Eaton Swap In Progress

[tdotcv]

This site is really awesome. I have asked so many people so many questions, from basic to advanced and have always received an answer.
I want to thank everyone for there help.

I have made some progress since last week. Last week I disassembled the intake and pretty much left it at that. Today, I plugged the lower intake with a pipe tap and drilled a hole in it too, for the IAT sensor. A 9/16ths drill bit at the hardware store was almost $50, so I passed on that option. I used a $5 wood drill bit to make a small hole. It drilled though the intake, no problem. Then I put a file inside the hole and spun it in circular motions until I had a hole big enough to fit the tap in. It took about 10 mins to do and I saved a few bucks. I also removed the EGR and did the delete. And I took the alternator to an alternator shop to remove the pulley. The guy was really nice and did it for free. I got a nut and put on the new pulley. I also installed the water tube.

I got the blower back from getting powder coated gloss black, cost $120, and took it to a shop to install the Billetflow 3.1 pulley. It was a short day and was getting dark so I had to stop. I'm doing the swap in the driveway.

I also installed Terry's brackets. The smooth pulley that goes on the alternator bracket was driving me nuts! It wouldn't spin because it was stuck against the engine. I don't think anyone has ever mentioned that the bolt goes in backwards, obvioulsy not like the other bolts, but I noticed it in some pictures that I saw. And thought I read somewhere that the pulley goes in backwards. I wasn't sure which way was backwards, backwards against the engine or backwards against the bracket. But I flipped it until it was able to spin and kept it that way, which ever way that is, without shaving the bracket.

From reading the description in the eaton swap parts list, on modding the COT, it sounds insane! I read some where some guys use a Cobra COT and weld it together with the Marauder. I might go with the crossver delete but I wonder how much that cost. Does anyone have a COT ready for eaton swaps?


Also, when I installed the alternator in the new spot on top of the bracket, I noticed a hole behind the alternator on the engine, check out the pic that I'm pointing to. Does something go there? I'm concerned about having a hole open like that. Does that get plugged?

[03sport007]

Cool another Eaton Swap!!!! Brings back memories.

That blower looks awesome!

Can't help on the COT I cheated and bought mine already modified.

That hole should have a sensor in it. Not sure which one. Did you take one out?

Good luck and keep the pics coming

[tdotcv]

Black sure does look nice. I wish I could cheat too but I already have the tube. If a sensor goes there then I guess that's good. I don't remember if I took one out. I probably did then. I will keep more pics coming in probably a week or two. Have a busy two weeks coming up and hope to get back at it soon.

[bugsyc]

Zack is selling modified cot's on Chicago svt...

[Black&Gifted]

/\/\/\

Contact zack on Chicago garage (formerly chicagosvt). I believe he has 2 already modified COTs ready to go.

[RacerX]

You're mising your Camshaft Position Sensor. Looks like this:

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=320024&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/SMP/PC69_PRIMARY.jpg
Looks good so far. :beer:

[guspech750]

Looks awesome!!


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[tdotcv]

What is that and where does it go? I might have just unplugged it. I have a bunch of stuff unplugged right now and was going to figure out where it goes later. Or do I need to buy it. The alternator wire haarness is too short is this the right part number 1U2Z-14S411-TA for a longer one.


You're mising your Camshaft Position Sensor. Looks like this:

http://info.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=320024&imageurl=http%3A//info.rockauto.com/SMP/PC69_PRIMARY.jpg
Looks good so far. :beer:

[justbob]

What is that and where does it go? I might have just unplugged it. I have a bunch of stuff unplugged right now and was going to figure out where it goes later. Or do I need to buy it. The alternator wire haarness is too short is this the right part number 1U2Z-14S411-TA for a longer one.

It goes in that hole you are fingering..

Just extend the alt. wire with screw down terminal blocks found at home depot in the electrical isle.

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[tdotcv]

It goes in that hole you are fingering..

Just extend the alt. wire with screw down terminal blocks found at home depot in the electrical isle.

Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk 2

Actually I think I remember removing two sensors, one one the passenger side and the the other the drivers side. So it must be some where on the engine, laying around.

That sounds like a good idea espcially since Ford told me that part is 50 bucks. Is there any specific screw down termial block that I should look for?

BTW, Zack is going to hook me up with the mod COT. Saved me so much time and hassle. I wish I asked about it earlier because I have to wait to get it to do the intercooler set up. But I still need to do the BAP install and the fuel pump. I've never even changed the oil in my car before and still don't know how to do it but I'm determined to do the swap, no matter what! I know you guys are here to help, it will get done!

[sailsmen]

Looks good.

Cover those openings.

[burt ragio]

BTW, Zack is going to hook me up with the mod COT. Saved me so much time and hassle. I wish I asked about it earlier because I have to wait to get it to do the intercooler set up. But I still need to do the BAP install and the fuel pump. I've never even changed the oil in my car before and still don't know how to do it but I'm determined to do the swap, no matter what! I know you guys are here to help, it will get done!

Last edited by tdotcv; 05-12-2012 at 02:18 PM.


Take your time with the swap. Take lots of pics for reference recall. Ask questions even when you have the slightest dout. Use loctite when needed it's your best friend.
Zack will do a nice job on the C/O/T you will need new O rings.
Also good time for oil filter relocation kit.

[Black&Gifted]

Great job!

[tdotcv]

More pics of some progress made. I hade only a bit of time this week because of court, babymama drama :argue:. I posted pics of Cobra parts that I bought and had to sell just in case someone thinks they need them, but really you don't. The only part you need is #4. I bought 2 of them, don't ask why. I bought the Metco kit but only needed the lower kit.

The BAP came with the two fittings in my hand. Do I use both of them? Do I need only one, which one? Do I need another pipe fitting?

[bugsyc]

A day late and a dollar short...I just bought an EGR delete..(pic #4) Where did you buy it and for how much???

[tdotcv]

A day late and a dollar short...I just bought an EGR delete..(pic #4) Where did you buy it and for how much???


LETHAL PERFORMANCE $30. Did you find out what belt size to use for your combo?

[burt ragio]

Although many eaton conversions have deleted the EGR with no problems two things of concern are state inspection & rise in engine temp.

[bugsyc]

LETHAL PERFORMANCE $30. Did you find out what belt size to use for your combo? I bought the same one.....Still trying to find out belt size for 3.4...2lb lower and 3.4 and stock lower...Anyone know??? Zack said he never used that exact combo and could only guess...

[SC Cheesehead]

I bought the same one.....Still trying to find out belt size for 3.4...2lb lower and 3.4 and stock lower...Anyone know??? Zack said he never used that exact combo and could only guess...

Well, what's Zack's guess?

[guspech750]

Why not just wrap a tailors tape measure or string around the pulleys while some positions the tensioner in the middle of its swing? You should be able to get a good measure then.


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

Why not just wrap a tailors tape measure or string around the pulleys while some positions the tensioner in the middle of its swing? You should be able to get a good measure then.


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Was gonna be my follow up question, best way to get the correct info.

Alternative would be to calculate the dimension using C/L distance between pulleys and the radii of the upper and lower pulleys.

[bugsyc]

Well, what's Zack's guess?
Zack's guess which I didn't find helpfull was 514 or 525..

[SC Cheesehead]

Zack's guess which I didn't find helpfull was 514 or 525..

Is 514 or 525 a dimension, part number, or length? :confused:

Did Zack give any other info?

Did you contact ImpalaSlayer? IIRC, he was running a 2 lb lower, and a smaller upper (smaller than stock anyway), but I can't recall specifically what size it was.

If all else fails, go with Joey's suggestion in post #20.

[tdotcv]

Is 514 or 525 a dimension, part number, or length? :confused:

Did Zack give any other info?

Did you contact ImpalaSlayer? IIRC, he was running a 2 lb lower, and a smaller upper (smaller than stock anyway), but I can't recall specifically what size it was.

If all else fails, go with Joey's suggestion in post #20.

The last 3 numbers 515/525 is how we refer to sizes. For a 3.1 and 2lb lower you need an 8 rib belt ending in part number 525 for the blower. A 3.1 is only a little bit smaller than a 3.4 so maybe a 525 will stretch out a bit.

[burt ragio]

What you guys aint done yet ?
Lets get her done.

[SC Cheesehead]

The last 3 numbers 515/525 is how we refer to sizes. For a 3.1 and 2lb lower you need an 8 rib belt ending in part number 525 for the blower. A 3.1 is only a little bit smaller than a 3.4 so maybe a 525 will stretch out a bit.

Are the 515/525 numbers brand-specific (i.e. NAPA, Gatorback, etc.)?

Just wondering how they're referenced, and if we could put together a matrix cross referencing info for some of the new folks.

Also, does anyone know the C/L distance between the upper and lower pulleys? I could go measure mine, but if somebody already has the info, that would be great.

[tdotcv]

Help me I need a babysitter. I'm a single dad with a 2 year old and a 6 year old. The kids want to go to the park and beach and play all day long. And I work nights, so getting any spare time in the day to work on the car is hard. I even told my cousin to finish it off and I would pay him but he's renovating his house. I hope to get another crack at it this weekend.

The part number is interchangeable. These aren't the part numbers but I'm only using them as an example:GATES K050525, DAYCO 5050525, Napa 4050525, again these are just example numbers. I think 525 is the length in inches, 52 1/2".

[SC Cheesehead]

Help me I need a babysitter. I'm a single dad with a 2 year old and a 6 year old. The kids want to go to the park and beach and play all day long. And I work nights, so getting any spare time in the day to work on the car is hard. I even told my cousin to finish it off and I would pay him but he's renovating his house. I hope to get another crack at it this weekend.

The part number is interchangeable. These aren't the part numbers but I'm only using them as an example:GATES K050525, DAYCO 5050525, Napa 4050525, again these are just example numbers. I think 525 is the length in inches, 52 1/2".


Gotcha! Thanks for the info.

[RacerX]

??? Make the kids hold the bar on the tensioner as you measure.

Stock upper and 6lb lower, I need a 57" belt. K080570, 570K8, 25-080570, 4080570 or 8PK1447. :D

[SC Cheesehead]

??? Make the kids hold the bar on the tensioner as you measure.

Stock upper and 6lb lower, I need a 57" belt. K080570, 570K8, 25-080570, 4080570 or 8PK1447. :D

6 lb lower?!! :eek:

Did you have any clearance issues? I'd heard a 4 lb was a tight fit, how much larger dia. is the 6 lb?

[RacerX]

Plenty of clearance! 9.10" :D This sucks. I already want a tvs...

[bugsyc]

Help me I need a babysitter. I'm a single dad with a 2 year old and a 6 year old. The kids want to go to the park and beach and play all day long. And I work nights, so getting any spare time in the day to work on the car is hard. I even told my cousin to finish it off and I would pay him but he's renovating his house. I hope to get another crack at it this weekend.

The part number is interchangeable. These aren't the part numbers but I'm only using them as an example:GATES K050525, DAYCO 5050525, Napa 4050525, again these are just example numbers. I think 525 is the length in inches, 52 1/2".
That's exactly what I was thinking but,then what size is 514??

[bugsyc]

I'm thinking 53-53 1/4 will do it...What's the concensus opinion on putting in the 410's with the eaton swap???Too much wheel spin??Thoughts,opinions???bugs y....:shake:

[guspech750]

I'm thinking 53-53 1/4 will do it...What's the concensus opinion on putting in the 410's with the eaton swap???Too much wheel spin??Thoughts,opinions???bugs y....:shake:
I am a big fan of my 4.10's and Eaton swap:burnout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2QfpYgudZg&list=FLGZkzB8NfX-rLbru-GqQe8w&index=1&feature=plpp_video


Normal driving rocks
WOT from a slight roll rocks, little wheel spin
WOT from a stop :burnout: but very controlable:burnout:

I would not have it any other way.

[CBT]

I am a big fan of my 4.10's and Eaton swap:burnout:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2QfpYgudZg&list=FLGZkzB8NfX-rLbru-GqQe8w&index=1&feature=plpp_video


Normal driving rocks
WOT from a slight roll rocks, little wheel spin
WOT from a stop :burnout: but very controlable:burnout:

I would not have it any other way.


You commented on your own video, nice!

Oh Yeaaaaaaaaaah!!
DTR FTMFW!!
:-)
guspech (http://www.youtube.com/user/guspech) 3 weeks ago

[guspech750]

You commented on your own video, nice!

Oh Yeaaaaaaaaaah!!
DTR FTMFW!!
:-)
guspech (http://www.youtube.com/user/guspech) 3 weeks ago

I don't need the approval of others.

I rock and I know it. :)


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[SC Cheesehead]

That's exactly what I was thinking but,then what size is 514??


Based on the number coding, I'd say 51.4"


I'm thinking 53-53 1/4 will do it...What's the concensus opinion on putting in the 410's with the eaton swap???Too much wheel spin??Thoughts,opinions???bugs y....:shake:

I've got 'em and love 'em. Wheel spin? 400+ rwhp is gonna spin 3.55s if you stick your foot into it. FWIW, justbob went to 4.30s on his Triolgy and said they REALLY woke the car up.

[tdotcv]

What you guys aint done yet ?
Lets get her done.

I have so little time, it's frustrating. But I tried to install the boost gauge.

I removed the cigarette litter, because I don't even smoke and I like the look of 3 gauges. I give credit to guys who installed 3 gauges and made it look so clean. Mine looked like crap, the edges weren't smooth at all, so I installed spline around the edges. It looked like crap and cheap. So I bought a cheap $5 gauge and used the chrome cover to cover up the hole. Came out ok but way better than how it looked with just the spline wrapped around the hole I cut.

Then I ran the hose from the boost gauge through the rubber thing next to the gas pedal and out through the engine. BTW, the Trilogy has the hose connected to the blower, pg 79 of the manual, so simple. I know we need to make a T, but what lines can we connect it to?

I know it's nothing complicated and anyone can do it but I need some guidance.

On the boost gauge, I installed a coupling, a pipe, a Tee, another pipe, and then the 3 brass pieces ( I don't know what it's called) and connected it to the clear hose. Is that how it should be done?

The Trilogy manual says to connect the "S" wire, the black and red cable I'm holding, from the BAP on the back fitting of the boost gauge. In other words, does that mean we have to connect the red and black wires to the plug (nuetral/hot)?

I should be getting Zack's COT delivered by Monday.

[tdotcv]

I finally mounted the heat exchanger. It was stressful because it was hard finding brackets that worked. I used two L-brackets, a long one and a shorter one. I haven't done the plumbing yet.

I installed the COT I got from Zack today too. I used an aftermarket
O-ring for the COT and when I installed it, it ripped. I got a Ford one and will hook it up tomorrow. Use Ford O-rings, there only 4 bucks!

I had trouble installing the COT. The blower wasn't sitting firmly on the lower intake, there was about 1 cm of clearance. The problem was the COT was resting against a bolt, causing the blower to lift up. I just chopped a piece of the bolt off. I'm getting closer!

Speaking of all this muscle, I went to The Toronto Pro Bodybuilding Show last week. Meet some pro's. Installed the phantom grille on the 300, and dubs today too on the other car.

[03sport007]

Looking good!!! Keep the pics coming.

[guspech750]

Cool beans man.

Are you having fun with the Eaton swap? Hope so. I know I sure did.

P.S. With their arms so big. How do they wipe before flushing? :lol:


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[tdotcv]

Cool beans man.

Are you having fun with the Eaton swap? Hope so. I know I sure did.

P.S. With their arms so big. How do they wipe before flushing? :lol:


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

Oh ya, it's fun. I wonder what I'm going to do when I'm finished? I guess drive it lol.

I don't know how they wipe, I don't even want to know lol.

[tdotcv]

I installed brackets at the bottom of the heat exchanger, to make it more firm. I took pics of the brackets and bolts I used just incase someone wanted to do it like I did.

About 3" above the black bar there's about an inch of space. That's where I managed to bolt it together. It's not perfect but it's very firm.

I noticed that the o-rings were peeling after I bolted the COT down. I think they were the wrong ones, because they were a little bit thicker or maybe just too cheap. I hooked up the right ones and no problem.

I forgot to install that sensor thing behind the alternator so I did that today. Then I ate lots of chicken.

[Black&Gifted]

Looks good (the grilled chicken, I mean)! And the eaton swap progress looks good also!

There are multiple ways to mount the heat exchanger...Yours is a good idea also!

[guspech750]

Oh my. The grilled chicken looks delicious.


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[03sport007]

Dam!!! Now I'm Starving!!!!!

[justbob]

Can I suggest corn as well? They go great together grilled.

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[justbob]

Oh yeah, the Eaton swap... Looks good, but your inlet is on the WRONG side! :)

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[tdotcv]

Are you talking about the heat exchanger? I just did it like I saw it here: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051

I thought about reversing it, maybe it would make the plumbing a bit easier, like guspech750: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80233

[Black&Gifted]

Are you talking about the heat exchanger? I just did it like I saw it here: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051

I thought about reversing it, maybe it would make the plumbing a bit easier, like guspech750: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80233

yup, the heat exchanger. after I got mine mounted the way you did (and according to the same thread), I realized all the plumbing is on the right side of the car and the inlet/outlet of the heat exchanger is on the left side. Thus, mounting it the way I (and you) did will add about 2 feet of extra plumbing and some unnecessary kinks. I am likely going to flip mine around like guspech750.

[tdotcv]

yup, the heat exchanger. after I got mine mounted the way you did (and according to the same thread), I realized all the plumbing is on the right side of the car and the inlet/outlet of the heat exchanger is on the left side. Thus, mounting it the way I (and you) did will add about 2 feet of extra plumbing and some unnecessary kinks. I am likely going to flip mine around like guspech750.

We don't want kinks, so let's flip it.

[justbob]

Are you talking about the heat exchanger? I just did it like I saw it here: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=67051

I thought about reversing it, maybe it would make the plumbing a bit easier, like guspech750: http://mercurymarauder.net/forums/showthread.php?t=80233

No, I was reffering to your blower inlet! LOL It looks nothing like my Trilogy. :)

Seriously though. GuspechJoes way is the flat out easiest way.



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[tdotcv]

Today an aftermarket battery tray went in. It had to be fab a bit, in order to place bolts and hold it down. The IAT and the harness went on the lower intake also.

Deleted, is the washer fluid tank. For now, spending $130 for a new battery just to keep the washer tank doesn't make sense. I'm thinking about making a smaller fluid tank somehow, but that is on hold for a while.

There is a plastic white piece that used to go above the driver's side head light, it says, "MARAUDER" on it. Since the battery is placed on the driver's side now, I placed that piece below the battery tray. Is that a good idea? What is it used for anyways. I took a pic of it. It looks like there were two rubber hoses attached to it but it only has one on it now. I don't remember if I took the other piece off.

[MOTOWN]

The white box is the muffler for your air lift compressor

[tdotcv]

The white box is the muffler for your air lift compressor

I guess that's why it only had one hose hooked up and the other outlet was open. Thanks for clearing that up.

[tdotcv]

I changed the brackets that held the heat exchanger. The simplest and firmest way I that I could think of was to make an L-bracket and bolt it down to the bumper.

I went to a plumbing store and asked them for fittings for the heat exchanger, this is what they gave me.

The 3rd pic is bolts from the bosch pump that I mounted onto the bumper. Two bolts and it's firm. I used a piece left over from the swap, I really don't even remember what that piece is for. I think it was from the fuse box, used to hold it down. Black&Gifted hooked me up with a bracket for the pump. I saw his pic of how he installed it but after about 1 hour of trying to out how he did it I just used the piece that I found. I can pass on the brakcet he made to anyone just pay $10 shipping. I'm not trying to make money just trying to help someone who needs it, I just couldn't figure out how he did it.

I had a JLT intake but it sat so high the hood wouldn't close. I trade it to someone on SVT for a C&L. That one fits right.

[tdotcv]

The drive belt got installed. Took me a minute to figure out that the alternator bracket had to removed, not totally but just the left side to get the belt inside. I removed the tensioner also and finally hooked it on by using a screw driver to hook it over a pulley. I'm having trouble installing the belt on the blower, any tips would be appreciated.

I installed the coolant tank, thanks to Yusuf again for the brackets! The fuse box install was a bit of a pain. I made a bracket but it was very noticable and didn't look clean. So I took the box that holds the unit and drilled to holes in it and made another brakcet and drilled one small hole on the front frame. It holds down really strong and firm and looks very clean.

[cj7chris]

For the SC belt, use the longest handled ratchet that you have for the most leverage. You can slip a pipe over the end of your ratchet if you don't have a long one, or buy a breaker bar.

Longer handle = more leverage = easier to slip belt on the pulley

[SC Cheesehead]

For the SC belt, use the longest handled ratchet that you have for the most leverage. You can slip a pipe over the end of your ratchet if you don't have a long one, or buy a breaker bar.

Longer handle = more leverage = easier to slip belt on the pulley

True, that.

I found out the hard way; a 6" rachet wrench don't cut it... ;)

[RacerX]

I carry spare belts and tools/breaker bar. Shredding a belt miles away from home and not having tools or spare sux. Luckily, even if the boost belt goes, you can still drive. NA of course!

[SC Cheesehead]

I carry spare belts and tools/breaker bar. Shredding a belt miles away from home and not having tools or spare sux. Luckily, even if the boost belt goes, you can still drive. NA of course!

Yup, but if the blower locks up, and you don't have a breaker bar and you're miles from nowhere, you're stuck; and that REALLY suxs (ask me how I know...;))

[justbob]

Looking at the blower belt pic, it is on the wrong side of the tensioner. I usually wrap it around the lower, then around the tensioner, apply pressure, then slip it onto the snout.

If this is what you are doing, then perhaps the belt is too short.

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

[guspech750]

Looking at the blower belt pic, it is on the wrong side of the tensioner. I usually wrap it around the lower, then around the tensioner, apply pressure, then slip it onto the snout.

If this is what you are doing, then perhaps the belt is too short.

Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.

Yes. Same here.


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[tdotcv]

I will try to install the belt again. BTW, I live like 15mins from Steeda so I called them to set up an appointment for a dyno tune in 2 weeks. They said its 500 bucks. I said but I have a tuner. They said 500 is the rate. Is that price reasonable.

[Spectragod]

I will try to install the belt again. BTW, I live like 15mins from Steeda so I called them to set up an appointment for a dyno tune in 2 weeks. They said its 500 bucks. I said but I have a tuner. They said 500 is the rate. Is that price reasonable.

Seems like the going price....

[guspech750]

I will try to install the belt again. BTW, I live like 15mins from Steeda so I called them to set up an appointment for a dyno tune in 2 weeks. They said its 500 bucks. I said but I have a tuner. They said 500 is the rate. Is that price reasonable.

I think I paid $400-$450 for my dyno tune. I already had an XCal.

Seems reasonable to me.

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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[tdotcv]

Ok thanks guys. I can't wait to get this done. I will call them back again and ask if anyone cancels to let me in. BTW, I think I have the COT sensors in the right spots. It's a 50/50 chance so I guess I will see.

[guspech750]

Ok thanks guys. I can't wait to get this done. I will call them back again and ask if anyone cancels to let me in. BTW, I think I have the COT sensors in the right spots. It's a 50/50 chance so I guess I will see.

Judging from your COT pictures. They did look correct to me.


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Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[cj7chris]

If its dyno tuning, not a dyno run, that's reasonable. You should plan on the car being at the shop for several hours. If they do it well, its more than a few WOT runs, they should tune for idle, mid-range, and WOT. My local tuner suggests being prepared to wait 4 to 6 hours while they sort out the car. It should be more than just setting it up and doing a few rips.


Ditto on the belt approach: lower, tensioner, then slip over the blower pulley. You want some leverage, so get a pipe or a breaker bar, it'll slip on.

[SC Cheesehead]

If its dyno tuning, not a dyno run, that's reasonable. You should plan on the car being at the shop for several hours. If they do it well, its more than a few WOT runs, they should tune for idle, mid-range, and WOT. My local tuner suggests being prepared to wait 4 to 6 hours while they sort out the car. It should be more than just setting it up and doing a few rips.


Ditto on the belt approach: lower, tensioner, then slip over the blower pulley. You want some leverage, so get a pipe or a breaker bar, it'll slip on.

^^^^^ Yup, yup, and yup.

[burt ragio]

Any guess on horse power & torque numbers. I guess 365,370.

[03sport007]

My tuner insisted on keeping my car overnight. Don't forget to talk to them about your shift schedule. Good luck!!!

[tdotcv]

I will probably keep my car overnight because I work afternoons. But 365HP only?! I thought eaton swaps make around 420HP.

[SC Cheesehead]

I will probably keep my car overnight because I work afternoons. But 365HP only?! I thought eaton swaps make around 420HP.


Yeah, I'd say low 400's at least. What pulley combination are you running again?

[tdotcv]

3.1 and a 2lb lower, how do you avoid scratching the pulley when slipping on the belt with a bar or tool?

[SC Cheesehead]

3.1 and a 2lb lower, how do you avoid scratching the pulley when slipping on the belt with a bar or tool?

You're gonna make some boost with that combination (prolly somewhere between 13.5 - 14.5 lbs); I'll guess you dyno around 435 hp/425 trq.

My belt goes on/comes off fairly easy if I use a 24" breaker bar on the tensioner, nothing more than hand pressure to loop the belt over the pulleys with the tension relaxed. What belt length are you running?

[guspech750]

3.1 and a 2lb lower, how do you avoid scratching the pulley when slipping on the belt with a bar or tool?

Just go buy one of those long handled belt tension tools. To hell with a socket wrench and cheater bar.

My belt is super tight. But with the long handled belt tool and lots of will power from my fingers and hands. It goes on.


Sent from my iPhone
Eaton Swap + 4.10's = Wreeeeeeeeeedom!!

[burt ragio]

My numbers are way off. SC Cheeze is more on the money with the numbers.

[tdotcv]

The install is finally complete, unfortunately the engine knocks. I think I might have dropped something inside one of the ports when I removed the intake to install the blower.

I was tempted today, I was thinking of selling the entire car as is but I thought about it for a moment and I decided that I came too far, and I have to finish it. My plans now are to a drop in a cobra motor with the supercharger already installed and just do an engine swap. I might sell the motor to someone who wants to rebuild one. The supercharger works fine and I will probably sell the supercharger kit seperately.

I took some pics today, it looks so nice but that's really meaningless since I can't drive it.

[MOTOWN]

The install is finally complete, unfortunately the engine knocks. I think I might have dropped something inside one of the ports when I removed the intake to install the blower.

I was tempted today, I was thinking of selling the entire car as is but I thought about it for a moment and I decided that I came too far, and I have to finish it. My plans now are to a drop in a cobra motor with the supercharger already installed and just do an engine swap. I might sell the motor to someone who wants to rebuild one. The supercharger works fine and I will probably sell the supercharger kit seperately.

I took some pics today, it looks so nice but that's really meaningless since I can't drive it.

Sorry to hear about the knock, how bad is it:confused:

[guspech750]

What a bummer.

Don't give up man.

You would be kicking yourself later.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[tdotcv]

Sorry to hear about the knock, how bad is it:confused:

It sounds bad. If the heads are in good shape I might sell those.

[MOTOWN]

It sounds bad. If the heads are in good shape I might sell those.

There are a few cobra motors for sale over on SVTperformance:coolman:

[tdotcv]

I picked up the motor today. I removed the back seats of my van and dropped it in. Its going to the shop Monday for the swap. Just wondering a few things. Do I need to use a cobra computer or is the Marauder one fine. And I need a fly wheel for the transmission right.

Also its been ported by Stiegemeir. Does the blower have a serial number so I can call him and find out exactly what's been done to it.

[myrodr]

marauder computer can be tuned for cobra motor. i think you will need 8 bolt flex plate for use with marauder trany

[justbob]

8 bolt 164 tooth. Also, to clear the Cobra alt. you will need to notch the frame. Or simply use your timing cover and seal the one hole that is different in the covers like most do.


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[SC Cheesehead]

marauder computer can be tuned for cobra motor. i think you will need 8 bolt flex plate for use with marauder trany


8 bolt 164 tooth. Also, to clear the Cobra alt. you will need to notch the frame. Or simply use your timing cover and seal the one hole that is different in the covers like most do.


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^^^^^ What they said.

Plus, if you go with a stock Cobra engine swap, you're going to have a motor that makes less power.

Just a suggestion, why not have somebody check out the knock first to determine what it really is?

[breeze]

^^^^^ What they said.

Plus, if you go with a stock Cobra engine swap, you're going to have a motor that makes less power.

Just a suggestion, why not have somebody check out the knock first to determine what it really is?

BUT it'll hold whatever he throws at it instead of limited to 450rwhp

[tdotcv]

I had the car checked out by a highly reputable performance shop in my area. They told me they would have to take everything apart to see what's wrong and then rebuild it and I'm better off buying a motor and parting out the Marauder motor. Anyone who hears it will know its a really bad sound like metal against metal.

I emailed Stiegemeier with the serial number so I'm hoping he will respond soon to tell me what was done to the blower.

[SC Cheesehead]

BUT it'll hold whatever he throws at it instead of limited to 450rwhp

^^^^^ How so? :confused:

[breeze]

^^^^^ How so? :confused:

03 cobra isn't nicknamed "terminator" for nothing. Seen up to 800 with that motor in mustangs.

[Vortech347]

That 03 motor is 10 times what the MM shortblock is.

Better crank, better rods, better pistons....Only downfall is its iron so it'll add a tiny bit of weight. But with these cars who gives a damn, they are already boats.

[tdotcv]

8 bolt 164 tooth. Also, to clear the Cobra alt. you will need to notch the frame. Or simply use your timing cover and seal the one hole that is different in the covers like most do.


Sent from my iPhone 4s using Tapatalk

Thanks for the info. It was helpful today when I had to order a fly wheel. I think the frame will get notched much easier I think.

[justbob]

Thanks for the info. It was helpful today when I had to order a fly wheel. I think the frame will get notched much easier I think.

I hope you meant flexplate. 😊


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[tdotcv]

I hope you meant flexplate. ��


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Ya that's what I meant. BTW I phone Stiegemeir and asked what was done to the blower. They told me it was rebuilt, it's a stage 4 and it should produce around 50 more HP. I don't think it will make that much more maybe 15-20 more that's what I've always thought. I paid $300 to get my blower powder coated so I think I want to keep that one. But if I get 50 more HP I might keep that one. I guess the only way to find out is to test both of them but that cost $$$ and takes time. Maybe someone took the test already and can give me the answer. Or maybe I will just paint it myself. I've seen some that look really nice.

[Vortech347]

Stage 4's do infact get around 40-50rwhp more than a stock eaton.

[SC Cheesehead]

That 03 motor is 10 times what the MM shortblock is.

Better crank, better rods, better pistons....Only downfall is its iron so it'll add a tiny bit of weight. But with these cars who gives a damn, they are already boats.

OEM to OEM, agreed, but an aluminum mod motor with aftremarket rods and pistons can make some serious HP an not go boom.

[03sport007]

[QUOTE=tdotcv;1262730]Thanks for the info. It was helpful today when I had to order a fly wheel. I think the frame will get notched much easier I think.

Why are you talking about notching the frame? Don't you already have the brackets to relocate the alt?

[guspech750]

To hell with notching the frame.
Get the brackets. Simplifies everything.
Or, have fun changing your alternator down by the frame one day when it goes bad.

That would suck.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[Vortech347]

To hell with notching the frame.
Get the brackets. Simplifies everything.
Or, have fun changing your alternator down by the frame one day when it goes bad.

That would suck.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

Agreed. And if you don't under drive it correctly it will go out even faster.

[SC Cheesehead]

[QUOTE=tdotcv;1262730]Thanks for the info. It was helpful today when I had to order a fly wheel. I think the frame will get notched much easier I think.

Why are you talking about notching the frame? Don't you already have the brackets to relocate the alt?

If you go with a Cobra motor, you'll need to swap out the front cover with one from a Marauder as well as go with the grtsch brackets.

[tdotcv]

I have the alt brackets so can I keep the cobra timing cover and use the alt bracket or do I have to swap covers.

[SC Cheesehead]

I have the alt brackets so can I keep the cobra timing cover and use the alt bracket or do I have to swap covers.


Cobra cover = no brackets required, but need to notch frame. AFAIK, can't use the grtch brackets on a Cobra cover.

Marauder cover = alternator and belt tensioner brackets required.

[tdotcv]

The shop removed the motor and trans and swapped timing covers for me. We decided to swap covers. Trying to keep the plumbing the same and change nothing. I think notching the frame will weaken the frame and the Marauder cover is so much easier to access everything.

The motor will get dropped in tomorrow. I'm going to paint the blower myself. Using high temp engine paint and use the Marauder black valve covers and paint the blower myself today. I like it blacked out.

[stevesoasis]

What shop is doing the work for you?

[tdotcv]

DaSilva Racing in Pickering. They don't waste time and work very fast.

[CBT]

DaSilva Racing in Pickering. They don't waste time and work very fast.

Cool, man. Can't wait to see it finished. Any pics for now?

[stevesoasis]

Cool, Joe Dasilva is a good guy. I had 4.10's and sct dyno tune done there last summer. plan on getting my headers and res delete tips installed there soon!!! Cant wait to see pics of your MM all done :beer:

[tdotcv]

Cool, man. Can't wait to see it finished. Any pics for now?

I only took one pic at the shop. Tomorrow I will take some more.

[CBT]

I only took one pic at the shop. Tomorrow I will take some more.

No turning back now! :beer:

[breeze]

"Wow, whata hole"!

[Baconbit]

"Wow, whata hole"!



That's what HE said!:banana2:

[tdotcv]

Cool, Joe Dasilva is a good guy. I had 4.10's and sct dyno tune done there last summer. plan on getting my headers and res delete tips installed there soon!!! Cant wait to see pics of your MM all done :beer:

Joe told me he worked on a Marauder it must have been you he was talking about. Better make an appointment with him soon, his shop is always busy.

BTW for anyone thinking of painting their blower its amazingly easy. I think I paid around $200 to get it powder coated and today I bought two cans of high temperature engine paint for $20 and it looks exactly the same. I sanded it down for a little while then painted it in the van with the heat blasted and parked inside my garage, don't judge me.

[justbob]

Mines high heat rattle can. So's my cam covers. Plenty strong.
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/06/e9urysyn.jpg


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[tdotcv]

That looks so nice I'm jealous and I wish I never saw that because now I'm second guessing my colors

[CBT]

I sanded it down for a little while then painted it in the van with the heat blasted and parked inside my garage, don't judge me.

LMAO! We've never met, but I think we would get along great!

[tdotcv]

I used the van as my paint booth. I just wish I painted the valve covers while the motor was out. Oh well maybe later down the road.

The shop dropped the motor in and are starting to hook everything back up again.

[Curless]

The pic with the hammer is priceless!!!!!!!

[tdotcv]

I wish I used the hammer to hit my head for not painting the covers. I even removed them from the Marauder to put them on the new engine to have it blacked out. Can't stop thinking about it. Its too late now.

It was used to hammer the COT because the blower wasn't clearing. But if you see a picture of a hammer you know things probably didn't go as smooth as you hoped.

[breeze]

Covers are easy to take if u know the short cut. Should have thrown some headers on thats the real pita

[tdotcv]

Covers are easy to take if u know the short cut. Should have thrown some headers on thats the real pita

Don't make me beg for the short cut. The shop told me the same that I should have done the exhaust system while the motor was out and done it all at once since the car is already there.

[tdotcv]

The shop phoned me today and told me the belt keeps slipping off the tensioner. Has any one had this issue before. How was it fixed.

[guspech750]

The shop phoned me today and told me the belt keeps slipping off the tensioner. Has any one had this issue before. How was it fixed.

Mine never has.

I'm guessing you are referring to the S/C belt.

Perhaps your tensioner bracket is off a little and needs to be shimmed?

I thought I recall some peeps having problems with their brackets and needing to be shimmed. But I thought that was quite some time ago and was resolved.


Sent from my iPhone 4S

DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[tdotcv]

Ya probably going to shim it. BTW my stupid computer fried. Can we use an 03 crown Vic computer much easier to find then a Marauder one.

[breeze]

Don't make me beg for the short cut. The shop told me the same that I should have done the exhaust system while the motor was out and done it all at once since the car is already there.

Click Reviews at top of page...then drivetrain...engine...cam cover install. There u have it

[tdotcv]

We decided to keep the Marauder timing cover and not cut and weld the frame. Stupid alternator on the cobra motor is a pita. The Marauder motor was taken apart. The heads are good and so is the block but one of the pistons had a bolt nailed into it. I guess it feel into the port during the swap. Make sure you immediately cover all ports when removing the intake immediately. Don't wait to do it.

[justbob]

Don't you have a 10MM socket? Back it out and silicone it, put it back?

J/K that ROYALLY SUCKS!


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[MOTOWN]

We decided to keep the Marauder timing cover and not cut and weld the frame. Stupid alternator on the cobra motor is a pita. The Marauder motor was taken apart. The heads are good and so is the block but one of the pistons had a bolt nailed into it. I guess it feel into the port during the swap. Make sure you immediately cover all ports when removing the intake immediately. Don't wait to do it.

Looks like someone did the "Boost -a-compression" mod!:depress:

[CBT]

Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaamn! :eek:

[guspech750]

We decided to keep the Marauder timing cover and not cut and weld the frame. Stupid alternator on the cobra motor is a pita. The Marauder motor was taken apart. The heads are good and so is the block but one of the pistons had a bolt nailed into it. I guess it feel into the port during the swap. Make sure you immediately cover all ports when removing the intake immediately. Don't wait to do it.

Wow!

That blows man. :(


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DTR + 4.10's + Eaton swap = Wreeeeeeeeeeeeeeedom

[tdotcv]

The swap is complete but the car has been running lean (too much air and not enough fuel). We have been trying to figure out what it could be. We changed injectors, the CPU, etc. But we still can't figure out what it is. Any one experience thus during the swap.

[RacerX]

Vacuum leak? PCV valve routing good? Do you have the line under the blower working or capped?

[Baaad GN]

Bolt fell into intake? Wow expensive mistake, but it sounded like you had a VERY GOOD idea thats what it was! If you read any of the build's you had to notice the intaked always cover for just that reason! Good luck on getting it straightened out!