View Full Version : Complete Moog front end installed (finally)
babbage
04-21-2012, 07:15 PM
I had all of this installed by my mechanic on Friday, collecting parts a while.
Front end had creaking sounds, shocks were worn and the front was sitting about 2" lower than it is now, got 80k on her and never since I owned her at 46K did I do anything to the front end besides tires and alignments, I think it was all factory.
Got most of this on RockAuto.com
Moog lower arms
Moog upper arms (stamped) forged no more?
Moog OE Style replacement springs
Monroe Severe Duty Shocks
Moog shock install kit
Ford OEM Endlinks dealer
Ford nuts from the dealer
Wow it rides wonderful, It sits at LEAST 2" higher in the front. Rear looked low so this morning I raised it. Now I have about 3 fingers between tire and wheel well front and rear. RAS was set left of center I moved it to right of center or 3/4" all the way up. tightened down. It's an 8mm and an 5/8" ? socket, center on watts link. Sprayed WD 40 over everything first and wipe clean Front might settle, but not more than 1/4" Im guessing. I have Nitto 555 265-50-18's all around so I can rotate at least front to rear, and car still has similar rake like factory, just taller.
One month ago or so I did my rear shocks went with OEM Sachs super touring, so they are brand new. Ride is firm and control is back, feels great at 80. My mech measured each front side first, then did each side 1 at a time so most of the alignment is still very on.
Just wanted to share what I bought and it seems to be great so far, nice to have a cushy yet firm factory ride back. Braking and turn in, everything feels 10x better. Thanks to Oz for his write up and torque specs - I have to link that thread, gave as a cheat sheet to my mechanic. :D
Now I have to do brakes - what does pedal pulsing mean? :rolleyes:
MOTOWN
04-21-2012, 07:25 PM
Pedal pulsating=warped rotors
fastblackmerc
04-22-2012, 04:04 AM
Pedal pulsating=warped rotors
Or pad transfer.
justbob
04-22-2012, 06:37 AM
Congrats on the new parts. I just did sway bars F&R, energy suspension bushings and pins on the back, Moog endlinks front (Moog's are what was on mine since I bought it in '04 with 14,340 miles, so I would assume the Moog's are OEM), and F&R Monroes severe duties. So I KNOW what you are saying about an awesome ride!
Makes you wanna drive more and hit the corners harder don't it? :)
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
babbage
04-22-2012, 06:29 PM
Congrats on the new parts. I just did sway bars F&R, energy suspension bushings and pins on the back, Moog endlinks front (Moog's are what was on mine since I bought it in '04 with 14,340 miles, so I would assume the Moog's are OEM), and F&R Monroes severe duties. So I KNOW what you are saying about an awesome ride!
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
Thanks, it was kind of expensive for all everything but it was worth it. I need to get the poly sway bar bushings kit - forgot to do that! At least I can install those by myself. Which energy kit is it for factory bars?
Makes you wanna drive more and hit the corners harder don't it? :)
Heh, yep even right into my own driveway. God it feels so good, like a brand new mattress and box spring. :D
justbob
04-23-2012, 06:16 PM
Which energy kit is it for factory bars?
Factory? IDK.
The Energy bushings needed for the rear ADDCO is 9.5161 RC and the rear links for factory or ADDCO is 9.8121 R
*The bushings are two hole and require a small amount of welding on the axle perch.* If you need pics, I can get you some later this week.
Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
Wow it rides wonderful, It sits at LEAST 2" higher in the front. Rear looked low so this morning I raised it. Now I have about 3 fingers between tire and wheel well front and rear. RAS was set left of center I moved it to right of center or 3/4" all the way up. tightened down. It's an 8mm and an 5/8" ? socket, center on watts link. Sprayed WD 40 over everything first and wipe clean Front might settle, but not more than 1/4" Im guessing. I have Nitto 555 265-50-18's all around so I can rotate at least front to rear, and car still has similar rake like factory, just taller.
Glad to hear all came out well.
Question, how do we raise the rear? Sensor on the rear axle area? Is it easy to do?
BODYMAN
04-24-2012, 08:10 PM
Sounds nice! Iam getting ready to attack my frt it just started making a little noise. I opted for the KYB shocks myself cant wait till I get it done.
babbage
04-25-2012, 01:39 PM
Glad to hear all came out well.
Question, how do we raise the rear? Sensor on the rear axle area? Is it easy to do?
center bracket bolted to center of watts link, loosen carefully, slide towards passenger side to go up.
03mmmonroe
04-25-2012, 03:28 PM
I had all of this installed by my mechanic on Friday, collecting parts a while.
Front end had creaking sounds, shocks were worn and the front was sitting about 2" lower than it is now, got 80k on her and never since I owned her at 46K did I do anything to the front end besides tires and alignments, I think it was all factory.
Got most of this on RockAuto.com
Moog lower arms
Moog upper arms (stamped) forged no more?
Moog OE Style replacement springs
Monroe Severe Duty Shocks
Moog shock install kit
Ford OEM Endlinks dealer
Ford nuts from the dealer
Wow it rides wonderful, It sits at LEAST 2" higher in the front. Rear looked low so this morning I raised it. Now I have about 3 fingers between tire and wheel well front and rear. RAS was set left of center I moved it to right of center or 3/4" all the way up. tightened down. It's an 8mm and an 5/8" ? socket, center on watts link. Sprayed WD 40 over everything first and wipe clean Front might settle, but not more than 1/4" Im guessing. I have Nitto 555 265-50-18's all around so I can rotate at least front to rear, and car still has similar rake like factory, just taller.
One month ago or so I did my rear shocks went with OEM Sachs super touring, so they are brand new. Ride is firm and control is back, feels great at 80. My mech measured each front side first, then did each side 1 at a time so most of the alignment is still very on.
Just wanted to share what I bought and it seems to be great so far, nice to have a cushy yet firm factory ride back. Braking and turn in, everything feels 10x better. Thanks to Oz for his write up and torque specs - I have to link that thread, gave as a cheat sheet to my mechanic. :D
Now I have to do brakes - what does pedal pulsing mean? :rolleyes:
You need to find a shop that has an on car brake lathe. I would recommend checking your ford dealer/ new firestone car care center all should have one. I would ask to see if they have a model 9.2 Pro-Cut on car brake lathe. If you find a shop with this unit the cost should be any were from $66 to $130 dollars to have the rotors turned on the car should take them about 1 hour or less per axle. What this will do is resurface the rotor and take in account the run out in the wheel hubs and other stake up and then when you brake it will be smooth. Also a good time to install new pads.
Mike M
04-25-2012, 04:13 PM
I had all of this installed by my mechanic on Friday, collecting parts a while.
Front end had creaking sounds, shocks were worn and the front was sitting about 2" lower than it is now, got 80k on her and never since I owned her at 46K did I do anything to the front end besides tires and alignments, I think it was all factory.
Got most of this on RockAuto.com
Moog lower arms
Moog upper arms (stamped) forged no more?
Moog OE Style replacement springs
Monroe Severe Duty Shocks
Moog shock install kit
Ford OEM Endlinks dealer
Ford nuts from the dealer
Wow it rides wonderful, It sits at LEAST 2" higher in the front. Rear looked low so this morning I raised it. Now I have about 3 fingers between tire and wheel well front and rear. RAS was set left of center I moved it to right of center or 3/4" all the way up. tightened down. It's an 8mm and an 5/8" ? socket, center on watts link. Sprayed WD 40 over everything first and wipe clean Front might settle, but not more than 1/4" Im guessing. I have Nitto 555 265-50-18's all around so I can rotate at least front to rear, and car still has similar rake like factory, just taller.
One month ago or so I did my rear shocks went with OEM Sachs super touring, so they are brand new. Ride is firm and control is back, feels great at 80. My mech measured each front side first, then did each side 1 at a time so most of the alignment is still very on.
Just wanted to share what I bought and it seems to be great so far, nice to have a cushy yet firm factory ride back. Braking and turn in, everything feels 10x better. Thanks to Oz for his write up and torque specs - I have to link that thread, gave as a cheat sheet to my mechanic. :D
Now I have to do brakes - what does pedal pulsing mean? :rolleyes:
Ok, why is your right side muffler disconnected? I have been looking at this picture for a long time and I really need to know.
babbage
04-25-2012, 05:52 PM
Ok, why is your right side muffler disconnected? I have been looking at this picture for a long time and I really need to know.
LOL it was welded on 2 mins later, just a shot of my custom stainless mandrel mid pipes, 99 percent done. ;)
Black&Gifted
04-29-2012, 05:57 AM
Congrats. I bet she's as tight as a virgin the night before prom.
I replaced my upped CAs with the moogs 4k miles ago and I was amazed at how much tighter the car was. Would also like to start replacing the other front end components...oh, priorities!
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.