Cant take it no more..towing her to an electrical shop!!

[Reek09]

Been having an issue with my car not starting. Changed the fuel pump and every fuse n switch related to it and still nothing. Then came to find out it wasn't the fuel pump after all after I already changed it. Tested the old pump and it came on..leads me to realize I have some sort of electrical problem going on. I'm not getting any power to the fpdm or the inertia switch. Even tried to give direct power to the pump from the wiring and still nothing. I've done all I can so I'm going to let the professionals take it from here..:bigcry::bigcry:

[lji372]

ahhhh!! that sucks!! hope it's something quick easy and especially cheap. good luck,let us know

[Reek09]

I'll keep u guys posted. But I doubt it will be a cheap fix when it comes to electrical problems. It's gotta be a wire messed up somewhere but no fuses are blown..I'm totally lost

[Mr. Man]

It will probably be easy and some cheap looking part that costs an arm and a leg.

Hope it all works out and you are Maraudering soon.:burnout:

[Spectragod]

Bad ignition switch?

[Reek09]

Nah I replaced the ignition switch last year sometime when I was having similar problems with starting. I got a hot wire coming from the fuse box under the hood to the ignition hot wire under the dash because for some reason I was losing power somewhere before the switch and it has to be related to that somehow. Either a module or something between the fuse box under the hood and the harness under the dash maybe..I'm guessing. Do we have some type of ignition control module? Is that basically what the PATS system is?

[Tnbigbody]

Bad ground sounds like to me does your starter kick at all? Make sure all the connectors to the computer are secure as well electrical is not hard to diagnose but is something that requires patience

[1 Bad Merc]

I had an electrical problem with my air conditioner not running. Hotwired it and it ran on full. Checked the fuses and everything seemed okay but I could not get it to cycle. Finally traced it down and found a broken wire inside one of the plugins. Would not have found it without checking for power and electric output. If you have a gauge check the wiring going into your plugs and check the output from the plugins.

This worked for me and I hope it helps you-good luck.

[Reek09]

It cranks fine the starter engages also but the fuel pump is not coming on when the key is in the on position. It's kinda weird because a few times it would start a little but idle rough and then shut back off and won't do it again. Checked for power at the inertia switch and fpdm and nothing. Then yesterday when me and a mechanic were working on it it wouldn't even crank again..nothing when I turned the key but it had just cranked a few minutes earlier. That's why I said I give up because too much strange stuff was going on.

[Reek09]

Anyone know of a good electrical shop I can tow my car to in the DMV area? I'm in Alexandria minutes from DC and MD.

[SID210SA]

There was a wire chaffing problem a while back....some where in the engine bay around the cowl I believe....dont know if it is related to your problem but has given members in the past some big headaches.

[Reek09]

I looked around for the spot where they said the chaffing was happening and didn't see anything clearly. Is it like really noticeable by just looking under there or do I have to remove something to see? The big bundles I see look pretty taped up with the black casing around them with stickers on them that says made in mexico

[FF1077]

Have you ruled out the PATS system?

Someone had similiar problems and it was suggested they try another key and it turned out to be just the key.

From what I have read the wire chaffing issue involves a lot of dash lights going on and off as well as lots of CEL codes.

I think 1 Bad Merc is on the right track.
Make sure all the connections are tight and then test them to make sure a wire isnt pulled out inside the connector. I have used a small sewing pin, the kind with the colored ball on the end, to pierce the wires. Hook up a aligator clip to the pin and the meter probe. Makes it real easy to test connections.
When you pull the pin out the holes will virtually seal themselves.

[bosscj72]

A friend of mine said the first thing to check on panther cars if they don't fire up is to flick the fuel pump switch in the trunk which turns off if you get rear ended. Just throw the switch on and off and on again and then crank it up.

The ground may also be the rascal too. I would put an additional ground from the battery terminal to the block.

Also does the headlights come on when cranking?

Good luck. Hope you can track it down.

Dave

[Reek09]

The PATS system may be related to my problem but, earlier this morning I was browsing around on rockauto when I came across the part "ignition control module" ICM. Wasn't aware we had one of these or where its located on the car. I dropped my car off at the shop yesterday to let them check it and I'm willing to bet that might be the problem. Because for some reason I couldn't get the fuel pump to come on even when giving it direct 12 voltz and its no power to the inertia switch or fpdm.

[Reek09]

Well talked to the shop about my car and they say they think my computer is bad and it will cost me like 1100 to get it fixed. He also said that may or may not fix the problem because he is having problems communicating with the computer

[CBT]

Well talked to the shop about my car and they say they think my computer is bad and it will cost me like 1100 to get it fixed. He also said that may or may not fix the problem because he is having problems communicating with the computer

WTF?! :eek:

[1stMerc]

Do you have the stock tune?

[RacerX]

Do you have the stock tune?
If there IS a problem with communication with the PCM, the last thing you want to do is load any tune. If it decides to not communicate in the middle of PCM reflash, cya!

[EMAS]

The PATS system may be related to my problem but, earlier this morning I was browsing around on rockauto when I came across the part "ignition control module" ICM. Wasn't aware we had one of these or where its located on the car. I dropped my car off at the shop yesterday to let them check it and I'm willing to bet that might be the problem. Because for some reason I couldn't get the fuel pump to come on even when giving it direct 12 voltz and its no power to the inertia switch or fpdm.

Don't be sucked in by Crockauto's worthless catalog system they often list stuff that has nothing to do with the car listed. The "ignition control module" was moved into the PCM on Fords a few years before the Marauder was dreamed up.

[1stMerc]

If there IS a problem with communication with the PCM, the last thing you want to do is load any tune. If it decides to not communicate in the middle of PCM reflash, cya!

I ask because a lot of folks had been having issues with pcm's not communicating because of tunes. Not to change it one way or the other.

[FF1077]

Whats going to cost $1100?

There are companies that will take your computer, fix it, then mail it back to you. Googel Rebuilt ECM

This place list used computers for $275 plus $50.00 core.

http://www.ecmdepot.com/ecms.php

This site lists a few for $131-$200
http://car-part.com/

[breeze]

Did u have anything electronicly installed. Had my radio put in and sometimes I know it doesn't wanna crank so I have to remote start it.

[Reek09]

All I have done is install a new head unit. And when I send it off to be rebuilt it still has to be programmed right? He said it will be about 1100 because of the initial diagnosis to find the problem..ECM he said would be like 600 and I guess the rest is the labor. I told him don't do anything else ill find my own computer and bring it to him and he says ill still be lookin at like 800. So I guess he is charging me a lot for programming and labor?? And I never put a tune on it unless the owner did before I got it.

[lji372]

Did you get a second opinion from a senior member. Lido or zack on another forum?

[1stMerc]

All I have done is install a new head unit. And when I send it off to be rebuilt it still has to be programmed right? He said it will be about 1100 because of the initial diagnosis to find the problem..ECM he said would be like 600 and I guess the rest is the labor. I told him don't do anything else ill find my own computer and bring it to him and he says ill still be lookin at like 800. So I guess he is charging me a lot for programming and labor?? And I never put a tune on it unless the owner did before I got it.

Yep, that's about what it cost me. Even then it was the revised version. So car has different strategy than other 04's thus xcal had to be reprogrammed for the new code. Had to get the keys reprogramed as well. Plus the time it took for him to drive cycle it to pass inspection.

Good luck,

[Reek09]

Man..so I guess I gotta bite the bullet on this one. What makes it so bad the guy at the shop tells me he is not sure if this will actually get my car to start. He says it might be another underlying problem after we get the new computer in..

[1stMerc]

Not necessarily, You may be able to find a cheaper route.
My problem was time and car being daily driver. November cold snap and near end of month to pass inspection.

You say it doesn't crank, does the dash light up? Was your problem all of a sudden or right after installing head unit? There are a few multi circuit fuses, so double check those. Not sure if there are any, but check for fusible links in the circuit.

[Spectragod]

Not necessarily, You may be able to find a cheaper route.
My problem was time and car being daily driver. November cold snap and near end of month to pass inspection.

You say it doesn't crank, does the dash light up? Was your problem all of a sudden or right after installing head unit? There are a few multi circuit fuses, so double check those. Not sure if there are any, but check for fusible links in the circuit.

The other thing to be looking at....... the VSS line that runs to the radio, runs to the same port that they are trying to read the computer from. I would say, unplug the radio, and see if you can either read the computer, or, see if the car will start. Past that, start verifying circuits.....

[FF1077]

You really need to go to this site http://car-part.com/ (http://car-part.com/) , look up you marauder, look up your computer (You need the part number off your old one) and call one of the junk yards, give them money and they will send you a used one.
There are multiple listings of ones under $250.00

I have bought a lot of parts this way and I JUST did this with a computer for my Ranger.
Cost me $70 shipped to my door. Had within a week, plugged it in and away I went.

What about taking your old one and asking someone to plug it into their marauder?

[Blackened300a]

Man..so I guess I gotta bite the bullet on this one. What makes it so bad the guy at the shop tells me he is not sure if this will actually get my car to start. He says it might be another underlying problem after we get the new computer in..

It's sounding like a chaffed wire harness. My uncles vette had the same issues where the computer wouldn't comunicate with the scanner. After 2 computers we found wires rubbed through in the harness. After fixkng the connections it was fine. I would hate to see you spend your money and this wasn't the solution.

[Mr. Man]

It's sounding like a chaffed wire harness. My uncles Vette had the same issues where the computer wouldn't communicate with the scanner. After 2 computers we found wires rubbed through in the harness. After fixing the connections it was fine. I would hate to see you spend your money and this wasn't the solution.
I seem to remember a member here a few years ago that had a wiring harness issue. Can't remember exactly but I seem to recall it was rubbing at the back of the engine.

Anyone else recall this?

[Timw286]

Electrical issues in auto's are the HARDEST to diagnose

[FF1077]

Try this one

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showpost.php?p=737283&postcount=9

and this


http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=64820&highlight=check+engine+light

and more

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=74918&highlight=cut+wires

and

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51081&highlight=check+engine+light


I know you originally had a dead fuel pump so here

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=56597&highlight=fpdm


I hope these help you in some way.
Good luck!!!

[justbob]

Wasn't there a chaffing issue above the sunvisor recently too?

[Reek09]

I've been reading you guys posts and links for about an hour now and still can't say my problem is related to any of this. The next thing im gonna do is get my computer and call up Silversurfer and see if I can put my computer in his Marauder to see what's going to happen. I'm thinking it might very well be my computer because of the way the car has been acting. I remember sometimes getting in my car on a hot day and my drivers side window won't work..but maybe an hour later or a day it would work fine. Then a few times at start it would idle rough like its going to cut off then smooth out and run fine..it has to be something weird going on to do that. This time when the car cut off it did the rough idle..never smoothed out and didn't crank back up but other times it did.

[EMAS]

The power window issue as well as the no cranking have nothing to do with the computer. So it is much more likely that you have a wiring issue somewhere.

[Reek09]

No..my car cranks but it won't fire up. So the ECM won't prevent my car from starting? Or if its something wrong with it it won't power up the fuel pump so that it will start? Because the problem is my fuel pump isn't engaging. There is no sound from the pump when the key is turnt on.

[Mr. Man]

Have you checked the fuel pump cut out switch in the trunk?

[FF1077]

http://www.mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77362

[Reek09]

Have you checked the fuel pump cut out switch in the trunk?

I've checked and swapped every module, relay, fuse related to the pump

[FF1077]

From your other thread, I posted there too.



Now I'm really frustrated! Changed my pump and still can't start her up. I had to cut the wires to get the assembly out and I put them back together but the pump still isn't engaging. Maybe one of the wires I put back together came loose but I taped them up pretty good so they shouldn't have. I don't know what to do next...


When you say you taped them up pretty good, did you use a butt splice or solder the wires together?
Also someone asks what the PATS light was doing when you turned the key. I didnt see an answer for that.

[1stMerc]

There is a pic of a bap install with accompaning pcm and FPDm wiring diagram out there, but i'm having a devil of a time finding it. Does anyone have it? i beleive there is a signal wire that goes from pcm to inertia switch or fpdm, that may be the culprit.

[Ramos29]

Been having an issue with my car not starting. Changed the fuel pump and every fuse n switch related to it and still nothing. Then came to find out it wasn't the fuel pump after all after I already changed it. Tested the old pump and it came on..leads me to realize I have some sort of electrical problem going on. I'm not getting any power to the fpdm or the inertia switch. Even tried to give direct power to the pump from the wiring and still nothing. I've done all I can so I'm going to let the professionals take it from here..:bigcry::bigcry:

I had a similar problem no start/ hard start, my problem was the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) located in the trunk on the driver side under the fuel shut off switch. Cost about 80 bucks though ford I think. Might be worth checking out.

[Reek09]

I had a similar problem no start/ hard start, my problem was the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module) located in the trunk on the driver side under the fuel shut off switch. Cost about 80 bucks though ford I think. Might be worth checking out.
Already changed the fpdm and the inertia switch. Went to the shop yesterday where my car was they searched for the wire chaffing issues and found nothing. They say they really think its my computer. So I'm going take it and send it to be rebuilt or try to find a used one.

[justbob]

Did you look to see if there was a chip??? They won't be able to communicate with the car either.. Coincidence?:rolleyes:

[Reek09]

Did you look to see if there was a chip??? They won't be able to communicate with the car either.. Coincidence?:rolleyes:

Nah no chip in it. The shop says that my computer is basically dead. The only info he said he gets is a series of miscommunication readings from other modules that the ECM communicates with..if that makes any sense. If I get a used ECM and its fine when I plug it in my car should it work? Or does it still have to be programmed to my car??

[babbage]

Nah no chip in it. The shop says that my computer is basically dead. The only info he said he gets is a series of miscommunication readings from other modules that the ECM communicates with..if that makes any sense. If I get a used ECM and its fine when I plug it in my car should it work? Or does it still have to be programmed to my car??

I would get a computer with the same catch code. Mine is a BMD0

[justbob]

PM Zack on ChicagoSVT. IIRC he said any computer from the same year will work.
He probably has 20 in his basement LOL.

[guspech750]

PM Zack on ChicagoSVT. IIRC he said any computer from the same year will work.
He probably has 20 in his basement LOL.

ChicagoSVT is no longer. It merged with TCG. www.thechicagogarage.com



Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[Reek09]

PM Zack on ChicagoSVT. IIRC he said any computer from the same year will work.
He probably has 20 in his basement LOL.

Thanks..I emailed him. Waiting for his reply..

[FordNut]

It's probably going to have to go to the dealer. Changing out the PCM won't work unless the PATS is turned off in the new PCM. I believe the dealer has to program the PCM for PATS.

[1stMerc]

It's probably going to have to go to the dealer. Changing out the PCM won't work unless the PATS is turned off in the new PCM. I believe the dealer has to program the PCM for PATS.

Yeah they had to program mine for the pats and program the existing keys.

Mine was also a revised unit as well PNK0 instead of the stock MAV2 for 04's.

[vegasmarauder]

Before you plunk down 1100 for a new PCM, here's a few thoughts.

You said you originally had power problems between the junction box and dash wiring.
If you look at the pos batt cable it has a pigtail that runs to the battery junction box. This cable corrodes on the inside and at the screw bolt on the junction box. It affects the voltage level so screwy things happen. I have had to replace the battery cable to fix the problem. You can't just cut off the end and replace it and an aftermarket cable has the same issues. Use the Ford one. Costs some $$, but goes right in (you do have to run it to the starter which is a pain behind the head, but doable). What makes me think this is possible, is that the car has hard (slow) cranking with a new battery and good starter. This is classic bad cable under the insulation. Have had to do this to 2 MM's with 70K plus miles.

Also, the PATS gives a no crank if the wrong key is used. Not a crank/no start. And not to worry people but the only basic difference in PCM wiring between PATS and non is that a wire is goes to ground outside the PCM in non PATS goes into one of eh pins of the programmed PCM for PATS (and a few other wires from the key switch). I don't think you have a PATS issue.

Also, in the junction box is the PCM relay and the fuel pump relay and the starter relay (along with some others). If you are not getting good power into this box (since you had to run a new igintion switch wire) the relays won't work right and you get an intermittant problem. Also you have to check the actual connectors the relays seat into. They can get corroded from condensation and loose from heat and even by changing the relays (or pulling them out and in to keep testing the elect system).

I don't know if you are aware but the fuel pump will only cycle for about 5 seconds with key on, not running. Then it cycles off. This can mislead you to think the pump is bad.

By the way, most shops (even the dealerships) come to the "Replace PCM" instruction in the manual when everyrhing else checks out good. This is an error with an intermittant problem. I had one MM that would die on left turns when hitting a bump. It was a bad PCM relay. It tested good every time when stationary, but finally failed when driving with the Ford NGS tool on it.

Good luck.. These electrical issues are a pain. Just have to take each issue one at a time and it helps to have a woring diagram book (Ford one, not a Chiltons) to trace each circuit and test it at every junction.

Fix the bypass wire issue to the ignition switch first and it amy help diagnose the other probelm. A lot of PCMs get changed that are not bad.

[EMAS]

Many independent shops have the ability to program the car to the key, not just Ford dealers, for example the Auto Engineuity scanner with the "advanced" Ford package can do it, I used in for my Marauder since I only got the Valet key with it. I also used in on the wife's Taurus since I only got 1 key with it too.

[Glenn-ho]

I had a problem with a no start and would crank. I was stumped. The weird thing was the pats light would flash and the check engine light would flash real fast at the same time when you turned the key on. I posted here.

Does your Pats and check light flash as soon as you turn the key on?

[FordNut]

Many independent shops have the ability to program the car to the key, not just Ford dealers, for example the Auto Engineuity scanner with the "advanced" Ford package can do it, I used in for my Marauder since I only got the Valet key with it. I also used in on the wife's Taurus since I only got 1 key with it too.

A new PCM means you have zero keys. I'm not sure the scanner you refer to will do that, but if so that's good to know.

[Glenn-ho]

Yes with a ford star scanner you can go into the pats to program any key that fits the ignition cylinder. But the point I was making is I had a no start but would crank. My pats light and check engine light would both flash at the same time with the key on. A pats light will turn off after so many seconds (I forgot how many, it was awhile ago). Mine did not turn off. I lost 12v to the pats section of the PCM. I pulled the PCM and pin checked the connector to find what wire and wire color lost 12v with a wiring schematic. Once I identified the wire I traced it back and found a small cut in a factory splice (Ford quality made in Mexico). It corroded the wire inside the coating. It was hard to find but not impossible. Took me two weeks to figure it out. It was a yellow wire with a black stripe. The splice connected four wires the same color. If I remember correctly yellow with a black stripe sends 12v to various areas of the PCM. I know of one more 03 Crown Vic sport that had the same wire corrode at the same splice. Since that is two confirmed problems with that splice I am sure there is more out there. I helped the 03 crown Vic sport owner on another forum. He had it easy since I told him where the splice is.

[Reek09]

Yes with a ford star scanner you can go into the pats to program any key that fits the ignition cylinder. But the point I was making is I had a no start but would crank. My pats light and check engine light would both flash at the same time with the key on. A pats light will turn off after so many seconds (I forgot how many, it was awhile ago). Mine did not turn off. I lost 12v to the pats section of the PCM. I pulled the PCM and pin checked the connector to find what wire and wire color lost 12v with a wiring schematic. Once I identified the wire I traced it back and found a small cut in a factory splice (Ford quality made in Mexico). It corroded the wire inside the coating. It was hard to find but not impossible. Took me two weeks to figure it out. It was a yellow wire with a black stripe. The splice connected four wires the same color. If I remember correctly yellow with a black stripe sends 12v to various areas of the PCM. I know of one more 03 Crown Vic sport that had the same wire corrode at the same splice. Since that is two confirmed problems with that splice I am sure there is more out there. I helped the 03 crown Vic sport owner on another forum. He had it easy since I told him where the splice is.
Well got an update from the shop, they are telling me that it is in fact a wiring problem somewhere. They put the new computer in and programmed it and everything and they said they are loosing power somewhere between the relay in the box under the hood to the inertia switch. He said he ran a hot wire from the junction box under the hood to the wiring where the inertia switch is and it started. So its a bad wire somewhere between there and he says finding that problem will be from another 500-800 bucks!! I'm kinda pissed right now. He told me to figure out what I wanted to do and get back with him. I wanna tell him just leave it hot wired and let me take it now and go get another opinion but that's gonna be more money anyway...

[Glenn-ho]

I think I know what the problem is if the pats light is flashing with the key in the on position? Don't engage the starter just turn the key on to run so all the lights in the instrument cluster come on and observe the red pats light on top of the dash. Get back to me. I could have saved you the cost of the PCM and programming.

[1 Bad Merc]

I would get your car out of their right away. These guys are out to make money not fix your problems. These are the guys that will have you changing everything and cost you a fortune. For the kind of money you paid you might as well take it to a Ford dealer and have them track down your problem. Look around for another mechanic asap!

[Reek09]

I would get your car out of their right away. These guys are out to make money not fix your problems. These are the guys that will have you changing everything and cost you a fortune. For the kind of money you paid you might as well take it to a Ford dealer and have them track down your problem. Look around for another mechanic asap!

That's the same thing I was thinking man! I think he already knows what's going on. He's telling me "we do this for a living we will find it..its just that these kind of problems are hard to fins because you never know what you have to take apart and how long it will take". Either way I'm already looking at 600 bucks right now if I tell them I'm gonna take it. Then I still have to find the problem so taking it somewhere else might be a little too late now. Unless I can just tell them to leave it hot wired for now since that's the way they got it to start.

[1 Bad Merc]

I hope you paid them with a credit card-you can then dispute the charges!

Go get a flatbed truck and get your car out of their before they start messing around with more stuff. See if they have your original computer and go find a good mechanic. If it was me and I did not know a good mechanic I would take it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it. It might cost you more upfront money but if it is fixed right then it was worth it.

With the way these guys are going you are going to end up with a couple of grand into it!

Just my .02 but I have seen this act play out before and sometimes you have to just take the hit, cut your losses while you can and move on. Otherwise you are going to get in so deep with these guys that you will be wondering what happened.

[Reek09]

I hope you paid them with a credit card-you can then dispute the charges!

Go get a flatbed truck and get your car out of their before they start messing around with more stuff. See if they have your original computer and go find a good mechanic. If it was me and I did not know a good mechanic I would take it to the Ford dealer and have them fix it. It might cost you more upfront money but if it is fixed right then it was worth it.

With the way these guys are going you are going to end up with a couple of grand into it!

Just my .02 but I have seen this act play out before and sometimes you have to just take the hit, cut your losses while you can and move on. Otherwise you are going to get in so deep with these guys that you will be wondering what happened.
I haven't paid them anything yet he just told me all this like an hour ago. He told me to figure out what I wanna do and get back with them..

[1 Bad Merc]

Check with Doom if you are near Maryland or else look for some other members in the VA area and send out some PM's asking for some references on good mechanics. That is what I would do asap.

[FF1077]

I agree with 1 Bad Merc.
There were a lot of people here saying it wasnt the computer and if this guy runs a shop doing this he should have know it too. I think the guy jumped the gun and didnt do the work.

Fact is now that you know what the problem is you can probably fix it yourself. Or at least give it a shop with that info.

They are saying you have lost power between the relay in the box under the hood to the inertia switch. Get a wiring diagram (I have on if you need help) and start checking the wires. As I understand it you need to start at the inertia switch and work towards the relay. WHen you hit the point where you have power you know its between that point and the last point you checked.

I had to do this with a 1994 Mustang that had no cranking. I traced it and tracked and finally found it was a bad connector. Spliced in a new one and VROOOM.

Good Luck.

[Reek09]

I agree with 1 Bad Merc.
There were a lot of people here saying it wasnt the computer and if this guy runs a shop doing this he should have know it too. I think the guy jumped the gun and didnt do the work.

Fact is now that you know what the problem is you can probably fix it yourself. Or at least give it a shop with that info.

They are saying you have lost power between the relay in the box under the hood to the inertia switch. Get a wiring diagram (I have on if you need help) and start checking the wires. As I understand it you need to start at the inertia switch and work towards the relay. WHen you hit the point where you have power you know its between that point and the last point you checked.

I had to do this with a 1994 Mustang that had no cranking. I traced it and tracked and finally found it was a bad connector. Spliced in a new one and VROOOM.

Good Luck.
He did say that my computer was zapped probably from low voltage because he said my battery is also bad. He said that low voltage probably wiped the computer out.

[1 Bad Merc]

I haven't paid them anything yet he just told me all this like an hour ago. He told me to figure out what I wanna do and get back with them..

I would ask if they have my original computer and if they did I would tell them to send back the new one that they bought. You should be able to get credit for it. I would then ask what you owed them in labor fees and pay them and get my car out of their. Take the car to people that know these cars.

I know guys who are proffesional mechanics and they dont just throw parts at things until it works. They are very methodical in how they work and start at one end and go to the other.

You can do what you want but I would not leave my car there. I once had a car that had a short in it that I couldnt find and took it to three different places until I finally found the guy who could find it and fix it. He ended up being the cheapest of the three guys and now anytime I have an electrical problem it goes to him.

That's why you should send the PM's out and start looking around for that guy or take it to the dealer where the guys deal with these problems alot.

Good Luck.

[1 Bad Merc]

He did say that my computer was zapped probably from low voltage because he said my battery is also bad. He said that low voltage probably wiped the computer out.

Never heard of a computer getting zapped by low voltage before. I have had cars that have died with numerous issues -batteries/alternators, burnt wires. shorts etc. and never had a computer zapped before. Not to say it cant happen but that seems to be stretching it a bit for me.

Sounds like he is going to make a good buck off the computer on you and doesnt want to lose his' profit on it. Hopefully he still has your original computer and you can get it when you pickup the car.

[Glenn-ho]

Well I can tell you I had a wiring problem in my 03 MM. It was a bad factory splice. The made in Mexico wiring harness had a small cut right next to a factory splice. Allowed water to get in and corrode it. My MM would not start. Cranked but no start. The pats light would flash as soon as the key was turned to run. After I realized the PCM was losing power to a part of it I removed the PCM and pin checked the PCM connector to see which 12v supply was not hot. I found no 12v to the pats. I checked my wiring schematic and indentified the wire color and traced it from the PCM through the left fender across the front on the radiator support and to the underhood fuse box. I unwrapped the whole harness and found the problem.
I missed the very small cut a few times but was persistent. It was a yellow wire with a black stripe. There is 2 that run across the front wiring harness.

Anyway that wiring problem screwed up my PCM. The pats would not allow any other key I had except one to start the car. Prior to the problem I had three keys programmed to the car. My friends Ford NGS scanner could go into the pats but it would not allow any other key than one to start it. I even called a lock smith who came out and could not get the PCM to accept any more keys. I replaced the PCM with one I bought on this forum. Used my friends ford NGS and programmed the three keys I had to start the car.

My problem is posted on this forum. Took me three weeks to figure it out. I also helped another member on another forum that had the same problem at the same splice.

[Reek09]

Well I can tell you I had a wiring problem in my 03 MM. It was a bad factory splice. The made in Mexico wiring harness had a small cut right next to a factory splice. Allowed water to get in and corrode it. My MM would not start. Cranked but no start. The pats light would flash as soon as the key was turned to run. After I realized the PCM was losing power to a part of it I removed the PCM and pin checked the PCM connector to see which 12v supply was not hot. I found no 12v to the pats. I checked my wiring schematic and indentified the wire color and traced it from the PCM through the left fender across the front on the radiator support and to the underhood fuse box. I unwrapped the whole harness and found the problem.
I missed the very small cut a few times but was persistent. It was a yellow wire with a black stripe. There is 2 that run across the front wiring harness.

Anyway that wiring problem screwed up my PCM. The pats would not allow any other key I had except one to start the car. Prior to the problem I had three keys programmed to the car. My friends Ford NGS scanner could go into the pats but it would not allow any other key than one to start it. I even called a lock smith who came out and could not get the PCM to accept any more keys. I replaced the PCM with one I bought on this forum. Used my friends ford NGS and programmed the three keys I had to start the car.

My problem is posted on this forum. Took me three weeks to figure it out. I also helped another member on another forum that had the same problem at the same splice.
My pats light comes on for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position then it goes off. I told them to go ahead and try to find the problem and he says they will find it. I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet on this one and learn from this. I'll let you guys know what he finds. I have my old computer at home with me I got the one I took them from an 03 MM that was wrecked I only paid 150 for it vs the 600 they were gonna charge me for getting one from their source.

[Glenn-ho]

Good luck!

[1 Bad Merc]

My pats light comes on for a few seconds when you turn the key to the on position then it goes off. I told them to go ahead and try to find the problem and he says they will find it. I'm just gonna have to bite the bullet on this one and learn from this. I'll let you guys know what he finds. I have my old computer at home with me I got the one I took them from an 03 MM that was wrecked I only paid 150 for it vs the 600 they were gonna charge me for getting one from their source.

Well it is going on Friday now and I presume they found the problem? Just wondering....

[RF Overlord]

He did say that my computer was zapped probably from low voltage because he said my battery is also bad. He said that low voltage probably wiped the computer out.


Never heard of a computer getting zapped by low voltage before. Agree with 1 Bad Merc. I've been a network tech for a telecom company for over 30 years and I've seen equipment damaged by high voltage surges or spikes, but never because of LOW voltage.

[Reek09]

Well it is going on Friday now and I presume they found the problem? Just wondering....

Haven't heard back from them yet. They are closed on the weekends so hopefully ill hear from them Monday..

[Reek09]

Ok here is what they found. A bundle of wires on the inside of the drivers side fender had gotten rotted out by water getting in or being pinched. The drivers side fender had to be removed to get access to the wires. He said once he unwrapped the bundle the wires started falling apart like they were rotting out. This also had something to do with my original problem with the hot wire I had ran for the ignition switch problem but all is fixed now coming to a total of 1,357 bucks. He said I also need a battery but he says it starts up and runs fine everything is working as it should, with the exception of my airbag light on which reads an open circuit for the seat control module but ill deal with that myself.

[Glenn-ho]

That was the other problem area which is located under the fuse/relay box on the right fender. Glad your back on the road.

[Reek09]

That was the other problem area which is located under the fuse/relay box on the right fender. Glad your back on the road.

Thanks man for all your imput on this also! Didn't wanna take a hit for that much money for this problem but oh well. Lesson learned!