 501-16 .
8. Remove the support bracket.

9. Remove the engine ground strap.
10. Disconnect the electrical connectors.
11. Remove the electrical connection cover.
12. Disconnect the power distribution power supply electrical connector.
13. Disconnect the ground wire.
14. Disconnect the A/C high pressure switch electrical connector.
15. Disconnect the A/C low charge protection switch electrical connector.
16. Disconnect the fuel hose spring lock coupling. For additional information, refer to Section 310-00A .
17. Remove the accelerator controls splash shield.

I didnt do step 7. It seemed pointless to take that out.
I love and hate having the car at my frineds shop. Love having it out of the elemants and on a lift. Hate not being able to look at it and figure out what im goign to do the next time I am able to work on it.

[FF1077]

Not tuned for them yet, so actually a LOT slower! Just fun in traffic making people really wonder WTF?

End hijack.


That would be one heck of a site to see!!
I decide to challenge the Marauder next to me with the open exhaust.
Waiting for the light to go green and the Marauder gets noticeably quieter.
Light goes green and it’s gone like a rocket. WTF??
That would be the anti sleeper.

I can’t wait. LOL.

[babbage]

Did you get top trans bolt out? I had the cross member off, and shaft pulled then trans will hang down - making it easier to reach the top bolts from underneah.

[FF1077]

No I havent yet. I am single parent with a special needs daughter so I have to have someone take care of her when I go work on the Marauder. Her mother has visitation, but doesnt take her as much as she used to which is fine with me, I enjoy every second I get to spend with her.

I am hopefully going to work on it the weekend of the 21st. I think then I am going to do just what you suggested and let the whole assemble tilt back a bit. Maybe if I real productive I will get the engine out and the other one ready to go back in. That would be sweet.

[babbage]

Hey thats cool. Kudos to you, with taking care of family etc. I know what you mean.

Careful when you pull the x-member, and undo the last bolt, support it and let it come down slowly, just to be safe. It should drop a good 12 inches at the end of tailshaft. Then get 3 extensions and you can hit the top 13 from under. You should unbolt the tc from the flywheel first if you can.

[03sport007]

No I havent yet. I am single parent with a special needs daughter so I have to have someone take care of her when I go work on the Marauder. Her mother has visitation, but doesnt take her as much as she used to which is fine with me, I enjoy every second I get to spend with her.

I am hopefully going to work on it the weekend of the 21st. I think then I am going to do just what you suggested and let the whole assemble tilt back a bit. Maybe if I real productive I will get the engine out and the other one ready to go back in. That would be sweet.

Be careful. Not sure how the trilogy is set up but I had a lot of stuff that would have hit the cowling if I let transmission drop.

[babbage]

Be careful. Not sure how the trilogy is set up but I had a lot of stuff that would have hit the cowling if I let transmission drop.

I don't have a trilogy either, but didn't have any problem letting the tailshaft end drop down slowly. Nothing hit my wiper cowl that I'm aware of.

[massacre]

I bet if you remove the cowl you can get at that top bolt from the top.

Cowl is just 5-6 bolts and a couple electrical connections/windshield washer hoses.

[FF1077]

Be careful. Not sure how the trilogy is set up but I had a lot of stuff that would have hit the cowling if I let transmission drop.

I have the S/C un bolted and out of the car, so there shouldnt be anything in the way when it tips back. But thanks for this tip because I probably wouldnt have thought of it and checked. Now I will.

I will have to look closer at the cowl. It didnt look like it was going to be that simple to remove. Of course I dont want to damage it when I pull the motor.
Someone suggested taking the radiator out to allow the engine to come forward more rather than remove the cowl.

[99SVT]

The lower cowl comes off easy. A few bolts, elect plug and washer hose. The top 2 bellhousing bolts become very easy to do and you can pretty much pull the motor straight up once it clears the trans.

Sent from my LT15a using Tapatalk 2

[03sport007]

I have the S/C un bolted and out of the car, so there shouldnt be anything in the way when it tips back. But thanks for this tip because I probably wouldnt have thought of it and checked. Now I will.

I will have to look closer at the cowl. It didnt look like it was going to be that simple to remove. Of course I dont want to damage it when I pull the motor.
Someone suggested taking the radiator out to allow the engine to come forward more rather than remove the cowl.

I thought the samething when JustBob suggested I take mine off. I looked at it and said no way. Then when I was were you are trying to get the top two transmission bolts off I looked again. The hardest part was removing the wipers. When I removed my transmission the 2nd time it took 5min tops to remove the cowling. Really opens things up and makes those top two bolts easy peasy. Good luck

[FF1077]

I wish I would have taken pictures of that top bolt.
I can see it and I can try to reach it, but with the rear cooling mod there is a blue silicone hose that goes right throughg there. So between that hose and the firewall there isnt a lot of room. Getting that hose off would be a real *****. I know its not that old, but I think I might replace that hose anyway because I think the work it would take to replace it in the future would be worth the expense of doing it now and and going a couple of years longer than the age of the hose now.

I think with what I have learned from all of you so far my next session will be MUCH more productive.

[babbage]

Is yours tapped in the back of the block or the top two freeze plugs at the top side of the heads?

[FF1077]

I got to work on the car on Sunday and it was a very productive day. I took the cross member out (using a slide hammer) and the transmission dipped down a few inches and it took a minute or two to get on the bolt and take it out. What I thought was a useless bracket is actually the bracket for the transmission dip stick tube and holds the connectors for the transmission wiring harness. With the Trilogy and the location of the dip stick I had already decided to use a Lokar setup when I put it back together to put the dipstick someplace where I won’t mangle my hand checking the fluid level. When I put it back together I will have to see about cutting the dipstick tube off the bracket.
Went to pull the transmission and it came out super easy, but that thing weighs a ton!!! My buddy and I did a controlled drop off his transmission jack (it’s a homemade setup and sits about 4 feet off the ground when all the way down) down to the floor.
The engine came out with the headers still attached, but it was a bit tricky. We used a leveler to pick the front up and clear the motor mounts wich allowed the back to stay dowm without bring the headers up into the A/C box and Master Cylinder. Then we brought it forward and up. I did have to unbolt the steering shaft so I could move the motor over and allow the passenger side header to clear the A/C box. We tilted it forward a bit then and then up and out it came. I was out of time and had to pick up my daughter so it sits waiting for the next time I can get to it.

Now in the mean time I need to get the gaskets for the lower intake, upper intake and maybe the headers. I haven’t looked to see what people are doing with the Kooks. What gasket (if any) are people using? I do NOT want a leak. I need to get new plugs as well. There are a couple of heater hoses I am going to replace while I have the engine out. Trying to think of what else I can/should to with the engine bay open. Other than all the oil from when the pre lubber exploded the bay is really clean.

[FF1077]

Is yours tapped in the back of the block or the top two freeze plugs at the top side of the heads?


Missed that question before. Mine is in the back of the heads.

[FF1077]

I’ve made some more progress on the car. Between work and spending time with my Daughter I wasn’t really able to work on it till this last weekend. I got everything all swapped over and I reused the intake gaskets. I am thinking that I will reuse the exhaust manifold gaskets as well. I only ran into one problem Exhaust Manifold Studs.


I lubed up the studs on both motors many, many times over the last few weeks. On my old motor only two came out with the nut. On the new motor every single one of them came out.
Also anyone who has installed Kooks headers with the engine in the car, you are amazing.
Even with the engine free and clear of the engine bay it was a PITA to get a couple of the nuts off. Also a stud on each side had to be cut down to allow the nut to be threaded on as well as not hitting the header. I can’t imagine how frustrating and time consuming that had to have been. Anyway, Exhaust Bolts/Exhaust Studs. I’ve ordered new nuts and studs from Ford. My question is do I need to put loctite or anything on the studs going into the head before putting them in? How would be the best way to get them into the head and keeping them there? I thought about using two nuts, one butted against the other and running it into the head but my fear is not getting the stud secured and it backing out when I try to take the nuts off. Maybe I’m over thinking the entire situation.

Next step is to get the engine and transmission into the car. From what I have read you need to get the tail shaft as vertical as possible prior to putting it in.

Hopefully I will have a chance to work on it again soon.

[03sport007]

No experience with kooks sorry. Good luck getting her back together!!!!

[justbob]

The exact stud and locking nut combo can be bought in the exhaust isle at Advanced auto in packs of 10.

I just put some never seize on them and use two normal non locking nuts to install. I personally only walk a locking nut on once, once off it goes in the garbage. Can it be used? Sure, but not on anything leaving my garage.

Other than that, no other means of lock tight needed.

Side note, my exhaust gaskets were pretty ratty, but I gambled with spraying them with copper sealant and won.

Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk 2

[tom blahous]

Hey check out these tools comes in handy worth every cent, thought the qtr inch would break for sure,not yet!! tite-reach.com

[FF1077]

Hey check out these tools comes in handy worth every cent, thought the qtr inch would break for sure,not yet!! tite-reach.com

That is a interesting little tool! I can think of a few times that would have come in handy. Ill have to get one when I have the cash.

[FF1077]

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

After a long internal debate I decided that I want to replace the exhaust manifold gaskets. The old ones don’t look that great and I would kick myself for weeks if I had to replace one of them with the engine in the car after just having had it out. So I called my local Ford dealer and told them what I need. There are a few different gaskets listed for the Marauder. Something about was the car made before or after 11/3/03. I don’t have the info on the build date for my car with me and for the engine I am putting in, I have no idea when it was built. I did notice that the back of the heads were different. (No camera at the time to take pictures with.) From what I could gather it basically comes down to a one piece or two piece gaskets for the driver’s side. The dealer has the two piece gaskets in stock. If I want the single piece gasket I have to order it and to order it I have to go in there. They want it paid for in advance and wont take card info over the phone. Problem is they are open the same hours I work and I would have to wait till Saturday to go in. I want to put the engine in the car this Saturday as well so I can’t wait. They will have the two piece drivers side & single piece passenger side waiting for me in will call.

My question is this, does it matter what Ford gaskets I use as long as they are for a Marauder?

[babbage]

Exhaust Manifold Gaskets

My question is this, does it matter what Ford gaskets I use as long as they are for a Marauder?

Gaskets need to be for a mach 1 or MM, 4v 4.6. Old ones unless severly rusted will be fine. Bring old one to parts counter if you are going new, about $50. I'd be more concerned with getting all new studs and nuts, or stage 8 bolts.

[FF1077]

Some pictures of the bags the parts that I needed came in.


Water Inlet Adapter Gasket 1
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Water_Inlet_Adapter_Gasket_1.j pg

Passenger Side Exhaust Manifold Gasket
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Driver_Side_Exhaust_Manifold_G asket.jpg
Water Inlet Adapter Gasket 2
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Water_Inlet_Adapter_Gasket_2.j pg
Water Inlet Pipe O Rings
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Water_Inlet_Pipe_O_Rings.jpg

Exhaust Manifold Studs
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Exhaust_Manifold_Studs.jpg


Exhaust Manifold Nuts
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Exhaust_Manifold_Nuts.jpg

Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold Gaskets
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/gallery/data/500/medium/Drivers_Side_Exhaust_Manifold_ Gaskets.jpg


I got the engine back in with the transmission attached and it was a lot easier than I thought it would be.
I had the whole assembly at I would guess 135 degree angle and started lowering it down, then move it back, then down, then back, etc.
Once the front of the engine would clear the radiator it was a matter of getting the passenger side header to fit between the A/C box and the frame rail. I used a leveler and that enabled me to change the angle of the assembly once I had the assembly back in and almost against the firewall.
I did remove the steering linkage so I could have room to move it side to side as needed.
I would say it took me longer to pull the engine by itself than it did to put the engine and trans back in. It was nowhere near as bad as I was thinking it would be.

[babbage]

Good Job- hope it goes back together smoothly for you.

[03sport007]

Good luck!!!!!! I hope

[FF1077]

Thanks, I think I will need it.
My big concern at this point is getting all the vaccuum, PVC, and other assorted hoses connected back togehter to the correct locations.
I had pictures but lost them when my phone bit the dust.

[FF1077]

I got the S/C, the inlet and the water adapter outlet all in. I also got the accessories bolted up and the accessory belt routed and tensioned down. I’m waiting to route the S/C belt because I’m going to replace the bolts for the crankshaft pulley (ones I have are really rusty) and have to go back and put blue loctite on the water outlet adapter bolts, and S/C belt tensioner bolts.

Like I thought I got stuck on all the vacuum lines. The previous owner of my car put in a catch can system and I think I have that hooked up right (only one way it could go really from what I can tell). One section of line that was made up to go to the EGR Vaccum cluster and the bypass actuator had connecters that were cracked and literally falling apart. I am going to go to the FLA and get the materials to remake the entire hose. I still have two open ports with nothing attached. One at the inlet tube and one on the back of the supercharger.

The negative. I went to put the starter in and was having a hard time remembering how it came out so I could feed it in the same way. I had tried it a few different ways when Captain Fumble Fingers here lost his grip on the starter. It fell and I instinctively tried to stop it from hitting the concrete and since it was out of my grasp I stuck my leg out to try and slow the fall. Bad bad bad. The starter bounced off my knee, onto my toes, bounced, and THEN hit the floor. It broke in two places, the solenoid spinning across the floor while I was cursing and hopping around like an idiot.
If you ever broken a toe, you know how I feel right now. I am sure it was quite comical to watch.
The starter is totaled, not even able to be used as a core. So that halted my progress for the day. I ordered a replacement starter from Rock Auto and will install it next go round.

Question 1: I am going to install a transmission temperature gauge.
What is more important to monitor, the temp going into or out of the transmission?
Which line is which?

Question 2: I have read a bit about the PCV in relation to the Trilogy. Some say its fine on its own and others say no. As I understand it the Cobra uses a PCV that closes under boost. On my SVO and XR4Ti the PCV closed under boost (15+LBS) and if the PCV was bad you could end up with oil blowing out the dipstick tube. We actually used a one way check valve out of a Mazda’s Brake Master Cylinder vacuum line because it sealed better than the PVC’s you could buy. You blow into one of the PCV’s to be sure it sealed and very few actually did. The Mazda valve never failed to seal. Anyway.
So boost in the engine seems like a bad thing to me. I am sure there is a reason Trilogy does it as they do, I just don’t know why and am curious if it would be good to change to the Cobra PVC or would it be bad? I looked through the archives and didn’t really see why.
I’m running the “stock” pulley and have no plan to change it. I’m just curious what others think about this or what they have done.

[sailsmen]

Look at post #7.
http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71238

[babbage]

Measure trans temp from the PCM, aeroforce or Scanguage II - is more accurate than a boss in the pan. Get an extra cooler (long) and run it in series with factory cooler with another thermal bypass, if worried about trans temps.

[03sport007]

Sorry about the starter and your toe that sucks. I did laugh a little as I read it could see myself doing the same thing.

I'm running a Eaton swap so probably not much help. But I'm using a cobra PCV valve routed pre-boost and seems to be working good.

Running a actual trams temp gauge seems like a lot of work I would recommend a Aeroforce. I love all the stuff they can do...very cool and easy peasy.

Good Luck.

Think you'll every go to PIR when your done?

I went once last year and my slow time was the primary reason I did the Eaton Swap. The ironic thing is after my trany blew I've been a little gun shy and haven't gone back to see what she'll do boosted.

[FF1077]

I am going to go with the Aeroforce gauge at some point.
The trans temp gauge is more for show.
I have 7 gauge spots to fill and with the trans temp and a aeroforce gauge I will be at 6. I’m not sure what I am going to put in the 7th spot.

Im not sure if I will go to PIR or not. This whole experience has been expensive and time consuming. I’d hate to blow an engine or trans at PIR.

I did read that thread and then I read a thread on Motor City Marauders where someone asked the PVC question and another question and the PVC question didn’t get answered. I have faith that Trilogy knows what they are doing though.
Here is a how i will be installing my trans temp gauge. I’m only going to do one though.

http://www.motorcitymarauders.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8794&highlight=TEMPERATURE+GAUGE&page=2

[03sport007]

I can't invision where you have 7 gauges to fill? I see three in your sig. Where are the other 4?

[FF1077]

I can't invision where you have 7 gauges to fill? I see three in your sig. Where are the other 4?

I have a intercooler fluid temperature gauge in a pod on the column and then I have a 3 gauge pod pillar.
I’m going to move the boost gauge to the pillar and the trans temp will go in its place. I am SERIOUSLY thinking about moving the oil pressure gauge up to the pillar or even adding in a second one. The third spot will be for a Aeroforce gauge.

If I don’t run the two oil gauges, I need to figure out what to put in that last space.

[03sport007]

Remembering why this thread started I can see why you're pernoid about oil pressure. Should look cool!!! Post some pics when your done.