Anti-seize for spark plugs...

[a_d_a_m]

I'm about to attempt to change my spark plugs...

I've heard enough cautionary tales on this site that I'm more scared about this job than I oughta be.

How much anti seize should I be using? I do not want to put too much on and accidentally overtorque the plugs, conversely I do not want to not put enough on and screw myself on the other side.


I'm kind of scared to see what comes out; these are Densos that were installed by the original owner (so they're from before '08 :eek:)!

[Phrog_gunner]

Just put a tiny dab on your fingertip and spread it around on the threads. If there's so much that it covers the peaks of the thread (as opposed to the valley) then that is too much. A little goes a long way.

[a_d_a_m]

THANK YOU!
Now hopefully I haven't waited too long on this job.

[Siege]

Without beginning another huge anti-seize/no anti-seize debate I thought I would add my thoughts.

I did a lot of research on this topic here and at svtperformance. I ultimately decided to not use anti-seize for the following reasons:

1. Anti-seize is not used by the factory and all of my plugs came out easily after 100K miles.

2. Anti-seize affects the torque reading making it very easy to over-torque the spark plugs.

3. NGK spark plugs have a special coating on them that acts as a barrier between the plug and head preventing corrosion. This coating is also designed to flake away upon removal so the plug does not seize in the head.

Most of my research showed that the most common failure mode was plugs coming loose and the cylinder pressure acting as a hammer on the plugs until the threads were eventually pulled out of the head and the spark plug ejected.

I don't know if anti-seize was the cause of the plugs loosening but I erred on the side of caution.

:beer:

[88LTDCV351]

I was deathly afraid on mine also but I did mine and it turned out ok. No plug ejection yet at 25,000 miles on them. remember that the engine needs to be cold also.

[a_d_a_m]

.....my understanding is that the coils are supposed to click on and off of the plugs.
mine are just sliding on/off with no click. ???????

[marauder21]

This thread might help...I been thinking of changing the spark plugs as well..What should I be careful with?...my car has 23888 miles the sparks were changed in 08 by previous owner he used the original plugs. What You guy think? Worth changing them or not...?

[Phrog_gunner]

1. Anti-seize is not used by the factory and all of my plugs came out easily after 100K miles.

Maybe someone with a REAL shop manual can see if it recommends anti seize?? That could be an easy solution to the discussion.

[a_d_a_m]

At this point i'm more concerned about the coils.

[Phrog_gunner]

Factory springs, or GMS connectors?

[prchrman]

I never put anti s on plugs or lugs.

[Got_1]

factory coils make no sound at all when installing or removing.
also anti seize is totally up to the installer. i am a Ford technician and i change plugs all the time. by the time you are ready to change the plugs again the anti seize will be long gone so IMO, i don't use it.

[Siege]

Maybe someone with a REAL shop manual can see if it recommends anti seize?? That could be an easy solution to the discussion.

I have a real 2003 service manual. It does not specify that anti-seize be used.

[Phrog_gunner]

I have a real 2003 service manual. It does not specify that anti-seize be used.

Well I guess that settles that.

[whitey]

i dont have a torque wrench, and i use anti-seize every time. its more of a feel thing....make sure the plugs are tight, but dont go ape **** on them....never had a problem in my numerous cars. i think that most of the horror stories you hear are from people that dont know how to use a wrench. don't be afraid to do anything, everything is fixable....just some more costly than others.

[blazen71]

remember that the engine needs to be cold also.

Very important with alum. heads

[tbone]

Without beginning another huge anti-seize/no anti-seize debate I thought I would add my thoughts.

I did a lot of research on this topic here and at svtperformance. I ultimately decided to not use anti-seize for the following reasons:

1. Anti-seize is not used by the factory and all of my plugs came out easily after 100K miles.

2. Anti-seize affects the torque reading making it very easy to over-torque the spark plugs.

3. NGK spark plugs have a special coating on them that acts as a barrier between the plug and head preventing corrosion. This coating is also designed to flake away upon removal so the plug does not seize in the head.

Most of my research showed that the most common failure mode was plugs coming loose and the cylinder pressure acting as a hammer on the plugs until the threads were eventually pulled out of the head and the spark plug ejected.

I don't know if anti-seize was the cause of the plugs loosening but I erred on the side of caution.

:beer:

I agree with this 1000%. But, I just changed the plugs in my MM and Town Car, and I put a dab on them anyway.;)

[tbone]

i dont have a torque wrench, its more of a feel thing....make sure the plugs are tight, but dont go ape **** on them....never had a problem in my numerous cars. I think that most of the horror stories you hear are from people that dont know how to use a wrench.

+1^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[RF Overlord]

Flying spark plugs are more often than not caused by over-tightening due to not using a torque wrench which damages the threads in the head. If you choose to use anti-seize, use VERY little and reduce the torque setting on your wrench by 10%.

[ctrlraven]

When I change my plugs I put a little dab of anti-seize on them, finger tighten and then use a regular ratchet driver to tighten them. I just always start and end in the same clock position on all of them so I know each one is about equal to the rest and no problems to date with them.

[Pat]

Here is a tutorial I made up. If you don't want to use the anti-sieze, then skip that step.

But I highly recommend a torque wrench, the values are small but very important, it's very easy to overtighten.

Rember cold engine.

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=71428&highlight=spark+plugs Post #12.

[a_d_a_m]

Well, it's done...

Thank you to all for your help and input - especially those who chimed in on the COPs not making noise - I just put it all back together with the help of a friend.

The #8 plug had oil in the spark plug hole; one of the grommets failed on the valve cover, so the spark plug job got a little more extensive...

https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/s720x720/431710_679158598951_39003984_3 3834342_2078518647_n.jpg

It's all back together, runs like a champ.

[Got_1]

the cyl head in that picture is right side which is cyl 1-4

[a_d_a_m]

Woops, thanks for clarifying.