Differential removal?

[tallpaul]

I am trying to insall new gears and I don't have a lift so I am thinking that removing the differential would be easier. I have already ordered replacement control arms, so I will have to remove them anyway. Has anyone done this before, should I do it, and does anyone have directions or tips on how to do it?

[ctrlraven]

huh?

Why do you need replacement control arms if you are install a new ring and pinion gear? With installing new ring and pinion gears on the Ford 8.8, the axles and differential need to come out.

You just need to block the front wheels, support the body at the rear jack points under the rear does and then two jack stands under the rear axle.

[tallpaul]

huh?

Why do you need replacement control arms if you are install a new ring and pinion gear? With installing new ring and pinion gears on the Ford 8.8, the axles and differential need to come out.

You just need to block the front wheels, support the body at the rear jack points under the rear does and then two jack stands under the rear axle.

I am installing the sparta performance control arms now because I hear that they are great to have. I will be under the car anyway so now would be the ideal time to do it.

I have already removed the differential internals. I just thought that removing the whole thing to install the gears would be a whole lot easier than having to get up and down from the ground several times.

[ctrlraven]

The pumpkin that holds the differential is part of the axle sleeves which aren't going anywhere. The differential unit itself needs to be removed as the ring gear has to be installed on to it.

Have you ever installed a ring and pinion gear before on a Ford 8.8 rear?

[tallpaul]

I have never rebuilt a ford 8.8 before. I did rebuild a Dana 60 before but that was a few years ago and my teacher was there. He is the one that wants me to rebuild it myself. All the shops around here want too much money. How do I remove the airbags? What else needs to removed and how do I do it?

[ctrlraven]

Now I get what you've been asking, you want to remove the whole rear axle. There is no need for it.

Talk to some fellow NC MM owners and see where they got their gears installed. Gear install should be $300-500. Even check with 4x4 shops as they do a lot of gear changes as well.

[tallpaul]

Now I get what you've been asking, you want to remove the whole rear axle. There is no need for it.

Talk to some fellow NC MM owners and see where they got their gears installed. Gear install should be $300-500. Even check with 4x4 shops as they do a lot of gear changes as well.


I guess I shoud have been a little clearer about what I was trying to do. My estimates around here range from $700 to $1000 for a rebuild.

[1 Bad Merc]

Then you need to look around more for a cheaper estimate.....the Ford rearend is tricky and if you dont set the lash and pinion right it will make noise like crazy. Plus it has to be shimmed correctly.

Alot of us here dont even mess with them and go to guys that work on these everyday. Do yourself a favor and find someone who knows what they are doing and let them handle it. Just my .02.

Good Luck.

[fastblackmerc]

The guy that did my gear swap is in Durham, N.C. I highly recommend him. Want his number?

[Chevyguy]

Meh if you have the skills and motivation then just lacking the tools

There are several writeups on the internet. And yes it will be easier with the axle sitting on sawhorses especially for a NOob trying to get the thing set up right

[Got_1]

Meh if you have the skills and motivation then just lacking the tools

There are several writeups on the internet. And yes it will be easier with the axle sitting on sawhorses especially for a NOob trying to get the thing set up right

not necessarily. lots of extra work to pull the entire axle assembly out and once its out it will be a PITA to set pinion bearing preload without the axle assembly secured down.

[RacerX]

You can do it. If your teacher says you can do it and wants you too, go for it. I'll be doing mine myself as soon as the gears and rebuild kit arrive. You only need to pull the axles out a little bit once the C-clips are off the shafts also.

[EMAS]

not necessarily. lots of extra work to pull the entire axle assembly out and once its out it will be a PITA to set pinion bearing preload without the axle assembly secured down.

He is replacing the control arms at the same time so it's not that much more work to take it out of there where it will be easier to work on. Particularly setting the pinion bearing preload as there will be room to spin the torque wrench 360 degrees, with a clear view that entire time, to get an accurate reading. Under the car on jack stands you'll be lucky to get 180 degrees of rotation, if you can position yourself to be able to read it that entire distance.

[TJCOX]

Might as well replace the clutch pack while you're at it. Have someone that's experienced do this for you and you'll be glad you did.

[tallpaul]

Might as well replace the clutch pack while you're at it. Have someone that's experienced do this for you and you'll be glad you did.

I don't know anyone who is very experienced in this. I have a friend who is a mechanic at the local Toyota dealership, but he is a certified blue oval guy. He has told me that he could try and do it, but that he isn't too confident in his own work. lets face it, rebuilding a differential isn't a common repair. I have been taken advantage of before by some mechanics so I am kind of cautious about taking my car to other people.

[GetMeMyStogie]

There isn't much left to removing the entire axle housing once you've got the control arms out.

* - these steps might be optional



Air bags - first, disable the system (best to remove neg. bat. cable); disconnect air line into airbag*; disconnect electrical connector to solenoid*; remove clip locking solenoid in position; rotate solenoid to first detent - this is when the air rushes out (unless the airbags are leaky and have already deflated); rotate solenoid back to lock position and re-insert the locking clip; use your hands to loosen the airbag cup from the axle housing, do not use any metal tools - the cup is a phenolic material and easily damaged. You might not have to actually remove the airbags once they're free of the axle housing, since there is a clip at the top holding them in place. But, they'll come out if you remove that last clip and the other connectors I mentioned.
Brake lines - you'll have to disconnect the brake line(s) to the rear end. I don't know if there is just one flex line that has to be disconnected or two.
Disconnect the shocks.
Disconnect electrical connectors for the wheel speed sensors.
There's also the Watts link that needs to be disconnected/unbolted.



Did I miss anything?

[YOCKIT]

I put in 410 gear over a year ago and have the ford tools and cd instructions. Is not hard with the right tools. Willing to sell, if you are interested. They arent cheap. I paid over $500 but got it perfect with rear on the car.

[EMAS]

You may want to check out the videos from this guy, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0GsLDg3C6Hc there are only short clips from his full videos you can buy from his site or on E-bay. Might be worth picking up for a little piece of mind if you are unsure.