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gmarsden9
04-20-2012, 07:21 AM
hey guys have a 03 mm when i start it up for the past few months have let it warm up a bit then about 10 min into my drive the thermo, wants to skyrocket for about 20 seconds before it wants to drop back down to normal.. have flushed it aka "burped" the system a few times and also thermostat has been changed as well .. during this over heating the fan is coming on.. and there is an extreem loss of power when gass is aplied... any ideas from anyone would be greatly apriecieated of whats going on posibly... hope everyone having a blessed friday

SC Cheesehead
04-20-2012, 07:23 AM
Sounds like you may still have air in the cooling system.

Try parking the car with the nose pointing slightly uphill and then burp it again.

gmarsden9
04-20-2012, 07:29 AM
thing is is that this seems to happen every month or so its like the antifreeze is going somewear and no one knows wear .. the coolant level get low every so often more than it should i think

gmarsden9
04-20-2012, 07:30 AM
i will try to do that tho

fastblackmerc
04-20-2012, 09:35 AM
thing is is that this seems to happen every month or so its like the antifreeze is going somewear and no one knows wear .. the coolant level get low every so often more than it should i think

Burp the system and keep an eye on the coolant. You shouldn't be losing any.

mcb26
04-20-2012, 09:43 AM
Had that happen with an 88 Cougar. Turned out the dealer had changed the thermostat before I bought it and put the gasket on the wrong side of the thermostat causing it to hang every now and then.

fastblackmerc
04-20-2012, 09:47 AM
Had that happen with an 88 Cougar. Turned out the dealer had changed the thermostat before I bought it and put the gasket on the wrong side of the thermostat causing it to hang every now and then.

No gasket in the Marauder thermostat housing... it uses an o-ring.

djv5150
04-20-2012, 10:17 AM
Sounds like you may still have air in the cooling system.

Try parking the car with the nose pointing slightly uphill and then burp it again.

What he said, you may also have a leak that only seeps under load.
Do you smell coolant after driving the car for awhile?

ctrlraven
04-20-2012, 10:18 AM
Did you replace the thermostat yourself or did the dealership do it? Maybe it was put in the wrong way?

FF1077
04-20-2012, 12:31 PM
I had the same problem with a Merkur Scorpio. Turned out the head was cracked. It ran and drove just fine, I just had to top of the antifreeze coolant every few days. I waited for it to give up the ghost, I even bought a spare engine thinking it wasnt going to last long. I drove it for over a year that way and sold the car with the spare engine. The new owner tore it down and told me about the crack.

rkk
04-20-2012, 12:51 PM
When you say, "and there is an extreme loss of power when gas is applied" I believe the computer is actually shutting down 4 of the 8 cylinders to prevent the engine from destroying itself.

There is an LED to the right of the AIR BAG light in the shape of a thermometer that according to the online PDF of the owner's manual should light up.
Although, I could have sworn that someone said we are missing the bulb that was supposed to go into that socket from the factory.

We have aluminum heads on this car, try not to repeat doing this if the temperature gauge is pegged on the 'H' Hot side.

babbage
04-20-2012, 02:52 PM
FORD 4.6L DOHC REFILL/BURP PROCEDURE
Back To Homepage (http://reischeperformance.com/index.html#anchor)
This procedure is based on a collaboration of information from the forums, the Ford TSB and personal experience. I’ve only included what I feel is relevant in order to refill the system properly as quickly as possible. The general concept here is that air will accumulate at the highest point in the system which is the crossover tube.
http://reischeperformance.com/Images/cap.jpg
1) Car must be parked level or on a slight incline with the front higher is even better.
2) Remove the radiator reservoir cap and crossover plug.
http://reischeperformance.com/Images/plug.jpg

(The crossover plug is normally removed with a ¼” socket drive but is frequently found to be seized. You can damage your ratchet if you apply too much force to remove it. It may be necessary to use a pair of vice grips around the edge of the plug and, in extreme cases, heat it with a torch. I recommend the use of anti-seize or grease on the crossover plug threads upon reinstallation. It is never necessary to tighten the crossover plug much, just snug it, there is an O-ring to seal the system.)


3) Fill the reservoir just past the full line. It is best to add antifreeze (3/4 gal is about 20% concentration) or any additives at this time. Cap the reservoir and you should not need to open the reservoir again. In fact ALWAYS CHECK AND FILL THE SYSTEM AT THE CROSSOVER PLUG after verifying the reservoir is full. (Warning: Do not rely on the reservoir bottle to degas the system or indicate coolant level. The reservoir may show normal level even when there is a large amount of air in the system. There have been those who have lost engines due to not adding coolant at the crossover plug.)
4) Get a funnel and wrap some tape around the tip in order to make a seal with the crossover tube opening. Screw the funnel down into the crossover threads until the funnel seats in firmly.
5) With the reservoir capped, continue adding coolant at the funnel until the funnel fills up an inch or two. Squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times to force air pockets out of the piping.

http://reischeperformance.com/Images/funnel.jpg
6) Start the engine and let it idle but occasionally rev the engine a bit to dislodge any trapped air. Add coolant to keep the funnel full if necessary. You will notice many large air pockets escaping at first but eventually the level will rise in the funnel as temperature goes up expanding the coolant. Keep the engine running just until the thermostat starts to open a bit. (About 170-172° with our thermostat) When this happens the upper radiator inlet will be warm to the touch. (It is normal for tiny air bubbles to still be escaping out of the funnel- this happens because the system is open and unpressurized.)
7) Shut off the engine but be ready to add coolant because the level in the funnel will drop as soon as you do so. Quickly unscrew and remove the funnel, top off the coolant and reinstall the crossover plug only snug. (This is done to keep coolant from being expelled because stagnant coolant in the engine becomes heated and starts expanding again) A common mistake is to run the engine too long which creates excessive heat and, instead of dropping, the coolant level rises in the funnel when the engine is shut off. If this happens just reinstall the plug quickly to minimize coolant loss.
8) After 40 min to an hour the engine will still be warm. Slowly remove the crossover plug but use caution because there may still be a little pressure in the system. Top off the coolant again but this time do not reinstall the plug.
9) After 3 to 5 more hours the engine will be completely cooled down and you will need to top off the crossover once more. Reinstall the crossover plug then verify that the reservoir is full. DO NOT OPEN THE RESERVOIR CAP WITH THE CROSSOVER PLUG REMOVED.
10) You may drive the vehicle normally. Make sure the engine reaches full operating temperature. Best to do some highway cruising and/or the engine should see some mid-rpm speeds at minimum.
11) Later or the next day when the vehicle is completely cold again: Do not start the car and do not open the reservoir. Just top off the coolant at the crossover again. If you have to add more than an ounce or two of coolant then repeat this step again after another heat cycle. (For those who want to get every bit of air out you can repeat this step a few times until you can add only a capful of coolant.)




Reische Performance 170 Degree High Performance Thermostat
Looking for the ultimate thermostat? We've got it. The Reische Performance 170 Degree Thermostat.
Many have searched the internet and part stores for a properly-fitting low temp thermostat for our late model Cobras, Machs, Bullitts and 05-06 GTs. The cheap, aftermarket t-stats are unable to close off the bypass fully which allows hot coolant to recirculate back into the engine at all times, reducing the efficiency of your cooling system. I custom build these thermostats to meet this demand because there just isn't a proper low temp t-stat currently available for this application.
The Reische Performance thermostat utilizes the same high-flow diaphragm as the OEM unit along with an identical bypass valve. These units are meticulously assembled by hand using Stant parts and then welding them back together for maximum strength. Every t-stat built is fully tested to ensure consistent opening temps. The high cost is due to the fact that two t-stats are used to build one Reische Performance thermostat.
Whether you are using an aftermarket radiator or not this thermostat will provide the best possible coolant temps and heat dissipation from your setup along with reduced warm up times when compared to a t-stat with holes drilled in the diaphragm.



Lethal (http://www.lethalperformance.com/03-04-mustang-mach-1-cooling-thermostats-c-19_361_362/reische-performance-170-degree-high-performance-thermostat-p-29633?zenid=9d4b4e8266b12f4f54 0d3a576080b927) has them

ctrlraven
04-20-2012, 03:11 PM
When you say, "and there is an extreme loss of power when gas is applied" I believe the computer is actually shutting down 4 of the 8 cylinders to prevent the engine from destroying itself.

There is an LED to the right of the AIR BAG light in the shape of a thermometer that according to the online PDF of the owner's manual should light up.
Although, I could have sworn that someone said we are missing the bulb that was supposed to go into that socket from the factory.

We have aluminum heads on this car, try not to repeat doing this if the temperature gauge is pegged on the 'H' Hot side.

Yeah we don't have MCS, all cylinders all the time.

RF Overlord
04-20-2012, 03:36 PM
the thermo, wants to skyrocket for about 20 seconds before it wants to drop back down to normal..Had the same thing happen on my work van. Was a bad thermostat.
have flushed it aka "burped" the system a few times and also thermostat has been changed as well .. Flushing and burping are not the same thing. Try the procedure babbage posted and try another thermostat if that doesn't fix it. Also, many have reported aftermarket t-stats not working correctly. Use a Motorcraft one.